Whelping Essentials And Birthing "intervention"

[LizT]

Okay, well my bitch has been holding her cards close to her chest for the last 30 days but now we have some serious 'nipple development' and some tummy swelling too.

So my "mental check list', that I've been researching for what seems like 4EVA, (okay over a year) needs to become a reality. I've looked at whelping supplies lists (books and websites) and alot of the stuff I have or can get fairly easily but not everything so I am thinking I need to get a hemostat, do I need a suction bulb (I was quite prepared to just invert the pup for a natural drainage from lungs if it didn't make a noise first up???)

And on that note...How much intervention is appropriate for a first time mother who I have a strong bond with and who trusts me unconditionally?? I am fully prepared to be a midwife and sit through the whole thing with her but how much intervention is correct really? Should I let her do the cords and eat the placenta if she wants to? Or tie and cut myself for fear of her doing them too close? Do I trust her instincts? I want it to be a positive experience for her too.

Of course I realise intervention is sometimes essential to a positive outcome, even to the point of calling up the Vet at 3.00 am but is there a line in the sand?

What do you do?

Edited August 13, 2010 by LizT

[fifi]

LizT, If this is your first whelping experience, I think at this point having an experienced breeder /mentor with you for her first litter would be the most important addition to your whelping kit.

Nothing beats having those experienced hands and knowhow on hand.

As to intervention / assistance, a lot depends on the bitch, the breed, the whelping, and the neonates condition as they emerge.

I do open bags, clamp, tie off & cut cords while mum munches on the placenta. I usually towel dry & swing the pups. But with toy breeds I've assisted with, the dam has had most of the job done in seconds !

there was a great thread a while back where breeders listed their whelping essentials, someone better at searching than me might be able to find it for you.

fifi

[LizT]

LizT, If this is your first whelping experience, I think at this point having an experienced breeder /mentor with you for her first litter would be the most important addition to your whelping kit.

Nothing beats having those experienced hands and knowhow on hand.

As to intervention / assistance, a lot depends on the bitch, the breed, the whelping, and the neonates condition as they emerge.

I do open bags, clamp, tie off & cut cords while mum munches on the placenta. I usually towel dry & swing the pups. But with toy breeds I've assisted with, the dam has had most of the job done in seconds !

there was a great thread a while back where breeders listed their whelping essentials, someone better at searching than me might be able to find it for you.

fifi

Thanks Fifi

I'm getting lots of "mentor/breeder advice and have a number of experienced breeders I know I can call at any time. (Hello BB and BJ)

Time being the operative word. Who knows 'when' she will choose to have the actual event. She sleeps in my room but I work night shift, which is good actually as she will never be home alone but I have a horrible vision of OH sleeping through a whelping and me coming home to a litter of pups. Oh well, so long as they're okay!

Edited August 13, 2010 by LizT

[ellz]

Time being the operative word. Who knows 'when' she will choose to have the actual event.

Temperature, temperature, temperature!

When the temperature drops SUDDENLY by 1 degree or more, you will have puppies within 12 - 24 hours (under NORMAL circumstances!).

[LizT]

Time being the operative word. Who knows 'when' she will choose to have the actual event.

Temperature, temperature, temperature!

When the temperature drops SUDDENLY by 1 degree or more, you will have puppies within 12 - 24 hours (under NORMAL circumstances!).

Oh course, I've read that, that's why I have the thermometer!! Thanks Ellez

[Christina]

Never even thought of having a suction bulb, didn't know you could even get them for dogs.

You can swing the puppy if it is congested. Ask breeder or vet how to do it.

No need to intervene if she is managing fine. Watch like a hawk & stay with her.

Break sac if she doesn't do it quickly. Cut cord if she doesn't do it. You will need to move each puppy out of the way as she has the next one as she may crush or roll on any she has had.

Otherwise just see how she goes. She may do it all perfectly on her own.

Best of luck !st time is scary.

[SkySoaringMagpie]

LizT, If this is your first whelping experience, I think at this point having an experienced breeder /mentor with you for her first litter would be the most important addition to your whelping kit.

This is my plan!! I can't imagine attempting it alone.

[Mystiqview]

Time being the operative word. Who knows 'when' she will choose to have the actual event.

Temperature, temperature, temperature!

When the temperature drops SUDDENLY by 1 degree or more, you will have puppies within 12 - 24 hours (under NORMAL circumstances!).

Do your temperature twice a day if you can. Say 7am and 7pm or what ever time you decide to do it. If possible maybe three times closer to the day. Depending on your lines, be prepared from any day from day 60. My girls tend to go early around 60-61. Temperature is great, but it can be missed.

I use cloth nappies to dry my puppies. Perfect size and easily cleaned for next time.

Nutrigel or carnation milk to give to bitch during whelping

Brandy to revive pups if needed (and to revive owner). A drop on the tongue will make them gasp for air if you need it. I carefully shake my puppies, I have not used the suction bulb.

Oil heater (if you are unlucky enough to have central heating) or something to keep room at even temperature. Heat pads or something similar for the pups that are born

Clamps etc for cords. Although most times I pinch the cord about 2 inches away from body and then let mum chew it up to my fingers. I have only had to use the clamps once to cut it as the after birth had gone back inside after pup was clear.

But I agree. Having someone there that first time is invaluable. They can see well before we might of problems occurring.

Good luck and hope you get plenty of healthy happy puppies

[LizT]

Thanks guys, very helpful information AND I've managed to find the "Whelping Essentials" thread from back in November 2008 which I recall reading back then when I first started to think of maybe someday breeding these lovely creatures.

ALL SO VERY DIFFERENT from foaling mares, that happens so quickly and there is just the one babe to concentrate on and they are so self sufficent in comparison.

Somehow having pushed three out myself the birthing experience doesn't worry me (and I've a stack of cloth nappies that will come in very useful I think. . Still I have a very good relationship with my Vet(s) so that is a great comfort. I've probably paid for his family holidays for th past 16 years!!!

I did Bonnies temperature today to see what is 'normal' for her and she was 37.8 degrees. So should I take it daily for a few days now to see where she 'sits' at and what is normal for her and then do it twice daily during the last week?

[ellz]

LizT, I managed my first foaling down in 2008 and found it infinitely more stressful than whelping a litter.

The principles are the same. Watch carefully for signs of trouble. Make sure airways are clear. Make sure they get that first "mummy drink".

That's pretty much it.

Oh and dogs are a lot more portable. Not recommended but if need be, you can always keep them with you 24/7 when they're due to whelp and it's a LOT easier to get help if there are problems!

[Mystiqview]

Thanks guys, very helpful information AND I've managed to find the "Whelping Essentials" thread from back in November 2008 which I recall reading back then when I first started to think of maybe someday breeding these lovely creatures.

ALL SO VERY DIFFERENT from foaling mares, that happens so quickly and there is just the one babe to concentrate on and they are so self sufficent in comparison.

Somehow having pushed three out myself the birthing experience doesn't worry me (and I've a stack of cloth nappies that will come in very useful I think. . Still I have a very good relationship with my Vet(s) so that is a great comfort. I've probably paid for his family holidays for th past 16 years!!!

I did Bonnies temperature today to see what is 'normal' for her and she was 37.8 degrees. So should I take it daily for a few days now to see where she 'sits' at and what is normal for her and then do it twice daily during the last week?

Pretty much. I start doing my temps about 2 weeks out. The last week I start doing twice daily and the last few days before 63 days I do three times a day if needed. I remember one bitch, I took the temp at 6pm, 6am it had dropped and by 6pm it was back up.

If you also find out from your girls breeder, when the mother whelped (ie 61 days) that will also be a good guide to look towards. The bitch will not always do the same as the mother, but if the mother and grandmother went at 61 days, that is a good indication to start to be expecting action.

I will generally feed the bitch small amounts of lactose free milk or Biolac during whelping in preference to calcium tablets. Nutrigel is also handy if it is a big litter as a boost of energy.

[LizT]

I did Bonnies temperature today to see what is 'normal' for her and she was 37.8 degrees. So should I take it daily for a few days now to see where she 'sits' at and what is normal for her and then do it twice daily during the last week?

Pretty much. I start doing my temps about 2 weeks out. The last week I start doing twice daily and the last few days before 63 days I do three times a day if needed. I remember one bitch, I took the temp at 6pm, 6am it had dropped and by 6pm it was back up.

If you also find out from your girls breeder, when the mother whelped (ie 61 days) that will also be a good guide to look towards. The bitch will not always do the same as the mother, but if the mother and grandmother went at 61 days, that is a good indication to start to be expecting action.

I will generally feed the bitch small amounts of lactose free milk or Biolac during whelping in preference to calcium tablets. Nutrigel is also handy if it is a big litter as a boost of energy.

I just watched a "Whelping Video" and the breeder stated that the temperature dropped by about 1 degree 12 to 24 hours prior to whelping AND THEN WENT BACK UP JUST BEFORE WHELPING?? So any rise after a drop could be most confusing if it keeps going up and down!

Edited August 14, 2010 by LizT

[Cockerlover]

Have everything u will need set up @ least 2 weeks prior to yr expected whelping date ,introduce yr bitch to her new whelping suite a week or so b4 due .

Stay as calm as u can ,as yr bitch will pick up on yr feelings

Refusing food is another good indication that shes getting ready to deliver .good luck

[ellz]

I just watched a "Whelping Video" and the breeder stated that the temperature dropped by about 1 degree 12 to 24 hours prior to whelping AND THEN WENT BACK UP JUST BEFORE WHELPING?? So any rise after a drop could be most confusing if it keeps going up and down!

That is why it is best to start taking temperatures at least a week prior to the due date so that you an establish your bitches normal temperature ranges. The drop is absolutely unmistakeable when it happens. It won't be a slow creep down, it will be a SUDDEN drop. Once you know the normal ranges, anything out of the ordinary will have you on alert.

[LizT]

Have everything u will need set up @ least 2 weeks prior to yr expected whelping date ,introduce yr bitch to her new whelping suite a week or so b4 due .

Stay as calm as u can ,as yr bitch will pick up on yr feelings

Refusing food is another good indication that shes getting ready to deliver .good luck

So setting up the whelping box yesterday and letting her have a lay down in it yesterday was a bit premature eh!

It looks so cosy with it's new pink Vetbed in it. My 10 year old daughter asked why we used sheets and not that fuzzy stuff LOL.

OMG A Cavalier refusing food....that I can't wait to see!!!

Edited August 15, 2010 by LizT

[LizT]

LizT, I managed my first foaling down in 2008 and found it infinitely more stressful than whelping a litter.

The principles are the same. Watch carefully for signs of trouble. Make sure airways are clear. Make sure they get that first "mummy drink".

That's pretty much it.

Oh and dogs are a lot more portable. Not recommended but if need be, you can always keep them with you 24/7 when they're due to whelp and it's a LOT easier to get help if there are problems!

With my first foal I went down to the stable in the middle of the night to check on her as she'd 'waxed' a bit so I was expecting some action and she had her head over the stable door, I patted her and she was sweaty and I turned on the light becuase I heard a shuffling sound and there was the foal at her feet.

OH had been down an hour earlier and nothing, so I'd just missed it...they are very quick.

But yes, it's no fun putting a newborn foal in the back of a 4X4 and doing the mad rush to the Equine hospital as some friends of mine once did!

Worst problem I ever had was a retained placenta and that was easily fixed after I got some Oxytocin (and penicillin) from the Vet.

Do bitches 'wax' or drip milk prior to whelping? I haven't heard or read that they do.

[Bilbo Baggins]

Never to early with the whelping box. :D :rofl: :D

Another good book is Karen Hedberg's.

None of my cavs have ever gone off food before whelping.

[LizT]

Never to early with the whelping box. :laugh: :laugh:

Another good book is Karen Hedberg's.

None of my cavs have ever gone off food before whelping.

Bonnie has gotten so vocal at mealtimes now that it's crazy noisey whilst I make them sit/stay!!!

Crystal thinks it's all a game and joins in when usually you don't get a peep out of her!

[Cavalblaze]

Never to early with the whelping box. :laugh: :laugh:

Another good book is Karen Hedberg's.

None of my cavs have ever gone off food before whelping.

Nor did mine, she ate her breakfast and delivered at 11am. I will say that she also vommitted it back up but not all Cavaliers go off their food.

Quick tip, Cavs are great at pulling on umbilical cords and creating hernias, so put in your box something that you can place over the cord area of the pups.

Goodluck, Sway has a good whelping supply shop. http://www.whelpingsupplies.com.au/index.php

[LizT]

Never to early with the whelping box. :laugh: :laugh:

Another good book is Karen Hedberg's.

None of my cavs have ever gone off food before whelping.

Nor did mine, she ate her breakfast and delivered at 11am. I will say that she also vommitted it back up but not all Cavaliers go off their food.

Quick tip, Cavs are great at pulling on umbilical cords and creating hernias, so put in your box something that you can place over the cord area of the pups.

Goodluck, Sway has a good whelping supply shop. http://www.whelpingsupplies.com.au/index.php

Thanks Cavalblaze, I've got some self adhesive dressing I'm putting around the bubs middle to temporarily cover them so mum won't "focus' so much on it. And I've got my supplies from Swayd but she's out of Unwaxed Dental floss and all the shops only seem to stock the minty waxed kind these days. Thinking strong 100% cotton should due the trick, if I end up needing some.