BittyMooPeeb Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 I thought I'd start a thread for all those general bits of information that are good to have handy (like which spot-ons cover which parasites, the recipe for 'Satin balls', what to do when your dog is stung by a bee, symptoms of tick paralysis, etc etc) - prompted by me always hunting for this info Going to see if Troy will make it a sticky First topic is ..... drumroll .... Frontline V Advantix V Advantage V Advocate This is a run down of what each one (spot on treatments) covers: DOGS Frontline Plus - fleas and ticks Advantix - fleas, ticks and mosquitos Advocate- fleas, heartworm, hookworm, roundworm and whipworm, lice and ear mites Revolution - fleas, heartworm, ear mites, hookworm, sarcoptic mange Advantage - fleas CATS Advocate - heartworm, fleas, ear mites, hookworm, roundworm, whipworm, lice. Revolution - heartworm, fleas, ear mites, hookworm, roundworm. Frontline Plus - fleas, lice. Advantage - fleas, lice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BittyMooPeeb Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 Satin Balls Recipe's (for putting weight on dogs) From Norskgra: 500g ground beef (one with plenty of fat in it) 250g pkg cream cheese 1 jar all natural peanut butter 1 jar (smaller of the sizes) wheat germ 1 doz egg yolks 1 cup or so of flaked oats soaked in heavy cream Mix up, form balls, freeze, feed as treats or food supplement. from Cala 5kg Cheap hamburger meat {high fat content} Lg box of Sustain Cereal Lg box of uncooked oatmeal 1 jar of Wheat Germ 1 1/4 cup of veg oil 1 1/4 cup of unflavored molasses 10 eggs 10 pks of unflavored gelatin Garlic to Taste 1 cup of flaxseed...ground up. 2 scoops of Source/Kelp Take all dry ingredients and place in a bowl. I crunch up the Sustainl while still in the box, and then pour all the other dry ingredients over it In a another large bowl put the hamburger meat and the wet ingredients. Mix each bowl well, then half each so that it is easier to mix. Mix just like you would a meatloaf I then take it raw, and place in freezer bags and put in the freezer, thaw out a bag as needed. feed raw. I use this not only as a quick weight gain, but as a everyday supplement for my dogs this recipe has been tested and analyzed by several universities and was found to be a total canine diet a dog could live on this without added kibble or any other supplements...this was before I added the Garlic and the Flaxseed and Kelp I have long hair black dogs, and this recipe really keeps their coat black/soft/long since I have...the past 6 months I have had no vet bills...and my dogs coats are wonderful, you need to watch how much you feed it will put weight on a slim dog in a matter of a few days. It will also make an easy keeper fat in just a short period of time. Try it, your dogs will love it!!! One other thing, I have just started to add Kelp to it also, just for the added Iodine, may be good for those dogs that have a lower normal thyroid function. You can make this recipe in what ever amount you need/want by just halving the recipe down to what you want. from WithEverythingIAm 5kg hamburger mince or Chicken Pet Mince 1 box of Sustain or Just Right-Just Grains 500g Oatmeal #1 cup of Wheat Germ 1 1/4 cup vegetable oil #1 1/4 cup of Un-flavored Molasses 10 raw eggs + eggshells 100g of Un-flavored Gelatine #1 cup of flax seed* 6tsp Powdered Kelp* 3tsp Crushed Garlic* 3tsp Apple Cidar Vinegar* Add all dry foods together - mix. in another Larger bowl (I bought a HUGE Bucket/Basket thing from The Warehouse - $8), mix all wet foods together including crushed up eggshells. Add Dry foods into the wet container (this is where it gets messy), and mix with fingers. Make into balls, and devide into bags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BittyMooPeeb Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 101 Uses for Apple Cider Vinegar Thread is here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BittyMooPeeb Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 Keep adding everyone ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgan Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Beestings Keep homoeopathic "Apis" 30x in your first aid kit, put a few drops on the gums (or pillules on the tongue) several times over an hour or so - for people or dogs. Works wonders! If the beesting is in the mouth or on the tongue, give this remedy on the way to the vet in case of swelling blocking the airway. (PS - I'm allergic to bees, and this stuff saves me the trip to the doc for antihistamines) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BittyMooPeeb Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 Slippery Elm 'recipes': To give internally, mix about 1/4 teaspoon of Slippery Elm bark powder with cold water for every 10 pounds (4.5kg) of body weight. For very small dogs, it is fine to use the same 1/4 teaspoon dose. The bulk powder may be very fluffy, so pack it down as much as possible to measure it. Author Anitra Frazier gives the following recipe for Slippery Elm Bark syrup in her book, The New Natural Cat, which applies equally well to our canine companions when adjusted for weight: Into a small saucepan place 1/2 cup cold water and 1 teaspoon powdered slippery elm bark. Whip with a fork. Bring to simmer over low flame, stirring constantly. Simmer 1 or 2 minutes or until slightly thickened. Cool and refrigerate. Keeps 7 or 8 days. Give a teaspoon of syrup (5 cc) for an average-size cat (again, about 10 pounds (4.5kg) ) 5 minutes before a meal to minimize diarrhea, or to soothe and heal mouth ulcers. Juliette de Bairacli Levy 'Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and the Cat', slippery elm - the dose for a puppy is roughly a heaped teaspoon mixed in hottish water, you can add some natural honey to make it more palatable, and cool down. You will need to give at least twice a day for at least 3 days. You may also want to think about adding some finely chopped parsley to the puppy's meals it may help with digestion and soothe the stomach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shmoo Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Alcohol Do not give your dog sips of any alcoholic beverage. Ingestion can lead to injury, disorientation, sickness, urination problems or even coma or death from alcohol poisoning. Some dogs may be attracted to alcoholic drinks so don't leave one setting where a dog can reach it. Apple The seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides which can result in cyanide poisoning. Apricot The seed pit contains cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning. Avocado Avocado contains a toxic element called persin which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. Avocadoes are high in fat content and can trigger an upset stomach, vomiting or even pancreatitis. The seed pit is also toxic and if swallowed can become lodged in the intestinal tract where it may cause a severe blockage which will have to be removed surgically. Since avocado is the main ingredient in guacamole be sure and keep your dog out of the dip. Baby Food Before feeding any baby food to your dog checkk the ingredients to see if it contains onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. Feeding baby food in large amounts may result in nutritional deficiencies. Bones Cooked bones can be very hazardous for your dog. Bones become brittle when cooked which causes them to splinter when broken. The splinters have sharp edges that have been known to become stuck in the teeth, caused choking when caught in the throat or caused a rupture or puncture of the stomach lining or intestinal tract. Especially bad bones are turkey and chicken legs, ham, pork chop and veal. * Symptoms of choking are: - Pale or blue gums - Gasping Open-mouthed breathing - Pawing at face - Slow, shallow breathing - Unconscious, with dilated pupils Raw bones (uncooked in any way) like chicken necks or beef knuckle bones are generally considered safe and help keep your dog's teeth healthy by removing plaque. A caution - bones have a high calcium content and too many can cause severe constipation. Bread Dough When bread dough is ingested your dog's body heat causes the dough to rise in the stomach. During the rising process alcohol is produced as the dough expands. Pets who have eaten bread dough may experience abdominal pain, bloat, vomiting, disorientation and depression. A pet needs to eat only a small amount to cause a problem, because bread dough can rise to many times its size. Broccoli The toxic ingredient in broccoli is isothiocynate. While it may cause stomach upset it probably won't be very harmful unless the amount fed exceeds 10% of the dogs total dailey diet. Caffeine Beverages with caffeine (like soda, tea, coffee) acts as a stimulant and can accelerate your pet's heartbeat to a dangerous level. Pets ingesting caffeine have been known to have seizures, some fatal. Candy Sugarless candy containing xylitol has been recognised by the National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) to be a risk to pets (first published July 2004). This compound can cause liver damage and death in some dogs. This information is recent and some vets may not be familiar with xylitol poisoning. If your dog has eaten sugarless candy you can contact the NAPCC by telephone, 1-888-426-4435 for more information. Cat Food Cat food is not formulated for canine comsumption. It is generally too high in protein and fats and is not a balanced diet for a dog. Cherries The seed pit contains cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning. Chocolate Chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. When affected by an overdose of chocolate, a dog can become excited and hyperactive. Due to the diuretic effect, it may pass large volumes of urine and it will be unusually thirsty. Vomiting and diarrhea are also common. The effect of theobromine on the heart is the most dangerous effect. Theobromine will either increase the dog’s heart rate or may cause the heart to beat irregularly. Death is quite possible, especially with exercise. Symptoms of chocolate poisoning include: vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, hyperactivity, irregular heartbeat and seizures. Larger quantities of chocolate can poison or even kill a medium or large dog. An ounce or two of chocolate may not seem like much but it can be lethal to a small dog that weighs 10 lbs. or less. After their dog has eaten a large quantity of chocolate, many pet owners assume their pet is unaffected. However, the signs of sickness may not be seen for several hours, with death following within twenty-four hours. Cocoa powder and cooking chocolate are the most toxic forms. These forms of chocolate contain ten times more theobromine than milk chocolate. Even licking a substantial part of the chocolate icing from a cake can make a dog sick. The next most dangerous forms are semi-sweet chocolate and dark chocolate, with milk chocolate being the least dangerous. A dog needs to eat more than a 250gm block of milk chocolate, however the high amount of fat found in milk chocolate can lead to an attack of pancreatitis. * 1 ounce per pound of body weight (2 ounces per kg of body weight) for milk chocolate. * 1 ounce per 3 pounds of body weight ( 1 ounce per 1.5 kg body weight) for semi-sweet chocolate * 1 ounce per 9 pounds of body weight ( 1 ounce per 4 kg) for baker's chocolate. During many holidays such as Christmas, New Year's Day, Easter and Halloween, chocolate is often accessible to curious dogs, and in some cases, people unwittingly poison their dogs by offering them chocolate as a treat or letting them lick a frosting bowl. Citrus Oil Extracts Citrus oil extracts ave been known to cause vomiting. Corn Cobs Many dogs have suffered and, in some cases, died after eating corn-on-the-cob, because the corn cob caused a partial or complete intestinal obstruction. Never allow your dog access to corn cobs. Dairy Products Most dairy products are digested poorly by dogs who have little or none of the enzyme required to digest the lactose in milk. Just like lactose-intolerant people, lactose-intolerant dogs can develop excessive intestinal gas (flatulence) and may have foul-smelling diarrhea. It is best to avoid most dairy products altogether, although small amounts of cheese or plain yogurt are tolerated by most dogs, since these products have less lactose than most. Food Preparation Items When chewing food remnants from * aluminum foil or pans * candy wrappers * paper plates and cups * plastic forks, spoons, knives * plastic beverage rings from six-packs * roasting bags * turkey skewers, lacing a dog may swallow pieces which can cause abdominal discomfort, intestinal blockage, internal bleeding and in some cases, death. There is also a possibility if choking or suffocation. Dispose of food preparation items in a manner that your dog or another animal cannot get to it. Eggs (Raw) Raw egg whites contain a protein called avidin, which can deplete your dog of biotin, one of the B vitamins. Biotin is essential to your dog’s growth and coat health. Additionally, raw eggs are often contaminated with bacteria, such as salmonella, and you could end up giving your dog food poisoning in addition to biotin deficiency. Symptoms of biotin depletion are hair loss, weakness, growth retardation and skeleton deformity. If your dog is suffering from these symptoms the situation is urgent, and veterinary treatment is needed. Cooked eggs are high in protein and make an excellent treat. It is only the raw eggs that should not be given to your dog. Grapes or Raisins Although the minimum lethal dosage is not known, grapes and raisins can be toxic to dogs when ingested in large quantities. The symptoms are gastrointestinal signs including vomiting and diarrhea, and then signs of kidney failure with an onset of severe kidney signs starting about 24 hours after ingestion. The amount of grapes eaten varied between 9 oz. and 2 lbs., which worked out to be between 0.41 and 1.1 oz/kg of body weight. It has been reported that two dogs died directly from the toxicity, three were euthanized due to poor response to treatment and five dogs lived. Due to the severity of the signs and the potential for death, the veterinarians at the National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) advocate aggressive treatment for any dog believed to have ingested excessive amounts of grapes or raisins, including inducing vomiting, stomach pumping and administration of activated charcoal, followed by intravenous fluid therapy for at least 48 hours or as indicated based on the results of blood tests for kidney damage. Hops Spent hops as used in making beer. Household Products Liver Many dog treats and prepared foods contain liver so it may surprise you to find liver on the bad foods list. In small amounts liver is good for your dog, but if the liver intake is too high it can cause nutritional problems because liver has a high content of vitamin A. Consumption of this vitamin in large amounts can lead to vitamin A toxicity, or hypervitaminosis A. If your dog eats raw liver or consumes three servings of cooked liver a week it could lead to bone problems. Feeding liver to a dog taking Vitimin A supplements can lead to an overdose of Vitamin A. Symptoms of hypervitaminosis A are deformed bones, excessive bone growth on the elbows and spine, weight loss and anorexia. If left unchecked, hypervitaminosis A has in some cases caused death. Macadamia Nuts The toxic compound is unknown but eating as few as six nuts without the shell has been known to cause elevated body temperature, accelerated heartbeat, tremors in the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs have difficulty or are unable to rise, are distressed and usually panting.Some affected dogs have had swollen limbs and showed pain when the limb was manipulated. Dogs did recover from the muscle weakness and pain and it is not known if there have been any fatal cases. Macadamia butter is included in this warning. Mouldy or Spoiled Foods The common mold found growing on many foods contain toxins such as Penicillium mold toxins or tremorgenic mycotoxins. Symptoms of poisoning include severe tremors and seizures that can last for hours or even days. This is considered an emergency and medical treatment is needed to control the seizures and detoxify the dog. Spoiled foods can cause food poisoning. Symptoms of food poisoning are severe vomiting, diarrhea and shock. Prevention is the best course, don't feed your dog moldy food left in the refrigerator and don't allow him to raid your garbage cans or compost bin (or your neighbor's). Mushrooms Mushroom poisoning can be fatal if certain species of mushrooms are eaten. The most commonly reported severely toxic species of mushroon in the US is Amanita phalloides, but other Amanita species are also toxic. They can cause severe liver disease and neurologic disorders. The recommendation is to induce vomiting when these mushrooms are ingested and to give activated charcoal, as well. Supportive treatment for liver disease may also be necessary. Nutmeg Nutmeg is reported to be a hallucinogenic when ingested in large doses. Nutmeg has been known to cause tremors, seizures and in some cases, death. Nuts Nuts in general are not good for dogs as their high phosphorus content may lead to bladder stones. Onions Onions cause hemolytic anemia, which means that the red blood cells break down leaving the dog short of oxygen. Onion poisoning can occur with a single ingestion of large quantities or with repeated meals containing small amounts of onion. The condition generally improves once the dog is prevented from eating any further onion. The poisoning may occur a few days after the dog has eaten the onion. At first dogs affected by onion poisoning show gastroenteritis with vomiting and diarrhea, weakness and show little or no interest in food. The red pigment from the burst blood cells appears in an affected dog's urine making it dark colored. The dog will experience shortness of breath because the red blood cells that carry oxygen through the body are reduced in number. Other symptoms are elevated body temperature, confusion, and increased heart rate. Seek veterinary care immediately. The quantity of onions, raw or cooked, required is high enough that dogs can generally tolerate small doses of onions without any problem and moderate amounts of onion without apparent signs of onion poisoning. All forms of onion can be a problem including dehydrated onions, raw onions, cooked onions and table scraps containing cooked onions and/or garlic. Left over pizza, Chinese dishes and commercial baby food containing onion, sometimes fed as a supplement to young pets, can cause illness. While garlic also contains the toxic ingredient thiosulphate, it seems that garlic is less toxic and large amounts would need to be eaten to cause illness. Peaches The seed pit contains cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning. Pears The seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning. Plants Dogs can become extremely ill or even die from eating poisonous plants. Keep all unknown types of plants and any plants suspected of being poisonous out of reach of your pet. Plastic Food Wrap Dogs have been known to ingest pieces of plastic wrap while trying to eat food remnants left on its surface. Plastic food wrap can cause choking or intestinal obstruction. Dispose of plastic wrap in a manner that your dog or other animals cannot get to it. Plums The seed pit contains cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning. Play Dough Home made play dough contains high levels of salt. When ingested this can cause salt poisoning which can be fatal. Potatoes Solanum alkaloids can be found in green sprouts and green potato skins, which occurs when the tubers are exposed to sunlight during growth or after harvest. The relatively rare occurrence of actual poisoning is due to several factors: solanine is poorly absorbed; it is mostly hydrolyzed into less toxic solanidinel; and the metabolites are quickly eliminated. Cooked, mashed potatoes are fine for dogs, actually quite nutritious and digestible. Rich Fatty Foods Rich, fatty foods can be very dangerous to dogs susceptible to attacks of pancreatitis. Often you may not know that your dog is susceptible until he is very sick with his first attack. It is often the smaller, more energetic breeds like miniature or toy poodles, cocker spaniels, miniature schauzers, and other small terrier-type dogs who seem particularly prone. However, any dog may have a problem. It is best to avoid these foods altogether. * turkey skin * bacon, sausages, hot dogs * fruit cake, plum pudding * deep-fried Signs of pancreatitis generally include an acute onset of vomiting (sometimes with diarrhea) and abdominal pain, which may be evidenced as a hunched posture or "splinting" of the abdomen when picked up. The dog may become very sick quickly and often needs intensive fluid and antibiotic therapy. Salmon (Raw) Commonly called "Salmon Poisoning Disease" (or SPD), this can be a problem for anyone who feeds their dog a raw meat diet that includes raw salmon, but it is mostly seen in the Pacific Northwest and California. The cause is infection by a rickettsial organism called Neorickettsia helminthoeca. The rickettsial organism does not directly infect the dog but is carried instead by a parasite (a flatworm or fluke) called Nanophyteus salmincola through two intermediate hosts - freshwater snails and salmonid fish. Nanophyteus salmincola are found to infect some species of freshwater snails. The infected snail is ingested by the salmon as part of the food chain. Neither the fluke nor the rickettsial organism are lethal to the fish. The dog is exposed only when it ingests the secondary host - an infected fish. After the dog ingests the fish, the encysted fluke larvae burst and embed in the dog’s intestinal tract and the rickettsia are introduced. The cycle continues when ova are excreted in dog feces to infect more snails. A sudden onset of symptoms occur 5-7 days after ingestion of fish. Initial symptoms include lethargy and anorexia. Peaking of temperature between 104-107 in the first two days and then slowly returns to normal. Persistent vomiting by the fourth day. There is bloody diarrhea within a few days of vomiting onset. The diarrhea is often bright yellow color. There are enlarged lymph nodes. In the acute stages, gastrointestinal symptoms are quite similar to canine parvovirus. Nasal and ocular symptoms can resemble canine distemper. If left untreated, SPD has a mortality rate of up to 90%. SPD can be diagnosed with a fecal sample and is treatable if caught in time. Treatment may include supportive hydration, an antibiotic to kill the rickettsial organism, and a "wormer" to kill the parasite. Improvement may be seen in as little as two days. Prevention is simple, cook all fish before feeding any to your dog. If you are outdoors hiking or camping or live near streams and rivers were salmon spawn, keep a close eye on your dog on don't let your pet run free to insure that no fish carcasses are ingested. Please see your vet immediately if you suspect your dog has ingested raw salmon. Salt Iodized salt and salty foods can cause stomach ailments and pancreatitis. Some dogs, especially large breeds, have been known to gulp too much water after eating salty foods and developed a life threatening condition called bloat during which the stomach fills with gas and twists, leading to a painful death unless emergency treatment is received immediately. Table Scraps Table scraps are not a nutritionally balanced diet for a dog. If fed at all scraps should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat and all cooked bones discarded. Also see "Rich, Fatty Foods" above. Tobacco Products Cigarettes and cigarette butts, cigars, pipe tobacco, nicotine patches, nicotine gum and chewing tobacco can be fatal to dogs if ingested. Signs of nicotine poisoning can appear within an hour and include hyperactivity, salivation, panting, vomiting and diarrhea. Advanced signs include muscle weakness, twitching, collapse, coma, increased heart rate and cardiac arrest. If anyone who lives in or visits your home smokes, tell them to keep tobacco products out of reach of pets and to dispose of butts immediately. If you suspect your dog has ingested any of these seek veterinary treatment immediately. Tomatoes and Tomato Plants These contain atropine which can cause dialated pupils, tremors and irregular heartbeat. The highest concentration of atropine is found in the leaves and stems of tomato plants, next is the unripe (green) tomatoes and then the ripe tomato. Water Yet another surprise to find on the Bad Foods List is water, but there are dangers lurking in water that you need to be aware of. * Stagnant water in ponds, bogs, small lakes, canals, seasonal creeks and other places where water sets still may contain harmful bacteria (Leptospira interrogans) and parasites such as giardia. * Toilet water with freshner or cleaners in the tank or bowl contain toxic chemicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr R & NR Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Hot Spot Treatment 3 parts witchhazel 1 part aloe vera gel (not juice) Apply to hot spot area twice a day. The aloe sooths the itch and the witch hazel dries up the spot. Do not shave the area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BittyMooPeeb Posted March 14, 2007 Author Share Posted March 14, 2007 Meat tray absorbtion packs Originally posted by heidig24 Cibo ate the absorbtion pack out of a chicken tray during the night (sneaky!) and after freaking out when I realised, I first searched Dogzonline and couldn't really find anything definate so I rang the vet and she told me to take him in straight away, gave him an injection to make him throw up and voila! I won't go into the messy details... sick2.gif Anyway, the explanation she gave was whilst he hadn't ingested the plastic wrapping (which can get caught anywhere on the way down, the absorbtion part can be dangerous as well - if the dog doesn't pass it right away it can cause dehydration depending on how much liquid it can hold. Of course, it would then grow and make it harder to pass causing blockages etc... A very tangled web of problems. Some of these problems may only be because he is a shih tzu and therefore quite small but probably best for everyone to be aware - I am sure they are a tempting snack for all dogs!!! Ironically, I had left the packaging on the bench instead of putting it in the bin in case he got into the bin during the night but the stupid wind blew it off the bench during the night! banghead.gif Hope this helps anyone else who comes across this problem in the future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badboyz Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 BEEF LIVER REMEDY FOR FADING PUPPIES It's so simple.....Large piece of Beef Liver, little bit of water, boil slowly, about 5 minutes until the blood comes out. Let cool, drain the liquid and put just 4 drops (no matter the breed) into a dropper and give to puppy. At first you give it every 2 hours for 12 hours, then every 4 hours. The article says you can do this for however long you have to, until you feel the puppy is thriving. I did this for 2 days and the turn around was miraculous. This was the smallest puppy, just 4 ounces, out of a litter of 7. He was doing fine for 3 days, then he began to fade. After only the second dose, he came around, but I continued for 2 days. Don't use any of the liver itself, it's way too rich, just the liquid. I wouldn't have another litter without a piece of beef liver in the freezer. I just spoke to a friend who has a much larger breed and she said she gave the 4 drops every hour for 12 hours and then went to every 2 hours, then to 4 hours. So I guess you can vary it for different breeds. She agreed it was amazing. She had 2 fading puppies and they are fine now." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxiewolf Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 This May be worth a mention - When Using Spot Ons, Use a SOAP FREE Shampoo on your dog between treatments. Soap in shampoos Removes oils from the dogs coat, as Many Spot ons work with the oils on a dogs coat, Washign with Soap Dramaticly Reduces if not Ceases the Usefulness of the Spot on. This is well worth knowing if you rely on something like Advantix to protect your dog from Paralisis Ticks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shmoo Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 This May be worth a mention - When Using Spot Ons, Use a SOAP FREE Shampoo on your dog between treatments. Soap in shampoos Removes oils from the dogs coat, as Many Spot ons work with the oils on a dogs coat, Washign with Soap Dramaticly Reduces if not Ceases the Usefulness of the Spot on. This is well worth knowing if you rely on something like Advantix to protect your dog from Paralisis Ticks. thats good info, can i ask where its from? just wanna back it up and put in it my book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyhldher Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Can recommend Manuka honey (30+) as a great antiseptic, and wound healer; also good for anytime pooch has an upset stomach, or having an 'off' day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalsluvbree Posted June 18, 2007 Share Posted June 18, 2007 This May be worth a mention - When Using Spot Ons, Use a SOAP FREE Shampoo on your dog between treatments. Soap in shampoos Removes oils from the dogs coat, as Many Spot ons work with the oils on a dogs coat, Washign with Soap Dramaticly Reduces if not Ceases the Usefulness of the Spot on. This is well worth knowing if you rely on something like Advantix to protect your dog from Paralisis Ticks. thats good info, can i ask where its from? just wanna back it up and put in it my book all flea products will tell you to wait 24-48hours after washing your dog to apply the treatment as any kind of washing will strip the coat of the sebum. and if you apply right after a bath dogs and cats can get contact irritations from the liquid as it just sits there and doesn't move Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shmoo Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 This May be worth a mention - When Using Spot Ons, Use a SOAP FREE Shampoo on your dog between treatments. Soap in shampoos Removes oils from the dogs coat, as Many Spot ons work with the oils on a dogs coat, Washign with Soap Dramaticly Reduces if not Ceases the Usefulness of the Spot on. This is well worth knowing if you rely on something like Advantix to protect your dog from Paralisis Ticks. thats good info, can i ask where its from? just wanna back it up and put in it my book all flea products will tell you to wait 24-48hours after washing your dog to apply the treatment as any kind of washing will strip the coat of the sebum. and if you apply right after a bath dogs and cats can get contact irritations from the liquid as it just sits there and doesn't move true about the waiting period. and never thought of that when applying straight after a bath. hmm interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BittyMooPeeb Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 BREAKAWAY COLLARS: (to prevent strangulation if a collar gets caught) http://www.barfnsw.com.au/breakaway_collar.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amadeus Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 NORMAL HEALTH PARAMETERS FOR A DOG Temperature: 37.9 - 39.9 (rectal) Resting Respiration Rate: 18-25 (sleeping), 20-34 (standing, rest) Heart Rate: 70-120 beats/min Capillary Refill Time: less than or equal to 2 seconds Can be useful if your not sure on general health, or monitoring a sick animal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthernStarPits Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 SMS, can you post this in teh 'sticky' health thread (if it is OK to do so copyright-wise)Gail Very interesting reading!I'd been meaning to find out what this titer test was all about for ages. I agree this should be a sticky. Regarding the 3 year vaccination, I was reading recently that it IS an extra strong dose. Please don't ask me what thread, but I think it may have been in General. TITER TEST TOPIC PAGE FOUND ON BELOW DOL LINK http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=90000 Testing a dog’s serum antibody titers can prevent overvaccinating. Few issues in veterinary medicine are as controversial as the debate about administering annual vaccinations to our dogs. Long considered part of the standard of baseline, responsible veterinary healthcare, and credited with conquering some of the fiercest canine viral and other infectious diseases, vaccinations now are also suspected of creating vulnerability to illnesses and chronic conditions such as anemia, arthritis, seizures, allergies, gastrointestinal and thyroid disorders, and cancer. As we’ve previously discussed in numerous articles, few people advocate refraining from the use of vaccinations altogether, but increasing numbers of veterinary experts recommend administering fewer vaccines to our dogs than was suggested in recent years. The current wisdom is to vaccinate our animal companions enough, but not too much. Does this seem a little arbitrary? It could, especially since the veterinary profession lacks complete information about exactly how long the effects of canine vaccines last. (We bet you thought that most vaccines “last” about a year, which is why you are supposed to bring your dog to the vet for more shots every year, right? Well, you’re wrong, and we’ll explain why below.) Fortunately, there is a tool that veterinarians and dog owners can use to determine whether or not a dog really needs further vaccination at any given time. It’s called a “titer test,” and it’s readily available, not terribly expensive, and offers multiple advantages over the practices (intentional or not) of over-vaccination and under-vaccination. To understand what a titer test is and what it can do for you and your dog, you need a little background information about vaccinations and their use. History of “recommended vaccine schedules” As lifesaving vaccines for various canine diseases have been developed over the last 50 years, veterinarians and dog owners gladly embraced them. Many diseases were prevented, and a new industry was born. Like any industry, it soon set about making itself indispensable. Increasingly, veterinarians were sold on the concept that if some vaccines are good, more are better – for their patients and their bottom line. So it came to pass that for decades, vets followed the label recommendations directing that canine vaccines be administered annually. In the late 1970s, a deadly parvovirus epidemic killed thousands of dogs and wiped out whole litters of puppies, eventually halted by the mass administration of the parvovirus vaccine. This episode emphasized the important role of vaccinations in canine healthcare and labeled veterinarians who challenged the annual administration of vaccines as mutinous. And there was, in fact, a small population of insurgent veterinarians who had doubts about the necessity of frequent vaccination. Many holistic practitioners – who often see patients with complex, mystifying symptoms of poor health, patients who have not been helped or even diagnosed by conventionally trained veterinarians – suspected a link between vaccines and immune disorders. In their minds, it was easy to surmise that there might be a connection between agents that are designed to provoke an immune response and their patients’ poor or inappropriate immune responses. But while drug companies are motivated to fund studies that can develop more vaccines they can sell for a profit, they are understandably disinclined to spend money on studies that may discover their products’ potential for harm, or how few vaccines our companion animals really need for disease protection. As a result, only anecdotal evidence provided by “vaccine rebels” – owners and veterinarians who either do not vaccinate or vaccinate on a reduced schedule – seemed to suggest that dogs and cats might be better off receiving fewer vaccines. But until recently there was little scientific evidence that supported this idea, perhaps none that was accepted in the conventional university veterinarian research community. Then, in the early 1990s, laboratory researchers at the University of Pennsylvania noticed a connection between the marked increase in the number of sarcomas, or cancerous tumors, under the skin at the site of rabies vaccine administration in cats. Later, researchers at the University of California at Davis noted that feline leukemia vaccines seemed to cause the same results. Taken aback by the inflammatory nature of the animals’ reaction to the vaccines, veterinary researchers began to suspect that immediate reactions to vaccinations, delayed reactions to vaccinations, or the combined effects of multiple vaccinations, could be risk factors for other ailments and chronic diseases in cats and dogs. As vaccines and their long-term effects became a (at least minor) topic of mainstream veterinary interest, one small but important fact came to light: there is no universally accepted “standard vaccination protocol” that has the approval of say, the American Veterinary Medical Association and/or the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine. The prevailing vaccination recommendations and schedules that most veterinarians and veterinary colleges recommend have been based on the research and suggestions of the manufacturers – not on independent scientific research. This point had long been recognized by the vaccine rebels, but disregarded by most conventional veterinarians. Why more is not better Jean Dodds, DVM, a highly respected veterinary hematologist, and founder and president of the nonprofit Hemopet, a California-based animal blood bank, pioneered the vaccine debate decades ago and is now considered one of the leading authorities on canine vaccine protocols. According to Dr. Dodds, many recent studies confirm that the vast majority of dogs, in most cases at least 95 percent of the subjects, retain immunity after vaccination for many years after the administration of a vaccine. She states that the “evidence implicating vaccines in triggering immune-mediated and other chronic disorders (vaccinosis) is compelling.” Adverse reactions to conventional vaccines can be the same as reactions to any chemicals, drugs, or infectious agents. Immediate (or anaphylactic) reactions can occur in the 24-48 hours following exposure to the vaccine. Delayed reactions can occur 10-45 days after receiving vaccines. Symptoms include fever, stiffness, sore joints, abdominal tenderness, nervous system disorders, susceptibility to infections, and hemorrhages or bruising. Transient seizures can appear in puppies and adults. More long-term harmful effects can result in permanent damage to the dog’s immune system, which increases the dog’s susceptibility to chronic, debilitating diseases affecting the blood, endocrine organs, joints, skin, central nervous system, liver, kidneys, and bowel. In addition, vaccines can overwhelm a chronically ill dog, or a dog that has a genetic predisposition to react adversely to viral exposure, even from the modified live viral agents or killed virus in vaccines. So, given the possible health risks of administering too many vaccines, especially when a dog likely retains the immunologic protection supplied by previous vaccinations, how can a responsible dog owner decide on a safe and effective vaccine schedule for the life of their dog? As we suggested earlier, the answer is titer tests. Understanding titer tests The term “titer” refers to the strength or concentration of a substance in a solution. When testing vaccine titers in dogs, a veterinarian takes a blood sample from a dog and has the blood tested for the presence and strength of the dog’s immunological response to a viral disease. If the dog demonstrates satisfactory levels of vaccine titers, the dog is considered sufficiently immune to the disease, or possessing good “immunologic memory,” and not in need of further vaccination against the disease at that time. Using the new TiterCHEKTM test kit, your veterinarian can now draw blood from your dog when you first arrive for his annual health exam, and within 15 minutes, be able to tell you whether or not he needs any vaccines. Titer tests do not distinguish between the immunity generated by vaccination and that generated by natural exposure to disease agents. A dog may have developed immunity to a viral disease by receiving a vaccine against the disease, by being exposed to the disease in the natural environment and conquering it, sometimes without having demonstrated any symptoms of exposure to the disease, or by a combination of the two. Therefore, titer tests really measure both the “priming of the pump” that comes from vaccines, and the immunity resulting from natural exposure to disease during a dog’s lifetime. Only an indoor dog that has been totally sequestered from the natural environment is likely to have developed all of its immunity from vaccinations. Although the magnitude of immunity protection received by vaccination only is usually lower than by vaccination plus exposure, it doesn’t matter how your dog developed its strong immunity to specific viral diseases, as long as the immunity is present. By “titering” annually, a dog owner can assess whether her dog’s immune response has fallen below adequate levels. In that event, an appropriate vaccine booster can be administered. Which titers tests? Some dog owners, aware that there are dozens of vaccines available, are concerned that they would need to order titer tests for each vaccine. Actually, measuring the titers for just two vaccines, according to Dr. Dodds, can offer the dog owner a reliable “picture” of the dog’s immunological status. Good immunity to canine parvovirus (CPV) and canine distemper virus (CDV), she says, indicates proper “markers for the competence of the dog’s immune system.” Although the laboratories will also perform vaccine titer tests for other canine diseases, such as coronavirus and Lyme, Dr. Dodds deems these tests a waste of money. Protection from coronavirus, Dr. Dodds explains, depends on the current state of health of the dog’s gastrointestinal tract, not on what’s in the dog’s blood, so serum tests are not conclusive. Lyme is regionally based and not a significant threat to the general canine population, so only dogs in a high-risk environment need titer testing for Lyme. Dr. Dodds emphasizes that titer testing is not a “guess” at immunological response in a dog; when dealing with CDV and CDP, there is absolute correlation between certain high titer values and what is frequently referred to as “protection” from the diseases in question. In this case, the animal’s owner and veterinarian can feel quite confident that the animal possesses sufficient resources for fighting off a disease challenge. When the tests reveal that the animal has borderline or low titer values, the owner and veterinarian should consider revaccinating and then testing the titers again. It may turn out that the animal simply needed a booster to stimulate a stronger immune response. Or, maybe the people involved learn that the animal lacks the ability to respond normally to vaccines, that is, by mounting a proper immune response. In this case, the owner and veterinarian have gained very valuable information about the dog’s compromised immune status – information they never would have gained by simply vaccinating and assuming the dog was “protected” as is usually the case with healthy dogs. As you can see, in reality, simply administering vaccines to dogs every year is more of a guessing game than using titer tests to learn about the dog’s immune competence. Studies worldwide support titer test results as comprehensive information about a dog’s immunological response capabilities. Now more affordable Because the more widely recognized benefits of titer testing have caused an increase in the number of titer tests performed at veterinary laboratories, the price is coming down and the tests are available from a wide range of providers. Veterinary laboratories offer traditional vaccine titer testing by looking at a blood sample from a dog and identifying a specific level of actual immunity in the dog. Reputable laboratories use commonly accepted immunological techniques that have been validated against original test techniques and found to be accurate. Be certain your veterinarian sends blood samples to a major professional veterinary laboratory such as Antech Diagnostics (www.antechdiagnostics.com), Idexx Laboratories (www.idexx.com), Vita-Tech Laboratories (www.vita-tech.com), or one of the major university veterinary laboratories, including Cornell, Colorado State, Michigan State, Tufts, and Texas A&M. In early spring 2002, Synbiotics Corporation, a San Diego-based manufacturer of diagnostic materials and instrumentation for the veterinary market, rolled out an innovative tool that should make titer testing even more readily available and affordable. TiterCHEKTM is the first in-office titer test licensed by the USDA for use in veterinary clinics. TiterCHEKTM tests titers for canine parvovirus and canine distemper virus, registering the degree of strength of the immune response in varying color shades. If the test results denote a weak immune response level, blood samples can be sent to a veterinary laboratory for more comprehensive testing. Dr. Dodds estimates that more than 95 percent of in-office tests will indicate a satisfactory immune response present in a dog that has received its puppy vaccinations and one-year boosters, so follow-up is rarely required. Expect to pay your veterinarian from $40 to $100 for CDV and CPV titer testing from a laboratory, and slightly less for an in-office test, for which your veterinarian must purchase the TiterCHEKTM test kit. Resisting vaccine titer testing As practicing clinicians, veterinarians are hesitant to adjust any clinical regimen they have adopted until they see research study data that they judge to be functional and applicable in the real world. Many veterinarians resisted rethinking the annual canine vaccine regimen based upon the early findings of researchers. However, the increased evidence linking over-vaccination to acute and chronic diseases in dogs has finally caused a mainstream conviction that vaccination protocols are not a one-size-fits-all healthcare decision. Indeed, Dr. Dodds, once considered a rebel by the veterinary profession, now speaks to standing-room-only audiences at the most prestigious professional conferences in the country. The perceived need for annual vaccinations used to motivate many dog owners to make appointments with their veterinarians for their dog’s annual wellness checkup. Veterinarians now hope that annual titer tests will perform a similar function. Having your dog examined by a veterinarian at least once a year is critically important for detecting, preventing, and treating any diseases or other ailments as early as possible. Adding the ability to check your dog’s immunological health and custom-tailor his vaccine schedule to his actual needs will impressively augment this important task. It has been estimated that only about 60 percent of pet dogs receive the minimum disease prevention vaccination protocol. Ironically, in an attempt to provide their beloved animal companions with the best possible care, many highly motivated owners arrange for their dogs to receive several times the necessary dose of vaccinations, to the point of risking the adverse effects of over-vaccination on the health of the dog’s immune system. Consumers who do care about managing the effectiveness of their dog’s immune system against the most dangerous canine viral diseases now have the means to do so without risking their dog’s health in the process. When you and your dog visit your veterinarian for an annual checkup, take the titer test. source: Whole Dog Journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecollie Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 What is the best recommendation for keeping flies away from your dogs ears etc?? Products & Home Remedies please? :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riley'n'Mia Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 What is the best recommendation for keeping flies away from your dogs ears etc??Products & Home Remedies please? I just noticed a few weeks back that fly's were hanging out on the ends of my 6mnth old GSD's rather large ears when I touched them a small amount of dots of blood came off on my fingers the little b*stards have been biting them so I got this product off the vet Ilium Fly Ointment 50gm the fly's hate it haven't touched his ears since it's only about $7 and lasts for ages. Don't know of any home remedies though sorry ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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