See Saw (teeter) Preferred Performance

[sheena]

We have the wee saw in NSW but when we do ADAA comps we then have to be able to do the full size see saw. I think my preferred ideal performance would be to run to the end, ride it down & stay in a 4 on the board position before being released. Well that's what I am working on anyway :laugh: I don't like the 2 on 2 off position for the see saw because if it's not done correctly the board can lift & wack the dog under the tail .

Edited July 25, 2013 by sheena

[Podengo]

We have the wee saw in NSW but when we do ADAA comps we then have to be able to do the full size see saw. I think my preferred ideal performance would be to run to the end, ride it down & stay in a 4 on the board position before being released. Well that's what I am working on anyway :laugh: I don't like the 2 on 2 off position for the see saw because if it's not done correctly the board can lift & wack the dog under the tail .

I'm with you, want all 4 on the board... Thinking of training a down on the see saw.

[pie]

The weesaw is nation wide - it's an ANKC rule not just NSW

[sheena]

The weesaw is nation wide - it's an ANKC rule not just NSW

Ahhhh...that's interesting, I thought it was just a crazy NSW thing. Mind you, I think I am getting used to it & now probably prefer it to the full size board as far as impact on the dogs go. :)

[BCNut]

Agility newb here...can I ask what a 'WeeSaw' is?

[Kavik]

Agility newb here...can I ask what a 'WeeSaw' is?

The Weesaw is the nickname for the low height seesaw that is now in ANKC agility. The seesaw used to be about double that - the angle used to be the same as the dogwalk.

[Podengo]

Agility newb here...can I ask what a 'WeeSaw' is?

The Weesaw is the nickname for the low height seesaw that is now in ANKC agility. The seesaw used to be about double that - the angle used to be the same as the dogwalk.

We still use the big see saw in NZ, here are some photos for you BCnut

[megan_]

I wonder what position has the least impact on the dog's body? Riding it down in a drop maybe?

Even thought I would prefer Australia adopt more international rules, I quite like the weesaw because I have small dogs and I'm not keen on the impact to their joints when they come crashing down on the big-boy seesaw.

ETA: I've noticed that, with small dogs, even if they do 2o2o properly there is often kickback from the seesaw and their back legs go flying into the air. That can't be good for their bodies.

Edited July 24, 2013 by megan_

[Podengo]

I've noticed a lot of people with little dogs here train them to run to the end and drop, no 2o2o

[sheena]

I wonder what position has the least impact on the dog's body? Riding it down in a drop maybe?

Even thought I would prefer Australia adopt more international rules, I quite like the weesaw because I have small dogs and I'm not keen on the impact to their joints when they come crashing down on the big-boy seesaw.

ETA: I've noticed that, with small dogs, even if they do 2o2o properly there is often kickback from the seesaw and their back legs go flying into the air. That can't be good for their bodies.

I would only consider a 2o 2o position for a large dog. For a small dog I would have it running to the end, riding it down & staying 4 on the board till released.

[Sayreovi]

The weesaw here as well.

We do running contacts so she goes right to the end and rides it down, and then goes.

If needed I can ask her to wait till I release her but more often than not I don't :)

[J...]

ANKC Weesaw/wobbleboard/trip hazard here - both my adult dogs were trained on a full height seesaw but I don't often get access to either.

Ideally I'd like them to ride the board to the ground from the very end but both of them run to the tip point and then come into 2o2o, given the minimal extra time it takes I'll just deal with it. Both have awesome rear end awareness and rock back and don't have any issues with teeter whip, even with the full size seesaw.

I hate the weesaw, despite not having the ability to train it that easily due to lack of access. Too many very experienced dogs who don't respect it, plus it's not in your line of sight while running a course. I dread the day someone trips over the bloody thing, it won't be pretty.

I wouldn't ever do a 4otf with any contact equipment - there is insufficient criteria for a consistent contact performance plus there is the risk of the dog copping a knock from the SS/WS board if they are too close.

[The Spotted Devil]

2o/2o for Zig for everything - I worked hard to get him super confident on the full height see saw (poor equipment at trials spooked him badly) and then it was the wee saw. He still respects it - and, as he is very body sensitive and has reasonable rear end awareness, I've let him do what feels most comfortable. Em does a drop 2o/2o - I taught it as a nose touch stand but this seems to suit her and she's developed her own style. She has a different body shape which might explain it....concentrating on jumping rather than agility at the moment so not much contact training.

[sheena]

After a trial on the weekend, a couple of the dogs in my class have gone up a level & therefor now need to get serious about the weesaw. So I am going to take the whole class, including my own two dogs, back to mid foundation (not the wobble board stuff). I have been watching Jen Pinder's "Sizzling Seesaws", where she places the board up on two different height pause tables & has the dog running confidently along the board which has a 4 inch drop. She is using treats from the hand, but I thought using a target might be better & maybe randomly treat from the hand or the target at the end of the board. She also runs the dog the other way as well, so it is running uphill to a slight drop. When the dog is confident, she then increases the drop etc. I may have to use something different to the tables as it is only a weesaw :)

[Agility Dogs]

After a trial on the weekend, a couple of the dogs in my class have gone up a level & therefor now need to get serious about the weesaw. So I am going to take the whole class, including my own two dogs, back to mid foundation (not the wobble board stuff). I have been watching Jen Pinder's "Sizzling Seesaws", where she places the board up on two different height pause tables & has the dog running confidently along the board which has a 4 inch drop. She is using treats from the hand, but I thought using a target might be better & maybe randomly treat from the hand or the target at the end of the board. She also runs the dog the other way as well, so it is running uphill to a slight drop. When the dog is confident, she then increases the drop etc. I may have to use something different to the tables as it is only a weesaw :)

Good plan!!

Just wondering though - I think the plank between two tables more about the movement and having the dog confident striding along a moving plank/driving to the end than it is about actual see saw performance? ie: Once you get full speed along the tipping plank then it is time to move to the wee saw concept.

[sheena]

After a trial on the weekend, a couple of the dogs in my class have gone up a level & therefor now need to get serious about the weesaw. So I am going to take the whole class, including my own two dogs, back to mid foundation (not the wobble board stuff). I have been watching Jen Pinder's "Sizzling Seesaws", where she places the board up on two different height pause tables & has the dog running confidently along the board which has a 4 inch drop. She is using treats from the hand, but I thought using a target might be better & maybe randomly treat from the hand or the target at the end of the board. She also runs the dog the other way as well, so it is running uphill to a slight drop. When the dog is confident, she then increases the drop etc. I may have to use something different to the tables as it is only a weesaw :)

Good plan!!

Just wondering though - I think the plank between two tables more about the movement and having the dog confident striding along a moving plank/driving to the end than it is about actual see saw performance? ie: Once you get full speed along the tipping plank then it is time to move to the wee saw concept.

Agree. In the video Jen is training a full size seesaw & goes from a 4 inch drop to an 8 inch drop, working in both directions. So with the weesaw it would be the 4 inch then the 8 then the ground. She also does the "bang it" with the approach end up higher & gets the dog to jump onto the contact at the lower end to bang it to the floor, then increases the drop to the floor (bang). Not sure if I am making sense :laugh: She also rests the end up on milk crates & gets the dog to jump onto the contact from the side & treats for the position & staying in position. What she does make a point of, is that it is important that you don't give it your seesaw que until the whole lot is trained. And also don't give your normal release word unless the end is actually resting on the ground or the dog will think it can fly off the end.

[DeltaCharlie]

There is no option for both full height and weesaw height in your poll so can't complete it :)

[sheena]

There is no option for both full height and weesaw height in your poll so can't complete it :)

I guess it could have gone in the "Other" but that has been changed to read "Both" :)