Pulling On The Lead

[cindy's mum]

could someone please help with some suggestions!i have two one year old lab's,one male one female.my problem is with my girl cindy,she makes going for a walk like going three rounds with mike tyson,she constantly pulls[i use a halti all the time]and when another dog comes along she goes absolutely silly.my boy,levi just seems to put up with it,but the other dog owners just seem to run for the hills and won't let their dogs near her cause she looks like a maniac.please help!!!

cindy&levi's mum.

[Weimlover]

Hi there,

I am not a trainer but I did have the same problem with my weimaraner constantly pulling. For the past two months I have been using the Lupi harness which I have found EXCELLENT, NO MORE PULLING :D I just give him a lot of praise when he has it on for not pulling, he loves it..........

It is not bulky when on and price wise is not bad either.

It did take him a couple of days to get use to though but worth it.

I just wanted to add the webpage for you

http://www.companyofanimals.co.uk/lupi.php

Edited April 14, 2005 by Weimlover

[rachiie]

Hi Cindy's Mum, welcome to the forum!

I think you'll find that a lot of people on here don't agree with the way a halti works. I have never used one, but from what i understand, they work by putting pressure on the sensitive bones that are located in the dog's snout.

So, i would suggest trying another type of restraint for your dog. I have a 7 month old german shepherd, and we walk him on a check chain. We have had great success with this. However, you must know how to use it correctly - instead of just keeping it tight when he is pulling, you give him a quick 'check' (ie: pull the chain tight, then release in one smooth motion). But in order for the chain to release properly, you have have it over the dog's head correctly - pictures here

Note that the handler is on the left hand side of the dog - if you put it on like that and stand on the right side, it won't release.

They teach you all of this at obedience, is there somewhere close that you could attend? These classes are GREAT for socializing and learning how to work with your dog.

Also, as weimlover said make sure you PRAISE your dog like CRAZY whenever they are walking nicely without pulling. And if they look up at you, give them a pat as well. That teaches them to be aware of YOU, that YOU are in control and YOU are setting the pace for the walk. They are free to sniff and smell, so long as they keep up with YOU.

I hope i have helped you a bit... if you have any questions, let me know

[poodlefan]

I'd second Rachie's suggestion and suggest you find yourself a good dog training school. Its so much easier to learn by being shown how to train your dog than by reading.

As you have found, Halti's do not cure pulling on the lead... especially if you ALLOW the dog to pull.

You will not be able to train your girl out of this behaviour while walking two dogs - you need to focus on her and that's another reason I'd suggest taking some lessons - besides Labs are smart dogs and tend to enjoy the experience.

[cindy's mum]

thanks heaps to everybody that answered,i have tried other forum's but got no response.i am going to try some of your suggestions and see how i go,i'm only a novice at this and besides puppy preschool it's been just me.thanks heaps again.

cindy&levi's mum

[ninaandted]

hi cindy's mum,

i have the same problem with Nina (our lab cross...) she's too friendly by half and carries on like a maniac when other dogs go past. she loves other dogs and just behaves badly when on the lead.

anyway - we started going to a training group. they don't allow socialisation but they do work on self-control for your dog. it hasn't worked over night, but it is gradually working.

get some guidance - it does speed things up and the trainer can also help you assess what will work with your dog's nature. often when you are reading things your dog doesn't react the way it says it is supposed to which can leave you with more questions than answers!

[Rusky]

anyway - we started going to a training group. they don't allow socialisation

why not? have you asked? I think that is odd socialisation is important perhaps the most important aspect of training. Many people take dogs to training simply for socialisation, aren't they allowed to sniff bums or anything or is it just some dogs being desensitised who are not yet allowed to socialise?

[Rusky]

oops sorry didn't reply to Cindys Mum. I would say go to a training class and put the halti away till you know how to use it properly. Don't use a chain if you are having trouble with a halti you could do all sorts of damage with a chain, as you can with the halti.

Which brand is it incidentaly, the halti?

Walking a dog who pulls is nightmare material but the restraining methods you apply or collars you use need to be used in conjunction with a programme to help you understand why the dog pulls and how all sorts of stuff you allow your dog to do at home influences their pulling.

Try the flat, normal collar halt when pulls wait till not pulling then move off, or just stop and change direction, tell the dog where you are going, hey boy, we are going this way now, cos I am taking you for a walk not the other way round. It may take you half an hour to get down the driveway but you will get there.

I like the halti a lot but it must fit properly and you need to know how to walk the dog with it on. There is a manual with some, or have a look on the net.

edit to add you must allow your dog to sniff the ground, is just a doggy newspaper.

Edited April 15, 2005 by Rusky

[KOE]

If you don't have time for a training class try food but it is a bit hard with 2 dogs,being a Lab I am sure what is in your pocket or hand will be more interesting than another dog.

I am having the same trouble other way around I want Oliver to pull and he wants to just wander along.

[Lablover]

If I have thought this once, I have thought this a million times, LOL

Teaching good heeling without confusing the dog is the hardest thing to teach, once a problem or habit has been formed.

Timing of correction and praise is vital and not easily taught.

One simple thing that may help you if you dog is food motivated is to keep your left hand by your left side and tap your leg to teach the dog focus (or target) on where you want him to be (start without distractions). Praise as mentioned at the wrong time or pleading praise can be confusing also. Sometimes I often think the learner handler should not say anything AT ALL, but use their own body language (especially hands and legs) instead as I feel vocal cues are the last thing a dog understands any particular concept.

What also can sometimes help learners is to have 3 or 4 buckets in a clear section of lawn. So change of direction is easier for the handler. It is also important not to walk with a lunging dog, always try to walk in another direction, taping your knee or upper leg at the same time.

Also instead of saying heel use a fluent straight out motion with your hand from the dogs nose.

I hope this makes sense.

[Rusky]

I hope this makes sense.

does to me

also I forgot to mention the treats, make sure they are yummy, something really special if you are using a spot of bribery so your arm doesn't fall off.

They love bbq chicken and polony and yummy stuff, don't give cat biscuits and expect an excited reaction, and don't reward if they don't work right otherwise they think they don't have to do anything to get a tasty treat.

[sas]

I use to 'Pro Stop' harness for one of our foster dogs, it's working a treat, it's not a cure for pulling, it's a training aid, if you get one of these harnesses you have to remember to praise for not pulling

This method isn't for everyone, if you can get to a training club I think that would be very beneficial.

Good luck

Edited April 16, 2005 by sas

[George my Doggie]

I haven't read all the posts here, so sorry if this has been suggested already...

In correcting any problem behaviour, you have to find out what is rewarding it. With pulling, the reward is moving forward faster than normal, so you have to teach your dog that:

Pulling=You stopping

Give treats when she's walking nicely with the lead loose and without pulling. Do not use this method in combination with a check chain.

Haltis will not work with pulling unless you practice loose lead walking as well. The idea of them is to work with the dog's natural refexes and reduce the strength of the pull, and there is another kind that give you a bit of control over your dog's head. The idea of this type is 'where the head goes, the body follows', but they don't work well with older dogs that have a tendency to pull. You need to know how to use them properly or you can do serious damage to your dog. They are sometimes used for training assistance dog puppies.

Edited April 17, 2005 by George my Doggie

[Hownd]

Give treats when she's walking nicely with the lead loose and without pulling. Do not use this method in combination with a check chain.

Could you expand on this please?

I'd like to know why a check chain isn't appropriate in conjunction with this method.

I'm not trying to have a go or start a discussion on the ethics of using a check chain, I'm just interested in the reasons for it's non-use in this instance.

Thanks

[George my Doggie]

Because the idea of a check chain is to pull the dog back to you when it starts to pull on the lead.

The method I described is to simply stop, wait till the dog gets bored with going nowhere and lure it back to your side with food. If you just let the dog pull on a check chain without 'checking' it, you'll just strangle the dog or do some kind of damage to its neck.

Only a standard collar and lead should be used with the method I described.

Of course there are many different ways to teach a dog not to pull, I have found that each book I have bought on dog training has a different teqnique. You just have to find the one that works for your dog.

[paddles]

Now I must say first, this suggestion is what I began to use in desperation, so I think that it is a last resort, however I prefer it over different harnesses etc, I carry a dressage cane, (Long whip, although some people I know use a lengh of polypipe) now do not hit the dog! as you walk swing the cane back and forth in front of you, as the dog goes to go past you, let it tap the dog on the nose, keep swinging the cane, each time they try to go past they will get a tap, if they stay back it won't affect them at all, use the lead to keep the dog in range of the cane.

Also you can teach the dog to like the cane, by stroking the dog with it and rewarding it with it, I repeat you do not need to "hit" your dog, just let your dog run into the swinging cane,(Polypipe is good in as far as it make a noise) this worked really well with my dog, and has the added benifit that if another dog attacks mine whilst I am walking I have a simple defence.

[rachiie]

I was under the impression that you don't use a check chain to pull the dog back to you.

What i was taught is that you use a check chain to give a quick 'check' which catches the dog's attention to make it wonder what is going on. Thereby giving the handler its attention so that it can be given a command on what to do next. Of course, praise should be aplied liberally when it is doing what is' meant to.

Situation - you are walking your dog, it starts to lose interest and wander off to the side, before it gets too far, you give a quick 'check' and it looks at you as if to say 'what's happening!' and you show it that you actually want to walk straight, giving praise and cuddles when it comes to your side.

But as i said, that was just the impression i got - any experienced handlers that can please let me know the right way?

[George my Doggie]

I've never used a checkchain, and probably could have explained that a little better. That's only how I have seen them used (which may very weel be by people using them incorrectly). But you still should not use a checkchain with that method, you will harm your dog.

[Hownd]

Because the idea of a check chain is to pull the dog back to you when it starts to pull on the lead.

The method I described is to simply stop, wait till the dog gets bored with going nowhere and lure it back to your side with food. If you just let the dog pull on a check chain without 'checking' it, you'll just strangle the dog or do some kind of damage to its neck.

Thanks

[Sparty]

our trainer has just been to a seminar yesterday, she suggests as the dog gets past you reverse as if you are doing a recall (shuffle backwards) as the dog gets back to you, start forward (you can step rught a bit to put him on the correct side) by the time he turns around he is back in the heel position we did it in class today some people it worked better for than others but it might help you