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A Running Drop (down)


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I wouldn't want to do a recall and ask them to wait/drop straight out (or running between equipment, etc). Pretty sure that would confuse the heck out of my dog, or maybe she is just special. That's why I like the two food game, as you don't need to call them, they are already moving in one direction without a command to confuse them.

Its not to use while doing normal agility, but would be very handy for when running Strategic Pairs, but mainly want to teach it so I can get her to drop to stop her chasing something, treading on a snake, running in front of a car...lots of things which I hope never happen, but it would be good to have the command perfected, just in case. It makes it a lot easier when running Pairs, if you can get your dog to drop on course.

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It's not too confusing it's in fact part of dog most dog sports to do a command like drop during recall.

You're rewarding it that's why she's still doing it. Why reward for only a few steps, it's something you dont want at all and what is the point of a reward - to perpetuate the expression of a behavior. You can't extinguish what you reward.

Start only a few steps away, do a recall and say DROP. If the dog does not straight away, give a non reward marker like UH UH, and start the exercise again - no complience, no reward. Put parameters on what you want and aim for them straight away, the more small mistakes you accept and reward the more the dog will keep doing them.

Another thing as well is if the dog gets up for the clicker, just give the dog a 'good girl' finish the recall from the drop and reward when she returns.

Confusion occurs because the dog does not full understand what you want when you give a command. Make sure your dogs understand the commands and that you can have not conditioned the dog to just exhibit the command under certain circumstances (eg only drop when stationary, heeling only in forward motion etc) It's why when I teach all the school dogs commands we do them up on equipment, surfaces, owner in front/behind, moving, not moving etc. The dogs can easily do a drop/sit in motion because we teach them from the start you do it straight away (and I don't let people repeat commands)

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My dog has a perfect drop on recall but my point was, they need to be able to do a drop at a distance before you do it in the middle of a recall.

I'm more wary of confusing my dog than other people because she is super sensitive. If I gave her a no reward marker for not dropping fast enough I'd be likely to get a dog who just sat there and stared at me the next time I did a recall (shuts down, it's safer just to do nothing when you're confused).

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I just taught a super solid down in general, treat the second she hits the deck and practice in general life, she's bouncing around playing? "down" she hits the deck she gets a treat then carries on playing, out for a walk? leisurely walk "down", reward and carry on with the walk, she is so hyper in-tuned with my down commands that she will hit the deck instantly at the slightest cue in any situation or exercise you could think up.

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The dogs can easily do a drop/sit in motion because we teach them from the start you do it straight away (and I don't let people repeat commands)

Sorry to pick up on only one part of your reply. When not repeating commands do you wait until compliance and then reward or do you just move onto something else and try again with a single command after a few minutes?

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Sorry to pick up on only one part of your reply. When not repeating commands do you wait until compliance and then reward or do you just move onto something else and try again with a single command after a few minutes?

I cant see how moving on if they dont comply would teach the dog anything aside from "if I dont wanna, just ignore her" I wait for compliance(dog on leash so they cant just leave) when the know what the command means, I give the command and stare at them until they comply, the SECOND full compliance is achieved its a party. they learn soon enough that the faster they comply, the faster they get the reward.

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Sorry to pick up on only one part of your reply. When not repeating commands do you wait until compliance and then reward or do you just move onto something else and try again with a single command after a few minutes?

I teach by helping the dog with learning a new command, eg luring then phasing back the physical action and only rewarding when there is focus on the handler. You can teach speed as part of the learning phase too, and frankly if the dog is doing things slowly or staring at you like a twit I wouldn't make a party out of it. When the dog is asked to perform a command it understands and does not comply, I give an 'uh uh' which is the cue for a mistake has been made. It's not a punisher but a neutral sounding command that tells the dog 'try again', great for slow compliance or poor positioning. This way as soon as an error is made the dog knows what it is, and to try harder next time. I find it keeps the dogs motivated and even puppies will try harder to get that reward. If the dog is constantly making errors its the fault of the handler IMO, they've gone too far too fast or they have been rewarding (read that also as not fixing) problem behaviors.

I'm more wary of confusing my dog than other people because she is super sensitive. If I gave her a no reward marker for not dropping fast enough I'd be likely to get a dog who just sat there and stared at me the next time I did a recall (shuts down, it's safer just to do nothing when you're confused).

A non reward marker should not confuse the dog. If it is confusing the dog then it doesn't understand what you mean and you need to teach it. Get it up, get it moving and help it try again. Don't let a dog shut down and sit there, especially sensitive ones. If you have to make them get up and run with you to pep up again, do it. Revelling in ones own self made pity does not dog any favours.

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