Jump to content

Recommendations For A Small Camera With Video


CrazyCresties
 Share

Recommended Posts

With cameras I think people tend to lump capturing 'action/sports' all in one category. What I've found is dogs are perhaps near the pinnacle (in difficulty) for the camera and user. I also have an X-T1 and while it's a great camera, however with dogs in action I struggle at times, it's 8fps mode is used lots to get keepers. However I've also used it for motorports (cars, track bikes, dirt bikes, mx bikes) and other action and can do much better. People running around etc, no problem. Birds even seem easier (well for the camera). I've put it down to the whole 'bobbing' up and down thing that dogs do when running, add that they change direction so much too. It's easy to 'shoot' over/past them due to one's focus point ideally being the head etc.

With regards to other cameras a mate has the Sony a6000 (also and APS-C based ILC). Cheaper body than the X-T1 and was something I was considering instead of the X-T1. It's tracking and focus ability talked about lots (which was the same with the X-T1 originally). We've played with each others camera a bit and to be honest not a single thing about it has made me doubt the X-T1 purchase (which is something I was concerned/thinking might happen). Actually using near bang on similar lenses of cost, speed and reach (each systems cheap bottom end tele zooms) the X-T1 easily had it covered focusing static in low light. Action is always harder to test. Standup Jetski's on the water the X-T1 did better with either user but I've yet to test back to back with dogs. His in China with it at the moment, but when he gets back I'm definitely going to borrow it and try and setup some consistent tests. So far however focusing wise it hasn't bettered the X-T1, despite that review. Dogs might be different story, though I don't think his had much luck shooting his staffy with it. (doesn't persist as much as I do though haha)

So the a6000 also might be a consideration, lens selection and quality vs cost is the draw back that kept me away from this Sony system, which mainly stopped me buying into it. If you aren't shopping right this moment I might be able to update you in a little bit on how the X-T1 vs a6000 go specifically with dogs.

The GH4 is a decent thing, if video is key than this is the king. X-T1 video isn't it's strong point, but is plenty usable for capture fun with ones dogs and other things. GH4 if you want pro level video. X-T1 example of mate at Skidpan

What steered me away from M4/3 was smaller sensor size, making it a bit trickier to to get shallow DOF etc.

As for P&S', could be an option but I haven't tried to use them with dogs in action though. Canon S120 is a good little camera, Sony RX100 also, capable of quality photos. Either probably doesn't have the reach needed, so a 'super zoom' type P&S is probably needed? Might drop quality and lens speed though.

Edited by Spoony
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it's probably not ideal for your situation, but my Olympus Tough (TG2) has almost no shutter lag. I was really surprised! I only ever use it outside though and the focus can be hit and miss (because I tend to shoot at f2 - ha).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Spoony, very useful - I'd be interested in your X-T1 vs a6000 canine shoot out results :) I'm looking for something for small, light and easy to take to the beach for dogs walks. I'll still have my 7D for other stuff, but as this is just for snap shots/video I'm not expecting the same quality/performance as from my 7D.

Thanks huga, I'll check that one out too.

I might be after the impossible anyway as I'm tying to catch this little monster :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a very confident answer to this...

Sony DSC-RX100.

It's arguably the best in class point 'n' shoot, 20MP, and excellent ISO capability. If you know what you're doing you can get shots as good as you can with a DLSR. I have a Canon 550D but use the Sony most of the time because it's so convenient. The Mk1 might suit you and it's pretty cheap 2nd hand.

Here's a couple of samples, but these have been uploaded through lossy Facebook, and keep in mind these are low light shots...

10574341_350224938463292_7986491848960248574_n.jpg?oh=92f4ea403df352f2465ff9c1688f5303&oe=5468920C&__gda__=1417594832_61a13960f34902972926147bd1fec8d0

10505058_10152081311726923_3926750842443903061_o.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should find the better mirrorless will easily match the 7D in outright image quality, systems such as fuji's X have glass that is often compared to L series canon stuff also in quality also. The AF systems for motion can be lagging though vs the very established SLR system. I'm keen to now to see how a6000 stacks up, I'd love a 7D to compare also but don't know anyone with one. I could borrow a 50D or 700D but I know it would be lacking somewhat to the 7D in this regard. (would still be interesting how they compare to the mirrorless systems though). From what I've read the latest mirrorless bodys have certainly closed the gap a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Snook, having a some zoom/reach would certainly help you, getting a bit of space between yourself and the dog really does help a fair bit. Obviously more time for yourself and the camera to react. I think also different lenses apparently work quicker/better to with the C-AF. I'm very keen to see how the 50-140 2.8 is in this regards. I'm thinking FujiFilm surely would be doing a fair bit of testing (and some development, talk of updated firmware with improvements) with that lens + the X-T1.

Edited by Spoony
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Did a bit of a comparison of the X-T1 and the a6000 yesterday using Striker as the moving target.

The lenses were fairly similar cheap entry jobbies, 50-230 4.5 - 6.7 on the X-T1 and 50-210 4.5 - 6.3 on the a6000.

Firstly, despite the claims of many reviews and what is still stated on FujiFilms own website, with regards to subject tracking, in my opinion it does not. Yes it has C-AF and can continually follow focus on a moving subject, but that requires you to keep that subject pretty good in the selected focus area.

However statements like this to me indicate otherwise? " Using phase-detection autofocus, combined with high-speed subject predictive, the AF accurately follows your subject through the frame, even at the highest continuous shooting speed of 8.0 frames/sec." to me claims the subject is tracked (or followed) i. Already had this argument on Fanboy forums haha.

Anyways the a6000 can actually track. My mate was not experienced or had really used the camera in this way, but I was able to work out how to first identify the subject (which is a bit fiddly and annoying) and it would box it and then do it's best to keep tracking (boxed) it across the frame.

So how does this all work in use. Tried two different setups, dog running straight on, and dog running across at and angle (eventually completely side on)

Straight on the both struggle, and I do wonder if most cameras will with dogs. The head/eyes you want in focus but the body often is the hit point. IF one keeps the X-T1 on spot it seems better than the a6000 at getting some sharp keepers. So it's a little more work keeping on point but can get better results.

The same can be said at the other angle, IF i was able to keep Striker in the focus area it did well, had a number of pin sharp hits where the a6000 had lots 'in focus' (or very close to) but not as sharp.

Where the a6000 helps is the subject and move back and forward in the frame as my lack of ability tries to follow the crazy little nut, and generally keep reasonable focus during this (not pin sharp though, maybe part of all this is better optics with the Fuji too? ) . It did how ever have a moment where he was 'boxed/tracked' but focus was so far off he was beautiful bokeh blob! lol.

The X-T1 on the other hand with the side/front angle shots if I lost him panning could back focus on something else, but seemed to do pretty good at snapping back to focus when I got my panning skills back together.

Testing was far from scientific as you'd imagine, human error and dog in consistency doesn't make it easy. Overall I don't think the a6000 is any betterr bar the tracking ability. It does have more focus options for constant focus as you'd imagine with these abilities.

In single point focus X-T1 is quicker as the light drops than the a6000, in bright light nothing in it.

If Fuji added at least some tracking ability in firmware coming out later this year I'd say it would possibly be better.

It's better (but also more expensive) in other areas, ie the EVF is leagues ahead of the a6000, the back screen is a bit better also. Less menu diving due to so many controls on hand is certainly a better thing too.

The Samsung NX1 is looking like it's going clean up the mirrorless market with regards to focus ability and quite a few other things, sensor and processor tech well ahead of the others (and the includes DSLRS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...