Playing Tug With A Dog

[Mason_Gibbs]

I have been trying to play tug with my dog before we do obedience training - the trouble is that he wont just grab the tug and start playing I have to really swing it around, run around with it etc otherwise he is just not interested. What is now happening is that he keeps grabbing my hands by mistake and I am getting injured as his teeth are sharp - he lets go as soon as he feels that he has my hand but its SORE!!

Any suggestions? SHould I maybe try something else with him game wise?

BTW it makes no difference how long the tug is - I have one thats nearly a meter long but he still wants the part i am holding.

[poodlefan]

Honestly?

Stop playing tug. Find another method of motivating the dog.

[Aidan]

In that case I'd say he has learned to do it (for whatever reason), and it's not really a game of tug. Without seeing it, I'd probably suggest you err on the side of caution and stop playing for now. Google "flirt pole" which might be a better option for you, and would give him a chance to learn to grab the toy. Make sure you teach him to "out" as well, otherwise it could be a really tedious game. Try food to teach the "out".

[persephone]

Agreed- why do it? Use food/praise and see how you go? Or try clickerwork - this works for some dogs

[Mason_Gibbs]

Agreed- why do it? Use food/praise and see how you go? Or try clickerwork - this works for some dogs

Yes he works well with food and clicker but we were taught some different new methods at a seminar we went to a few weeks ago, the one thing they recommend is playing with your dog before you train. I guess I can throw a ball or frisbee for him instead but I liked the idea of the tug as its not throwing the ball away from me etc.

[poodlefan]

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason?

How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation??

[W Sibs]

I would suggest playing fetch too. Unless you want to build up his drive with tug?

www.k9pro.com.au sells training gloves.

[persephone]

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason?

How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation

??

That sounds a good plan

Also- may I suggest that

he keeps grabbing my hands by mistake

is not a case of 'bad aim' Bad aim,and suddenly realising that a human hand is in his mouth should , IMO,have been corrected by him very smartly .The fact he is still doing it suggests to me that he is enjoying whatever reaction he is getting when he does it ...and he may also be trying to remove the toy from your posession.

[Mason_Gibbs]

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason?

How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation??

He knows give, he knows most things, he is very smart etc I just battle to get him into any sort of drive mode, he is very very laid back for a lab, not very boisterous etc until he is offlead running around with other dogs he loves that but the rest of the time he is sometimes 'too chilled' and its hard to train him when he is like that. He will do anything for food so maybe I must just stick to the 2 food game. I will also chat to the senior trainer at our club and see what she recommends doing.

Edited to add - now in the hotter weather even though we train before 7 he is very hard to motivate etc

Edited October 18, 2010 by Mason2009

[persephone]

Laid back, not boisterous ...sounds PERFECT ! ( but then again I'm no dog training afficionado )

[poodlefan]

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason?

How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation??

He knows give, he knows most things, he is very smart etc I just battle to get him into any sort of drive mode, he is very very laid back for a lab, not very boisterous etc until he is offlead running around with other dogs he loves that but the rest of the time he is sometimes 'too chilled' and its hard to train him when he is like that. He will do anything for food so maybe I must just stick to the 2 food game. I will also chat to the senior trainer at our club and see what she recommends doing.

Edited to add - now in the hotter weather even though we train before 7 he is very hard to motivate etc

You can always teach him to fetch a food pouch after you throw it. Clean Run make a whole range of dog food containers you can throw.

Serious question - is he a "big" boy? What's his weight like? What sort of training methods are you using?

[Mason_Gibbs]

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason?

How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation

??

That sounds a good plan

Also- may I suggest that

he keeps grabbing my hands by mistake

is not a case of 'bad aim' Bad aim,and suddenly realising that a human hand is in his mouth should , IMO,have been corrected by him very smartly .The fact he is still doing it suggests to me that he is enjoying whatever reaction he is getting when he does it ...and he may also be trying to remove the toy from your posession.

He does realize as soon as the hand is in his mouth that he is doing something wrong and he lets go right away but then my hand is already scratched, he has huge teeth. If you knew the dog you would see that he is not doing it to be naughty or ugly, he is very submissive and gentle, I honestly believe that it is a mistake on his part.

[Mason_Gibbs]

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason?

How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation??

He knows give, he knows most things, he is very smart etc I just battle to get him into any sort of drive mode, he is very very laid back for a lab, not very boisterous etc until he is offlead running around with other dogs he loves that but the rest of the time he is sometimes 'too chilled' and its hard to train him when he is like that. He will do anything for food so maybe I must just stick to the 2 food game. I will also chat to the senior trainer at our club and see what she recommends doing.

Edited to add - now in the hotter weather even though we train before 7 he is very hard to motivate etc

You can always teach him to fetch a food pouch after you throw it. Clean Run make a whole range of dog food containers you can throw.

Serious question - is he a "big" boy? What's his weight like? What sort of training methods are you using?

His weight is good he weighs 34Kg and he is extremely fit, he has such a low heart rate that our vet and derm staff always double check his heart , they put it down to him being very fit.

[poodlefan]

Good - one thing eliminated.

What are you training him in and what methods are you using? Reason I'm asking is that one person's "very laid back" is another's "bored rigid or unmotivated".... just running down a check list.

[Mason_Gibbs]

Good - one thing eliminated.

What are you training him in and what methods are you using? Reason I'm asking is that one person's "very laid back" is another's "bored rigid or unmotivated".... just running down a check list.

I cant really put a name to the method I am using, I take little bits from here or there when I go to a seminar, read online etc - all positive reinforcement. I dont train for longer than 10 mins at a time because I dont want him to be bored etc ( we do go to class though and that is an hour but its a lot of play etc.)

Here is a recent pic showing his weight.

Edited October 18, 2010 by Mason2009

[poodlefan]

Good - one thing eliminated.

What are you training him in and what methods are you using? Reason I'm asking is that one person's "very laid back" is another's "bored rigid or unmotivated".... just running down a check list.

I cant really put a name to the method I am using, I take little bits from here or there when I go to a seminar, read online etc - all positive reinforcement. I dont train for longer than 10 mins at a time because I dont want him to be bored etc ( we do go to class though and that is an hour but its a lot of play etc.

Here is a recent pic showing his weight.

If you put the flat of your hands on his ribcage Mason, can you feel rib? He looks a tad beefy to me but I'm an agility weight fanatic. Labs should still have an obvious waist tuck.

If food is what motivates him I'd be using food for everything.

[Mason_Gibbs]

Good - one thing eliminated.

What are you training him in and what methods are you using? Reason I'm asking is that one person's "very laid back" is another's "bored rigid or unmotivated".... just running down a check list.

I cant really put a name to the method I am using, I take little bits from here or there when I go to a seminar, read online etc - all positive reinforcement. I dont train for longer than 10 mins at a time because I dont want him to be bored etc ( we do go to class though and that is an hour but its a lot of play etc.

Here is a recent pic showing his weight.

If you put the flat of your hands on his ribcage Mason, can you feel rib? He looks a tad beefy to me but I'm an agility weight fanatic. Labs should still have an obvious waist tuck.

If food is what motivates him I'd be using food for everything.

I only feed him very little a day - less than 300g mince and then training treats if we are training.

[poodlefan]

I only feed him very little a day - less than 300g mince and then training treats if we are training.

Doesn't matter how much you feed or how much he weighs Mason - he's how he feels that matters.

I hope mince isn't all you feed??

Edited October 18, 2010 by poodlefan

[Mason_Gibbs]

I only feed him very little a day - less than 300g mince and then training treats if we are training.

Doesn't matter how much you feed or how much he weighs Mason - he's how he feels that matters.

I hope mince isn't all you feed??

No he gets bones and veggies too - he is an allergy dog so his allergies dictate what he can and cant eat. He also gets eggs sardines etc about 1x a week.

BTW this thread has gone way off topic, I was asking about training yet somehow it is now about how fat my dog is and what I feed him???

[poodlefan]

I only feed him very little a day - less than 300g mince and then training treats if we are training.

Doesn't matter how much you feed or how much he weighs Mason - he's how he feels that matters.

I hope mince isn't all you feed??

No he gets bones and veggies too - he is an allergy dog so his allergies dictate what he can and cant eat. He also gets eggs sardines etc about 1x a week.

BTW this thread has gone way off topic, I was asking about training yet somehow it is now about how fat my dog is and what I feed him???

The reason I asked about weight is that fat dogs are often lethargic and unmotived to train - weight and fitness matter in these issues. Get weight off a fat dog and they often become more interested in doing things - not really rocket science but I've seen plenty of amazed owners over the years. Hard to do good heel work or agiltity as a dog when you're lugging a lot of extra kilos.

The reason I asked about what you feed is because you told me he was fed mince. Diet also affects health - this can be an issue too.

Its just my opinion but EVERYTHING matters and I always run down a "checklist" when folk say they are having trouble motivating a dog. Taking a holistic approach can sometimes throw up issues that others overlook.

What your dog does on the training paddock is affected by alot of things that happen off it.

After you eliminate physical causes for lack of motivation, the next place I look is to the owner. I'd be looking at your body language, timing, how interesting you make it for the dog and a range of other issues that are difficult to determine over the internet. I've seen plenty of handlers that are about as motivating as undertakers on the paddock. Some never time rewards well or dont' reward at all, drill the dogs into chronic boredom or just don't make it fun.

Mason I start with the premise that there's nothing inherently 'difficult' about a dog and look to the owner first. That's probably what I'd be asking your instructor about.

Edited October 18, 2010 by poodlefan