W Sibs Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Emmy is the first dog I'm trying to train with the clicker. Teaching her tricks with the clicker is good, but it's just clicker in one hand and the treat in the other hand... but I'm really struggling with trying to get her to walk loosely on the leash with the clicker. Lease in one hand, clicker in the same hand and treats in the other hand... it's ain't working I always accidently press the clicker by accident, or I forget to treat... it leaves me frustrated and Emmy confused. Do I always have to treat after clicking? Any advice please? I'm at the point where I just don't click or treat anymore. We heel. She pulls. I stop and call her back. She sits down waiting. Then we heel again. Walking down the driveway sometimes can take about 1/2 hour and last week, it took us an hour to walk to next door (good exercise for her though... she had a 2 hours naps when we got home). I'm hoping that eventually one day she will get it. I don't want to use a choker on her because she is still a puppy. Plus side is she is going to be a great running partner when she gets older though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megan_ Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 You must always treat when you click - even if you click in error! A click is a promise to treat. I only use clicker training for free shaping though so I'm not much help on anything else. Just remember that if you use clicker training you don't have to use it for all training. If you're struggling with walking, paying her attention, clicking and treating then maybe give something else a go? I like the fact that my dogs know how to learn via a few methods. I also like that the clicker only means "try a bunch of things until I get a click" - the clicker is permission for them to try things with no "fear" of any reprimand (even a "no"). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missmoo Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Hi CW EW I use a clicker for my lab at home.....when i first started i had the same problems as you.....are you using a treat pouch?....this makes it easier than holding onto the food..readily accessible when you click and treat... I am no expert in clicker training but if you have "charged' or "primed" the click to then feeding a treat then when you click you should treat..... try pracitsing without your dog present or in ear shot of the clicker....have the clicker, lead and the treat and practice until you find what is comfortable...it is important to remember you must set yourself up first before you start so that you are in the best position to click/treat with accurate timing... My clicker is attached to one of those lanyard things that i can attach to my treat pouch or to my pants etc...this way I hang on to the clicker, click, let it go and then concentrate on rewarding.....it allows me to hold a treat and the clicker in the one same hand and the other hand is holding the lead... MM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvus Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Why not just attach the leash to your waist? You don't need to hold it if you're clicker training. You just need to stop her bolting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Sibs Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 You must always treat when you click - even if you click in error! A click is a promise to treat.I only use clicker training for free shaping though so I'm not much help on anything else. Just remember that if you use clicker training you don't have to use it for all training. If you're struggling with walking, paying her attention, clicking and treating then maybe give something else a go? I like the fact that my dogs know how to learn via a few methods. I also like that the clicker only means "try a bunch of things until I get a click" - the clicker is permission for them to try things with no "fear" of any reprimand (even a "no"). Yeah, I have been giving her the treat every time I click.. but I'm worried that she is going to learn the wrong thing. Hi CW EWI use a clicker for my lab at home.....when i first started i had the same problems as you.....are you using a treat pouch?....this makes it easier than holding onto the food..readily accessible when you click and treat... I am no expert in clicker training but if you have "charged' or "primed" the click to then feeding a treat then when you click you should treat..... try pracitsing without your dog present or in ear shot of the clicker....have the clicker, lead and the treat and practice until you find what is comfortable...it is important to remember you must set yourself up first before you start so that you are in the best position to click/treat with accurate timing... My clicker is attached to one of those lanyard things that i can attach to my treat pouch or to my pants etc...this way I hang on to the clicker, click, let it go and then concentrate on rewarding.....it allows me to hold a treat and the clicker in the one same hand and the other hand is holding the lead... MM Practising sounds like a good idea! I have the lanyard around my wrist, but I still have to hold the clicker, and I always have my thumb on the button.. Why not just attach the leash to your waist? You don't need to hold it if you're clicker training. You just need to stop her bolting. Hmm... i haven't even thought about that. I'm going to have to try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Fox Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Try using a marker word (like "yes") instead of a clicker Otherwise some suggestions so that you don't have to hold the clicker in your hand: Carabiner clip - Attach the split ring to the clicker and the caribiner to the handle of the leash/treat pooch/your clothing etc Wrist band - you can just flick the clicker up into your hand when you need it Lanyard - attach it to the clicker and keep it around your neck Black Dog 'Zinger' - clips on to your clothing/treat pouch and has a retractable cord Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Sibs Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 Try using a marker word (like "yes") instead of a clicker :D Otherwise some suggestions so that you don't have to hold the clicker in your hand: Carabiner clip - Attach the split ring to the clicker and the caribiner to the handle of the leash/treat pooch/your clothing etc Wrist band - you can just flick the clicker up into your hand when you need it Lanyard - attach it to the clicker and keep it around your neck Black Dog 'Zinger' - clips on to your clothing/treat pouch and has a retractable cord Hope that helps I'm been saying 'well done' instead of clicker. But, I really want to master this clicker training thing I'm so unco if I'm using more then 2 tools at once. I think I just need to practice more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubyStar Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 How about trying the clicker out on some little tricks or something first? That will help teach you how to use it and no worries of a leash messing you up until you master it a bit better. But gotta tell ya, even after using a clicker for a while, when you bring a leash into the equation, it will always be tricky Saying that, though, I taught Ruby loose lead walking as a wee pup using a clicker, going round the backyard. I that clicker and what it did for her in those very early days of learning to loose lead walk! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tess32 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Hold the lead in one hand, get a clicker that attaches to the treat bag and have the treats in the bag. It doesn't matter much if there is a small delay between click and treating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bedazzledx2 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 LLW is not the easiest thing to teach with a clicker for your first go. Of its very nature its an exercise in lumping. In order to learn to be proficent with the clicker I would suggest you start with a simple trick or maybe a shaping exercise like 101 things to do with a box. Something that doesn't matter so that if you stuff it up it'l teach you something but you won't mess up your training. Emmy is the first dog I'm trying to train with the clicker. Teaching her tricks with the clicker is good, but it's just clicker in one hand and the treat in the other hand... but I'm really struggling with trying to get her to walk loosely on the leash with the clicker.Lease in one hand, clicker in the same hand and treats in the other hand... it's ain't working I always accidently press the clicker by accident, or I forget to treat... it leaves me frustrated and Emmy confused. Do I always have to treat after clicking? Any advice please? I'm at the point where I just don't click or treat anymore. We heel. She pulls. I stop and call her back. She sits down waiting. Then we heel again. Walking down the driveway sometimes can take about 1/2 hour and last week, it took us an hour to walk to next door (good exercise for her though... she had a 2 hours naps when we got home). I'm hoping that eventually one day she will get it. I don't want to use a choker on her because she is still a puppy. Plus side is she is going to be a great running partner when she gets older though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Sibs Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 LLW is not the easiest thing to teach with a clicker for your first go. Of its very nature its an exercise in lumping. In order to learn to be proficent with the clicker I would suggest you start with a simple trick or maybe a shaping exercise like 101 things to do with a box. Something that doesn't matter so that if you stuff it up it'l teach you something but you won't mess up your training.Emmy is the first dog I'm trying to train with the clicker. Teaching her tricks with the clicker is good, but it's just clicker in one hand and the treat in the other hand... but I'm really struggling with trying to get her to walk loosely on the leash with the clicker.Lease in one hand, clicker in the same hand and treats in the other hand... it's ain't working :D I always accidently press the clicker by accident, or I forget to treat... it leaves me frustrated and Emmy confused. Do I always have to treat after clicking? Any advice please? I'm at the point where I just don't click or treat anymore. We heel. She pulls. I stop and call her back. She sits down waiting. Then we heel again. Walking down the driveway sometimes can take about 1/2 hour and last week, it took us an hour to walk to next door (good exercise for her though... she had a 2 hours naps when we got home). I'm hoping that eventually one day she will get it. I don't want to use a choker on her because she is still a puppy. Plus side is she is going to be a great running partner when she gets older though. I have been using the clicker when we are learning tricks and doing simple commands inside the house. it's good when there is no leash is involve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tassie Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I'm been saying 'well done' instead of clicker. But, I really want to master this clicker training thing :D I'm so unco if I'm using more then 2 tools at once. I think I just need to practice more. I'm unco as well. I do use a clicker - but usually for simple trick things as others have said. I use a marker word for most things - I would just suggest that your "Well done" is a bit too long and drawn out as a substitute for a click. Many of us just use an excited "yes" - easy to say - conveys the message quickly - very important for a pup. Agree with bedazzledx2 about the difficulty of teaching LLW with a clicker. Also, with my dogs, if they have pulled, I will stop, or change direction, without giving the dog any prompt, and when the dog makes the choice to either slacken the leash, or to turn the head towards me to see what's going on - that is the "clickable/markable" moment for me - the dog will then come back for the treat - or you can throw a treat if you like - the important thing is the moment of marking. The reasons I wait for the dog to make the choice, is that then you're quite clear about what you're marking - that is, the dog choosing to slacken the leash/pay attention to you. Otherwise, it's not clear whether what you're marking is response to your voice, or slackening the lead or ......... JUst some thoughts - and to let you know you're by no means the only unco one :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvus Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I have a thing against "yes" as a marker word. That s on the end makes it all drawn out and whispery. Especially if you have a lisp! I like hard, short sounds that you don't use in everyday talk much. Kivi gets "ping", and I'm starting Erik on a marker word of his own. I decided even ping was kinda too long and am trying to figure out a shorter, more sudden sound. I'm thinking "pip" or "dip" or "tick". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tassie Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Of course it doesn't really matter what you use as a marker word as long as it's short and sharp and consistent. The reason I like the excited 'yes' for me is that it's a very natural thing for me to say when something is nailed - and for that reason, it comes naturally and I don't have a pause while I think of the word - but that's me - old people forget things you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAX Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Without your dog, try bouncing a ball and click the ball at it's highest point, helps with your timing and doesn't spoil your click. And yes, if you click...reward, or else you're cheating your dog. Like others have said, train tricks first so you're not putting pressure on yourself. Have fun, that's the most important part, it's only dog training afterall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~*Shell*~ Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 I have a thing against "yes" as a marker word. That s on the end makes it all drawn out and whispery. Especially if you have a lisp! I like hard, short sounds that you don't use in everyday talk much. Kivi gets "ping", and I'm starting Erik on a marker word of his own. I decided even ping was kinda too long and am trying to figure out a shorter, more sudden sound. I'm thinking "pip" or "dip" or "tick". We have a woman at training who uses "yep" for the same reason. I use yes (when I'm not clicker traning) but don't draw out the s on the end. When I get a new puppy though, I'll be using a whistle. A whole lot easier for me, considering how uncoordinated I am! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koalathebear Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 (edited) I am also very unco with the clicker when walking ... It's fine in the house when we're asking Elbie to do things and I click and treat but going outside is a nightmare... walking, stopping him pulling (turning around and changing direction blah blah) and trying to pull a treat out of the treat bag at my waist and also clicking when he does the right thing - while keeping an eye out for oncoming perils ... What doesn't help is that at obedience they said that we're supposed to hold the leash in the right hand, steady it with the left and treat with the left hand - so how do I click??? Argh I need a harmonica version of a clicker I guess "Good boy" works with Elbie as well although he doesn't always get a treat after a good boy, so the click is a far more powerful thing for him ... Edited June 28, 2010 by koalathebear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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