Dog Attack

[Teebs]

In the snapping spinning melee that is a dog fight, how this is to be accomplished defeats me.

no way i could have done it when my guys got stuck into it I did have two leads sitting on the desk, but there was no way of getting them on the dogs!

I was lucky that I had a chair to pin one of the dogs down, and able to get the other off, but had i been out in the yard and not in the computer room, I would not have had anything to use (not even a hose, thanks to Kaos eating it!)

[dee lee]

In the snapping spinning melee that is a dog fight, how this is to be accomplished defeats me.

Sadly, I agree.

When my DA dog was just starting her "antisocial behaviour" she got into a couple of situations where she behaved like the SBTs in Lablover's story (a couple, because the first time I was told by a bull breed owner that she was just playing . 2nd time was the last ever. Luckily no damage. ).

It was nigh on impossible to get near her, let alone get a hold of her, she was moving so fast, pulling and shaking the other dog. She was a thin, young staffy x up against a much larger boxer who was unable to get away from her.

It took quite a while for me to get close enough to her and she was completely ignoring me- in the "zone". Luckily she was enjoying herself, not intent on killing or it would have all been over by then. :D

When I did get hold of her all I could do was grab her by the collar and hold it up til she choked and let go of the other dogs' neck.

She was never let off lead again.

Edited December 8, 2010 by ✽deelee

[corvus]

Who cares how to accomplish it? Nothing is going to work for every fight. Obviously you're not going to stand around windmilling staffies with a leash going "how's this gonna work...?" You'd use it where it was appropriate, like you would any piece of information.

[abed]

I fear not so much for my dogs when out walking, but certainly for any off leash aggressor that wants to take on three mature SBT's.

If I'm by myself , I will attempt to sink the boot in before any other dog gets near mine. Failing that, once a fight has started, I'm dropping my leashes and mine can choose to run away or fight, while I find something suitable to dispose of the aggressor with.

Walking 3 mature SBT's is a quite a defensive force against an attacking dog, but it reminds me of a security guy I knew once who was over confident walking his protection trained GSD thinking his dog was untouchable. An off leash ACD X nailed the GSD one night saved by millimetres nearly lost an eye with nasty gashes that required stitching up at the vets. The GSD stood it's ground and growled but by that time it had been badly bitten and didn't fight back. The GSD's handler kicked the other dog off and it ran away. Had some thugs attacked the guy, his GSD would have done a good protection routine, but with a dog attack, you wouldn't really imagine a hardened highly trained protection dog would come off 2nd best.

[spitzbaby]

all these talks about dog attacks are scaring me...

My first reaction seeing a dog coming to charge would probably be to lift my dog up.. not sure if that's a good idea at all.. now I have to make sure I remember some of this tips just in case..

there was some sort of bull breed rushing over the other day.. off leash near traffic.. no re-call nothing whatsoever... the excuse was she's just a puppy and only wants to play coming from someone who can't control the dog??? not sure if that's something I'd believe.

Edited December 8, 2010 by spitzbaby

[Sandra777]

but with a dog attack, you wouldn't really imagine a hardened highly trained protection dog would come off 2nd best.

Sorry - I really don't know what to make of this. A "highly trained protection dog" is trained to protect it's handler or property from PEOPLE. They don't go to a dog fighting ring boot camp!

I would imagine that in many circumstances a protection dog which is highly dog reactive would be a big fail - for example Police work where dogs may need to be close together in crowd control situations, highly charged, very excited if they turned around and had a go at each other that really wouldn't be in the job description would it.

[abed]

but with a dog attack, you wouldn't really imagine a hardened highly trained protection dog would come off 2nd best.

Sorry - I really don't know what to make of this. A "highly trained protection dog" is trained to protect it's handler or property from PEOPLE. They don't go to a dog fighting ring boot camp!

I would imagine that in many circumstances a protection dog which is highly dog reactive would be a big fail - for example Police work where dogs may need to be close together in crowd control situations, highly charged, very excited if they turned around and had a go at each other that really wouldn't be in the job description would it.

The point is, people with large or presumed tough dogs don't always take adequate precautions to protect their dogs from possible injury from attack on the basis that their dog can handle it's self which owners of working breeds often express that. The incident I mentioned, the GSD owner saw the other dog running around loose and barking, but preceeded to walk past the dog with a false sense of security that his protection trained dog would sort things out and didn't need to be cautious of the other dog especially being a lot smaller than his GSD also???

From this incident, I always tell people owning presumed tough dogs that off leash dogs can attack and cause injuries and regardless how tough they think their dog is, off leash dogs are best avoided where possible.

[poodlefan]

Abed:

The point is, people with large or presumed tough dogs don't always take adequate precautions to protect their dogs from possible injury from attack on the basis that their dog can handle it's self which owners of working breeds often express that.

If owners of 'working breeds' think that their dogs will be any match for a fit, aroused dog of fighting ancestry then they are clearly deluded.

"Smaller" dogs have lower centres of gravity and better proximity to the areas that disable a dog - namely the legs.

Clearly some 'working dog' owners need to pull their heads out of the sand and realise that their dogs aren't designed for fighting other dogs.

[abed]

Abed:

The point is, people with large or presumed tough dogs don't always take adequate precautions to protect their dogs from possible injury from attack on the basis that their dog can handle it's self which owners of working breeds often express that.

If owners of 'working breeds' think that their dogs will be any match for a fit, aroused dog of fighting ancestry then they are clearly deluded.

"Smaller" dogs have lower centres of gravity and better proximity to the areas that disable a dog - namely the legs.

Clearly some 'working dog' owners need to pull their heads out of the sand and realise that their dogs aren't designed for fighting other dogs.

It's alarming the amount of working dog owners who have high expectations of their dog's ability to defend against other dogs.

[bulldogz4eva]

Abed:

The point is, people with large or presumed tough dogs don't always take adequate precautions to protect their dogs from possible injury from attack on the basis that their dog can handle it's self which owners of working breeds often express that.

If owners of 'working breeds' think that their dogs will be any match for a fit, aroused dog of fighting ancestry then they are clearly deluded.

"Smaller" dogs have lower centres of gravity and better proximity to the areas that disable a dog - namely the legs.

Clearly some 'working dog' owners need to pull their heads out of the sand and realise that their dogs aren't designed for fighting other dogs.

It's alarming the amount of working dog owners who have high expectations of their dog's ability to defend against other dogs.

Yes and better they realise that 'work' doesnt equate to the same thing.Unless they were bred for it when it comes to dog on dog they will come up short.

[bulldogz4eva]

In those situations I find a gun works best.lol.Seriously you can beat them,kick them and yell and scream all you want use a hose it will do nothing.

I find a cattle prod is the easiest and most effective.

lol yeah because we all walk around with guns and cattle prods.....

the question was asked "What would you do in a similar situatiuon and I answered.Thats me.the gun bit was said tongue in cheek or maybe not.Where I live if dogs are on your property and attackng something that belongs to me they take a dirt nap.Simple.

Cattle prods i have found over the years are the most effective thing in breaking up a dog fight.You can take that anyway you like and no we dont all walk around with them and neither do I.I have one near my back door for such occasions.We dont all own the same dogs now do we.I can tell you from experience when youi have dogs hell bent on causing harm to each other and they are dogs that have been bred for it all of the techniiques mentioned here do not work.Choking dogs out is more effective if you can get somethin into their collar and do it with out a strange dog turning on you and biting you.Tieing dogs out and breaking them off works as well if you have a breaking stick but we dont all carry one do we.I have broken up my fair share and can tell you with 100% certainty that sticking you r finger up their bum,using them as whirly bird,walking them backwards does nothing but aggitate them.You can beat them with a brick,some of them would rather die than let go.That is just a sad fact of reality.

[newfsie]

I have once had to pull a Bull terrier of his own Springer Spaniel Housemate in the Kennel we were running many years ago. we luckily had a running hose nearby and we nearly drowned the Bull Terrier, before he would let go. Two people, including my hubby, were unable to pull him off. They had lived together for years. We have no idea what set him off, possibly stress, but the owners did not want him back. he was PTS by them. The Springer was very lucky to survive, mainly due to loose skin. The thing that always amazed me that he calmed right down afterward and was very friendly towards us, even after what we did to him. I always wondered if he had a brain tumour or such.

[Teebs]

I have once had to pull a Bull terrier of his own Springer Spaniel Housemate in the Kennel we were running many years ago. we luckily had a running hose nearby and we nearly drowned the Bull Terrier, before he would let go. Two people, including my hubby, were unable to pull him off. They had lived together for years. We have no idea what set him off, possibly stress, but the owners did not want him back. he was PTS by them. The Springer was very lucky to survive, mainly due to loose skin. The thing that always amazed me that he calmed right down afterward and was very friendly towards us, even after what we did to him. I always wondered if he had a brain tumour or such.

How heartbreaking :D I would never rehome a dog for being a dog

I worked in kennels and dogs act VERY different there then they do at home, my guys can not be together at Kennels, or they will fight, where as my cats, who do not like each other here at home, love each other and snuggle together when at catteries.

that poor bully

[newfsie]

I have once had to pull a Bull terrier of his own Springer Spaniel Housemate in the Kennel we were running many years ago. we luckily had a running hose nearby and we nearly drowned the Bull Terrier, before he would let go. Two people, including my hubby, were unable to pull him off. They had lived together for years. We have no idea what set him off, possibly stress, but the owners did not want him back. he was PTS by them. The Springer was very lucky to survive, mainly due to loose skin. The thing that always amazed me that he calmed right down afterward and was very friendly towards us, even after what we did to him. I always wondered if he had a brain tumour or such.

How heartbreaking :D I would never rehome a dog for being a dog

I worked in kennels and dogs act VERY different there then they do at home, my guys can not be together at Kennels, or they will fight, where as my cats, who do not like each other here at home, love each other and snuggle together when at catteries.

that poor bully

I totally agree....We even suggested a re-home, but they would not have it. they took the dog themselves. it has happened over 25 years ago and i still find it sad

[Tatelina]

Grab the back legs and pull up and back hard and fast (not just back). If you think you will break the dog's legs you are doing it right. Obviously, some people will not be able to do this and it won't help much if two or more dogs are attacking.

Just watch out for your back when the other dog is latched on so hard you end up trying to haul 2 dogs up into the air...and then you need to keep holding them up until one gives up.

[parrotpea]

To break up a fight between two entire female SBT's, my OH used a wet towel over the face of the aggressor, as soon as they pulled back the towel went over the whole head. Dog was completely disoriented and once they were out of sight of each other they were fine. I realise it's a bit hairy to put hands near the pointy end, but it was with our own dogs, and they were really locked on so not moving and spinning much. Water, whacking them etc definitely just made things worse.

It's a bit different when it's your own dogs though as you don't want to injure them - sorry if too off topic, I realise this discussion is about random off-lead dogs attacking your own dog. Curious as to dog trainers thoughts on this technique though.

[Chipps]

Definately no expert, but here goes.....

Self preservation for me if it's dog versus dog.

1. Stand well back.

2. Watch each dog involved & decide if intervention is needed or safe.

If you absolutely must get involved (EG: Child being attacked then hook in & give it all you have) .........

Options are....

3. If it seems possible, then yes, grab attacking animal by hind hocks & attempt to swing it onto something solid (a fence, tree, bench, car or even into the ground). The idea is to break its spine or at least disable it long enough for rescue.

4. Consider scruffing from behind, dragging away, holding it face down on its side with your body on top while still scruffing. This is so risky with a short hair or dog with a firm bulky neck. I have done this successfully where a pole was unavailable with kelpies and shephards for example, mainly because they have plenty of grip & fur for scruffing, but never attempted it with a staffy or similar tighter nape.

5. The choke method works, but my god, has anyone actually tried it on an unknown aggressive dog? The technique is learned skill and requires a lot of dexterity and strength. For example: They use it with police belgian shepherds to release a capture, but those are trained animals being handled by professionals.

6. If second person is helping, ask them to wait till dog is removed, then hug/ protect the child/person as still & quietly as possible. there are so many variables here, so it's difficult to say if it's safe to move away, or just sit tight. Won't be pleasant waiting, but it's your best chance.

Ok, I'll shoosh now & sorry for any spelling errors

Edited December 12, 2010 by Chipps

[Kempe]

I'm lucky that in all my life of owning dogs have never been attacked, but I am ultra cautious.

If I see a dog off leash I always walk the other way to avoid it just in case, I even avoid on leash dogs if the handler doesnt give signs of controlling the dog, like obviously been to training by how they walk the dog, hold the leash etc., you can usually tell by monitoring them as they are walking towards you.

If something vicious did happen I dont think a lot of the ideas in here would work with the speed and ferocity of an attack.

Hitting with a stick would work but would need accuracy to get the correct spot, kicking would work but in the chest, not ribs, all difficult to achieve in the heat of the moment.

And when I take my dog offleash to the beach or park I have a tennis ball and racquet with me :-)