How Do You Train 2 Dogs At Dog Clubs?

[heroeswit]

I'm looking at importing 2 dogs a male and female but I was wondering how people get around obedience/ conformation training with 2 or more dogs.

[freundhund]

Very simple I trained one for 10 - 15 minutes then swapped over and trained the other. For long sits and downs I would do one in the class one week and the next the other week.

I would also crate or stake out the one not being trained. I never found it to be a problem, I got thru and titled a brother and sister in UD being trained together.

[heroeswit]

Very simple I trained one for 10 - 15 minutes then swapped over and trained the other. For long sits and downs I would do one in the class one week and the next the other week.

I would also crate or stake out the one not being trained. I never found it to be a problem, I got thru and titled a brother and sister in UD being trained together.

did you do the 10-15min why at dog club or while at home? was the club ok with you changing dogs

[freundhund]

Lol, I trained with several dog clubs, I never asked if it was okay, I just did it, I assumed it was okay and no one ever queried me. At that time I trained Saturdays, Sundays and at least one week night. Also trained the same 2 dogs thru 3 pregnancies. so clubs had to put up with me and the babies as well.

Only person who ever complained complained at a show about me breast feeding a baby they thought that was disgusting, 25 years later I still laugh about it.

[Rozzie]

I did two dogs at once. One was crated while the other trained. There was never any drama when they were in different classes, and once they caught up I would do half a class withone and the other half with the other. The club had no dramas with it. In fact, there were quite a few people training multiple dogs.

[wuffles]

Our club has obedience classes on two different days. I take one of my dogs on Thursdays and the other on Sundays.

[tlc]

Sometimes I take two and do a bit with each one. When they were younger and in different classes it was good as I just did each class.

My training school doesn't mind as I am a volunteer trainier so I have to fit training my dogs in with classes.

[BMAK]

depending on the ages of the two dogs you are importing it is quite easy to train both dogs on the same day at the same club. i do this, as well as some times do allocate one dog for training one day and bring the other next time during the week if they need extra training on certain things like stays, jumping and retrieving

[OSoSwift]

I crate one while training the other.

I do my own thing anyway and whilst they are in particular classes (now the same on) I train one then the other then swap. If one needs to do stand for exams for example I slot in class for that then go on my merry way. Sometimes I do some agility in the middle of obedience work, then some tricks - whatever takes my fancy really. I do not interfere with the classes but slot in to my class when they happen to be doing something I wish to do.

[becks]

I train one, do the homework with both and take the other dog to the next class.

these days I need to find out how to do obedience and agility when the classes are at separate clubs on the same day and time

[The Ark]

I train one, do the homework with both and take the other dog to the next class.

these days I need to find out how to do obedience and agility when the classes are at separate clubs on the same day and time

When you work that one out, becks, please let me know!

I usually have a few dogs on the go, and one session each at an obedience training morning is enough for each dog (especially if they are youngsters, so they don't sour). You just have to do the homework, which is easy enough because you can work them separately in your own time.

[newfsie]

we have two starting times at our club.........I sometimes train three dogs, I will often bring a dog down to a lower class and do half classes with the others. And I have asked people to do sit/stays for me. it also works for when you enter two dogs in the same trial.

one of our dogs goes into the obedience Demo Team with different handlers, she is quite good, once the handler knows how to let her know what they want. She is just a confident happy dog. The only one who does not get handled by other people is my previously dog/people aggressive dog. because i just feel that even though she has been totally reliable, i am much more aware of her environment and make sure that everything is safe........he is counter conditioned and I do not necessarily trust other people to be that aware all the time.

[espinay2]

From an instructors point of view, training both dogs at once in the same class will only work if you make sure you do the work at home with both dogs as well as in the more distracting environment of the class etc and ensure that one dog does not distract the other. I am hesitant to let most people chop and change with two dogs in a class as I have found they don't always keep up the work with both, the dogs have different needs, and these needs can't always be addressed by chopping and changing in class and owners and/or the other dog can be distracted by the dog which is not being worked with. It is also not fair on other people attending the class if the instructor is giving you double attention for the two dogs and working through any issues etc (particularly when only paying one training fee). Training two dogs in the same class does usually require more attention from the instructor.

The only time I have seen this really work well is with an experienced owner/handler if they keep up the work with both dogs, and are less 'needy' of instructor attention. This tends to work best in later classes when the dogs have a reasonable degree of training already as well. For a situation where you are bonding with a new dog, or have a new pup or young dog with less experience, or are less experienced yourself, then I strongly recommend separate classes.

The separate classes don't necessarily need to be on separate days IMO if they can be taken on the same day (though usually this only works if the dogs are at different levels). There is benefit in completely separate training sessions though if this can be managed as they get used to going out on their own with you, get important one on one bonding time, and dont get distracted by the presence of kennel mates so can focus on other things instead.

Training more than one dog at once does mean more work. If you really cant do more than one session, I recommend taking one dog to one session (usually 8 weeks or so?), working with the other dog at home (and out and about), then when the first dog moves up into a higher class, start a class with the second dog. This is generally what I have done in the past (different dogs in different level classes), though the ages of my dogs have generally allowed me to do this easily. I will admit have haven't personally tried to start two off at the same time.

[newfsie]

From an instructors point of view, training both dogs at once in the same class will only work if you make sure you do the work at home with both dogs as well as in the more distracting environment of the class etc and ensure that one dog does not distract the other. I am hesitant to let most people chop and change with two dogs in a class as I have found they don't always keep up the work with both, the dogs have different needs, and these needs can't always be addressed by chopping and changing in class and owners and/or the other dog can be distracted by the dog which is not being worked with. It is also not fair on other people attending the class if the instructor is giving you double attention for the two dogs and working through any issues etc (particularly when only paying one training fee). Training two dogs in the same class does usually require more attention from the instructor.

The only time I have seen this really work well is with an experienced owner/handler if they keep up the work with both dogs, and are less 'needy' of instructor attention. This tends to work best in later classes when the dogs have a reasonable degree of training already as well. For a situation where you are bonding with a new dog, or have a new pup or young dog with less experience, or are less experienced yourself, then I strongly recommend separate classes.

The separate classes don't necessarily need to be on separate days IMO if they can be taken on the same day (though usually this only works if the dogs are at different levels). There is benefit in completely separate training sessions though if this can be managed as they get used to going out on their own with you, get important one on one bonding time, and dont get distracted by the presence of kennel mates so can focus on other things instead.

Training more than one dog at once does mean more work. If you really cant do more than one session, I recommend taking one dog to one session (usually 8 weeks or so?), working with the other dog at home (and out and about), then when the first dog moves up into a higher class, start a class with the second dog. This is generally what I have done in the past (different dogs in different level classes), though the ages of my dogs have generally allowed me to do this easily. I will admit have haven't personally tried to start two off at the same time.

I must admit I should have clarified that our dogs are trialling and we work hard at home on them. Two older ones are at a very similar level and they are the ones I swap. I think it could be very negative and disruptive to a class if dogs are very different and maybe carry on when the others are being worked

[Pretty Miss Emma]

At our dog club we would encourage someone with 2 dogs to train them separately in different classes. Giving each dog the full attention for the length of the class. But I also expect that people training in my classes are working in a manner appropriate to them, just because you are training your dog in class 2 doesn't mean that it has to do ONLY what is expected in class 2. I have some people who I know have dogs that have been in higher classes at other dog clubs and I will tell them to extend themselves if they would like to, etc. Just as some people/dogs are still new to the level so they may be working at a slightly lesser level of expectation than others in the class.

As I instruct during one of the 2 sessions at our dog club I can only train in the other time, which is sometimes the level below the class my dog is actually in. But I think it is also good for her/us to take a step back and revisit the lower level class. And it also gives me time to focus on training other things with her.

If you were at our dog club I would suggest having a good dialogue with the instructors so that they understand your needs and that you may be training a dog in a class that is usually at a higher level, that way hopefully they can adjust to help you out as best they can.

[dancinbcs]

I never train any dog for more than 10-15 min at a time so changing dogs and classes is not a problem. I used to train up to four (at different levels) on the one night just joining onto the end of the class line when they where doing something interesting, then dropping out of class the minute that dog started to lose interest. You just have to make sure you don't disrupt the class.

The further I progressed the less I used classes anyway, prefering to have some private lessons with a top trainer than train my dogs at the dog club on my own with the other dogs around to act as a distraction. I really only joined the classes for the stay exercises.

If you want a really good heeling dog the worst thing you can do is join in endless heeling drills in a class. Your dog will never be required to heel among other dogs in a trial and it just causes them to lose concentration and learn to lag. Short intense training sessions are much more effective in producing a reliable trial dog, than hour long classes.

[Tiggy]

I never train any dog for more than 10-15 min at a time so changing dogs and classes is not a problem. I used to train up to four (at different levels) on the one night just joining onto the end of the class line when they where doing something interesting, then dropping out of class the minute that dog started to lose interest. You just have to make sure you don't disrupt the class.

The further I progressed the less I used classes anyway, prefering to have some private lessons with a top trainer than train my dogs at the dog club on my own with the other dogs around to act as a distraction. I really only joined the classes for the stay exercises.

If you want a really good heeling dog the worst thing you can do is join in endless heeling drills in a class. Your dog will never be required to heel among other dogs in a trial and it just causes them to lose concentration and learn to lag. Short intense training sessions are much more effective in producing a reliable trial dog, than hour long classes.

[OSoSwift]

I never train any dog for more than 10-15 min at a time so changing dogs and classes is not a problem. I used to train up to four (at different levels) on the one night just joining onto the end of the class line when they where doing something interesting, then dropping out of class the minute that dog started to lose interest. You just have to make sure you don't disrupt the class.

The further I progressed the less I used classes anyway, prefering to have some private lessons with a top trainer than train my dogs at the dog club on my own with the other dogs around to act as a distraction. I really only joined the classes for the stay exercises.

If you want a really good heeling dog the worst thing you can do is join in endless heeling drills in a class. Your dog will never be required to heel among other dogs in a trial and it just causes them to lose concentration and learn to lag. Short intense training sessions are much more effective in producing a reliable trial dog, than hour long classes.

totally agree. Mine do short bursts of heeling then I may rest them, do something else or swap dogs. I do not interefere with any of the other classes but do pop into my actual class level from time to time.

My favourite saying is heeling (in a trial) is not a group exercise

[Erny]

Mine do short bursts of heeling then I may rest them, do something else or swap dogs. I do not interefere with any of the other classes but do pop into my actual class level from time to time.

My favourite saying is heeling (in a trial) is not a group exercise

I agree. In fact even if it is not the heel, short bursts for training purposes is best.

The thing with classes is that most people come along because it is THEY who are learning and I (generally speaking) find that the human component needs a bit more time walking/doing before s/he catches on and works out the co-ordination they need. I think class is for the humans to learn and that it is better if they really worry about teaching what they've learnt to their dogs when they are at home.

Having said that, we tend to work and emphasise position training for 'heel' first and foremost, before we introduce the walking component and we do not do drill work. Even then, trying to keep owners down to only walking (eg) 3 steps and then release their dogs from the heel position is really difficult. By walking more steps gives people more time to think.

I notice this also even in basic exercises such as "sit". I might ask people to "sit" their dog and the common response is for people to walk around with their dog a bit before they sit them.

It is a different kettle of fish for people who know what they want with their dogs and know how to achieve it and to be using a class not so much for instruction but as a proofing environment for their dogs. But to instruct people who are jumping in and out of class with different dogs would not be easy and I would trust that those people would not be expecting the sort of dedicated instruction that they might otherwise receive if they were only working with one dog for the class duration.

Edited January 3, 2011 by Erny

[JulesP]

I would probably avoid having both dogs in the same class at the same time with different handlers. It usually doesn't go well at the beginning.