It Has To Be Me

[Kirislin]

can someone just for interest sakes take this pic and sharpen it in another program?

Pic is just a touch soft, not too bad tho. Don't overdo the unsharp mask, that's even worse.

It's the background that is the real problem, what a mess. Hot spots & a lump of wood sprouting from the dogs nose are the real killers of the pic.

Tip is check the background before you press the button.

Good luck.

Honest I just walked outside squatted down and took the pic with no thought at all to composition I just wanted to get him in focus to see if I could produce a sharp pic.

[Linda K]

don't only look at the speed too, look at the ISO - when you are shooting with an ISO that is "manufactured" by the digital camera - ie the normal ones are 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 etc - anything in between these is the camera extrapolating the data to the created ISO (eg ISO 125, 160, 250, 320, 500, 640, 1000, 1250 etc) and so the data will already be a little more compromised than if it was shot at the normal ISO levels. I have found a difference in clarity between using them. A lot of people are also not that steady with a lens, so keeping the shutter up to 1/125 is a good start. Not all lens are also good at their widest, each lens has its own sweet spot, so it is useful to learn with each lens you have where that is (you lens may for instance be best at 2.8, so in that case don't go wider) Also, each camera has difference focusing systems, and some focal points work better than others - canon for instance is notorious for being spot on with the centre focus point, less so for the extremity ones, so again, a matter of learning which works best for your camera and then work around that.

[huga]

don't only look at the speed too, look at the ISO - when you are shooting with an ISO that is "manufactured" by the digital camera - ie the normal ones are 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 etc - anything in between these is the camera extrapolating the data to the created ISO (eg ISO 125, 160, 250, 320, 500, 640, 1000, 1250 etc) and so the data will already be a little more compromised than if it was shot at the normal ISO levels. I have found a difference in clarity between using them. A lot of people are also not that steady with a lens, so keeping the shutter up to 1/125 is a good start. Not all lens are also good at their widest, each lens has its own sweet spot, so it is useful to learn with each lens you have where that is (you lens may for instance be best at 2.8, so in that case don't go wider) Also, each camera has difference focusing systems, and some focal points work better than others - canon for instance is notorious for being spot on with the centre focus point, less so for the extremity ones, so again, a matter of learning which works best for your camera and then work around that.

I was also told this recently and it has made such a difference to the noise! I can't believe it.

[Kirislin]

I think I'd read something about the ISO regarding that before LindaK and although I didn't understand it I usually stick to 200,400,600 etc.

[anniek]

I did edit that photo - I used photoscape and clicked the sharpen button (maybe this is the trick??) , and also the auto contrast button I think it was. Then I did some vignetting thing. Im rubbish at that stuff so like how I can just click a few buttons and be done :D

I found the exif button in photoscape and this is what it had (I couldn't copy and paste for some reason so did a screenshot)

Hey Wags - just had a look at photoscape - am I rght in saying that you cannot edit raw images in there - only jpegs?

It has some interesting stuff, but I seem to have multiple editing programs and keep going round in circles trying to do everything on one.

[wagsalot]

Im not sure - I don't shoot raw so haven't tried to use it for that. I only started using it a few weeks back so don't really know all that much about it just yet

[Bellatrix]

My attempt sharpening it in photoshop.

[Kirislin]

thanks bella