FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 (edited) Hey guys/gurus, I bought my 50mm 1.8 AF lens for my Nikon D5000 the other day and so far have failed to take a single good shot with it. I have tried different settings, to no avail, my photos are always fuzzy, well nearly always. Here's the thing - even on automatic mode, it won't autofocus. Is that normal for this lens? I can't find a switch anywhere on the lens itself that turns it on unlike my other lenses (18-55 VR and 55-200 VR) which both have switches. With the other lenses attached, the camera makes a little 'bipbip' noise, focuses automatically and then takes the picture. There's no noise except for the shutter with the 50mm lens attached. What am I doing wrong?! I feel like the biggest idiot on the planet right now. ETA: Don't worry, I should just look up the manual and learn how to do it. I just don't get why the AF won't work on my 50mm. Edited July 20, 2010 by FranCQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirislin Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Not familiar with Nikon lenses but I'm assuming it doesn't have a manual/auto focus button, since you've said you cant find any buttons on it. Did you buy it from a shop? If so take it and your camera back in and get them to have a look. Can you post some pics here. Is it possible your shutter speed is too slow and so picking up camera shake? Cant think of anything else to suggest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macka Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Not familiar with Nikon but..is the lens definitely compatible with your camera or could it be DOA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macka Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Fran, just did a quick google and sorry to say the D5000 does not have an auto focus motor built into the camera body. The only lenses that will be able to auto focus on it are labeled af-s, where the motor is built into the lens. You will only be able to manual focus with that lens. I have a couple of manual focus only (cheapo) lenses and it is a bit of a challenge until you get used to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhh! That is okay macka! Thanks heaps! I am just so relieved there's not something wrong with my lens or camera! I don't mind a challenge at all I was just upset because I thought I had done something wrong! I did read that about the no auto focus motor in the D5000 but didn't really know what that meant when I read it I'm so relieved! And I feel very silly! So I will just need to focus with the focus ring on the front of the lens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Not familiar with Nikon lenses but I'm assuming it doesn't have a manual/auto focus button, since you've said you cant find any buttons on it.Did you buy it from a shop? If so take it and your camera back in and get them to have a look. Can you post some pics here. Is it possible your shutter speed is too slow and so picking up camera shake? Cant think of anything else to suggest. Thanks Kirislin! I think I need to do a crash course in using the camera somewhere. I get that there are settings like ISO, shutter speed, f stop etc but I don't know what they mean and the people I've been asking aren't explaining it well, like they tell me 'oh for this type of photo use a high ISO' or whatever but I want to know WHY. I'm going to have a good look through the document JS sent me awhile ago actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macka Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhh!That is okay macka! Thanks heaps! I am just so relieved there's not something wrong with my lens or camera! I don't mind a challenge at all I was just upset because I thought I had done something wrong! I did read that about the no auto focus motor in the D5000 but didn't really know what that meant when I read it I'm so relieved! And I feel very silly! So I will just need to focus with the focus ring on the front of the lens? Don't feel silly, these things are complicated! Yep just focus by twisting the focusing ring around on the lens. Practice twisting it slowly until you see your subject "pop" into focus. I recommend using it on still objects to start with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Yes, you'll have to manual focus. Personally, I'd take the lens back and buy one with the focus motor or upgrade my body because not having AF on a 50mm would irritate the living crap out of me The company you bought the lens from totally and complete fell down on the job if you told them you were shooting that body and they did not explain this to you. Terrible terrible customer service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 That's what I thought too actually kja. I went in to Camera House (was too excited to wait for internet delivery) and said "I would like a 50mm 1.8 lens to suit my Nikon D5000" and that is what they sold me. The AF-S is a lot more expensive but I didn't even get the choice If it would annoy a photographer like you kja how the hell am I ever going to use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx'sBuddy Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 That's what I thought too actually kja. I went in to Camera House (was too excited to wait for internet delivery) and said "I would like a 50mm 1.8 lens to suit my Nikon D5000" and that is what they sold me. The AF-S is a lot more expensive but I didn't even get the choice If it would annoy a photographer like you kja how the hell am I ever going to use it fran i would go back to the store and tell them what you said here. do it soon because if you wait too long it can make it difficult. they should sort it out for you. if they dont ask to see the manager as they should never have sold you the lens without explaining about the motor. i have a d40x that has no motor in the body and when i went to camera house the guy told me that i would be limited in the lenses i could buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Okay. I bought it less than a week ago so I'll go in this afternoon. I still have every scrap of packaging that they gave me plus the receipt and warranty. My issue is that there's no way I can afford to upgrade to the AF-S today (maybe next week).. will they just give me a credit note maybe? I'm really annoyed now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 (edited) Seriously, take it back and spring for the one with the motor. Or sell your camera body and get one where this isn't an issue. I don't know how many Nikon lenses don't have focus motors, so it might be worth looking at the other lenses on your wish list and see if it's worth upping the body. I hate that Nikon even offers this as I find it terribly confusing. They should either refund or offer you a credit note, I'd think. I'd be very annoyed, too. Edited July 20, 2010 by kja Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 But I've used the lens Won't they tell me that voids the return policy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macka Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I think I need to do a crash course in using the camera somewhere. I get that there are settings like ISO, shutter speed, f stop etc but I don't know what they mean and the people I've been asking aren't explaining it well, like they tell me 'oh for this type of photo use a high ISO' or whatever but I want to know WHY. Cameras are all about capturing light. All of the basic settings therefore relate to the way in which light enters the camera through the lens. Shutter speed refers to the length of time the shutter is open. A higher speed will mean the shutter is only open for a short amount of time and therefore only lets in a small amount of light. A lower speed lets in more light because the shutter is open for longer. The length of time the shutter is open affects the sharpness of the image. Imagine taking a photo of a waterfall. If you use a very fast shutter speed, you will be able to see individual drops of water frozen in time. If you use a slow shutter speed, the water will look silky and blurred because all those drops of water moved a long way while the shutter was open, and the camera has captured that movement. In the same way, if you are trying to photograph a dog running and your shutter speed is too slow, instead of freezing the motion of the dog and giving you a sharp image, your image may be blurred because the shutter has stayed open while the dog moved across the image. Also, if you move the camera in your hands while the shutter is open, you will blur your image (camera shake). As a general rule to avoid camera shake, your shutter speed should be at least 1/X, where X=the focal length of your lens. So if you are using a 50mm lens, your shutter speed should be at least 1/50. The faster the speed, the less chance of shake. Aperture refers to the size of the gap/hole through which light travels into the camera. A low aperture number (like f1.8) means the gap is large, therefore letting in more light. A high aperture number (like f8) means the gap is much smaller, and lets in less light. Aperture also affects which parts of the image are in focus. A big/low number aperture gives you a shallow depth of field, where your subject is sharp but the rest of the image is out of focus. A small/high number aperture increases the depth of field and allows you to get the whole scene in focus. The ISO determines the sensitivity of your camera's sensor to light. In bright, sunny conditions you do not need your camera sensor to be particularly sensitive to light because there is plenty of light around. So you should choose a low sensitivity of ISO100-200. In low light situations, you need your camera's sensor to be more sensitive to light, so you use a higher ISO. Using a high ISO allows you to use a smaller aperture/faster shutter speed than you otherwise would be able to in low light conditions. However, a higher ISO number will result in more "noise" or fuzziness in your image. This is why it is always desirable to use the lowest ISO possible in any given light situation. There is a complicated relationship between these settings - for example if you choose a small/high number aperture, your shutter speed will have to be longer in order to let in sufficient light because the gap through which the light passes is very small. But if you increase the ISO, you may be able to get away with a shorter shutter speed and still maintain a small aperture, because your sensor will be more sensitive to the available light. But your image will then have more "noise" as a trade-off! It takes time to get the hang of the settings and a camera course can be very helpful. I hope you can sort it out and get the lens that you are happy with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 macka that is the EXACT explanation that I wanted. THANK YOU SO MUCH! Ahhhh that is all making so much more sense now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx'sBuddy Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 But I've used the lens Won't they tell me that voids the return policy? nope because you bought that lens based on their advice that you have now found out that they were wrong, ie not your fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huga Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Fran - if they're going to be pains about it, I am looking to buy a 50mm 1.8 - just so you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macka Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 macka that is the EXACT explanation that I wanted. THANK YOU SO MUCH!Ahhhh that is all making so much more sense now. You're welcome. Lucky for you I am bored at work today. Now the challenge is to make yourself think about all this next time you go take a photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Fran - if they're going to be pains about it, I am looking to buy a 50mm 1.8 - just so you know Orly? I'll see what they say, I am only worried that they'll say "no you didn't" when I tell them what I asked for .. I don't trust salespeople usually, should have been more self-educated when I went in. If they are pains then I will let you know! This one has been lovingly cared for. macka that is the EXACT explanation that I wanted. THANK YOU SO MUCH!Ahhhh that is all making so much more sense now. You're welcome. Lucky for you I am bored at work today. :D Now the challenge is to make yourself think about all this next time you go take a photo. I will! I am a very visual person, I don't remember numbers or quantities, so to have a visual idea of what is going on inside my camera in order to take good shots is just incredibly helpful to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranVT Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 A girl at work told me to buy the 35mm 1.8 AF-S instead of the (quite expensive) 50mm 1.4 AF-S (there is no 1.8 AF-S). Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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