At What Age Do You Start Training?

[Serket]

I think the paddock bashing club training is really geared towards pet people. I don't know any triallers who would do a full class with their dog.

If only that were true Huski, ours seems to be the higher you go, the more you paddock bash.

One of my complaints with my club is that if you want to go into the trial rings then you have to pass basic obedience first (24 weeks) and you have to be in or pass the advanced class. Whilst they don't paddock bash, the structure if very formal.

Likewise - I can't do agility (proper agility, once she's old enough) at my obedience club unless we pass the next level of obedience classes from where we are now (no agility unless you've done formal obedience), and I don't think you can trial until a certain point either. You also have to start from the bottom and earn you way up even if your dog has prior training (so we spent 8 weeks 'revising' in class and trying not to get too bored while everyone else learnt sit/stay/drop/heel/recall on long lead)

At our for-fun agility classes I often go up the end of the oval before/during/after class and do a short heeling pattern or some stays etc just for 5-10 minutes max, and I get 100% focus, she ignores the dogs running around nearby and I don't need food. If I try to do it for an hour like we're asked to in class, I get a 9month (7 months when we stopped going) old who switches off entirely and won't even look at me anymore once she's over it - no matter what food is on offer. So, compared to the 'won't take her eyes off me for a second' dog I get at other times, I'm not keen on forcing the issue once she's switched off, I think that training in those circumstances can be detrimental - as the dog is learning NOT to obey.

[huski]

No club can dictate if or when you trial. And if they want to miss out on getting your points under their name that's their problem

[Kavik]

Likewise - I can't do agility (proper agility, once she's old enough) at my obedience club unless we pass the next level of obedience classes from where we are now (no agility unless you've done formal obedience), and I don't think you can trial until a certain point either. You also have to start from the bottom and earn you way up even if your dog has prior training (so we spent 8 weeks 'revising' in class and trying not to get too bored while everyone else learnt sit/stay/drop/heel/recall on long lead)

At our for-fun agility classes I often go up the end of the oval before/during/after class and do a short heeling pattern or some stays etc just for 5-10 minutes max, and I get 100% focus, she ignores the dogs running around nearby and I don't need food. If I try to do it for an hour like we're asked to in class, I get a 9month (7 months when we stopped going) old who switches off entirely and won't even look at me anymore once she's over it - no matter what food is on offer. So, compared to the 'won't take her eyes off me for a second' dog I get at other times, I'm not keen on forcing the issue once she's switched off, I think that training in those circumstances can be detrimental - as the dog is learning NOT to obey.

If you are in Sydney there are plenty of agility clubs that don't require you to have done formal obedience

[Agility Dogs]

Yes, please do share AD, I have the queen of the "it's my turn to train and it's my turn NOW!" tantrums, Millie!! Ruby is such a good girl, if I'm training at home she knows she has to go back inside the door for Millie's turn, or gets back in the car at club (all with a bit of a sad look on her face mind you!) but Millie, tantrums galore

I started by playing with the two of them together - by playing I mean doing tricks for treats - and made sure that I could get each of them to work independently of each other. (Xena down - CK had to stay sitting, etc etc). The next thing was to start out the same way and then put one of them on their mat on a stay - this way it just became another exercise. (heaps of reward for holding the stay) At first it was only really short, but we built duration. Next step was to add a lead into the equation (when they were on their mat they were tied out - quickly I could tie out one of the dogs and the other could work).

Then we moved to in their crates with the doors open, and finally to in their crates with the doors shut.

If at any time one of them breaks then they are just put back on the 'stay' with no interaction other than a hand through their collar or by their ear if they are not wearing one. If they make noise in their crates they are just covered up with no notice given to them and then brought out when they are quiet.

I now have REALLY good stays and although I still have a few problems with the girl from time to time, all in all it is easy to cope with and I can train one without the other going nuts.

Proudest achievement is having one of them on a stay while the other plays frisbee. (these are dogs that LIVE for frisbee).

Sorry to hijack.

Cheers