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I can tell it's excitement. Last night, Elbie did two jumps in a row, correctly jumped over the jump that was at a 90 degree angle to the other jumps, then turned right to clear the broad jump - then he bolted and did a victory lap before coming back to me. Then on another activity, he waited, then when released he ran ahead of me as instructed and cleared the 3 jumps in a row, returned to me - then he decided to celebrate by doing a victory lap. My dog is not the only dog who bolts and all of the other handlers are really, really nice about it but I know how annoying it must be for others. Elbie is doing really well at agility except for the bolting :(

I would say in general, the 2 main reasons for dogs doing zoomies in agility relate to:

reward system issues

connection/communication issues

A couple of things to think about...

typically in agility, we don't spend anywhere near the time we need to building a reward system. If we provide our dogs with the highest value reward we can, agility becomes solely about a chance to earn that reward. If we don't provide it, we get one of three things...lack of effort, distraction/zoomies or a case where the obstacles themselves become the reward.

I think communication/ staying in touch with our dogs is not focussed on enough either. Too often we ask the dog to do something but are not clear about what comes next. This leads to either dogs slowing down & asking questions or dogs who choose to make their own minds up about what will come next.

:thumbsup:

We are in the middle of redesigning our club's training courses with exactly this in mind.

Our beginners will go from an intensive 8 week all inclusive over view that assumes this stuff is in place before the dog starts to a relationship building experience for dog and handler. At the end of that dogs and handlers will be assessed and if they pass 6 strict criteria they will be invited to come and train with the 'big' dogs on another night.

Focus is totally about handler/dog relationship with NO equipment at all. (except where it is needed for a couple of exercises.)

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It would have been worth posting twice, Vickie - thanks for that.

AD - sounds really good. Tried to do it at a club here, but because it's not just an agility club, ran into a lot of resistance from the "people just want to have fun on the equipment" brigade.

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I can tell it's excitement. Last night, Elbie did two jumps in a row, correctly jumped over the jump that was at a 90 degree angle to the other jumps, then turned right to clear the broad jump - then he bolted and did a victory lap before coming back to me. Then on another activity, he waited, then when released he ran ahead of me as instructed and cleared the 3 jumps in a row, returned to me - then he decided to celebrate by doing a victory lap. My dog is not the only dog who bolts and all of the other handlers are really, really nice about it but I know how annoying it must be for others. Elbie is doing really well at agility except for the bolting :(

I would say in general, the 2 main reasons for dogs doing zoomies in agility relate to:

reward system issues

connection/communication issues

A couple of things to think about...

typically in agility, we don't spend anywhere near the time we need to building a reward system. If we provide our dogs with the highest value reward we can, agility becomes solely about a chance to earn that reward. If we don't provide it, we get one of three things...lack of effort, distraction/zoomies or a case where the obstacles themselves become the reward.

I think communication/ staying in touch with our dogs is not focussed on enough either. Too often we ask the dog to do something but are not clear about what comes next. This leads to either dogs slowing down & asking questions or dogs who choose to make their own minds up about what will come next.

:thumbsup:

We are in the middle of redesigning our club's training courses with exactly this in mind.

Our beginners will go from an intensive 8 week all inclusive over view that assumes this stuff is in place before the dog starts to a relationship building experience for dog and handler. At the end of that dogs and handlers will be assessed and if they pass 6 strict criteria they will be invited to come and train with the 'big' dogs on another night.

Focus is totally about handler/dog relationship with NO equipment at all. (except where it is needed for a couple of exercises.)

AD, I don't spose you would mind posting those 6 criteria would you? My club is in the process of incorporating agility into the 'program'!

thanks!

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AD, I don't spose you would mind posting those 6 criteria would you? My club is in the process of incorporating agility into the 'program'!

thanks!

LOL. I wouldn't mind at all, except I can't remember them for sure!!

We are all for the people just want to have fun brigade. We've actually taken the club from almost exclusively BC's from two or three well known kennels that run at a national standard to ALL types of breeds. A lot of our members have no intention of ever trialling, but are respectful to those of us who do. Bottom line though is that no one has any fun when hyped up dogs are getting in other hyped up/intense dogs faces and being told off for their efforts - this is what has motivated us to make the changes.

(FTR, I have quick BC's and am very serious about trialling/training, but was the one who drove a lot of the change through the club. You can achieve a balance of both, just takes a bit of work IMO.)

I won't have worded these properly, but from memory I do know:

Sit Stay/start line stay with minimal distraction.

Handler focus/recall with minimal distractions. (ie: other dogs working on the field if not in close proximity.)

Circle work - left and right.

Ability to drive to a toy or bait plate independent of handler. (And then come back.)

Drop on table (ADAA requires a drop, but it also demonstrates they've done some work that they would not have come in with)

Ability to sit quietly while other dogs are working. (Really aimed at encouraging crating rather than tying out, but we don't care which, as long as the dog is safe and relatively quiet).

Perch/Pivot Box work. Need to be able to put front feet on pivot box and follow the owner around in a circle in both direction.

Demonstrate a trick

The key ones are sit stay, recall and circle work (essentially heeling on either side). If a dog can't do these then it won't get to come and play on the 'busy' night. For the moment they will be training on the same night as our instructors who have dogs that can cope with situtaions that might arise or can at least call their dogs away from those situations.

The tricky bit will be the change over from the current state to the new world. Some people may have to make the choice to go back and do a bit more work in the earlier class or we may have to help them make that decision.

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:rofl: LB - thanks for the heads up - I think! Just ordered it - love Nancy Gyes' alphabet drills - will be good to have them all in one package. Couldn't resist really since it was on free shipping :laugh: .
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Feel like loaning me one for a while then? :p

I actually still have The Focused Puppy to read! But this new book on Clean Run looks good because it's not a lot of reading, but actual things to put into practice. thumbsup1.gif

I've just ordered a retrieving DVD as I find those easier than reading, cheats way out :rofl:

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AD, I don't spose you would mind posting those 6 criteria would you? My club is in the process of incorporating agility into the 'program'!

thanks!

LOL. I wouldn't mind at all, except I can't remember them for sure!!

We are all for the people just want to have fun brigade. We've actually taken the club from almost exclusively BC's from two or three well known kennels that run at a national standard to ALL types of breeds. A lot of our members have no intention of ever trialling, but are respectful to those of us who do. Bottom line though is that no one has any fun when hyped up dogs are getting in other hyped up/intense dogs faces and being told off for their efforts - this is what has motivated us to make the changes.

(FTR, I have quick BC's and am very serious about trialling/training, but was the one who drove a lot of the change through the club. You can achieve a balance of both, just takes a bit of work IMO.)

I won't have worded these properly, but from memory I do know:

Sit Stay/start line stay with minimal distraction.

Handler focus/recall with minimal distractions. (ie: other dogs working on the field if not in close proximity.)

Circle work - left and right.

Ability to drive to a toy or bait plate independent of handler. (And then come back.)

Drop on table (ADAA requires a drop, but it also demonstrates they've done some work that they would not have come in with)

Ability to sit quietly while other dogs are working. (Really aimed at encouraging crating rather than tying out, but we don't care which, as long as the dog is safe and relatively quiet).

Perch/Pivot Box work. Need to be able to put front feet on pivot box and follow the owner around in a circle in both direction.

Demonstrate a trick

The key ones are sit stay, recall and circle work (essentially heeling on either side). If a dog can't do these then it won't get to come and play on the 'busy' night. For the moment they will be training on the same night as our instructors who have dogs that can cope with situtaions that might arise or can at least call their dogs away from those situations.

The tricky bit will be the change over from the current state to the new world. Some people may have to make the choice to go back and do a bit more work in the earlier class or we may have to help them make that decision.

Thanks AD,

thats a great help!

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I'm soon to start agility lessons and can't wait! Can anyone recommend some books for an interested beginner to start learning the language etc? I'll be starting with an older dog but hope to be able to apply what I learn to my other dogs too

Bump!

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I'm soon to start agility lessons and can't wait! Can anyone recommend some books for an interested beginner to start learning the language etc? I'll be starting with an older dog but hope to be able to apply what I learn to my other dogs too

Bump!

I don't have the book myself, but I think a lot of people were buying Agility Right From the Start, so maybe give that one a go?

http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=2350&ParentCat=175&string=right%20from%20the%20start

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Any of the Greg Derrett or Susan Garrett stuff is good for beginners. Moe Strenfel's Agility Foundations DVD isn't bad either. Mary Ellen Barry's Foundation Fundamentals has a lot of good stuff as well.

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Lucked out today at class, have been away for 3 weeks because I was sick/working/away and had such an awesome lesson today.

It was meant to rain so I was the only one that turned up (its more of a fun training group but the instructor also instructs at my "real" club so its an extra handy practice for us)

SO i scored a private lesson with great weather and minimal distractions, Quinn was offleash the entire time and only flipped me off twice, both times I'd probably pushed her too far and she got bored, decided the interesting smell on the ground was more worth her time.

I'm so proud of my little girl, she works so hard and reads me more than I could imagine, I have so many body language issues to be aware of, like twisting too far back towards her to release her which seems to make her skip the first jump and not crouching down when turning her.

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We've missed agility for the last six weeks because I was in a car accident and my stupid insurance company has been stuffing me around for weeks getting my car repaired :(

Finally got it back so I thought we'd make it this week but now it has to go back to the mechanic tomorrow because they stuffed something up! Grrrrrr! Then Daisy and I are off to Sydney for a week so it will be a couple of weeks until we are FINALLY back at training. Really miss it so can't wait to get back into it!

Edited by huski
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