boxagirl Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Ok, I have just started obedience training my husky so he is pretty much a clean slate. Been doing mostly heelwork, sits and stays.. and now I've decided to start tackling the drop/down. Problem is, he drops to the floor (very quickly and enthusiastically- which I encourage) but seems to flop his rear legs out the side at the same time. It just looks untidy- and results in his drops not being as close to left leg as I'd like. My Boxer natually has a nice clean drop position, with all 4 legs underneath her. How can I change Wolfs drop style, and make it abit tidier? (This is what I want) And this is how he drops Edited November 4, 2010 by boxagirl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erny Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 All assuming his hips are ok and there is nothing physical which makes it awkward or uncomfortable for him to drop into that position ..... go back to the beginning of drop using lure or guide/show/place (or a combo of each). Really high value rewards for the correct position. I find training in drive is a method that can elicite the drop position you seek, as the dogs tend to want to be in a position where they are wired and ready to release into their drive reward (generally tug). If you've done much of "drop" with what I call the "flipped hip" position, you might need to change your command to something else (eg. floor; deck; whatever). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxagirl Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 Thanks Erny. I think his hips are ok, he has never shown and signs of soreness and I have seen him lay down how I want him to (generally when he is playing with the other dogs in his backyard.. and as you said ready to spring up and go and play) I haven't done much drop training with him as yet, and I'm still in the luring stage, so I'll attempt to lure him to drop how I want, and only reward the nice ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staranais Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) I'd give the dropped hip position a name, and the proper sphinx down a name. We use "on your side" and "down". I think giving both a name helps the dog understand they're different. ETA, also as Erny says, if I'm working my girl in drive she naturally does a sphinx down as she's waiting to spring back up & get the toy or do something else for me. Dropped hip down is more of a relaxed position for her. Edited November 4, 2010 by Staranais Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rantino Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 How are you teaching him to drop? Teaching from the stand and luring down between his front legs and back towards his rear, a bit like a bow but with rear end down, will cuase him to fold up backwards and be in the type of tidy drop you are looking for. I also agree with Ernie that giving the other position a different command(name) so therefore Wolfe learns the difference between drop (sphinx position) and down (casual hip over postion). Personally I use "down" command for stays (already relaxed position) and "drop" (sphinx, tidy) for the heeling and find it works really well. Good Luck Cheers Leanne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvus Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 I would try microshaping it, if you marker train. I'd be looking for weight centred and marking before he flops over and then tossing the treat away from him so he has to get back up to get it before he can flip over on his hip. I would think you'd be able to shape a tidy drop inch by inch that way, but it might be hard to work the speed back into it. You might be able to mark the right position without microshaping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tassie Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 How are you teaching him to drop?Teaching from the stand and luring down between his front legs and back towards his rear, a bit like a bow but with rear end down, will cuase him to fold up backwards and be in the type of tidy drop you are looking for.I also agree with Ernie that giving the other position a different command(name) so therefore Wolfe learns the difference between drop (sphinx position) and down (casual hip over postion). Personally I use "down" command for stays (already relaxed position) and "drop" (sphinx, tidy) for the heeling and find it works really well. Good Luck Cheers Leanne + 1 :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxagirl Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 How are you teaching him to drop?Teaching from the stand and luring down between his front legs and back towards his rear, a bit like a bow but with rear end down, will cuase him to fold up backwards and be in the type of tidy drop you are looking for. I also agree with Ernie that giving the other position a different command(name) so therefore Wolfe learns the difference between drop (sphinx position) and down (casual hip over postion). Personally I use "down" command for stays (already relaxed position) and "drop" (sphinx, tidy) for the heeling and find it works really well. Good Luck Cheers Leanne I have been teaching it from a sit position and a stand position. Will concentrate on the stand/down from now on. I do like the idea of having a different drop for heelwork and stays! I would try microshaping it, if you marker train. I'd be looking for weight centred and marking before he flops over and then tossing the treat away from him so he has to get back up to get it before he can flip over on his hip. I would think you'd be able to shape a tidy drop inch by inch that way, but it might be hard to work the speed back into it. You might be able to mark the right position without microshaping Thanks Corvus. I have just started clicker training with him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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