Canine First Aid Kit

[Better Late]

We'll be going on a long roadtrip in late August/early September to NSW from Central Vic, so as well as intending to do a pet first aid course, I'm getting a first aid kit ready for Bonnie. Not only for the trip but for general use as well (I am aware a doggy first aid kit/course is NO replacement for professional vet care but I'm the kind of person who needs to have all of her bases covered in case of emergency).

I like the St Johns kit as a basic template, but would be interested in what others might have in their kits additionally? Such as rectal thermometers, charcoal tablets, vaseline, any unusual items that you've found work well for specific purposes. What does your kit consist of?

[_PL_]

Eye wash. A couple of saline things from the chemist.

One of the dog-safe antihistamines for bee sting. I'll find the dose chart but I'm sure dolers will know it.

And if you have anything like chlorsig (eye ointment for a scratch on the eye) which may have been subscribed to you before.

Neocort (cortisone cream for itchy bites) they give the dog a little comfort and hopefully stop them chewing enough to damage the skin, while you get to the vet. Also comforts a skin allergy flare-up.

Lectade sachet in case of a bit of the runs.

As you say, no replacement for a vet but they definitely tide you over on the way there. :)

Edited June 8, 2015 by Powerlegs

[Better Late]

And if you have anything like chlorsig (eye ointment for a scratch on the eye) which may have been subscribed to you before.

Sadly, I do! And will for a long time, so I suppose its a blessing in disguise. I also have Refresh Night Time gel (formerly Lacrilube), ingredients are liquid paraffin (42.5%) and soft white paraffin (57.3%) - would this be safe to use too?

Edited June 8, 2015 by Better Late

[_PL_]

And if you have anything like chlorsig (eye ointment for a scratch on the eye) which may have been subscribed to you before.

Sadly, I do! And will for a long time, so I suppose its a blessing in disguise. I also have Refresh Night Time gel (previous name escapes me) but its two small white tubes with a black lid, ingredients are liquid paraffin (42.5%) and soft white paraffin (57.3%) - would this be safe to use too?

Any of the non medicated eye lubricant containing plain old wool fat or paraffin is completely safe. Ointment is very thick though so if you're doing a combination you need to leave a 15-20 min gap between chlorsig first then the lubricant after.

It does blur the vision for quite a long time so if that's a problem go for the eye gel rather than eye ointment. What you're trying to do is hold back irritation and ulcer of the scratch.

Give the nearest clinic a bell, tell them what you have in your kit and they'll give you the yes or no. :) When you get there they can do the dye test.

[Stressmagnet]

Purple Spray! Can't remember what it's called but it's a spray on antiseptic that also keeps flies etc off the wound.

[tdierikx]

I have enough bandaging material to make up a Robert Jones cast if needed... lol!

T.

[_PL_]

Purple Spray! Can't remember what it's called but it's a spray on antiseptic that also keeps flies etc off the wound.

Ooh forgot about that one!

Cetrigen.

:laugh: And spray outside, with gloves on, and let it dry properly. Unless you want stain everywhere! Or maybe that's just me being uncoordinated.

[_PL_]

I have enough bandaging material to make up a Robert Jones cast if needed... lol!

T.

I'm totally crap at bandaging. Love the Vetwrap to put over it though.

[CHA]

And if you are in the country areas be very very careful of baits put down for foxes etc.

[Maddy]

Hydrogen peroxide - food grade 3% - To induce vomiting or to clean wounds.

Tweezers - blunt and sharp tipped - For removing foreign bodies and cleaning wounds of debris.

Safety scissors - For cutting away fur, etc.

Digital thermometer - Ideally, obtain a regular temperature and record it (and keep with the kit) for comparing in the event of hyperthermia, etc.

Syringes - At least two (and needles) - For administering medications or injecting fluids

Eye dropper - For flushing out eyes/ears/nose or cleaning wounds.

Safety pins - For holding temporary dressings in place, securing strappings, etc.

Disposable gloves (sterile) – At least two pairs

Cotton thread and sewing needle - For stitching wounds that require immediate attention.

Adhesive tape - For taping dressings in place, taping tail or injured ears down to prevent further damage, etc.

Towelling - To soak up blood/water or to pad dressings.

Sterile non-stick pads - For dressing smaller wounds.

Eye pads - For eye injuries (to prevent dog rubbing at eyes)

Cotton gauze pads - For packing dressings

Vetwrap or similar cohesive bandage - For strapping dressings in place or strapping

Cotton triangular bandage - For dressing larger wounds. Can also be used for tourniquets.

Cotton balls and swabs - For cleaning wounds, applying disinfectants.

Prepared F10 solution - For cleaning equipment prior to use and disinfecting after use.

Prepared iodine solution - For cleaning wounds.

Sterile eye wash - For flushing out eyes or open wounds.

Alcohol wipes - For wiping down equipment, cleaning hands and swapping skin (unbroken skin only).

Non-alcohol antiseptic wipes - For cleaning hands or around broken skin.

Styptic powder - To stem minor bleeding (cut quicks in claws, etc.)

Sterile saline solution - For cleaning wounds, flushing out deeper wounds, etc.

Tick remover - For removing ticks without destroying the body (needed for identification).

Stitch cutter - For removing stitches. Can also be used with tweezers to remove foreign bodies.

Dental scaler - For cleaning teeth and to aid in the removal of foreign bodies caught in the gums, etc. (grass seeds, etc.)

Yard muzzle - To prevent the dog from biting if injured or scared. Yard muzzles also allow the dog to pant freely or open their mouths widely enough to vomit (unlike nylon muzzles).

Short lead - To restrain the dog to prevent further injury.

Zip lock bags - For collecting samples to take to vet (vomit, parasites, etc.)

Bottled water - For rehydrating dogs suffering heatstroke, etc. Cleaning away larger amounts of vomit or blood.

Pawpaw ointment - For treating minor grazes or skin irritation.

Paraffin oil - For treating constipation, etc.

Small flashlight - For checking inside of ears, inside mouth, etc.

Vaseline - To lubricate thermometer or to apply to cracked paws to prevent further damage.

Baby wipes (or F10 wipes) - Cleaning fur, cleaning up after wound treatment.

Hand sanitiser - Cleaning hands before and after wound treatments.

Recharge sachets (or human equivalent) - Add to water to aid in rehydrating overheated or stressed dogs.

Nutrigel - High-fat product, can be used short-term in stressed dogs that won’t eat.

Instant cool pack - For sprains, etc. Can also be used to assist in the treatment of hyperthermia.

Instant heat pack - For sprains, etc. Can also be used to treat dogs suffering hypothermia.

Thermal sheet - For preventing further heat loss in case of shock or hypothermia.

[_PL_]

Awesome list Maddy!

[Maddy]

Awesome list Maddy!

It was from my greyhound first aid book that I sent you a while back :p I just copy/pasted because I'm a bit lazy.

[HazyWal]

Well I can tell you something for nothing I aint sewing up a wound with needle and cotton for love nor money

Mine's pretty average...

Vet Wrap

Sticky plaster

Gauze pads

Neocort

Betadine Ointment

Ungvita ointment

No lick stuff (don't know what it's called I buy it from the vet)

...and the best invention since sliced bread...Solugel.

Edited June 9, 2015 by HazyWal

[HazyWal]

And if you have anything like chlorsig (eye ointment for a scratch on the eye) which may have been subscribed to you before.

Sadly, I do! And will for a long time, so I suppose its a blessing in disguise. I also have Refresh Night Time gel (formerly Lacrilube), ingredients are liquid paraffin (42.5%) and soft white paraffin (57.3%) - would this be safe to use too?

So I'm sure you'd know that Chlorsig is useless after 4 weeks once opened. I suffer from styes and use it regularly, it is just available over the counter at the chemist.

[Chequeredblackdog]

Just a quick question- I would like to keep a more comprehensive first aid kit for my dogs, but It wouldn't be of any use unless I can leave it in my car. I worry about the temperatures that the kit will be subjected too, seeing as most medication/ treatments etc have a 'store under 30oC'

Where do you keep your kit? Or Does any one have any other suggestions?

[Maddy]

Well I can tell you something for nothing I aint sewing up a wound with needle and cotton for love nor money

Mine's pretty average...

Vet Wrap

Sticky plaster

Gauze pads

Neocort

Betadine Ointment

Ungvita ointment

No lick stuff (don't know what it's called I buy it from the vet)

...and the best invention since sliced bread...Solugel.

They're definitely "last resort" items and personally, I've never had to do it (my dogs have been considerate enough to have their accidents/fights at home, which is close to the vet) but you never know. I don't have actual cotton in mine though, I got disposable packs that come with non-soluble suture material and curved needles.

Same with bloat kits, really. If things are bad enough that you're having to use one, things are bad enough that you have nothing to lose.

[Better Late]

And if you have anything like chlorsig (eye ointment for a scratch on the eye) which may have been subscribed to you before.

Sadly, I do! And will for a long time, so I suppose its a blessing in disguise. I also have Refresh Night Time gel (formerly Lacrilube), ingredients are liquid paraffin (42.5%) and soft white paraffin (57.3%) - would this be safe to use too?

So I'm sure you'd know that Chlorsig is useless after 4 weeks once opened. I suffer from styes and use it regularly, it is just available over the counter at the chemist.

Yeah, I always date mine and get a new one once I'm about three and a half weeks post opening. Learnt that lesson the hard way!

[persephone]

skin stapler

betadine

purple spray (cetrigen)

bandages

scissors

saline solution

gastrolyte

glucodin tabs

carb soda .

[Willowlane]

Eye wash. A couple of saline things from the chemist. One of the dog-safe antihistamines for bee sting. I'll find the dose chart but I'm sure dolers will know it. And if you have anything like chlorsig (eye ointment for a scratch on the eye) which may have been subscribed to you before.Neocort (cortisone cream for itchy bites) they give the dog a little comfort and hopefully stop them chewing enough to damage the skin, while you get to the vet. Also comforts a skin allergy flare-up.Lectade sachet in case of a bit of the runs.As you say, no replacement for a vet but they definitely tide you over on the way there. :)

Can you recommend a dog-safe antihistamine and where can you buy neocourt from Powerlegs :)

Hydrogen peroxide - food grade 3% - To induce vomiting or to clean wounds.Tweezers - blunt and sharp tipped - For removing foreign bodies and cleaning wounds of debris.Safety scissors - For cutting away fur, etc.Digital thermometer - Ideally, obtain a regular temperature and record it (and keep with the kit) for comparing in the event of hyperthermia, etc.Syringes - At least two (and needles) - For administering medications or injecting fluidsEye dropper - For flushing out eyes/ears/nose or cleaning wounds.Safety pins - For holding temporary dressings in place, securing strappings, etc.Disposable gloves (sterile) – At least two pairsCotton thread and sewing needle - For stitching wounds that require immediate attention.Adhesive tape - For taping dressings in place, taping tail or injured ears down to prevent further damage, etc.Towelling - To soak up blood/water or to pad dressings.Sterile non-stick pads - For dressing smaller wounds.Eye pads - For eye injuries (to prevent dog rubbing at eyes)Cotton gauze pads - For packing dressingsVetwrap or similar cohesive bandage - For strapping dressings in place or strapping Cotton triangular bandage - For dressing larger wounds. Can also be used for tourniquets.Cotton balls and swabs - For cleaning wounds, applying disinfectants.Prepared F10 solution - For cleaning equipment prior to use and disinfecting after use.Prepared iodine solution - For cleaning wounds.Sterile eye wash - For flushing out eyes or open wounds.Alcohol wipes - For wiping down equipment, cleaning hands and swapping skin (unbroken skin only).Non-alcohol antiseptic wipes - For cleaning hands or around broken skin.Styptic powder - To stem minor bleeding (cut quicks in claws, etc.)Sterile saline solution - For cleaning wounds, flushing out deeper wounds, etc.Tick remover - For removing ticks without destroying the body (needed for identification).Stitch cutter - For removing stitches. Can also be used with tweezers to remove foreign bodies.Dental scaler - For cleaning teeth and to aid in the removal of foreign bodies caught in the gums, etc. (grass seeds, etc.)Yard muzzle - To prevent the dog from biting if injured or scared. Yard muzzles also allow the dog to pant freely or open their mouths widely enough to vomit (unlike nylon muzzles).Short lead - To restrain the dog to prevent further injury.Zip lock bags - For collecting samples to take to vet (vomit, parasites, etc.) Bottled water - For rehydrating dogs suffering heatstroke, etc. Cleaning away larger amounts of vomit or blood.Pawpaw ointment - For treating minor grazes or skin irritation.Paraffin oil - For treating constipation, etc.Small flashlight - For checking inside of ears, inside mouth, etc.Vaseline - To lubricate thermometer or to apply to cracked paws to prevent further damage.Baby wipes (or F10 wipes) - Cleaning fur, cleaning up after wound treatment.Hand sanitiser - Cleaning hands before and after wound treatments.Recharge sachets (or human equivalent) - Add to water to aid in rehydrating overheated or stressed dogs.Nutrigel - High-fat product, can be used short-term in stressed dogs that won’t eat.Instant cool pack - For sprains, etc. Can also be used to assist in the treatment of hyperthermia.Instant heat pack - For sprains, etc. Can also be used to treat dogs suffering hypothermia. Thermal sheet - For preventing further heat loss in case of shock or hypothermia.

Thankyou for such an extensive list Maddy. A few questions

1. Where is the best and cheapest place to buy this stuff?

2. can you by things like Styptic powder and hydrogen peroxide over the counter?

3. What is F10 solution?

Well I can tell you something for nothing I aint sewing up a wound with needle and cotton for love nor money Mine's pretty average...Vet WrapSticky plasterGauze padsNeocortBetadine OintmentUngvita ointmentNo lick stuff (don't know what it's called I buy it from the vet)...and the best invention since sliced bread...Solugel.

A few questions HazyWal

1. What is Ungvita ointment, what is it used for and where can I buy it from?

2. Also what is Solugel, what is it used for and where can I buy it from?

skin staplerbetadinepurple spray (cetrigen)bandagesscissorssaline solutiongastrolyteglucodin tabscarb soda .

Hi Persephone, just wondering what glucodin tablets are, what they do and where I can get them from. Also what the carb sode does?

Lastly I too wondered how to store the kit when temperates go over 30degrees? What does everyone else do?

[Maddy]

Thankyou for such an extensive list Maddy. A few questions

1. Where is the best and cheapest place to buy this stuff?

2. can you by things like Styptic powder and hydrogen peroxide over the counter?

3. What is F10 solution?

Chemists will sell hydrogen peroxide but you can also buy it online. Make sure it is food grade.

Styptic powder (or pencil) can be gotten from chemists and some pet shops but again, can also be bought online (and generally cheaper that way).

F10 is a veterinary disinfectant. I usually buy it online only. http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/Pet-Supplies-/1281/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=f10 It looks expensive but for a pet owner, a 200ml bottle should last you until it expires so it works out being very economical. It is more or less odourless (very slight smell) and can be used on most surfaces safely.