sheena Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Every week I make up a new challenge for my advanced Agility class & thought that maybe a few DOL's might like the challenge as well. So each week I will post the new challenge & you are free to give it a go if you have access to the equipment. I will start with the challenge I put up last Monday night as it was a real hit with the class & was a lot of fun to run. It had a Lap Turn (European Move) in the middle. As we have a trial coming up I tried to incorporate as many challenges as I could while still keeping it flowing & fun. My 'usually slow as a wet weekend girl' loved it & cleared each time. While 'rocket boy' who normally creeps off at the start, let me lead right out to the back tunnel. We have been doing a lot of proofing with his stays over the holidays, & it showed Have fun :) ETA 13 to 14 was a real challenge for some...secret was to keep the pressure on the dog to stay out with forward motion towards 14 which then put you in the position to block the tunnel. Some handlers instinctively took a short cut from 13 to 15 & pulled the dog off 14 & straight into the tunnel. Edited November 18, 2015 by sheena Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agility Dogs Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Nice! Looks like fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LisaCC Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Sheena, can I ask a question as a complete newb heading towards our first trial? What would be the best way to approach 4-7? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheena Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) Sheena, can I ask a question as a complete newb heading towards our first trial? What would be the best way to approach 4-7? You've got your dog on the left as it comes out of the tunnel, you send it over jump 4 to the tunnel, keeping your body pressure on ie arm extended till it enters the tunnel, but you don't go past 4 Once the dog is committed to the tunnel, you get to the landing side of 6 ( LH wing) & do a lap turn,(dog is now on your right) which if performed correctly, will bring the dog around to the take off side & flip it over to then perform 7 then it's a backcross at 8 to bring the dog into the weaves :) If your dog is no good at being sent (distance handled) &/or you don't know how to do a Lap Turn, then you would run with the dog at tunnel 5, front cross at the exit(dog now on your Right), & do a push behind at 6 ...front cross on landing side of 6 (dog now on your left) & perform 7 & 8 with left arm bringing him into the weaves. I try to do as little running as possible :laugh: ETA...you would not be getting this at your first trial. You wouldn't get this till you were up in the next levels :) Novice agility courses are pretty simple & most mistakes are made with knocking bars, missed contacts, refusals & the weaves or jumping off the table. You get given heaps of time...you just have to hope your dog is accurate. Just remember that about 90% of runs are either disqualified or not clear. It took me twelve months to get Cricket's three novice passes, mainly because I didn't want him to move up too quick :laugh: Edited March 6, 2015 by sheena Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 LisaCC - a little depends on your handling system and your dog's stride length. With H360 we aim to be ahead of our dogs as much as possible so I would probably approach it like this: 4: Jump cue (ie take it in full extension; dog on left) 5: Send to the tunnel and get out of there (don't baby sit); blind cross on tunnel exit 6: Na Na Na cue (ie take the back of the jump and wrap the upright tightly) 7: Jump cue; front cross to indicate turn 8: Sprinkler cue (ie collect and turn) Hope that helps :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheena Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 LisaCC - a little depends on your handling system and your dog's stride length. With H360 we aim to be ahead of our dogs as much as possible so I would probably approach it like this: 4: Jump cue (ie take it in full extension; dog on left) 5: Send to the tunnel and get out of there (don't baby sit); blind cross on tunnel exit 6: Na Na Na cue (ie take the back of the jump and wrap the upright tightly) 7: Jump cue; front cross to indicate turn 8: Sprinkler cue (ie collect and turn) Hope that helps :) Oh yes....I forgot about the blind cross. Yep you could do that instead of the front cross at the tunnel exit. I must try & practice my blinds more :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I used to be terrified of blinds but I made a conscious effort to practice them (in the correct situation) and now I see them on courses all the time. Great idea Sheena! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kavik Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Studying this :laugh: OK which side of 6 would be best? Tunnel side or broad jump side? I don't have any super fancy handling tools, but do have a backside of jump verbal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denali Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 LisaCC - a little depends on your handling system and your dog's stride length. With H360 we aim to be ahead of our dogs as much as possible so I would probably approach it like this: 4: Jump cue (ie take it in full extension; dog on left) 5: Send to the tunnel and get out of there (don't baby sit); blind cross on tunnel exit 6: Na Na Na cue (ie take the back of the jump and wrap the upright tightly) 7: Jump cue; front cross to indicate turn 8: Sprinkler cue (ie collect and turn) Hope that helps :) That is how i would have approached it also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) Studying this :laugh: OK which side of 6 would be best? Tunnel side or broad jump side? I don't have any super fancy handling tools, but do have a backside of jump verbal. When the dog comes out of the tunnel I have already blind crossed so the dog is on my right. Then my Na Na Na cue. And when I take off and the dog is chasing he is still on my right. Is that what you were asking? Edited March 6, 2015 by The Spotted Devil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheena Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Studying this :laugh: OK which side of 6 would be best? Tunnel side or broad jump side? I don't have any super fancy handling tools, but do have a backside of jump verbal. Assuming you mean to do object 6?.....I would be on the take off side of 6,(D/Walk side) ready to do a Lap Turn as soon as the dog came out of the tunnel.Or if you are not doing Lap Turns, then as TSD says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kavik Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I don't do blind crosses with this dog :laugh:, so would be doing a front cross after tunnel. So everyone thinks the near side of 6. I also see a way of doing it with dog on left the whole time, going around the other upright of 6, just not sure if it is economical to do so of which is the best path. My main issue is 7 and 8 . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Sheena can you explain the Lap Turn please? I could easily be on the take off side of obstacle 6 (threadle cue) but that would put me behind which is not ideal in this handling system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LisaCC Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Ahhh thanks guys! I read those on my laptop while looking at the course on my iPad We are still working on weaves and contacts so planning on attempting Novice jumping at my clubs trial coming up. My instructor hates blind crosses with a passion, thinking of heading to the next town to get some privates by someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) I don't do blind crosses with this dog :laugh:, so would be doing a front cross after tunnel. So everyone thinks the near side of 6. I also see a way of doing it with dog on left the whole time, going around the other upright of 6, just not sure if it is economical to do so of which is the best path. My main issue is 7 and 8 . . . The only time we do blinds is when the dog can't actually see us...in the tunnel counts...would that change things for you? The problem with having the dog on your left at 6 is that you would be pushing the dog to 7 rather than pulling them. It might work if you were miles in front. Otherwise front cross to 8 to indicate the turn. Edited March 6, 2015 by The Spotted Devil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kavik Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) With my young dog I will probably do some blinds (following Shape Up Dogs similar to H360) but I am not doing them at all with Kaos, this is his last year competing so don't want to change things. I could do it with a front cross before 6. I am just wondering if it is a nicer line from the other side of 6, taking the far upright? It is longer than taking the other way, but does it set the dog up on a better line for 7-8 with less handling needed there? For this I am thinking dog on left the whole time, backside of 6 with a post turn. Edited March 6, 2015 by Kavik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheena Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) Sheena can you explain the Lap Turn please? I could easily be on the take off side of obstacle 6 (threadle cue) but that would put me behind which is not ideal in this handling system. I've done a PDF File up on how to train the Lap Turn but you would need to PM me your email address, so I could send it to you. But basically, as the dog is coming out of the tunnel, you are behind the jump & left of the wing closest to the tunnel facing your dog. You cue him to come to your right hand as if holding a treat bringing him around the wing, then you flip your hand over & that puts him over the jump. All the time you are facing forward ready to race to the next jump. It does require a bit of training, but if you can do Lap Turns, then you don't have to run so far :laugh: Edited March 6, 2015 by sheena Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Yes I think it depends whether you have a really independent verbal AND whether you can out run them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kavik Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I think the thing I am struggling with is 7 - 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Sheena can you explain the Lap Turn please? I could easily be on the take off side of obstacle 6 (threadle cue) but that would put me behind which is not ideal in this handling system. I've done a PDF File up on how to train the Lap Turn but you would need to PM me your email address, so I could send it to you. But basically, as the dog is coming out of the tunnel, you are behind the jump & left of the wing closest to the tunnel facing your dog. You cue him to come to your right hand as if holding a treat bringing him around the wing, then you flip your hand over & that puts him over the jump. All the time you are facing forward ready to race to the next jump. It does require a bit of training, but if you can do Lap Turns, then you don't have to run so far :laugh: Ah thanks - that's similar to H360 Threadle - but it would put me behind unnecessarily I think which isn't ideal for this system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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