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Recall Training


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I sympathise but can't help :party: All my rescue Goldies have had bad recall. A lot of people have told me it's because I didn't have them as puppies :laugh:

I've had rescue dogs with absolutely brilliant recall from day one, whereas some others took longer to train. Not all rescue dogs have bad recall - it really depends on the individual dog.

And I suspect the owner :laugh:

I need to practice more.

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I start recalls just using the dog's name, I put another cue on later.

Once the dog understands to come to you when you call his name the next two criteria I work on set the tone for anything you work on after that:

1. Latency - the time taken to respond to the cue, don't reinforce the slowest responses

2. Speed - don't reinforce the slowest returns, some tips include tossing the reinforcer (be it ball, or food) behind you so the dog does not anticipate slowing down as he gets closer

I like the response to be so quick, so automatic, that the dog ends up at your feet thinking "How the hell did I get here?" Minimum latency and maximum speed tend to blow through distractions.

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*deelee make sure that when she does come back that you give her massive pats and send her off again so that she doesn't associate a recall with the end of fun.

My little 5 month old pup checks in, it is very cute. She bolts in, licks my hand and bolts off again.

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*deelee make sure that when she does come back that you give her massive pats and send her off again so that she doesn't associate a recall with the end of fun.

My little 5 month old pup checks in, it is very cute. She bolts in, licks my hand and bolts off again.

Yes, now that you (and Kavic) mention it, Saxon checks in with me too. I hadn't realised I was doing it but at the dog park I very regularly call him over just to make sure he is aware of me, and isn't totally distracted by something else. That's not the same as an emergency recall, I know, but it seems to stop him going into that zone where you can't get their attention. He also gets a treat if no other dogs are around, or cuddles if they are, then sent off to play again, so he knows coming to me doesn't = funs over.

deelee, like you've realised, you do have to do it heaps. RRR says at least 3 times per day everyday, for life, BUT it's important to use your particular command only when they're already coming to you while they're learning - and even when they know it, still keep up the rewards everytime they respond. The aim is that it becomes an automatic response for them, not a process where they think "hmmm, is it more fun to stay here, or to go to mum..."

I actually do it basically whenever Saxon is heading in my general direction when we're in public, especially at the dog park. He often goes over to have a drink, then comes back to check what I'm doing, so I always use the "saxsaxsax" call sounding really happy, crouch down and then give lots of cuddles/treats when he gets to me.

You're right, it won't work if she's off having fun and you just introduce the command when you want her to come over to you. You need to get her coming towards you first, will she follow you if you start to run in the opposite direction from her?

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Hi, one of the advantages of a whistle is that it always sounds the same ie never angry or anxious or panicking which your voice may well do, depending on the circumstances. Many men find it difficult to be loud and happy when they call -- they sound aggravated. Also I find that in an emergency my voice dries up and I can't project it, hence the joy of a whistle. My whistle is on a lanyard next to my bumbag and both are part of my checklist whenever I go out with my dog.

At our pet dog class we teach a collar grab (or hold) whenever a dog is called in, to stop the "hit and run" dog who takes the treat and takes off. The dog is always given permission "off you go" when the collar is released -- the dog never decides "I'm going over here now". I always advise handlers to save their best treats eg BBQ chicken for recall training, but also to have other emergency plans like letting out a scream and running in the opposite direction, having a very loud squeaky toy that the dog is very occasionally allowed to play with after a recall, making your dog ball mad and occasionally throwing the ball when the dog is running in for a recall. Also in a VERY safe park occasionally stepping behind a tree so your dog needs to hunt for you and then becomes convinced that he always needs to keep an eye on where you are, or he will lose you.

I believe developing (and keeping) a reliable recall is a life long practice with your dog.

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Saxonpup, we jog together 3 times a week so me running is not very exciting to her. I might try to ramp up her excitement by playing some chasey games, see if that helps.

Gspsplease, that sounds like a good idea with the collar grab, I havent heard that before!

I have tried the hiding trick- it seems to work quite well when we are somewhere new to Honey, she does a lot of checking in (which I heavily treat :dancingelephant: ), but a second visit to the same place is a lot less successful.

The whistle is looking better and better. Just have to get one!

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I cant go get her- she is usually running round (barking at the sky :( ). I wish I could, then she'd get the message: bolt off and you go onlead. But by the time I could get to her she is usually running back to me.

I keep thinking that i need to make her understand that running off is wrong. Though perhaps I am looking at it all wrong :laugh: .

Previously I've used correction in training (not with Honey so much though) and there is no way to apply an aversive in this instance (aside from a long line).

I guess I should be looking at making her think returning to me immediately is good. Which is what I am trying to do.. :wave:

Nah, you need to teach her "recalls are awesome!" :) The reason why RRR works so well is because you reward them BIG every single time you recall them. So it doesn't take them long to realise when you start handing out roast beef that paying attention to that recall is a really good idea. Our dogs recall as fast as they can because they know it means they are getting something freaking delicious.

The other thing that I think is super useful in getting dogs to be reliable off leash is to reward them for check ins. Our dogs kind of swan in every few minutes and we pop them treats and tell them to go and play again. It doesn't take long to make this a habit if you're consistent about popping treats every time they choose to check in. We also ask them to do tricks or play with them, and Kivi's favourite thing is to amble up and attach himself to your leg until you give him a treat. It's all about making spending time with you an attractive choice and encouraging them to pay attention to where you are.

In the meantime, put her on a long line or only let her off in fenced areas.

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Took some tasty tasty ham for treats to the park today, did some ball tossing AND some recall practice. Also played chasey and treated BIG. She did really well. :)

The naughty bugger did bolt off from me at one point but when I called COME she came back!! :laugh:

Unfortunately she bolted off again before I could grab her :) , but then did come back again when I called again! :(

Not perfect but at least I am starting to see some results now, which makes a huge difference to me! :wave:

Thanks for your tips and reinforcement that I am going in the right direction!

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Took some tasty tasty ham for treats to the park today, did some ball tossing AND some recall practice. Also played chasey and treated BIG. She did really well. :D

The naughty bugger did bolt off from me at one point but when I called COME she came back!! :thumbsup:

Unfortunately she bolted off again before I could grab her :) , but then did come back again when I called again! :cool:

Not perfect but at least I am starting to see some results now, which makes a huge difference to me! :D

Thanks for your tips and reinforcement that I am going in the right direction!

Sounds like you're making good progress! :rofl:

One thing I encourage people to practice is calling the dog, holding the collar then releasing again. This way the dog isn't thinking you grabbing the collar is the end of fun time. :)

Bear.

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