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I use the "regular" treat bag from Black Dog and love it - originally had the mini treat bag, but eventually found it a bit small for my big clumsy hands. Also, the regular sized one has a spring that will stay open, where the mini one does not.

I have/had a dog that wasn't too motivated by food, but she now sees/knows that treats are a good thing. Reading the book "How Dogs Learn" last night makes me think that I had to teach her that treats were good, ie, make them a conditioned reinforcer. I'd be interested to hear other peoples thoughts on this.

Treats that I use vary from liver treats (low value for low distraction/easy training) to cooked chicken sausage (high value for high distraction/difficult training). Just remember to keep the treat size small because apparently dogs are more interested in the number rather than the size of treats. Also take into consideration the number/types of treats you use and consider adjusting the meals accordingly.

Hi, I am interested in finding out a bit more about assistance dogs for disabled and I noticed the link on your posts.

Our sweet Canda has recently passed the VCA test for therapy dog. Hopefully this year will be a chance to start visits. she has also passed a similar test for the school responsible dog ownership program. I still have to do a brief training program for that some time this year. Canda is a border collie x kelpie. My husband, Ian, is in a wheel chair and I would like to teach Canda a few tricks to be helpful to him. Do you know if there is a test that she can do to qualify her as his assistance dog. He would like to be able to take her with him when he goes out some times but unless she has some form of official qualification she is not welcome in many places.

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Hi, I am interested in finding out a bit more about assistance dogs for disabled and I noticed the link on your posts.

Our sweet Canda has recently passed the VCA test for therapy dog. Hopefully this year will be a chance to start visits. she has also passed a similar test for the school responsible dog ownership program. I still have to do a brief training program for that some time this year. Canda is a border collie x kelpie. My husband, Ian, is in a wheel chair and I would like to teach Canda a few tricks to be helpful to him. Do you know if there is a test that she can do to qualify her as his assistance dog. He would like to be able to take her with him when he goes out some times but unless she has some form of official qualification she is not welcome in many places.

I don't know how much I can help you, but I can share that I know.

I know that Assistance Dogs Australia will only "accredit" for the public service licence, dogs that have been selected, raised and trained by them. They do this so that they know the exact background (ie., temperament of the dog and it's parents and grandparents) and experiences (and can control these) of all dogs that receive their public service licence. They do not train other people's dogs or help people train their own dogs.

I believe that the ASDOGS (NQ) Inc may train other people's dogs towards receiving a public access licence. In searching for their website, I also came across Craig Murray, but I do not know anything about them.

I'm sorry if I have been less than helpful, but I hope that you can find someone to help you. My only other suggestion may be to contact the NDTF (www.ndtf.net.au) as they have a module of "training dogs for assistance roles", which may help you in teaching the skills to your dog, but may not help with the public access licence.

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Just a question, for difficult training, and high distractions, do you find that the smell of the food matters a lot?

One of my dogs (Solly) isn't very motivated by really anything when he is doing plain heelwork. He loves doggy dancing and agility, and other difficult and high energy training, but when it comes to your basic heelwork, such as for competetive oedience, I just can't get him to look up to me and pay full attention to me. Anyone else have this problem?

Another question - Those of you who use liver, is it strong smelling, and do you boil it or fry it?

=]

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Hi Kelpie-i... hope this comes out okay and I answer okay! You asked: >>>Hi Ayra, how do you go about teaching a complex skill which is made up of of many components with a ball as reward - do you use it as a lure as well as a reward? Do you use the ball as your dog's reward for everything he does? Just interested in your responses.

It has always been my belief and teaching that the dog should choose his reward, not the human >>>

I initially chose the 'wrong' reward for my particular dog in food and agree with you that the dog needs to choose the reward that pushes his/her buttons the most. I have gradually swapped from food to a ball but still retain food so that I can reward if demonstrating something to a class or I am somewhere I can't chuck a ball. It's just that to my dog, the value of the reward is lesser when it's food. Show my girl food in one hand and a ball in the other and she will go for the ball every time, not the food. That is the way she is LOL.

In saying this, I will also still use food depending on what I am teaching her, as my girl is still learning to control herself and focus completely when in prey drive. If I am teaching her a trick indoors that requires her not to knock stuff over and jump up and down (such as switching a lamp on) I will use food. Then at the end I will go outside for a toss of the ball. Unlike traditional thinking, I don't just keep the ball for a reward and will play lots of recall games to help build her drive and bond with me.

My aim is to ditch food for 99percent and use the ball only. To teach a complex skill with many components required lots of practice. I can and do use the ball now, throwing for short distances so the dog doesn't tire, instead of giving a piece of food. I use a secondary reinforcer word and then the primary reinforcer after a bridging period of a few seconds (am building on this), the ball. I don't lure her with it any more than I would using food. She works for her reward in the same way as food. Basically, use the same as food really. I reward with a ball in training. I reward with my voice around the house for small things and food if we're out somewhere I can't use a ball. I have worked out that for my dog, the value of rewards goes in this order:

1st = ball

2nd = food

3rd = a pat from me and good words

To some this may seem bad. But my dog is not pack driven at all. She is a bit like a some Mals in that respect, I think.

I learnt a big lesson in this. Each dog has to have the reinforcers that works best for them. And every dog is different, it seems.

Hope this answers your questions. Do you think I am missing something in my training method? I am ALWAYS open to suggestions :rofl::):eek:

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Just a question, for difficult training, and high distractions, do you find that the smell of the food matters a lot?

One of my dogs (Solly) isn't very motivated by really anything when he is doing plain heelwork. He loves doggy dancing and agility, and other difficult and high energy training, but when it comes to your basic heelwork, such as for competetive oedience, I just can't get him to look up to me and pay full attention to me. Anyone else have this problem?

Another question - Those of you who use liver, is it strong smelling, and do you boil it or fry it?

=]

Pink Panther, I know someone who microwaves liver until it is extremely well cooked and his dog loves it best this way. It does smell a bit and his wife complains about the pong when it's cooking though!

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One of my dogs (Solly) isn't very motivated by really anything when he is doing plain heelwork. He loves doggy dancing and agility, and other difficult and high energy training, but when it comes to your basic heelwork, such as for competetive oedience, I just can't get him to look up to me and pay full attention to me. Anyone else have this problem?

Another question - Those of you who use liver, is it strong smelling, and do you boil it or fry it?

=]

Im not expect let that be said first :rofl:

Sway wouldn't make eye contact with me, wouldn't look abover waist height.

I was told to do the following

Hold the bait near my face so she looked for it. Then click and treat, slowly my hand went around behind my back, (over several click and treats)

so she never knew where it was coming from.

She would look again, click and treat and hold it a little longer as time goes on.

Now she looks for her next command so to speak.

ETA

Just a question, for difficult training, and high distractions, do you find that the smell of the food matters a lot?

I have tried heeps of different foods/treats/bait for Sway, no real interest. Or if she did would last that day, and would change her mind the next.

If i could bottle up the cuddles and kisses she would be happy. She works for them the best.

Im trying out no treats, but still keep the bait bag as she looks towards it at times, and placing my hand own the bag and coming out with my own hand :) and giving her an ear ruffle :D She likes it :eek:

So the treat is there it's just me

Edited by SwaY
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