ncarter Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 so you are standing say 3 metres away from the dog with the food in between the 2 of you. the dog is atttached a lead with you holding the end of the lead. Is this right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rom Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Hey NC, It seems that Steve might be a little busy, so if he doesn't mind I'll jump in and answer this one for you. As the name of the program suggests you form a triangle...you on one point, the dog on another and the food bowl on the third. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve K9Pro Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 K9: Rom is correct, K9 very busy... Also correct on the explaination, I might just add, the "3" metres thing isnt three metres, its where the dog goes from full drive peak to focussed, could be 3 metres, could 1, could be ten... Only the amount of drive in the dog will tell.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncarter Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 thanks guys i will have to read it again. But will still probably have to ask another question. Rom how did you find it? cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rom Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Hey NC, Sorry its taken me a little while to reply.... I was waiting for this: Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kateykateykatey Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 WOW! This is fantastic! Started this on Scrimp tonight, we're trying to overcome dog-to-dog aggression when walking and I think that this is good groundwork for attempting to deal with the problem. He already knows to wait before being fed, and looked at me straight away. To make sure I'm perfectly clear, (I've read the whole thread, but I like to make doubly certain! ) 1. Dog is tied up (to a chair on the deck). 2. I go inside, take my sweet time about getting food ready. 3. Dog is calm, I come outside, and put his food bowl in a spot where he thinks that maybe it's not for him. (is this correct?? ) 4. I stand on his right side. 5. He looks at me, I say, "YES" and "OK" to free him. 6. He runs to his food, and eats. 7. Can I move his bowl? I just moved it out of the walkway, I wasn't sure if that mattered. 8. I went straight inside afterwards. 9. I increase the time he looks at me for, then distance, then add distraction. I'd already started teaching him "Eyes to me", which is a long and cumbersome command. Is YES supposed to be the same command?? He struggles to do anything remotely obedient (except sit, and heel, somewhat) when we're walking. I'm assuming the TOT will make some super headway in to changing this?? *fingers crossed* btw, CONGRATULATIONS ROM! That was a great story! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rom Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Hi KKK, Yes it was a fantastic feeling! The 'Yes' isn't a command, its a marker word to let your dog know that he has done the right thing. There are no commands to start off with, try to wait until the dog offers the look. You're trying to build a foundation of the dog looking to you for answers on how to get the reward rather than trying to control what he does with commands. The dog is learning self control from scratch rather than you trying to control him. You can guide him or give him hints. Its kind of like the dog offering the behaviour but he is allowed to make mistakes to figure out what doesn't work. Thats also the reason for the tie out....that way its not you preventing him from getting the food through trying to control him with commands etc. so make sure the tie out is secure and that he can't win the food by pulling against the tie out...depending on the size of your dog or the weight of the chair I'd be careful about using this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltron Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I started the TOT today with my 5 month old Tentie... it'll be interesting to see how it goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltron Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) I am still doing the TOT... Charlie is slowly learning to make eye contact with me. Quick Q: Do I put the bowl down on the ground out of his reach when I stand next to him? Because I have been standing next to him while holding the bowl with my arm outstretched. Edited October 17, 2007 by deltron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rom Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Yes, you put the bowl on the ground. If your dog is jumping around and pulling at the tie back to try and get to it, his drive is too high to learn, and this indicates that the bowl is too close. So move it away until he settles a bit...or as K9 says, to the point where he thinks it may not be for him after all. Then go back and stand by him. He will probably still be staring at the bowl you can either wait until he looks at you for answers on how to get it or if a few minutes have passed and he still hasn't looked at you, make a noise to attract his attention. Then mark with 'yes' and release him to get the food. Keep in mind that you're not trying to control him or direct him, rather you are setting up circumstances so that he figures out for himself what earns the release and he is allowed to try different things. My girl sat while staring at the bowl, then stood while staring at the bowl, then barked at the bowl, then did a play bow....she went through every trick she knew then finally she looked at me. My job was not to stop her from trying all this stuff, infact, it was to allow her to play it all through her mind so she could eliminate all the things that didn't work. With each repetition at each feed time, she tried fewer things and got to looking at me sooner until she figured for herself, the sooner she looked at me, the sooner she got the release. Then we started to stretch out the time that she had to hold eye contact with me in order to earn the release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltron Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) Thanks Rom. This is working quite well. Charlie is giving my good eye contact lately. I notice he looks in my eyes more when we go for walks and he has a VERY positive association with his lead now. Today I put him out and he went into a drop, but kept on jumping around and then dropping again. I realised he was being bitten by ants!! Poor thing. He was trying so hard to be still and make eye contact. Edited October 22, 2007 by deltron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beks Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Hello.. I've recently bought an 8 month old beagle and tried this training with him last week. It didn't go as expected however, and I'm wondering whether anyone else has had this problem, and what they suggest? When I take the food out to him he seems reasonably excited. I start from bringing the food towards him until he seems interested. He watches and watches (not hugely excited, but definitely focused on it). The problem I'm having is that once the food is out of his reach, he loses interest right away - and I mean, even if it's 10cm away from his snout, he seems to realise that he can't reach it, and it just sits back and starts looking around the yard! The only time he's interested is when he can actually touch the food, otherwise he isn't interested! Should I skip a meal and try again, or is there another way I can do it? Any help would be much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve K9Pro Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 K9: start by putting the food under his nose & try it when its just out of his reach.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LoveMyCuddledog Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Triton & I already practice much of this so getting him to advance to the next stages should be fairly easy. I've tried other methods but have had little success or noticed a marked interest in him displaying fearful tendancies to noises & even his own shadow. Having said that he has deferred to me recently in situations where smaller dogs have gone to bite him allowing me to step in & make them back off where in the past he would have had a go at them & made them submit. He's a great dog but I can see this could possibly make him the best! Thanks for posting this. I've also forwarded it to people I know who might benefit. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve K9Pro Posted November 28, 2007 Author Share Posted November 28, 2007 K9: The concept is to pair the dogs success with the Alpha, teach the dog to self control & not use force or stregth to control the dog. When the dog understands the concept, this makes it the groundwork needed to advance with things such as fear tendancies & many other issues, for dogs without issues, its a great way to teach communication & structure the pack... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barts Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) K9 Force, i've been reading and practicing your training methods, my puppy is going great but i'm having a couple of small issues which i want to deal with sooner rather than later. 1. She keeps jumping up on people, pets etc etc and i've tried many different ways to stop this but need some professional help. She is a happy dog and there doesn't seem to be anything in her intent beside play. 2. We have a cat and she loves her...so much in fact all she wants to do is jump all over him and lick him to death, she doesn't hurt the cat just seems very excited whenever the cat is around. I believe that the 2 issues are linked so any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah my dog is a 17 week old female staffy. Cheers Merry x-mas and a Happy News to everyone on Dogzonline Edited December 30, 2007 by Barts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve K9Pro Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 K9 Force, i've been reading and practicing your training methods, my puppy is going great but i'm having a couple of small issues which i want to deal with sooner rather than later. 1. She keeps jumping up on people, pets etc etc and i've tried many different ways to stop this but need some professional help. She is a happy dog and there doesn't seem to be anything in her intent beside play. K9: there probably isnt but every time she practices this, it only seats this behaviour deeper. 2. We have a cat and she loves her...so much in fact all she wants to do is jump all over him and lick him to death, she doesn't hurt the cat just seems very excited whenever the cat is around. K9: Yes they probably are linked to the way the dog has been socialised, our dog has (it seems) high values for people & your cat, & is over reactive.... I believe that the 2 issues are linked so any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah my dog is a 17 week old female staffy. K9: The TOT is a foundation prgram that teaches people the concepts of reading & controlling their dogs drives, some things are out of the scope of the TOT on its on & this is when you need someone to instruct you on how to deal with your dog specifically.The TOT is a great program because it works on ALL dogs of ALL temperaments, which is a rare thing in dog training, but some "dog/temperament specific" training will also be required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainy Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 id like to start the tot training method but am unsure if i can as you say that the food shold be prepared after all higher members have eaten. in this house the kid eat at around 530 and my husband and i eat around 7 when the kids are in bed as hubby is not normaly home befor 630 and i like to wait for him diesel usualy is let inside after the kids are finished dinner and sits on his mat for the rest of the night i have been feeding him at the same time as the kids or do i have to wait till hubby and i have finnished dinner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve K9Pro Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 id like to start the tot training method but am unsure if i can as you say that the food shold be prepared after all higher members have eaten. in this house the kid eat at around 530 and my husband and i eat around 7 when the kids are in bed as hubby is not normaly home befor 630 and i like to wait for him diesel usualy is let inside after the kids are finished dinner and sits on his mat for the rest of the night i have been feeding him at the same time as the kids or do i have to wait till hubby and i have finnished dinner K9: Its just "good practice" for the lower pack member to eat last, but its not essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcblondie Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 so i started doing this to my dog today. and he just seems so sad now and really distant with me. i'm thinking about stopping if it makes my dog distant. is this normal and is it gonna effect his personality? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now