Pulling On Lead

[ludwig09]

Hi all,

Am having trouble with my dogs pulling me when walking. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to rectify it? I have tried the penalty yard technique to little avail? Any other training suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you

[tiff-689]

My two were the same. Tried heel training and even choke chains without much success.

I went out and bought two sensible harnesses a few weeks back. The leash attached at the front so when they go to pull their bodies are turned in the opposite direction. It only took them one or two tries to figure out there was no point. I plan on getting them back to a normal flat lead sometime but the harnesses have been a great training tool for me No pulling at all anymore and we can all enjoy the walks.

[Spudd]

My two were the same. Tried heel training and even choke chains without much success.

I went out and bought two sensible harnesses a few weeks back. The leash attached at the front so when they go to pull their bodies are turned in the opposite direction. It only took them one or two tries to figure out there was no point. I plan on getting them back to a normal flat lead sometime but the harnesses have been a great training tool for me No pulling at all anymore and we can all enjoy the walks.

Same here, Spudd used to pull when we would see another dog on our walks and after getting the front attach harness, he has been great, no pulling any more!

[ludwig09]

My two were the same. Tried heel training and even choke chains without much success.

I went out and bought two sensible harnesses a few weeks back. The leash attached at the front so when they go to pull their bodies are turned in the opposite direction. It only took them one or two tries to figure out there was no point. I plan on getting them back to a normal flat lead sometime but the harnesses have been a great training tool for me No pulling at all anymore and we can all enjoy the walks.

Hi tiff-689, that sounds like a good idea. I currently walk my two with harnesses but the clip is on the back so i think it just makes it more comfortable for them to pull me.

[sheena]

My two were the same. Tried heel training and even choke chains without much success.

I went out and bought two sensible harnesses a few weeks back. The leash attached at the front so when they go to pull their bodies are turned in the opposite direction. It only took them one or two tries to figure out there was no point. I plan on getting them back to a normal flat lead sometime but the harnesses have been a great training tool for me No pulling at all anymore and we can all enjoy the walks.

Hi tiff-689, that sounds like a good idea. I currently walk my two with harnesses but the clip is on the back so i think it just makes it more comfortable for them to pull me.

To be of any use, the lead must clip on the front. Back clipping harnesses just encourage pulling.

[Dju]

I bought a halti for Hugo but there was absolutely no training going on, it just instantly corrected him while he had the halti on but put him back on flat lead and the problem reappeared. So if you actually care about loose leash walking your dog, I wouldn't get a bandaid fix like that. The only thing that stopped Hugo's pulling was a good solid week of walking him in a stop go stop go motion all the time. When he pulled, I stopped walking until the leash went slack, or he looked at me, clicked the clicker, fed him a treat, and we kept going. Of course I was a noobie at that so I also did things like when he walked alongside me I clicked repeatedly and treated him for as long as he stayed by my side. Clicker training is awesome. After a week of doing that, even though I looked like a numpty stopping and starting all the time, he finally got it and while he doesn't walk next to me, it's always loosh leash. He does his thing and I do mine, I don't need him to walk besides me.

[jakeyjangels]

My neighbour & I were only discussing the same problem over the fence this morning.

She has a new rescue BC that she couldn't walk due to him pulling, so on her vets recommendation, purchased the Gentle Leader Head Collar yesterday.

She said it is fantastic & he is a completely different dog to walk now.

I will be buying one now for my 6 month old Lab.

[ludwig09]

Thanks everyone for your quick replies. I have just ordered 2 easy walk harnesses online. I cant wait for them to arrive now to try them.

[persephone]

I bought a halti for Hugo but there was absolutely no training going on, it just instantly corrected him while he had the halti on but put him back on flat lead and the problem reappeared. So if you actually care about loose leash walking your dog, I wouldn't get a bandaid fix like that. The only thing that stopped Hugo's pulling was a good solid week of walking him in a stop go stop go motion all the time. When he pulled, I stopped walking until the leash went slack, or he looked at me, clicked the clicker, fed him a treat, and we kept going. Of course I was a noobie at that so I also did things like when he walked alongside me I clicked repeatedly and treated him for as long as he stayed by my side. Clicker training is awesome. After a week of doing that, even though I looked like a numpty stopping and starting all the time, he finally got it and while he doesn't walk next to me, it's always loosh leash. He does his thing and I do mine, I don't need him to walk besides me.

I was beginning to think no one bothered to do any actual learning/training anymore ;)

yes, there are harnesses one can buy ... and you can also do things the old fashioned way - getting taught a method which you can use to educate your dog

Training tools like headcollars can be DANGEROUS if used inappropriately , with an inexperienced dog owner.

Dog training clubs , and private trainers can work with you on understanding WHY your dog pulls , HOW to stop it, and WHEN to use the techniques

Dogs walked together may pull a lot more ..they are a 'pack' and excitement is infectious.

pups /teenagers who have not been taught from day one to walk on a loose leash, will of course pull .. as they know no better

A lot of dogs pull simply because their owners are unsure of what to do , and are concerned of being 'cruel' , or hurting the dog in some way.

I enjoy the communications which happen when a pup/dog is being trained ..and then walks on a loose leash, or whatever , wearing just a flat collar , and is doing so because they are listening , feeling, and responding to my voice, and /or slight changes in my body language .......

learning how to actually communicate with , and educate your pup/dog is a fascination .. as you then find out all the different bits of information your dog processes to make him what he is ;)

[Greytmate]

Good post Persephone.

I would rather train a dog by teaching it what behaviour will bring a reward than using a device that causes pain or discomfort to stop a behaviour.

Ludwig09, I have taught quite a few dogs to walk on a flat collar.

Before suggesting different techniques I would really need to know what problems you were having with the technique you have tried. Are you getting help or feedback on your training? Why do you think it's not working for you?

You may find that your new harnesses are most effective if you get some obedience instruction as well.

[corvus]

The only thing that stopped Hugo's pulling was a good solid week of walking him in a stop go stop go motion all the time. When he pulled, I stopped walking until the leash went slack, or he looked at me, clicked the clicker, fed him a treat, and we kept going. Of course I was a noobie at that so I also did things like when he walked alongside me I clicked repeatedly and treated him for as long as he stayed by my side. Clicker training is awesome. After a week of doing that, even though I looked like a numpty stopping and starting all the time, he finally got it and while he doesn't walk next to me, it's always loosh leash. He does his thing and I do mine, I don't need him to walk besides me.

Nice one, Dju!

[Lollipup]

I agree with Persephone, good post!

I have found that tools are a bandaid solution and its best to teach the dog what is expected. I am training mine to walk nicely on a flat collar. When we're not training and we're just going for a walk, I use a front attach harness to stop the pulling. If we go for a walk on the flat collar and I let them pull on that, I am undoing all the previous training not to pull on the flat collar.

[ButerflyGirl]

I bought a halti for Hugo but there was absolutely no training going on, it just instantly corrected him while he had the halti on but put him back on flat lead and the problem reappeared. So if you actually care about loose leash walking your dog, I wouldn't get a bandaid fix like that. The only thing that stopped Hugo's pulling was a good solid week of walking him in a stop go stop go motion all the time. When he pulled, I stopped walking until the leash went slack, or he looked at me, clicked the clicker, fed him a treat, and we kept going. Of course I was a noobie at that so I also did things like when he walked alongside me I clicked repeatedly and treated him for as long as he stayed by my side. Clicker training is awesome. After a week of doing that, even though I looked like a numpty stopping and starting all the time, he finally got it and while he doesn't walk next to me, it's always loosh leash. He does his thing and I do mine, I don't need him to walk besides me.

I have done something very similar to this. I started in the back yard, turning and going the other way when ever he started to get too far in front and pull, worked so well that if I slowed I would almost be tripped over by a turning dog. Then I found a training club that is positive based (ie no need for slip collars and corrections) and welcomed clicker training if people wanted to use it, and was told something so simple I had never even thought of it. That was go right back to basics, hold a treat at your hip and walk, dog has nose at the treat (trying to get it) and presto no pulling!!, do this in conjunction with the command ("heel"), then progress that to give the command take one step and click and treat before they get to the pulling stage, then slowly increase to a couple of steps, and the idea is that they learn that being by your side is a good thing (ie they get treats)

I would rather train a dog by teaching it what behaviour will bring a reward than using a device that causes pain or discomfort to stop a behaviour.

having done the traditional obedience and now moving to clicker training and positive reinforcement I would definately say that positive works much better than corrections. Yes it may take a little longer, but I often find if the dog isnt catching on it's the way I'm teaching it, usually I havent broken the task down small enough, and he doesnt know what is expected.

[Dju]

Thanks guys lol :D

Yeah at first I was all "HALTI!! FIX PROBLEM!! YAYY!!!" and then I realised that Hugo was walking around with something that people thought was a muzzle, so they didn't want to go near him, and that he hated it so much that every few hundred meters he'd drag his face against the ground. I couldn't keep putting him through that, and I wanted him to loose leash walk anyways, so I read a post by Sheena (I think) in the Training forum that outlined how she taught her dogs to loose leash walk using a clicker. I had a clicker that Miss B gave Hugo for Secret Santa Christmas last year, and I thought it couldn't hurt. Hugo goes insane when he sees the clicker now. "SIT STAND ROLL OVER LAY DOWN OMG WHAT DO YOU WANT ME TO DO I AM GOING TO DO THEM ALL!" So big success! Now I can go running with him and he takes up a good pace besides me (turns out half the problem of him pulling may have actually been I was ambling about too slowly).

But yeah, if you care about actually training your dog out of the habit, don't get a tool like an Easy Walk harness or a Halti. It just makes you lazy to actually train the dog to loose leash walk, and if you're anything like how I was, you'll procrastinate so much that it will make the job that much harder when you come to the realisation that you actually need to correct the problem. If I had spent any time on loose leash walking Hugo when he was a small puppy, it may have only taken days--I waited around 8 months or so and it was really difficult and took at least a week, if not more, of stop start stop start turn around walk the other way stop start turn around and walk the other way. Serves me right though, for trying a quick fix instead of training it out of him.

[Gayle.]

Here's a way to teach a dog to walk beside you that doesn't use a special collar, harness or headpiece. My friend with a strong pulling Dobe tried this out at my suggestion and it works and it's now ingrained and the dog walks beside her, and gaits beside her in the show ring, unlike before when it was towing her along and she couldn't keep up.

You need a stick or a riding crop or something straightish and longish. Have the dog on your left side as you normally would and the lead in your left hand. The stick is in your right hand and each time the dog pulls forward, bring the stick across and block the dog from stepping out ahead. The stick becomes an extension of yourself and the dog won't go where you are "claiming" the space. It all sounds a bit Cesar Milan-ish but it's a technique I've learned at herding to keep the dog from going between me and the sheep........I plant my stick in "my" space and she goes around me and moves the sheep as a group. It even works to keep the dog from nipping the sheep on the bum......if she starts, I tap the sheep to let her know they are MY sheep and she stays back away from MY space.

[Lollipup]

Here's a way to teach a dog to walk beside you that doesn't use a special collar, harness or headpiece. My friend with a strong pulling Dobe tried this out at my suggestion and it works and it's now ingrained and the dog walks beside her, and gaits beside her in the show ring, unlike before when it was towing her along and she couldn't keep up.

You need a stick or a riding crop or something straightish and longish. Have the dog on your left side as you normally would and the lead in your left hand. The stick is in your right hand and each time the dog pulls forward, bring the stick across and block the dog from stepping out ahead. The stick becomes an extension of yourself and the dog won't go where you are "claiming" the space. It all sounds a bit Cesar Milan-ish but it's a technique I've learned at herding to keep the dog from going between me and the sheep........I plant my stick in "my" space and she goes around me and moves the sheep as a group. It even works to keep the dog from nipping the sheep on the bum......if she starts, I tap the sheep to let her know they are MY sheep and she stays back away from MY space.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I my be able to try this. Have you found that herding breeds like to always be that bit out in front even if not pulling? How long does it usually take for the average dog to learn with the technique you shared?

[Gayle.]

Here's a way to teach a dog to walk beside you that doesn't use a special collar, harness or headpiece. My friend with a strong pulling Dobe tried this out at my suggestion and it works and it's now ingrained and the dog walks beside her, and gaits beside her in the show ring, unlike before when it was towing her along and she couldn't keep up.

You need a stick or a riding crop or something straightish and longish. Have the dog on your left side as you normally would and the lead in your left hand. The stick is in your right hand and each time the dog pulls forward, bring the stick across and block the dog from stepping out ahead. The stick becomes an extension of yourself and the dog won't go where you are "claiming" the space. It all sounds a bit Cesar Milan-ish but it's a technique I've learned at herding to keep the dog from going between me and the sheep........I plant my stick in "my" space and she goes around me and moves the sheep as a group. It even works to keep the dog from nipping the sheep on the bum......if she starts, I tap the sheep to let her know they are MY sheep and she stays back away from MY space.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I my be able to try this. Have you found that herding breeds like to always be that bit out in front even if not pulling? How long does it usually take for the average dog to learn with the technique you shared?

My friend said it only took a few minutes for her dog to get the idea, then about another half hour to re-inforce it.

None of my dogs pull on lead, that's not through good training, thats just sheer good luck. They tend to walk a little in front but without pulling. So I haven't tried it with them but it works with Shae, my herding dog......one tap of the stick in the space that she's not allowed in and she gets it. And I didn't have to teach it, she instinctively knew it.

[corvus]

Tools are a bandaid in loose leash walking, but that doesn't mean they don't work or that they can't help you make a start. I know dogs that have been walked on head collars or front attach harnesses for the vast majority of their lives and they are happy and their owners are happy. Whatever works for you. I don't think people need feel guilty if they just want to permanently manage pulling with some kind of training tool assuming it keeps working indefinitely.

Anyway, I like this page for some really great, simple tips for how to avoid rewarding pulling and what to reward instead: http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/leash-walking/

ETA Leashes and flat collars are tools as well. In my mind the aim is to have the leash there for emergencies, but we have a lot of 'emergencies' in day to day life. I don't see why, if I have to rely on leashes sometimes, other people shouldn't rely on head collars, correctional collars, or no-pull harnesses sometimes.

Edited September 19, 2011 by corvus

[huski]

There is nothing wrong with using a tool to help train your dog to walk on a loose leash. If it's used properly it is used a tool WITH a training program not as a bandaid.

having done the traditional obedience and now moving to clicker training and positive reinforcement I would definately say that positive works much better than corrections. Yes it may take a little longer, but I often find if the dog isnt catching on it's the way I'm teaching it, usually I havent broken the task down small enough, and he doesnt know what is expected.

Hmmm, that's a massive generalisation if I've ever heard one! Why can't you use a combination of both? I personally don't care so much about the method used but the results it gets.

A good trainer can have a dog walking on a loose leash in minutes, it shouldn't be something that takes a very long time to teach if the owner has the right training program and timing.

Edited September 19, 2011 by huski

[Nekhbet]

wow no wonder penalty yards didnt work, just reading the overall page gave me a headache.

Way too complicated.

If you have 2 dogs you need to divide and conquer. You need to teach the dog to focus on you, reward the dog for not pulling and for looking to you. If you have a compulsive puller or one disinterested in rewards/escalates too far then corrective aids can help the dog learn by reducing its reaction.

You never try and train two pulling dogs at the same time. You cannot give them enough attention or get your timing right. You get the work on each then start slowly together.

If it's difficult consult a professional trainer. Walking dogs should not take a week or three if you do it correctly or get the right help. Last multi dog walk took me an hour.