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Susan Garrett Recallers Online Course


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Hi Kavik - yes.

My favourite recallers story over the years has been about the whippet that would have died without it...

PS I've not been entirely successful at training evil hound to recall immediately but she's so much better than when I first signed up. And I haven't been as diligent as Kavik in doing all the exercises. Or all the other stuff ie you get out what you put in and it's no good being all theory based - have to engage brain and solve problems in front of you.

One problem me and the dog are still working on and the coaching calls are encouraging - ie they always have a new way of looking at it and something new to try (cos my hound does not have the foundation an SG puppy has - so she does things very differently)...

Persistence and dealing with frustration. Exactly what Leah82 is describing.

You can increase your dog's tolerance to frustration and increase their persistence. It's a little more difficult to increase your own, but persisting and getting a break through brings much joy. "I never thought we could do that - wow" joy.

Edited by Mrs Rusty Bucket
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ipads and youtube don't always get along - and there has been a recent update to adobe flash - so you might want to see if downloading that to the ipad helps.

I think it's something to do with apple video being "quick time", so they just make it painful for any other system.

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Watched the 3rd promotional video - very interesting and covered a lot of points and areas where I have problems (such as DWDH - don't wanna don't hafta) - great to see her work through it with a different dog.

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Thanks for putting this up Leah, I have now signed up too :)

Its a bit confusing about how to actually join Recallers. I kept coming across a link to page that was no longer working. Bit odd.

I think I'll just sign up for the videos and see where that takes us :)

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has anyone been trying their hand at the basic it's yer choice stuff?

Mine are getting the hang of it but they seem to prefer to lie down rather than step back when they realise they aren't going to be able to take the food off me. Not sure if I should be rewarding this or not, I have been because I have not idea how to get them to choose to step back

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has anyone been trying their hand at the basic it's yer choice stuff?

Mine are getting the hang of it but they seem to prefer to lie down rather than step back when they realise they aren't going to be able to take the food off me. Not sure if I should be rewarding this or not, I have been because I have not idea how to get them to choose to step back

I use it with my own dogs and hundreds of others….from puppies to shelter dogs. The way I have done it is to not reward a specific behaviour, that is, don't always reward a drop or a sit or a step backwards so they understand that you are not rewarding the behaviour per se but their choice NOT to mug your hand. If they keep offering the same behaviour, simply don't reward it and they will tend to try something else. It may also help to move on and put the treats on the floor to trigger a different behaviour. I hope that helps :)

Edited by The Spotted Devil
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has anyone been trying their hand at the basic it's yer choice stuff?

Mine are getting the hang of it but they seem to prefer to lie down rather than step back when they realise they aren't going to be able to take the food off me. Not sure if I should be rewarding this or not, I have been because I have not idea how to get them to choose to step back

I use it with my own dogs and hundreds of others….from puppies to shelter dogs. The way I have done it is to not reward a specific behaviour, that is, don't always reward a drop or a sit or a step backwards so they understand that you are not rewarding the behaviour per se but their choice NOT to mug your hand. If they keep offering the same behaviour, simply don't reward it and they will tend to try something else. It may also help to move on and put the treats on the floor to trigger a different behaviour. I hope that helps :)

Yeah I assumed I was rewarding the metal state or decision rather than a particular action. Thanks for confirming TSD

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There's a million ways to increase the challenge of IYC.

Essentially you want to end up with a dog that will work next to and ignore an open tin of food. Even yummy food.

I can leave porridge on the coffee table in the lounge and go out to the kitchen and get a coffee and come back and she will just be sitting there looking at it - or even ignoring it completely.

But she likes to check the kitchen counter for crumbs after I come back with my coffee - ie the message that it's not ok to do that, has not sunk in. The way we are getting there - is to stop her from the "habit" of going back there and checking. ie I have to stop the air sniffing around the counter, and probably the floor vaccuumming too. Too much reward in it.

So ways to up the challenge...

point or tap the food, wave it round, throw it round - (release - geddit/find it).

ie the dog should still choose to wait if you tap the food.

LOH tried to use Frosty to demonstrate greedy dog at her course last year. She tried Frosty out the night before the demo - and Frosty thought - oooh tapping I can have - and learned inside about 10 seconds that it was the IYC game. So next day - she wouldn't try to steal the food, just sat there looking.

So when it was my turn to play the game - I had to figure out ways to increase the challenge.

So if it's stalled out - end the session for now or change something. Any one thing. Change. Eg cookies from hand to cookies on floor - is changing something. Put the cookies on the counter (changing something else), cookies in the bag, cookies on the coffee table, cookies on the floor loose, cookies on a paw or head (parlor trick) cookies on the ground outside.

There's a beauty - cookies on the ground outside. Cos Frosty loves to forage - she figures anything in the grass is fair game...

And then you do IYC with stay or go, or jumping on the kids or being polite at the front door or being nice to brother's dog at lunch (Frosty got to sit out lunch in the car).

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How would this help competitive obedience rather than agility? Any feedback welcome!

Great for relationship building, as megan said. These games can be part of your warm up, to get your dog excited and ready to go into the ring, or your between exercises rewards in the ring. There are games for building value for heel position (reinforcement zone), stays, self control, test the understanding of your verbal cues for your basic positions of stand, sit, drop.

There is also going to be a section on how to build your own games and get input from others, so like minded obedience people can come up with specific to obedience games as well.

Edited by Kavik
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Re-inforcement zone - heel work...

That's an example - you get lots more if you put Reinforcement Zone or Susan Garrett RZ into youtube search.

This is Susan working it with Feature

Recallers also has a number of games that "build value" for stays.

SG trains - "control position" eg If the dog is in a sit/stand/drop - it doesn't move until it's given a release word. Unfortunately I found out about this after I'd taught Frosty "Wait" or "Stay". I've quit using "stay" - just use "Wait" now.

The reliability of the Stay comes from trying to fake the dog out with distractions ie "test the value" or "test the understanding".

So my dog will stay if another dog comes and play bows at her and then sits on her. Probably won't stay if a crow flies close. But will stay if there are magpies walking by and we really don't like magpies. Magpies are easier to include as distractions than crows. Especially at my dog club where you can hand feed the local magpies.

So there's a lot in recallers for obedience competitors. There is a bit of "foundation" for agility trainers but no jumps or agilty equipment or stuff like that. It's hard to do agility without a reliable stay and a reliable recall.

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