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Clicker Training, A Good Idea?


airlock
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You can only build on what the dog has there genetically to harness, but it doesn't need to be super high drive dog to respond well to rewards/drive work.

However, IMO if you want to be competitive you are best off seeking a dog with superior genetics and temperament, Daisy can still work in drive but her actual drive "tank" is small so she could never work as hard or as long as our Malinois. There is a reason most competitors select high drive working breeds. That doesn't mean other dogs are write offs or not worth the effort :)

Edited by huski
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However, IMO if you want to be competitive you are best off seeking a dog with superior genetics and temperament, Daisy can still work in drive but her actual drive "tank" is small so she could never work as hard or as long as our Malinois. There is a reason most competitors select high drive working breeds. That doesn't mean other dogs are write offs or not worth the effort

Exactly. If you know what you are after and want to do specific sports then yes you will choose a puppy/dog you believe will give you the best chance at succeeding in that area - that makes ense. Why train harder than you have to???

I have one dog that will work and work well but won't work for as long and as hard, the other would work until he dropped from exhaustion - strange to some since they are Whippets - the baby I chose was the one who to me showed the temperment most like his father so I hope he too would work until he dropped.

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You can only build on what the dog has there genetically to harness, but it doesn't need to be super high drive dog to respond well to rewards/drive work.

However, IMO if you want to be competitive you are best off seeking a dog with superior genetics and temperament, Daisy can still work in drive but her actual drive "tank" is small so she could never work as hard or as long as our Malinois. There is a reason most competitors select high drive working breeds. That doesn't mean other dogs are write offs or not worth the effort :)

Correct absolutely :thumbsup:

I really think it's a bit rich to say that Beagles would be well trainable in Obedience.

If they were well trainable in obedience why aren't they there? Why do they have a reputation for being difficult to train?

Well, what I have seen of them in detection roles and obedience in that role, there are pretty good :D

Out of interest, what type of work and/or competition do you train for?

Protection/security/apprehension, tracking/search and rescue

As the majority of us are not professionals nor do our dogs 'work' for a living, we don't 'wash out' or rehome dogs which prove more challenging, or don't have as much drive, or are independent, or more easily distracted, or motion sensitive etc. Sure I try to do my research on breeders, bloodlines etc but in the end you work with the dog you have, they all provide challenges.

Of course we work with what we have, I am not suggesting that we don't, but my point was in regard to washouts and professional trainers selling programs based on their own dogs performances....they are selling training programs not dogs to be mindful of....breeder will say they bred an awesome dog, trainer will say their training is awesome...what's the truth :shrug:

What I was talking about from the onset of this discussion to get the best performance out of what you have what ever that may be, there is no one training program that will work equally as well on every dog. I have seen in commercial training and clubs, high drive dogs dangling on choke chains for misbehaviour because the club can't use drive to train, same as clubs with low drive dogs applying high drive programs etc etc.....a lot of trainers out there working methods not training dogs is what I am getting at.....what method or training tools are best depends on the dog and owner. Just from my own experience with different dogs, I have used as many prong collars as I have used treat or toy reward exclusively, it just depends??.

One of mine was trained in tracking a lot with an ecollar.....the other is no good on an ecollar at all, he get's aggressive and looses drive for the scent.......so if someone asked me if an ecollar is good for tracking......it may be depending on the dog, it may not either :)

Edited by Santo66
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im new to this subject :s

If you want to know more about clicker training, then ask away. Lots of us here are quite passionate about it & only too willing to help a newbie discover the fun of clicker training with their dog :)

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thanks for all the replies guys, the debate has been really quite interesting and given us a lot to think about.

in the end we missed out on puppy kindergarten as his kennel cough didn't clear up quite in time and we didn't want to risk spreading it around.

i've been off work with a temporary arthritis problem (not what you expect at 23) so have had Alfie all to my self.

I have decided to go down the clicker training route as he really seems to respond very well to it in the house and he has already mastered most of the basics witch is great.

He is however still pretty bad under distraction, cats, toads and other dogs are just a complete shut off switch for him at this point so i'm going to try using a long training lead to practice long distance recall and swap his liver treats for some dog mince to see if a little guidance and higher value rewards do the trick.

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thanks for all the replies guys, the debate has been really quite interesting and given us a lot to think about.

in the end we missed out on puppy kindergarten as his kennel cough didn't clear up quite in time and we didn't want to risk spreading it around.

i've been off work with a temporary arthritis problem (not what you expect at 23) so have had Alfie all to my self.

I have decided to go down the clicker training route as he really seems to respond very well to it in the house and he has already mastered most of the basics witch is great.

He is however still pretty bad under distraction, cats, toads and other dogs are just a complete shut off switch for him at this point so i'm going to try using a long training lead to practice long distance recall and swap his liver treats for some dog mince to see if a little guidance and higher value rewards do the trick.

Definitely up the food value and stick to your criteria - positive reinforcement does not equal permissive! Set him up in a low distraction environment - call once (only!!!), reward if he comes, go and get him if he doesn't. Add distractions slowly. It's NORMAL for them to be distracted so don't get disheartened :)

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Agree...if you are teaching him something new then start off in a distraction free environment & then gradually introduce the distractions at a distance. If you are teaching him the recall, then have him on a lead close to you, call his name & AS SOON AS HE TURNS TO YOU (that's the important bit), click & throw him a treat. Then gradually increase your distance from him (on lead) & repeat. But the important thing to mark is his turning towards you. When you have this 90%, then you can wait till he is moving towards you before you click & throw the treat for him, then extend it to actually getting back to you before you click, then maybe you might like a sit as well. I would throw the treat away from me so he has to go get it, then before he turns, you call his name etc etc. Have fun :)

ETA...if he hasn't yet responded well to his name...play the "In Yer Face" game. Have him sit facing you & a handful of yummy treats...in rapid succession call his name & pop him a treat.

Edited by sheena
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he is a BABY ..and has LOTS to learn before he masters so many of those skills , like not paying attention to things ....

His brain is instinctively telling him to LOOK< EXPLORE>SMELL> TASTE>FEEL

be patient ... he has little concept yet, and his brain is growing and changing as you look!

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