raineth Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Please take him to the Vet to make absolutely sure that there is nothing going on that you don't know about. Is it his back that reaches your hip, or his head? If its his back then he really is very underweight Lamb is wonderful for putting on weight so Lamb flaps, lamb necks, and lamb hearts might really help him along Perhaps you could even try that special high calorie food that Hills makes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarLapyz Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Grab a bag of Artemis Osopure Power Formula (http://www.pookinuk.com.au/artemis-osopure-power-formula.html) and put him on that plus some rice and mince. You'll have no trouble putting some weight on him and he will get everything he needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason_Gibbs Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) I was under the impression that with EIC they dont actually lose consciousness though?? Edited July 10, 2011 by Mason2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwp4me Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Horse 2008, your pup is so gorgeous, please take note of all the kind advise offered on this forum. Forget about tinned dogfood, feed as part of his diet a top quality dry dogfood, to make sure Horse get's his needed minerals/vitamins, and not just a belly full of water. Depending on how old Horse is, he may need a Large Breed Puppy dry dogfood. I use kitchen scissors to cut chicken necks into 3-4 pieces, also flatten them with a mallet, as my pup is a fussy eater. Hurry up, take horse to a good vet, can't play around with puppy's health. Best luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumabaar Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) I was under the impression that with EIC they dont actually lose consciousness though?? For Horse 2008- EIC= Exercise Induced Collapse. Which has been identified in some lines of Labrador thus the reason it is suggested as a reason for your dogs collapse. It is hard to determine if the dog actually did lose consciousness without further information from the OP. I have seen a dog with EIC that was severely disorientated with glazed eyes and unable to focus. Another I have seen was very alert and still trying to run, dragging its back legs. Also more information on the actual incident ie how long the dog had been working for, specifically what type of work and how excited the dog was. It could have been EIC, dehydration, heat exhaustion, Hypoglycaemia, a neurological problem or others. All of these should have been considered by the OP's vet and a series of questions, physical exam and even blood and urine tests could be run to either rule out or rule in some of these basic causes. Edited July 11, 2011 by ~Woofen~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussielover Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I'd feed him a "performance" kibble for really active dogs and competition dogs as they have a high energy/calorie content. And I'd feed him real meat and bones instead of tinned pet food. Being a large breed dog I would feed him at least twice a day, instead of one big meal which can lead to bloat. And as others have said, a trip to the vet to rule out medical causes of weight loss or failure to thrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andisa Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 To the OP - your dog is in serious need of a proper diet, it is clear that you are not feeding him correctly. If you are interested in how I feed my dogs send me a PM and I can explain how to improve your dogs diet. Sorry if that is rude and blunt but it was the best I could do right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrinaJ Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) I too would suggest feeding a premium dry kibbke. I highly recommend Aretmis Osopure which is what I feed my rottweilers. They get the dry kibble but also get raw meat (beef/ox cheek), vets all natural, natural yoghurt, sardines, eggs, olive oil, raw vegetables and pasta. On average my largest gets 350gm raw meat, vets all natural, raw veggies and 3 cups of Artemis. He's 45kg. My bitch gets the same but only 2 cups of dry and my 9 month old puppy gets the same with 3 cups of Med/large breed puppy. All are in excellent condition as are their coats. I am also a strong believer in goats milk. Mine get goats milk at night fo supper, it's great for their bones and also gives them more calcium. Lamb flaps, shanks or other meaty bones are given during the day for lunch. I no longer feed chicken because of all the additional hormones they are now fed, I used to feed them chicken carcus' a couple of times a week instead of the bones. Most important of all is to make sure the vet checks your dog thoroughly and does a complete blood workup on him and et him wormed. Avoid training until he's physically able, an by that I mean not underweight. Elite athletes do not train when they are emaciated neither should your dog. Edited July 12, 2011 by TrinaJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumabaar Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I too would suggest feeding a premium dry kibbke. I highly recommend Aretmis Osopure which is what I feed my rottweilers. They get the dry kibble but also get raw meat (beef/ox cheek), vets all natural, natural yoghurt, sardines, eggs, olive oil, raw vegetables and pasta. On average my largest gets 350gm raw meat, vets all natural, raw veggies and 3 cups of Artemis. He's 45kg. My bitch gets the same but only 2 cups of dry and my 9 month old puppy gets the same with 3 cups of Med/large breed puppy. All are in excellent condition as are their coats. I am also a strong believer in goats milk. Mine get goats milk at night fo supper, it's great for their bones and also gives them more calcium. Lamb flaps, shanks or other meaty bones are given during the day for lunch. I no longer feed chicken because of all the additional hormones they are now fed, I used to feed them chicken carcus' a couple of times a week instead of the bones. Most important of all is to make sure the vet checks your dog thoroughly and does a complete blood workup on him and et him wormed. Avoid training until he's physically able, an by that I mean not underweight. Elite athletes do not train when they are emancipated neither should your dog. Wow I think you just about wrote out my dogs diet!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SarasMum Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I too would suggest feeding a premium dry kibbke. I highly recommend Aretmis Osopure which is what I feed my rottweilers. They get the dry kibble but also get raw meat (beef/ox cheek), vets all natural, natural yoghurt, sardines, eggs, olive oil, raw vegetables and pasta. On average my largest gets 350gm raw meat, vets all natural, raw veggies and 3 cups of Artemis. He's 45kg. My bitch gets the same but only 2 cups of dry and my 9 month old puppy gets the same with 3 cups of Med/large breed puppy. All are in excellent condition as are their coats. I am also a strong believer in goats milk. Mine get goats milk at night fo supper, it's great for their bones and also gives them more calcium. Lamb flaps, shanks or other meaty bones are given during the day for lunch. I no longer feed chicken because of all the additional hormones they are now fed, I used to feed them chicken carcus' a couple of times a week instead of the bones. Most important of all is to make sure the vet checks your dog thoroughly and does a complete blood workup on him and et him wormed. Avoid training until he's physically able, an by that I mean not underweight. Elite athletes do not train when they are emancipated neither should your dog. Sorry, just had to mention that hormones haven't actually been used in chicken for over 40 years. Yes chickens are bred bigger but its not hormones. Back to the OP, if its finances that are the problem with feeding premium kibble then I know some members here have had good results with Uncle Albers which is about $22 for a 20kg bag. Cheaper than supermarket food. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 some members here have had good results with Uncle Albers which is about $22 for a 20kg bag. *puts up hand * It's good stuff - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andisa Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 some members here have had good results with Uncle Albers which is about $22 for a 20kg bag. *puts up hand * It's good stuff - The only dogs I have seen on this food crap heaps - not saying they all will but it seems the OP was trying to avoid the dog crapping too much... :rolleyes: The more fillers the more that goes through them but for the price of Uncle Albers it will put condition on the dog which he is in desperate need of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Some do - some don't ... but they do put on weight with it , and I've never had a refusal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakway Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 This brand of dog food may help Horse put on weight in conjunction with raw foods. Uncle Albers is great Dog Food that is very economical. It does not contain great amounts of grain but it does help in dogs gaining weight. Here is the ingredients list. Please note that cooked cereals are different from adding raw cereals. Please I am not a scientist I do not know the exact formula but have alway been told that animals can digest it far better and get more nutrition out of it. INGREDIENTS Uncle Alber's is formulated from a selection of the following ingredients. Cooked meat or meat by-products derived from beef, lamb, poultry or pork. Cooked fish or fish by-products. Fat, cooked cereals and wheaten bran. Products derived from canola and soyabeans. Lysine, methionine, antioxidant, bentonite, vitamins and minerals. Vitamins: A, D3, E, K, B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B6 (pyridoxine), B12, niacin, pantothenate, folic acid and biotin. Minerals: Calcium, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, cobalt, copper, iodine, iron, manganese, selenium and zinc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombie Bait Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I own an over sized RR. Think small great Dane in height, build etc. She is very lean but weighs between 45-48kgs. This is a good weight for her and sounds to be about what your dog should weigh. I fostered a rescue great Dane about a year ago that was very underweight (looked remarkably like the OP's dog in build). She was with me for 10 days and gained 8kgs. She still had some kgs to go before being healthy but she finally had a bit of meat on her bones. I fed her 3 times a day, high calorie food. She was on eukanuba large breed puppy dry food plus eggs, cheese, natural yogurt, the highest quality dog roll I could find, sardines and the occasional bone. She was also wormed, flea treated, heart wormed, vaccinated and desexed within those 10 days. Horse 2008, your dog needs food, good food and NOW! Please take at least some of the good advice that has been given on here and get your dog healthy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Horse 2008, your dog needs food, good food and NOW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ams Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Another option for affording really good quality food is to ring around the suppliers and see if anyone sells the "end dated"or "short dated" food cheaper. In some cases you can pick up the same bag of food for almost half the price. It is just 'out of date'. Dogs don't care and it will still be way more nutritious than what you have been currently feeding him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybeece Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Mate your dog looks like he's starving because he is. It's not the weight of the food that counts but the density of calories they can use. Ditch the canned food, it's horrible stuff and an expensive way to feed a dog. Mine gets Bonnie which is $30-something for a 20kg bag and lasts a 38kg dog over a month. Mix 6 cups a day with sardines/egg/rice/chicken necks or frames/little tin of gourmet dog food/etc and you're onto a cheap winner. He costs less to feed than my 2kg kitten! He's very lean, a fussy eater and stops eating because the wind blows but still looks beautiful on this diet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I just had to read this again..... and shake my head. I think his ribs extend too far down his body, they stop his stomach from digesting much food at once. His pelvic bones stick up because of his VERY short loin, thus resulting in people telling me my dog is starving. Horse 2008 This is just not correct. At all. In any form. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andisa Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I just had to read this again..... and shake my head. I think his ribs extend too far down his body, they stop his stomach from digesting much food at once. His pelvic bones stick up because of his VERY short loin, thus resulting in people telling me my dog is starving. Horse 2008 This is just not correct. At all. In any form. Yes - very strange thing to say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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