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Walking My Dog But Surrounding Dog Not On Leash


giraffez
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i can't bear to look at those wounds .... :)

I'm not sure i would like it off the lead, i was next to a very busy road and his recall is good in a normal situation but not sure about one like this. I didn't see the dog coming at all as it came from behind.... my boy saw it first and by that time it was too late.

A fire extinguisher sounds like a good idea, but i hate the thought of lagging it around with me on walks.

Maybe i should keep a squeeky ball with me. And throw it - my concern is, the dog may go and fetch it and come after us to return the ball. Maybe a device that makes a loud noise will be the answer....

Edited by giraffez
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If I think another dog is going to have a go at me or mone(keep in mind I walk 4 at once, from tiny to large size) the only way I have of fending off an attack is to take the lead off the big dog, and use the clip as a weapon. I can hang onto his collar and the leads of the other dogs in one hand and swing hte other lead in my other hand, makes a hell of a thunk on the top of a dogs head when I have it going...... I have been known to use the lead made especially for him (d-shackle, length of chain and a clip) when just walking him, amazing what it will stop if my adrenaline is going...

Mind you I also have a 'i'm serious voice' that usually stops any dogs in thier tracks, has been known to make a few owners back up as well.

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...if we ever have dogs come up to us and the dogs are on leash, I make a judgement call and if I decide the dog looks friendly and is not displaying any signs of agressive behaviour I let the leads loose and let my lot say hello and it's all good. Otherwise if we see a not so friendly looking dog I will avoid or also boot if I had to (have never had to so far) My oldest dog is a very good judge of doggy character and usually if the approaching dog is not friendly I wil be able to tell by Coopers body language before I get to judge for myself.

This is also what I try to do - except if the body language is bad I move in front of my dogs and tell the approaching dog to go home in my most assertive voice.

Trouble is that since having had a couple of pairs of off leash and unaccompanied dogs split up and run around me to have a go at mine, I am less confident about most dogs being low risk and in my capacity to chase them off if they are aggressive.

Which means I am expecting trouble and reflect that down the lead - so my most closely bonded dog thinks she needs to step up and see them off herself. It's easy to see her point of view, she had to physically see off the pair of GSDs who ignored my best efforts and the last pair of JRTs didn't listen to me either.

It's a feedback loop of my own making, I need to get back to relaxing and taking control - but gee it's hard after a couple of bad experiences. Some days it's an effort to get out and walk, because I am expecting to run into loose dogs.

Edited by Diva
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I hate having to deal with off leash dogs on walks when yours is on lead, it is so stressful :)

I try to avoid the dogs meeting if possible - if an option I walk away, change direction, cross the road. If not possible I try to scare the other dog off and keep my dog on a short lead close to me. I will certainly put the boot in if necessary, or use my lead to swing at the other dog.

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Someone from a similar thread a while ago suggested using an umbrella to shield both you and your dog to distract the rushing dog. My pup is almost ready for his first walk, so I'm bearing this idea in mind.

If all else fails, a good boot to the jaw should suffice.

Hi,

yes I have found the umbrella is really handy and have used it once and it works ! Gave the hopeless owner something to think about while her great big dog stopped in his tracks on the way to rushing my smaller dog.

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Someone from a similar thread a while ago suggested using an umbrella to shield both you and your dog to distract the rushing dog. My pup is almost ready for his first walk, so I'm bearing this idea in mind.

If all else fails, a good boot to the jaw should suffice.

Great i think i'll carry one of these however I'm going to get some odd looks carrying one of these on a hot summers day! :laugh:

Maybe i should get a bike horn... http://shop.goeasyonline.com.au/store/air-...-bulb-type.html

If i need to boot the dog, where should i aim?

Edited by giraffez
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If i need to boot the dog, where should i aim?

I have no experience so I can't say, but this article suggests a few techniques. I'm going to quote a section relevant to the topic because I think it's worth reading:

Source: 'Dog Attack!' by Lloyd Duhaime

As there will never likely be a law which can effectively prohibit idiots from owning dogs, dog attacks can and will happen. Here's some tips to protect yourself:

  • Avoid eye contact with an aggressive dog.

  • If you are jogging, stop jogging and walk by the dog, avoiding eye contact and sudden movement.

  • Avoid the temptation to rebuke the owner of an aggressive dog for allowing their menacing and unleashed dog to remain in your direct path. Aggressive dogs are often a reflection of their owner's character. If you notice the aggressive dog unleashed again, contact the police with a good description of the dog, the owner and time of day. Try to remember the dog's name if it was called during your presence.

  • If the dog runs towards you exhibiting aggressive behaviour (growling or barking), stand your ground without sudden movement. Brace yourself and command the dog as if you were its owner: "No!" "Down!" "Sit!" "Stay!" Do this repeatedly. Do not raise your hands in a fight stance prematurely as this may antagonize the dog and you might lose your one chance at stopping the attacking dog through commands.

  • If the dog is small and presents no danger for your neck area, you may want to try to kick it. A good blow to the nose or to the body will stop most small dogs.

  • If a large dog attacks, take a fight stance with one leg in front of the other to maximize balance and protect your inner body. If you are athletic, you may want to use your foot as a primary weapon. This response could mean jeopardizing your balance. Should you fall, you lose your height advantage to a dog.

  • Special note for pit bulls: these dogs can be unusually aggressive. Some experts recommend that the best response to an attacking pit bull is to fall to the ground, roll into a ball with your chin tucked in and cover your face, ears and backs of your neck with your hands. Keep your knees pulled up into your chest. The idea is to play dead and hope that the dog will give up the attack. {Editor's note: we have received many e-mails on this topic. Typical is the following: "When (pit bulls attack) a person or other animal, their first instinct is to grab ... and hold on. If laying down on the ground, there is a higher possibility of the dog biting in to a fatal spot. Standing upright is a much better strategy."}

  • A large dog may lunge for your throat. Protect this area of your body first and foremost with your arm tucked into your throat as far as you can without pulling back.

  • Punch the dog on the nose as hard as you can. Twist or pull the dog's ears. The dog's eyes are another soft spot which you should attack if required to defend yourself. Another stregy is to kick the dog in the rib cage. This will wind it and could stun it enough to ward off any more attacks. Yell for help.

  • If you frequently encounter stray or aggressive dogs, pepper spray or electronic whistles (adjusted at a frequency to cause dog's extreme discomfort) are inexpensive and excellent safeguards against dog attack.

  • If an attacking dog appears to be aimlessly wandering, biting at stationery objects, wild-eyed or with a thick ropy saliva covering it's chest, it may have rabies. Note that dogs may have rabies even if not exhibiting these symptoms so in all cases of dog bites especially if the skin has been broken, seek medical attention immediately. Rabies is a universally fatal disease if left untreated. You must first ensure that the dog is quarantined and observed for symptoms of rabies. Don't try to corral the dog yourself; call the police. If you have any doubts about rabies, consult a doctor for possible anti-rabies injections.

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Wopuld also add teach your own dog to stand behind you on command - they should never be making the decision on what to do about an approaching dog YOU should be. If you break an approaching dogs gaze on your dog to look at you it makes a huge difference.

I got to the stage with two uncontrolled dogs after the 3rd or 4th time they charged us that I charged them - shih tzus and they were going to get the 'boot' treatment if I got near them. Got within a metre and they spun and ran. BUt they were small and I meant business - owner thought it was funny that his little dogs bailed up big dogs so I wasnt worried about him. Think the ranger must have finally caught up with him and given him some advice on dogs being on leads and under control.

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I have no experience so I can't say, but this article suggests a few techniques. I'm going to quote a section relevant to the topic because I think it's worth reading:

Thanks for that. I'm going to google the electronic whistle. I can't imagine myself booting another dog.

I found this:

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...n/product/L7202

You reckon 100db is enough to deter a dog?

Edited by giraffez
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I would never drop my dog's lead so she could flee, unless I had in order to defend myself.

The first dog to attack her was a whippet, she had no hope of out running it. Another dog that decided she was food was some sort of Egyptian Hunting hound type mix - again no hope of out running that. And the long legged bully breeds - it's a toss up - who'd win at running. A fleeing dog - like a fleeing cat - invites chase and aggression. Much better - in my opinion to stand your ground and make your dog stay with you where you can defend it. A whippet is well within my capability and hers - even if she doesn't know it.

Every time she has run away from me and the aggressive dog, I've been unable to help her. Not something I want to allow or encourage.

That stuff about picking up back legs and all "K9" handlers - WTF? Not all dog trainers make the same recommendations. And most that I know recommend staying out of dog fights unless you're willing to risk being attacked and bitten yourself. Of course if was my dog being attacked - I'm willing to have a go. But I try yelling first. Has worked on all the big dogs (and their owners) so far. It's only that one particular whippet, that I rate as bonkers and very unwhippet like in temperment, that I had to hit.

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