Snoopy21 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Willow knows lots of commands and tricks and is generally very keen to train (over enthusiastic really!!). Things fall in a heap as soon as I add any distance. I usually try just slightly increasing the distance between us as we continue to work a command, but once I'm about 2 metres away, she jumps up and runs over to me before she does what I ask. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it? She isn't a performance dog or anything, I just like to be able to keep her brain ticking over and don't want to inadvertently teach my new pup the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonwoman Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Willow knows lots of commands and tricks and is generally very keen to train (over enthusiastic really!!). Things fall in a heap as soon as I add any distance. I usually try just slightly increasing the distance between us as we continue to work a command, but once I'm about 2 metres away, she jumps up and runs over to me before she does what I ask. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it? She isn't a performance dog or anything, I just like to be able to keep her brain ticking over and don't want to inadvertently teach my new pup the same thing. You have to increase distance gradually, probably she thinks all things are done close to you because that's where she was taught to do them, so she is coming to you to do what she has learned. One of mine could not sit up from the down facing me for love or money, just didn't get it, brought in a new command and did it straight off..........like it was a different dance step altogether............very literal dog, doesn't generalise easily If you have signals as well, how does she react with no voice command? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy21 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 She is great with signals on the most part. I've tried increasing distance gradually, but she just doesn't seem to get the whole 'you stay over there' bit. She's really smart, so I'm sure it's something I've done/am doing wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megan_ Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Do all the rewards come from you? If so, it makes sense that she gets up when you move away as that is where all the treats come from. Have you tried a remote trainer? If you can't get hold of one, try tossing the rewards behind her when you release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agility Dogs Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 She is great with signals on the most part. I've tried increasing distance gradually, but she just doesn't seem to get the whole 'you stay over there' bit. She's really smart, so I'm sure it's something I've done/am doing wrong. Sounds like your perception of gradual and hers might be slightly different?? I've always found that my guys don't generalise behaviours that they have learned in close to distance well without a LOT of reinforcement. Might be that you need to increase it by 6 inches at a time rather than 2m. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spotted Devil Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Try putting a bait plate behind her and releasing to it when she performs the behaviour. Or throwing the food behind her. I have a video on my YouTube that I can find a link to if you like. Try videoing a session too - it really helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheena Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Hi Snoopy, I have sent you a PM. I took my agility class right through the distance bit using the methods used by Kristy Netzer. Her DVD "Dial up The Distance" is excellent & until recently it was on free shipping from CleanRun. I did make class notes from watching the DVD & I still have them, hence the reason I have PM'd you, if you are interested. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzy82 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I've used the baby gate in my office to do some distance work. You start with the dog on the other side of the gate, do some easy position changes, then take a couple of steps away from the gate, then move back in (ping pong the distance). Repeat until you can get the dog to change position several metres away. Then open the gate between you and repeat. Because the dog has been doing the position changes in that spot, the gate being open doesn't matter. Then move the dog to the other side of the gate so it's on the same side as you, but still close enough to the original spot that it remembers what you were just doing. Then just add new environments and more distance from there. I've seen some people have the dog do the position changes on a platform or mat, and then add a bit of distance from there. Because the dog has a defined area to stay on, it's easier to add distance than if there's nothing to tell the dog where to stay. Then remove the mat and have the dog in the spot where the mat used to be, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy21 Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 She is great with signals on the most part. I've tried increasing distance gradually, but she just doesn't seem to get the whole 'you stay over there' bit. She's really smart, so I'm sure it's something I've done/am doing wrong. Sounds like your perception of gradual and hers might be slightly different?? I've always found that my guys don't generalise behaviours that they have learned in close to distance well without a LOT of reinforcement. Might be that you need to increase it by 6 inches at a time rather than 2m. Oh - sorry I explained that badly. I have been creeping back, probably about 10 cms at a time, and that is fine until I get about 2 metres away, which is when she suddenly jumps up when I ask her to do something. I toss treats normally, but maybe a bait station is worth a go, thanks. She also know to to go to her mat, so maybe using the mat as a defined space might work, I'll try that too. Thanks Sheena, I'll pm you for those notes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheena Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) Best to get her driving to a target then you can release her by saying "Go, get it". Don't use your usual release word that you would if you were wanting her to come to you. Our young guy, if we line him up before an obstacle & give him our usual release word of "OK" he will more than likely go around the obstacle & come straight to us, which we don't want. So we say "go" & the name of the first obstacle. If that makes sense :) Edited May 29, 2013 by sheena Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Podengo Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Using a ball is how I taught my dog some distance behaviours, as I could reward remotely. Stuff like drop at a distance was super easy with a thrown ball as a reward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zug Zug Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) Throw the reward behind the dog, or have a reward waiting behind the dog and release them to 'get it' when the position is performed correctly. Still need to start up close and build up to it I have also found using a platform helpful, then fade to a stick on the ground, then a leash on the ground, then nothing. Edited May 29, 2013 by Zug Zug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddles Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 I've seen distance work done with a long line, hooked around a pole? so you can control the dog coming to wards you??? they learn they can't come towards you, then start offering behaviours... hmmm, have a look again at k9 pro's triangle of temptation... I think that's where I read it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emilymarston Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I used a target disk to get my dog further and further away from me. I also rewarded my dog by throwing the away from me, so she expects to move away for a reward. Eventually I built a bigger distance and slowly worked up to adding extra cues once she reached the target. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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