jules1 Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Morning All I have been following the other thread about biting as we are having some similar problems with Axel, although the biting part is not so bad with him. He is now 5 months old, and we have had him since he was 13 weeks. Our main problem is his tendency to jump all over us as soon as we sit down on the lounge in the family room with a bit of biting/nipping and lots of 'pawing' thrown in and as he is getting quite big and heavy now, it's a painful experience. The jumping/biting is not too much of a problem when we are walking or standing, (except when he is very excited) but a stamp of the foot or a "sit" usually works quite well then. The lounge is a whole different story... Before I get 'flamed', I know we made a huge mistake letting him on the lounge to start with - but he just loved to curl up and go to sleep with his head on our laps (still does now when he's tired), and for the first month we had him, there wasn't any of the behaviour we are currently experiencing. Now, as soon as we sit down - he literally charges at us - leaps up and starts climbing all over us with lots of pawing and biting. His tail is wagging the whole time, and when we push him off, he does the 'play-bow' and just jumps straight back up. He seems to think that the lounge means playtime for some reason, and rough play at that!! I've also noticed that he sleeps on the lounge through the night now and isn't interested in his bed at all, so maybe he thinks it's "his lounge" now? I've wondered about dominance as he is getting older and probably testing the boundaries a bit, but doesn't really show any other signs - eg he always waits for me to walk through the door first, sits and waits for his dinner etc. So far we've tried the obvious things - A sharp "no" followed by putting him back on the floor (not an easy task!!) - he thinks this is part of the game and just 'play-bows' and leaps straight back up. Putting him outside for a few minutes - he whines/scratches for a while and when he quietens down, I let him back in but he is so excited to come back in that it starts all over again - so then we put him back outside...and round we go.... Ignoring the behaviour...virtually impossible - a 20+ kilo doberman pawing you manically and trying to climb on your head? Not fun and very hard to ignore!! Distracting him with toys - this works occasionally for a few minutes, depending on the toy - but then he decides it's more fun to climb on us... So I guess the only thing we can do is train him to stay off the lounge completely, but not sure how to accomplish this as he has access to this room when we are at work (maybe it's time to confine him to the yard only while we are out?) Can anyone give me some tips/advice? Either for keeping a very excited dog off the lounge or good ways to calm down excited dogs? I have tried the soothing voice, gentle rubbing and it does work a little bit when he is starting to wind down anyway - but has no effect whatsoever when he is very over-excited. I know he will calm down eventually as he gets older, but all I want to do at the moment is sit down and watch TV for an hour after dinner without a doberman pawing me and trying to sit on my head!! Apart from this lounge problem he is a fabulous dog - very loving and eager to please, but he seems to just lose the plot completely when we sit down on the lounge! Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Sounds a bit rough put him on a leash.. and then make him sit .. if he is on leash- YOU have control (don't you?) and can then place his bed alongside the couch...and get him to sit/lie on that. Only use words which are a direct command.. and then praise vocally ,QUIETLY and very softly. You may have to repeat the proceeding many times. he gets praised/spoken to nicely only when he is on HIS spot.Othe times, he gets OFF! or NO! in a deep growly voice.. plus a tug on the lead in the direction of his bed. Will he chew a bone/nylabone indoors? perhaps put this on his bed.. and then he can eat without interruptions. When he finishes.. he goes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules1 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Persephone, He does have some chew toys inside, but only stays on the floor or on his bed with them for a little while - he much prefers to sit on us to chew them! Then he starts the whole pawing thing again... I like your idea with the lead though...he's pretty good with the lead outside, but haven't tried it as a training tool inside. I will have to wait for him to settle down a little bit after putting it on though - as the lead is VERY exciting! He knows it usually means the park or the beach!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gretel Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Jules maybe you could put his lead on and then do some quick training in the house so he doesn't know when he's going to have his lead on for a walk or whether he will be doing a little training when you put it on. I'm assuming he likes to do some training with treats so either way lead still means something good coming.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VJB Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Sounds just as cheeky as my GSP use to be. Persistent too. You could always try the water spray bottle..... I've only ever used it on Heidi in extreme cases (usually jumping on people at the front gate when she was about 1, I may have only actually sprayed her 2 or 3 times). Now, if she continues to push the boundaries and I have tried various things, all I need to do is pick up the bottle, and she immediately stops the nonsense. My dog also gets more excited with verbal reprimanding, at times. Sometimes, the best defense has been totally ignoring her... no reaction what so ever. This is hard to do when you are being mauled, but there is no 'game' to be had with someone who isn't reacting. Holding Heidi on the floor was just as fun for her, and would make her more feisty and excited. Sitting still, no eye contact while on the lounge, no throwing toys, no attention at all. Eventually she would try and get in my face, and make eye contact. Loads of tail tapping on the floor, and some whining, everything she could do to say "Hey, look at me". She found no fun in it at all with us ignoring her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 OK- may I suggest you work hard on cutting down excitement . Seriously. When he;s asleep- put the lead on him. pick it up..and just walk around the house/yard- no talking.. just walking, doing ordinary stuff. Then, as he relaxes and realises nothing is happening .. do a couple of sits..and on one of them unclip the leash quietly and smoothly. if he is really a bouncer, but listens/pays attention (which it seems he does ) then speak softly to him ..and stroke him sloooowly ..every time.Your excitement /anxiety will add to his ..... Clip on a lead when he gets fed... clip on a lead at tv time..at bed time ... and just sleeping time. Make sure he does not mouth/chew it tho. I find a chain leash very useful with young pups- the mouthing/chewing brings NO reward at all- so is stopped before it starts A pup chews a lead ONCE- and it then knows . Things like leads/cars/opening doors should not be exciting to the stage where the dog anticipates and goes feral .That is teaching bad habits, IMO. you can do the same with keys/bag whatever else goes to the beach etc. Pick em up, put em down. NO talking or anything... just DO it . Cue actions/words are useful in some situations.. a pain in the whatsit most times. I try & always 'treat' my dogs when they least expect it. Mind you first thing in the morning, all Hell breaks loose ! around 8 pups/dogs, a pig, a goat ,a sheep ... all BUSTING to get loose from chains/out of pens/beds and RUN. I have absolutely no hope of anything orderly After that mad 1/2 hour- we are all sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartypaws Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Persephone,He does have some chew toys inside, but only stays on the floor or on his bed with them for a little while - he much prefers to sit on us to chew them! Then he starts the whole pawing thing again... I like your idea with the lead though...he's pretty good with the lead outside, but haven't tried it as a training tool inside. I will have to wait for him to settle down a little bit after putting it on though - as the lead is VERY exciting! He knows it usually means the park or the beach!! Hi Jules1 You sound like you have yourself a completely normal puppy! There is nothing quite like a Doberman pup! Can I ask if you are attending training with your puppy, with a reputable training organisation/trainer? The reason I ask is that you should be able to access good advice on dealing with this issue from your trainer if you are. Please be selective with the advice you may receive here as training is not a one size fits all thing, and consistency is really, really important. That is, if you try one suggestion and it "doesn't work", then you try another, and so on and so on, you may end up with a very confused puppy, who's behaviour may actually get worse......or in the worst case scenario, an anxious one who is starting to think you are a bit strange, with no clue what you are trying to teach it. Now for some advice from me, that you can choose to take or leave . Basic dog behaviour dictates that the dog will do what is most rewarding to the dog. If jumping in your lap ensues into a game of push and shove and hand shaking etc, it may well become a really rewarding game for your puppy. So your job is to figure out a way to make, for example, sitting calmly on a mat at your feet the most rewarding experience in the room. I personally do not agree with tugging leashes, yelling and forcing puppies onto mats (again, we could end up with a dog who just thinks we are a psycho and the mat doesn't become a rewarding place to be). Your puppy will choose the mat just as soon as you make it a rewarding place. That may mean toys, tugs, long lasting chews, treats, pats, belly rubs etc .......you will need to figure out what your dog will be most rewarded by. What will not be rewarding to your dog is forcing him/her onto the mat, tethering him/her onto the mat without something rewarding occuring at the same time (pats, long lasting chew etc), scolding the pup and sending it to the mat, dragging it onto the mat by it's leash (in fact, this one the dog is more likely to resist and fight you on). And of course, a mat is only an example....you may have some other alternative to jumping in your lap that you want to teach. In my experience dogs learn quickest if we actually teach them appropriate, alternative behaviours to adopt and be rewarded for, rather than trying to "stop" behaviours with aversive measures.....particularly with puppies. To me, there seems little point in repeatedly telling a dog not to do something if you aren't going to then show them what they should be doing instead. Ie. Jumping on me on the couch ends with me standing up and ignoring you, while sitting on your mat calmly gets you a pigs ear, treat, belly rub etc. This is just one suggestion that seems to work for the majority of dogs I see, I still suggest the best way to go though is through your own trainer if you have one. If not, you may want to consider joining a class, as this will most probably not be the last thing you will want training advice on with a new puppy. It is an investment in your relationship with your dog, money well spent in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VJB Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 :D Mind you first thing in the morning, all Hell breaks loose ! around 8 pups/dogs, a pig, a goat ,a sheep ... all BUSTING to get loose from chains/out of pens/beds and RUN. I have absolutely no hope of anything orderly After that mad 1/2 hour- we are all sweet. Yes, I agree with persephone about trying to do something with the excitement. I nearly mentioned it in my previous post, (but daughters needed toast) . It was suggested that I do this with Heidi (put lead on her). I did do this around the house. She seriously thought we were going out, and that I'd forgotten to take her, so in the end, she started to spin from frustration. Full helicopter spins. That being said, I never have issues trying to get the lead on her for walks etc, so I can see why she was thinking I needed reminding to go for a walk. To me, the whole lounge experience is just him using whatever tactics work to get you up and moving. How much exercise is he getting? Mental stimulation? It's hard work sometimes trying to find ways to give our dogs amusement, but I do find a tired dog a much better dog to live with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules1 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Sounds just as cheeky as my GSP use to be. Persistent too. You could always try the water spray bottle..... I've only ever used it on Heidi in extreme cases (usually jumping on people at the front gate when she was about 1, I may have only actually sprayed her 2 or 3 times). Now, if she continues to push the boundaries and I have tried various things, all I need to do is pick up the bottle, and she immediately stops the nonsense. My dog also gets more excited with verbal reprimanding, at times. Sometimes, the best defense has been totally ignoring her... no reaction what so ever. This is hard to do when you are being mauled, but there is no 'game' to be had with someone who isn't reacting. Holding Heidi on the floor was just as fun for her, and would make her more feisty and excited. Sitting still, no eye contact while on the lounge, no throwing toys, no attention at all. Eventually she would try and get in my face, and make eye contact. Loads of tail tapping on the floor, and some whining, everything she could do to say "Hey, look at me". She found no fun in it at all with us ignoring her. I know what you mean about the verbal reprimands - sometimes when he is is hyper-mode, it does seem to make things worse, not better. Have been considering the spray bottle - is there a particular way to use it to maximise it's effect? Should he not see that it's me spraying him etc? And I can really relate to how Heidi thought being held on the floor was great fun - Axel just thinks it's a great game too. OK- may I suggest you work hard on cutting down excitement . Seriously. When he;s asleep- put the lead on him. pick it up..and just walk around the house/yard- no talking.. just walking, doing ordinary stuff. Then, as he relaxes and realises nothing is happening .. do a couple of sits..and on one of them unclip the leash quietly and smoothly.if he is really a bouncer, but listens/pays attention (which it seems he does ) then speak softly to him ..and stroke him sloooowly ..every time.Your excitement /anxiety will add to his ..... Clip on a lead when he gets fed... clip on a lead at tv time..at bed time ... and just sleeping time. Make sure he does not mouth/chew it tho. I find a chain leash very useful with young pups- the mouthing/chewing brings NO reward at all- so is stopped before it starts A pup chews a lead ONCE- and it then knows . :D Things like leads/cars/opening doors should not be exciting to the stage where the dog anticipates and goes feral .That is teaching bad habits, IMO. you can do the same with keys/bag whatever else goes to the beach etc. Pick em up, put em down. NO talking or anything... just DO it . Cue actions/words are useful in some situations.. a pain in the whatsit most times. I try & always 'treat' my dogs when they least expect it. Mind you first thing in the morning, all Hell breaks loose ! around 8 pups/dogs, a pig, a goat ,a sheep ... all BUSTING to get loose from chains/out of pens/beds and RUN. I have absolutely no hope of anything orderly After that mad 1/2 hour- we are all sweet. That is the perfect way to describe him - "a bouncer" - in fact when people at work ask me how he is going - I usually just say "Big and Bouncy"! I obviously need to try and reduce his excitement levels - like you suggested, put on his lead at random times during the day when he is not actually going anywhere until it stops being a trigger for going hyper. He is a lovely dog, but very excitable and hard to calm at the moment - the soft speaking and gentle stroking does work sometimes - will just need to be more persistant with it I think. I really want to fix this hyper/excited problem as we seem to be spending more time reprimanding him at the moment than enjoying spending time with him, which is a shame and I fully appreciate is our fault not his....it's almost a vicious circle as the more hyper he gets, the less attention/cuddles he gets which makes him more hyper to get our attention.....I try and reward his good behaviour, lots of cuddles when he is calm and if he's jumping up and responds to 'sit' he gets his favourite ear rub etc, but need to work on reducing the excitement levels too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules1 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Persephone,He does have some chew toys inside, but only stays on the floor or on his bed with them for a little while - he much prefers to sit on us to chew them! Then he starts the whole pawing thing again... I like your idea with the lead though...he's pretty good with the lead outside, but haven't tried it as a training tool inside. I will have to wait for him to settle down a little bit after putting it on though - as the lead is VERY exciting! He knows it usually means the park or the beach!! Hi Jules1 You sound like you have yourself a completely normal puppy! There is nothing quite like a Doberman pup! Can I ask if you are attending training with your puppy, with a reputable training organisation/trainer? The reason I ask is that you should be able to access good advice on dealing with this issue from your trainer if you are. Please be selective with the advice you may receive here as training is not a one size fits all thing, and consistency is really, really important. That is, if you try one suggestion and it "doesn't work", then you try another, and so on and so on, you may end up with a very confused puppy, who's behaviour may actually get worse......or in the worst case scenario, an anxious one who is starting to think you are a bit strange, with no clue what you are trying to teach it. Now for some advice from me, that you can choose to take or leave :D . Basic dog behaviour dictates that the dog will do what is most rewarding to the dog. If jumping in your lap ensues into a game of push and shove and hand shaking etc, it may well become a really rewarding game for your puppy. So your job is to figure out a way to make, for example, sitting calmly on a mat at your feet the most rewarding experience in the room. I personally do not agree with tugging leashes, yelling and forcing puppies onto mats (again, we could end up with a dog who just thinks we are a psycho and the mat doesn't become a rewarding place to be). Your puppy will choose the mat just as soon as you make it a rewarding place. That may mean toys, tugs, long lasting chews, treats, pats, belly rubs etc .......you will need to figure out what your dog will be most rewarded by. What will not be rewarding to your dog is forcing him/her onto the mat, tethering him/her onto the mat without something rewarding occuring at the same time (pats, long lasting chew etc), scolding the pup and sending it to the mat, dragging it onto the mat by it's leash (in fact, this one the dog is more likely to resist and fight you on). And of course, a mat is only an example....you may have some other alternative to jumping in your lap that you want to teach. In my experience dogs learn quickest if we actually teach them appropriate, alternative behaviours to adopt and be rewarded for, rather than trying to "stop" behaviours with aversive measures.....particularly with puppies. To me, there seems little point in repeatedly telling a dog not to do something if you aren't going to then show them what they should be doing instead. Ie. Jumping on me on the couch ends with me standing up and ignoring you, while sitting on your mat calmly gets you a pigs ear, treat, belly rub etc. This is just one suggestion that seems to work for the majority of dogs I see, I still suggest the best way to go though is through your own trainer if you have one. If not, you may want to consider joining a class, as this will most probably not be the last thing you will want training advice on with a new puppy. It is an investment in your relationship with your dog, money well spent in my opinion. We are going to basic obedience class, but to be honest they don't really cover individual problems and it's mainly the sit/stay/walk on lead type things. He is doing really well with his lessons and learns quickly (very food/treat driven), except the occasional week where he seems to just want to bounce around and ignore everything I say (but the trainers assure me that's normal for most puppies to be like that occasionally). You're right about trying to drag him on the lead anywhere - if we try to pull him anywhere he doesn't want to go with the lead - he just digs his heels in and fights the whole way....making it sound fun with encouraging words and gestures works much better to get him to go somewhere he is initially not sure of.. So it looks like I have to try and reduce the hyper levels, stop confusing the poor boy and make his own bed the most rewarding place he can be....that all sounds so easy...I must be a really bad puppy mum to have let it get to the stage we are at now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VJB Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 I know what you mean about the verbal reprimands - sometimes when he is is hyper-mode, it does seem to make things worse, not better. Have been considering the spray bottle - is there a particular way to use it to maximise it's effect? Should he not see that it's me spraying him etc? And I can really relate to how Heidi thought being held on the floor was great fun - Axel just thinks it's a great game too. I really want to fix this hyper/excited problem You and me are on the same page. Heidi has settled down a lot over time. She has just turned 2. A year or so ago, she was the queen of excited body slamming, at full speed when having off leash exercise, especially in wet grass which excited her more. The more I verbally reprimanded her, the more hyper she would become.... almost scary. She would just charge at me, (with loving intentions) and had no respect for personal space. I always wear a bum-bag, with treats, and I take a toy, so that I can divert this happening. This is a picture of her mauling me with her love while I sit at the computer.... similar to your lounge experince. Holding her down just made me look like the crocodile hunter with no assistance.... Legs flying everywhere. With the spray bottle, make sure it actually works. A nice straight stream. I never worried about her seeing me with it. Funnily enough, I can spray around my home at other times, when cleaning etc, and she gives no reaction at all to the spray bottle. She knows full well it is intended for her. Not unlike a toddler testing the boundaries. Exercise and mental stimulation plays an enormous part in her mischief making though. I've learned 101 ideas of how to entertain her, and hopefully redirect her more annoying traits. There are obviously time though, when you have the right to your space and relaxation.... just gotta get the message across. I've heard Dobes are not unlike GSP's by nature...?.... beautiful sooks they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VJB Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) ...I must be a really bad puppy mum to have let it get to the stage we are at now. NO YOU ARE NOT!!! You are doing well, I think. I still have horror moments of embarrassment... but I just keep working at it, and accept that sometimes the messages will be a bit mixed. I'm human, and therefore not perfect 100% of the time. As time goes on, you will be able to predict more and more they way your dog thinks, and how you react to it. Its all in the learning, and you will continue to work things out together... and stumble along the way sometimes. Before you know it, this problem will be solved and you will be dealing with another. This is normal, and it is also good to remind yourself of how far you have come from those first problems you may have faced. I can get a bit absorbed in my doggy issues. Before I know it, a few months have passed, and so has that phase.... must have done something right along the way. ETA: Just don't give up working on issues though. It helps you understand more, and also prepares you for adolescence. Pick your battles, and focus on the ones that impact your life the most. At the moment it is teaching your dog "calmness". I've yet to fully work that one out... If he is as food motivated as you say so, then wear a bum bag around the house, and then you can teach all sorts of house rules with treats on hand. Edited June 5, 2010 by VJB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 ...I must be a really bad puppy mum to have let it get to the stage we are at now. NO YOU ARE NOT!!! You are doing well, I think. I still have horror moments of embarrassment... but I just keep working at it, and accept that sometimes the messages will be a bit mixed. I'm human, and therefore not perfect 100% of the time. As time goes on, you will be able to predict more and more they way your dog thinks, and how you react to it. Its all in the learning, and you will continue to work things out together... and stumble along the way sometimes. Before you know it, this problem will be solved and you will be dealing with another. This is normal, and it is also good to remind yourself of how far you have come from those first problems you may have faced. I can get a bit absorbed in my doggy issues. Before I know it, a few months have passed, and so has that phase.... must have done something right along the way. ETA: Just don't give up working on issues though. It helps you understand more, and also prepares you for adolescence. Pick your battles, and focus on the ones that impact your life the most. At the moment it is teaching your dog "calmness". I've yet to fully work that one out... If he is as food motivated as you say so, then wear a bum bag around the house, and then you can teach all sorts of house rules with treats on hand. x1. he sounds gorgeous - and happy and healthy- so you have done well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules1 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Adolescence.....I've been reading about that - and it scares the living daylights out of me!! Axel is actually our 3rd doberman - but first male, and first puppy which is why we are a bit unfamiliar with the whole puppy thing - our last 2 dobes were females that we got as semi-mature adults. First one Lana was 18 months old that we adopted from the pound (she started our doberman obsession) but she passed away at 4 with bone cancer and our last beautiful girl (Piper) we got when she was 11 months old and she was an ex-show dog who was beautifully trained when we got her - Piper went to the rainbow bridge in January at almost 12 years old and now we have the bouncy Axel !! He is a big sook, just a bit hyper and not familiar with the whole "personal space" thing yet. VJB - your photo at the computer is exactly like Axel on the lounge!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartypaws Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 So it looks like I have to try and reduce the hyper levels, stop confusing the poor boy and make his own bed the most rewarding place he can be....that all sounds so easy...I must be a really bad puppy mum to have let it get to the stage we are at now. Absolutely not Jules1! Wading through the quagmire of misinformation on how to raise a puppy is a full-time job And then there is finding the right way to apporach your individual puppy. GOOD LUCk with your boy.....and enjoy the puppy ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuffles Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 I was wondering whether standing up would help? If he wants to rough and tumble on the couch, but every time he tries, you stand up and ignore him (maybe back to him), he might realise he doesn't get rewarded? It would take lots of persistence though! Ava is 6 months old and we have problems with over-excitement too. Puppies are so much fun aren't they Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules1 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Puppies are wonderful fun! I have to admit that just sometimes though, I wish I could find the "off" switch... We are doing the standing up and ignoring him bit at the moment, it has mixed results - if he isn't too hyper, then it works a bit after a few goes at it, but when he's in full ballistic mode - nothing seems to work. When he gets really bad, I usually take him out the back and throw the frisbee for him for a while to try and tire him out (he "fetches" really well!) But that is probably rewarding him.....I'm sure raising our son (now 15) wasn't as hard as this!! I'm also thinking that we might have to increase his walk-time after work too, as now I'm analysing the problem a bit more here on the forum, I realise he is a lot worse through the week than on the weekend. Or maybe my tolerance isn't as high after being at work all day...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 My God...your dog sounds exactly like mine! Its exhausting especially when all we want to do is relax and spend time with our sweet pups! Jane did and does exactly the same but we did find that redirecting her excitability to clicker training really helped. We recently got another dog who is 16 weeks old and I have really become aware of just how much energy dogs expand when they play with each other. I don't think any amount of training or walking or 'fetch' can replace a full on play session between two young dogs!!! Jane is still and probably always will be a high energy excitable dog but having Gus means that her play time is focused on him and not us. It has also shown me that she understands the rules of playing with another dog far far better than she ever understood the rules of play with humans! Gus is a sweet young sensible introvert who will most likely never be as full on as Jane who is an out there total extrovert. She is hard work and has been since day 1! Always pushing the boundries, always wanting to try new things without an ounce of fear and always keeping us on our toes BUT she is a sweet and special creature who just happens to need alot of physical and mental stimulation! At 16 months, she is far more of a puppy than our puppy is!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsfevr Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 I have breeds well known for being over excitable & when ever i train for the show ring I always hype them until there over the top & then i train them to respond during this phase & never ever had an issue in gaining control asap. They learn very quickly it isnt a game & that there reward is for doing what is asked . People always train when the dog is listening but i prefer to work with the exuberance phase & add it into the dogs enjoyment & reward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
persephone Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 When he gets really bad, I usually take him out the back and throw the frisbee for him for a while to try and tire him out (he "fetches" really well!) But that is probably rewarding him... *nods * he is training you roolly well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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