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I Cant Take My Dog For A Walk...


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I have just moved from out of town, large yard, to into town and a small yard. And I think it is best that I take my 1 year old Weim for daily walks (for her and for me :laugh: ). Trouble is she is soo excited during our walks she constantly pulls on the lead. This is a real pain in the rear and I am really dreading the time when I have to walk her. My hands are so sore after wards.

This is what I have tried so far... making her sit every time she pulls ont he flat collar, using only check chain, this leads to her having a really red neck, using a check chain and a flat collar, she still gets a red neck. I am under the impression that she should be able to differentiate that she is using the check chain for obedience, the flat collar for general walks, the harness for tracking etc etc. She is fine to heal during obedience.

Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas?

I really want to eventually go for runs but I think I will fall over her or something. She has gotten a little better since we have started going for walks but not much.

Thanks again

Sandra

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Try turning abruptly in the other direction when she starts pulling. You'll find that she will get a bit of a shock. If you do this constantly, granted you won't get very far in your walk, but you should eventually be able to stop her pulling just by tugging on her leash. Another way is to take a spray bottle of water with you, and when she pulls, spray this at her rump. Again this will give her a bit of a shock and eventually she should fall in line.

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You know I'd tried so many different things in relation to this problem (with fosters) and then at herding up in Sydney an old sheep herding guy taught me THE most fantastic trick at herding!!!! Walk with a long stick, swing it back and forward just in front of you like a pendulum, backward and forward, backward and forward, not hard but just gentling swinging, pooch hates walking into it and doesn't associate it with you, they walk into it and instead end up preferring to stay on heel. Eventually you can walk without the stick.

Its the whole make what you don't want uncomfortable and what you want comfortable for the dog, comfortable for the dog is not walking ahead of you.

Take Care

Riles

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My hands are so sore after wards.

The best thing I've ever bought is a lead with a padded handle- I've seen them around in pet shops and they're well worth it if you have a pulling dog. Gloves might also be a good idea for now as well.

This is what I have tried so far... making her sit every time she pulls ont he flat collar, using only check chain, this leads to her having a really red neck, using a check chain and a flat collar, she still gets a red neck. I am under the impression that she should be able to differentiate that she is using the check chain for obedience, the flat collar for general walks, the harness for tracking etc etc. She is fine to heal during obedience.

If her neck is all red then you're using the check chain wrong. I know this probably sounds impossible at this point but she should never be allowed to choke herself on the end of the lead- check chains are designed for a quick correction followed by a release. If a dog feels pressure around their neck/chest, their instinctive response is to pull against it, resulting in even more pressure around the neck- therefore letting her hang on the end of the check chain is actually encouraging her to pull even more.

Also, have you tried positioning the check chain around the top of her neck, just below her ears? It'll keep her head up which takes some of the determination out of the pull and it's also a very sentitive area so she'll feel the chain more. I think you'll find that she won't pull anywhere near as much when it sits there and it'll give you enough slack on the lead to be able to get in a correction when/if she does pull.

Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas?

You said that she heels ok? Well, I'd work on heeling her more often during walks which will encourage her to be more patient, ecpecially at the start of a walk. If she's free out front and pulls, stop walking and have her sit. She pulls because she wants to move faster, if you stop every time she pulls you that will help her understand that pulling != forwards.

I really want to eventually go for runs but I think I will fall over her or something. She has gotten a little better since we have started going for walks but not much.

Once again, I'd work on heeling but vary your speed so you can build her up to a run while sticking to your side. I personally wouldn't run with a dog unless it was under a heel command as otherwise they think it's ok to stop and sniff things. This is coming personal experience and a big scar on my shoulder from being cut off by my dog while running at full speed :laugh:

Edited by jaybeece
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I cant understand how the check chain would stay around the top of her neck. Wouldn't the minute it goes loose it would slip down to its usual position?

Anyway I have looked up on the net and seen the link that the previous poster has suggested. I am still doing the sit if she pulls method... I was just wondering how long will it be before I see some improvements? I am walking her now in a place with less distractions, throwing a ball before going on walks to tire her out a little.

This morning I tried the stick thing that another poster suggested bingo, I got her attention, well not me but the stick did. She is a fan of the stick.... to chase to chew to destroy to fetch etc etc. It kind of worked cos she was heeling if the stick was beside me.

I will be taking her to obedience starting this week. But with the information I have just given is there something else I could have missed or am not doing right?

Thanks for the tips so far

Sandra

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instead of making her sit when she pulls, call her name and change direction, don't pull her let her follow you. Flat collar.

she pulls

you stop

you call her name (praise when she looks too)

you change direction

you praise her

good girl

You need to work too to get her to focus on you, try food and lots of praise. When you go to obedience you will get heaps more info, it really isn't a simple or isolated solution getting your dog to walk without pulling it is a part of a bigger picture.

The walk in the park is so different to heelwork, use different words, like walkies, lets go when you set off. Allow her to sniff but not to pull, long leash. Make sure you have a comfy leash for walking, some really rip your hands, the soft cloth 6ft training leads are gentle on the hands, the flash pretty leads are nylon and rip your hands, wear gloves and try not to let the lead run through your hand.

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Why dont you try a martingale collar instead of a check chain, it can be adjusted to stay behind the ears.

If you are in Sydney or near Sydney contact K9Force and get a lesson. He will sort it out for you in a flesh.

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M: If you are in Sydney or near Sydney contact K9Force and get a lesson. He will sort it out for you in a flesh.

K9: I hope you mean FLASH, because its a litle cold to get the gear off outside at the moment :laugh::) :p :cool:

Wow K9 are you offering a FLASH with every lesson now??? I'll be on the next plane :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

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Riles, I am picturing you walking with a big stick and I'm :laugh:

But it sounds like a good idea for some dogs though :cool:

Sorry Sandra :p

I used to have the same problem with mine, now they do it less, it just takes time, hang in there, you are doing a good job

K9, with your already rave rewiews imagine what doing it in the flesh would do?!!! :)

Edited for crap spelling

Edited by shoemonster
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have you tried a head collar as well.. black dogs infin8 is awsome i know it doesnt soleve the problem totally.. and there have been many many discussions here on head collars and different methods to stop pulling, i had a lb boy who nearly pulled me over had trouble walking him as i also have a bad shoulder and back... it stopped him immediately and my 6 year old daughter could even walk him,, supoervised of course.. we had great results with it.. and in the end i was clipping lead to flat collar and just had the head collar on him was working to taking it off.. he was having great results with it..

could just be also , you said u have moved to a smaller yard.. is it a different place to where u used to walk...? there are so many interesting sights sounds and smalls out there for doggies.. he may just be excited and checking it all out.. dont give up,, good luck and you will get loads of great advice here..

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Im sure K9 can offer both flesh and flash with any training he does

:) :p :cool:

I will add this spelling error to my collection, its extensive as is, but this one is really funny :laugh: Watch out for more, 4 weeks of speaking Polish and you might find amazing results :rofl:

Plus K9 I thought that you are not bothered by a bit of a cold weather! Or is the weather an excuse for not getting the flesh out? :rofl:

Edited by myszka
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I detest dogs who pull on the leash. And my newest youngster, who arrived at 10 and half months, used to do so terribly. I am no lightweight and he managed to have me on the bum on more than one occasion. I was not happy!!!! Sadly I lost my temper once, which shames me still.

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"I detest dogs who pull on the leash"

I do too!! My lab learned not too (he was a sod) and I lost my cool too., and my poodle is going too to. I am a bit loathe to give advice over the net on this subject because there can some behaviours behind the pulling, and it is very hard to judge the ability of the handler as far as timing and physical strength goes.

In broad terms I am aware of the following positive methods

1) The bone or dogs or people method similar principal to TOT but different execution

2) Stop and reverse method

3) Gentle leader managment method. Low probability of success possibly for a weim

4) Mark and go home method.

I have several other methods, but I wouldn't think about them for a strong weim.

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I encounter this problem on a weekly basis. I am obedience instructor, and unfortunately, what works for one dog, may not work for another. I for one would not try the stick method suggested by Riley (bubblegirl) this will only add problems with head shyness if you actually make contact with your dogs head! Not what I would call a proven method.

Methods I would suggest you try are:

1. When you go for a walk, always carry food in your left pocket, or a bumbag on your left (this may encourage the dog to walk on your left side (heeling) if you use something tasty enough, like chicken or liver treats). When walking your dog, try using a lead with padding in the handle and a flat collar on the dog. Everytime the dog pulled, change direction, reward your dog after you have changed direction and is close to you. Do this everytime your dog pulls. Some dogs will pick up that everytime they pull, they have the direction changed, which is of course annoying to them (and you) and they will soon cotton on that if they don't pull, that you will continue in one direction, normally the direction they want to go. But then again, some dogs just don't get it. Give it at least a 7 day work out....

2. If the above method doesn't work, then i would suggest a "Gentle Leader". This is a head collar that is fitted on the dogs head. This works wonders.... First with a flat collar, you have the weight of the whole dog pulling at your should, and is likely t rip it out of its socket.. But with a head collar, you just have the weight of th dogs head to deal with, much nicer to deal with... My suggestion with this is let your dog wear the head collar for 5 minutes or so a day without a lead attached out in the yard or in the house with supervision. this is to get your dog use to it. You will see quite a few dogs rubbing their heads along the ground trying to get the head collar off their heads. This is typical behaviour, and you should reward your dog when they are not trying to rub it off. Now back onto walking your dog.......

Same principal applies, ensure you carry tasy food on your walks, or a squeaky top, what ever gets your dogs rocks off.... Reward your dog when they are walking the way that you want them too. The other thing to remember with a head collar, you should always have a flatcollar on the dog as well, with a double lead (one end of the lead attaches to the head collar, the other to the flat collar). When walking, pull on the flat collar first, then if that doesn't work, then gently on the head collar. If you use this method, then you should be able to get rid of head collar in less than 6 months time.

These two methods are the most sucessful methods used on dogs. I just hope they work. Unfortunately, no method will work overnight, and will take consistancy and patience.

Good luck.

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