Agility And Obedience Classes

[aussielover]

Just wanted some thoughts on the best thing to do before agility/obedience classes and also in between exercises?

I was told that for agility we should let our dogs run about and play for 20 mins before class to burn some energy. I usually turn up 10-15 mins before class and play ball with my dog, then she is tied up for about 15 mins while we set the equipment up. I don't notice a change in her behaviour though if we come later and she doesn't get to run first.

In between exercises she is on lead, although sometimes I'll play tug with her. I don't really notice a change in behaviour if I play with her or just keep her on lead though. We get a morning tea break for about 10 mins and I usually take her for a swim in the creek. After this I see a noticeable improvement in her performance. After class I play ball with her for around 30 mins and let her swim again.

[Kavik]

Mine is in a crate unless I am working with him. I want his energy and focus on me and playing with/working with me.

ETA: while waiting for my turn in class (ie big dogs in agility) I will play a game with him to warm him up and get him ready to work with me. Circle work/hand touches etc. If there is going to be a while before my turn I will crate him again.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Kavik

[huski]

I don't really do classes but when my dog isn't working she's crated.

When we get to training she's crated and when I want to train her I take her out, we play/train, then I put her away and repeat.

Sometimes at the end of the night I let her have a run around (usually to go to the toilet before going home) but I don't let her play with other dogs at training (before or during or after).

I don't really understand the 'burning energy' thing before class, why wouldn't you want your dog to give 100% of what they have in training

I also discourage people when I teach obedience classes from letting their dogs play with others at training, especially before class, I see people all the time who have let their dogs play before class struggle with their dogs during class because they want to go and play with the other dogs. If your dog can't focus when other dogs are around, it seems counter productive to let them play with other dogs at training.

ETA: If I am in between exercises or have to stop training for a short period to do something I'll usually put my dog in a stay so she is still "working" and engaged with me.

I never used to crate her much at training/trials etc but then I realised I was using up a lot of her energy just by having her out of her crate so I now have her crated all the time.

Edited January 22, 2012 by huski

[**Super_Dogs**]

I also crate my dog if I am not working with her. She is not a high energy dog so I do not want to burn any energy - we need all we can get!!!! I get her out just before her run and we do a few exercises for focus.

[ness]

I tend to leave mine in the car if the weather is ok and not to warm. I will get them out of the car to train and they will go back in the car when they have had their turn.

[megan_]

Crated, but you do need to warm them up and stretch before agility (turns, bows etc)

[Rileys mum]

I usually play a game before class to engage my dog and get his focus onto me instead of the other dogs etc. the games are usually hand touches or getting quick responses to sit, down, back etc. I never let my dog play with other dogs. I want his focus and value to be with me.

I often do similar games between turns during training too.

If Im not in a class etc my dog is either crated or in the car.

[RubyStar]

I don't really understand the 'burning energy' thing before class, why wouldn't you want your dog to give 100% of what they have in training

Agreed.

I do need to stretch and toilet my dogs before any work, and even hate energy being burnt by that :laugh:

[Weasels]

I don't really understand the 'burning energy' thing before class, why wouldn't you want your dog to give 100% of what they have in training .

Depends on the dog! My girl is really high energy (I recently decided on the phrase 'hummingbird in a dog suit' describes her best) and a quick jog and sniff around helps get some of the 'silly' out of her so she can focus better. I've learnt it's no good starting with weaves, for example, because after being home all day she really wants to stretch her legs on the jumps and tunnels before she does more precise work or tries to learn something new (we're still starting out on weaves). It's a balancing act of course, because being too puffed means she can't learn well either.

Edit: I also think getting a chance to explore and sniff around the grounds first makes the environment less of a distraction, because then it's 'been there, done that' for the rest of the evening.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Weasels

[huski]

Guess it depends on how you like to train Weasels - We have an instructor at our club who tells me off if I don't immediately launch my obedience class into a big paddock bashing session when class starts because apparently the dogs need some "drive taken out" before they can focus - entirely the opposite to how I train. If I had a really high drive dog and I wanted to take the edge of a bit before going in the ring I would do it by playing a big tug or food game and doing a bit of work before hand. But I personally like my dogs to come out and work straight away, I used to have to walk Daisy for miles before training so I had a chance of getting something out of her because unless she was super tired she'd scent all the time. We don't do that now because I want to harness that energy instead.

[Kavik]

I actually love doing weaves first :laugh: (after a warm up focus session with circle work) - they are a tiring execise for the dog and he will give me quicker and more focused work in the weaves at the start. I keep my sessions very short as well, and am trying to do less sessions per class and work on getting speed and focus rather than length or number of repetitions.

[wuffles]

I don't have a set routine but I don't crate Ava that much. Sometimes she gets a quick play before class (not too long as I don't want to wear her out), sometimes just a bit of a wander sniff pee, sometimes she gets tethered while I help set up a course.

After class it also varies. Sometimes a play, sometimes straight home, sometimes comes into the clubhouse with me, etc.

She's a medium drive dog, as long as I don't completely tire her out she will work with enthusiasm. She's much more focussed on me than other dogs so letting her play has never hindered her performance.

Edit: While we're waiting around we play "find heel" type games, do tricks and other basic obedience.

Edited January 22, 2012 by wuffles

[Max#1]

I have a fairly energetic dog - he could work all day. Without giving him a run, literally a chance to run full speed, even for only 15 minutes, he'd be a nightmare at obedience. In answer to the perspn who asked why wouldn't you want their full energy on you.... Because in this case he has too much to give!! Although as he now approaches 2 yo and has remarkably "settled" in all aspects I start to find we can do without this.

Our pup, nearly 9 mths, doesn't need it at all. Though does if offered! She's very laid back generally.

For Flyball, we do let them run together before and after training. As its a team sport this might be different then for agility. I want for both dogs that they know the difference between play and work. For some ppl, they rather not, which is okay. For my dogs I have good focus from them once work begins, it's not a problem.

Between things, they're crated. I've gone through too many chewed leads with the boy for tethering!

ETA also for Flyball I think it's good if the teams know each other. Good socialisation opportunity.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Max#1

[J...]

If I do an agility class these days I let my dogs out for a quick toilet and a 5 min run before class given they've just spent nearly 90 minutes in the car to get to club.

Put them back in the car while I help set up the gear. Give them each a really good warm up and stretch before I work them. The one who is not being trained waits quietly while I work the other for a few minutes and I take it in turns for a few minutes each go.

At the end of class I'll give them a run (rarely with other dogs and only those I know and trust, and definitely only ever with small numbers for safety reasons) or a swim if it's warm before they go back in the car. My dogs don't give a stuff about other dogs anyway so doesn't really matter if they get to run with others provided they are safe.

To me a good warm up is non-negotiable for any agility dog and bloody hard to do it sufficiently without an off lead run. Giving their brain a warm up also gets them thinking rather than being too high up the arousal curve to give decent responses.

[Weasels]

Kavik - I don't think fox quite 'gets' weaves yet, so if we start with them she gets frustrated and woofy. Once she understands the exercise better I will re-evaluate :)

Huski - the thing with fox is that her modes are pretty much either 'work' or 'lying down', even a jog or game of fetch is Serious Business and she gets growly with any dog that tries to disrupt her. Focus and keenness to work aren't things in short supply! Makes her a chalkenge to live with but a joy to train (Weez on the other hand.... well lets just say I've learnt a lot more about training thanks to him :/ )

Edit:

I want for both dogs that they know the difference between play and work. For some ppl, they rather not, which is okay

i'm definitelty a person that doesn't distinguish between work and play with my dogs, I mix up tricks, obedience and games every time we go out. So I see jogging and fetch as part of the work because there are rules - keep up and stay focussed on jogs, bring the ball back and do tricks during fetch.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Weasels

[huski]

LOL well I'll see how I go doing the same thing when I get my WL pup later this year, I don't think you can ever have too much energy or drive if it's harnessed correctly

[Weasels]

LOL well I'll see how I go doing the same thing when I get my WL pup later this year, I don't think you can ever have too much energy or drive if it's harnessed correctly

Hehe good luck! I woudln't change a thing about fox, even when she's on her second hour of trying to get my OH to play a game of fetch :D which breed are you getting?

[huski]

LOL well I'll see how I go doing the same thing when I get my WL pup later this year, I don't think you can ever have too much energy or drive if it's harnessed correctly

Hehe good luck! I woudln't change a thing about fox, even when she's on her second hour of trying to get my OH to play a game of fetch :D which breed are you getting?

I could quite possibly eat my words so we'll see what it's like once pup pup is here :laugh:

I am getting a field bred English Springer :) Can't wait!! :)

[Kavik]

LOL well I'll see how I go doing the same thing when I get my WL pup later this year, I don't think you can ever have too much energy or drive if it's harnessed correctly

Yes I think the main problem people have is not having it focussed/harnessed correctly and the dog is distracted acting loony lol.

ETA: I used to exercise Zoe to get the edge off before class as well as she is dog aggro and I knew nothing about how to utilise drive or how to get good focus then. She is 12 now.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Kavik

[Jumabaar]

I don't really understand the 'burning energy' thing before class, why wouldn't you want your dog to give 100% of what they have in training .

Depends on the dog! My girl is really high energy (I recently decided on the phrase 'hummingbird in a dog suit' describes her best) and a quick jog and sniff around helps get some of the 'silly' out of her so she can focus better. I've learnt it's no good starting with weaves, for example, because after being home all day she really wants to stretch her legs on the jumps and tunnels before she does more precise work or tries to learn something new (we're still starting out on weaves). It's a balancing act of course, because being too puffed means she can't learn well either.

Edit: I also think getting a chance to explore and sniff around the grounds first makes the environment less of a distraction, because then it's 'been there, done that' for the rest of the evening.

I understand what you mean. I used to take the edge off Abby because she would be soooo full on that she would throw herself into everything and end up trying to do 10 things at once and none of them amazing. She always did amazing toward the end of a session when she had lost her excess energy. I was someone that the trainers always said should exercise their dog before a session, but after I found two hours of bike riding didn't work I gave up and just went to training with a mental dog.

I do agree that this is because I had not managed to harness her drive.

At the same time, even after harnessing her drive (to the best of my ability at the time) I know that her first 'set' of anything will not be as neat and tidy as her second 'set'. This is flyball or Rally and in the past agility. So although I work her (after a quick toilet stop) from the beginning I am prepared that for her she does need some settling time to go her best work. Not sure if further training could have fixed that but its easy to work around. He focus and drive is no different between the two sessions, she just seems to process things better once her brain is warmed up a little. She seems to waste less energy after we have got our first session out of the way

I havent noticed it as much in my other dogs, but I do think its there on a much much smaller scale. Since I am the common trainer in this case I can't say if its a kelpie thing or a trainer thing.

They remains crated unless I can focus on them because I want to always give them 100% so that I can always ask for 100%.

Edited January 22, 2012 by Jumabaar