Shy And Fearful Maltese

[Yoshi.Maltese]

Hi guys, frst off just want to say I'm glad I have found this site.

We have a purebred Maltese that is 5 months old, he is always afraid of new people and dogs. At home when a new person he hasn't met comes over he is very shy ad afraid. We are slowly able to make him less afraid at home he just needs time to approach and then he'll be good to go.

The thing that worries me is taking him out for walks I'm just not sure how to reassure him that it is ok.

Any help would be much appreciated.

[Lady Flying Furball]

I am no expert and am sure others on here will come along with more expertise to give you some ideas, but have you taken him to a puppy preschool, or although the dog is young a private trainer could help, and eventually when old enough a dog club is good too...

Have you found the Maltese thread? It is under Sub breeds

Edited March 4, 2010 by FlyingFurball

[Lady Flying Furball]

I just looked for the Maltese thread and there doesn't seem to be one

[Yoshi.Maltese]

Thanks for the reply, yeh I have searched for a Maltese thread and couldn't find one which is quite suprising. I har got some private 1on1 sessions with bark busters only 2 both have been good but yoshi is still quite scared of him I think it could be because of the dog smell.

[ellz]

What do you do when he exhibits the behaviours? Do you pick him up and reassure him and make a fuss of him? If so, you're simply reinforcing the fact that there is something to be frightened of.

Ignore him. Make him stand on his own feet, he does have four of them after all. When you are out walking and he shies away from somebody, ignore the behaviour and keep him walking. Don't pick him up or say reassuring things in a gentle tone of voice. Be businesslike and direct with him and handle him firmly.

Show him by YOUR actions that there is nothing to be scared of.

[Erny]

Thanks for the reply, yeh I have searched for a Maltese thread and couldn't find one which is quite suprising. I har got some private 1on1 sessions with bark busters only 2 both have been good but yoshi is still quite scared of him I think it could be because of the dog smell.

But has he shown you techniques for YOU to use and have you found them helping? Not just towards the trainer/behaviourist but also when you are out and about? What I mean is that you/we already know your pup is showing fear behaviour to other people and dogs. That's why you are seeking help. The tuition/advice you receive from a trainer/behaviourist should be about what YOU (whom your pup is not afraid of) needs to do in the presence of the stimuli that causes your pup anxiety/unease.

I'm not sure if I'm making my point clear with the way I've worded the above (forgive me), but we could potentially expect your pup to be shy/fearful of anyone (including a trainer/behaviourist). When I work with owners and their fearful dogs, I demonstrate/explain/describe what the owner needs to do, and I use myself as the "unfamiliar person" for the owner to use the technique/s I suggest, so the owner can see how it works/helps.

Or are you saying this is what you've done but it is not making any difference towards the trainer/behaviourist? If that's the case, then my next question would be has it made a difference to anyone, trainer/behaviourist aside?

Good for you for seeking help . Certainly NOW is the time to work on this problem, for it to have the greatest potential for improvement.

Edited March 4, 2010 by Erny

[W Sibs]

Ignore the behaviour. Don't feel sorry for him or anything (it's hard, i know).

When a new person comes into the house... put it on a leash (so the dog doesn't run to another room or hide). Tell the new person to ignore the dog. He is will figure out that everything is ok and since you're relax, he will follow your actions. It's important that you don't baby him or reassure him (he won't understand what you're saying or trying to do).

When you take him for a walk... just walk. Don't let him sniff or have a toilet break, till you let him. If he is walking and following you, he won't have time to think about being scared of the trees, the bird, other people etc. He is just focusing on walking with you. He will eventually like walking.

Talk to a behaviourist.

Edited March 4, 2010 by charleswentworth

[Yoshi.Maltese]

What do you do when he exhibits the behaviours? Do you pick him up and reassure him and make a fuss of him? If so, you're simply reinforcing the fact that there is something to be frightened of.

Ignore him. Make him stand on his own feet, he does have four of them after all. When you are out walking and he shies away from somebody, ignore the behaviour and keep him walking. Don't pick him up or say reassuring things in a gentle tone of voice. Be businesslike and direct with him and handle him firmly.

Show him by YOUR actions that there is nothing to be scared of.

thanks for the info sounds good I don't pick him up although I may have reassured him it's ok it a gentle voice which is bad I just remembered the trainer said it's bad to do that.

I will try again today after work and just keep walking.

I have been saying heel repeatedly as I walk him by my side and praise him with good boy is that the right thing to do??

[Erny]

I have been saying heel repeatedly as I walk him by my side and praise him with good boy is that the right thing to do??

I would abandon the idea of saying or teaching "heel" at the moment. Just getting your pup to walk confidently is what you want. If your dog is afraid, he's not in the right frame of mind to also be learning what "heel" means, and the command "heel" would become meaningless to him later on. Praise when he is confident. THAT's what you want to build on. There's likely to be more to it other than just not picking him up;reinforcing confident behaviour; and not reinforcing nervous behaviour. Your trainer/behaviourist would/should have worked through those other aspects with you though.

[mita]

Yes, to what Erny just said.

We were given these tips to build confidence in a shy & timid dog. To help a young tibbie girl who was extremely timid. Some of the ideas helped her greatly:

* Encourge her to do chasey games, when a treat or toy is tied at the end of a string.

And she's encouraged to chase it. Apparently that helps the

submissive dog to 'feel' & act more dominantly.

* Try to protect the dog's personal space. Do not let strangers

overwhelm him, etc. You may not be aware of a passersby

actually petting the dog. It is amazing what really goes on. Do

not allow people (even family members) to pet the dog on the top

of the head or behind his ears. Instead, pat and scratch the dog

on his chest and neck. This is much less threatening to a dog.

* Teach the dog how to play with you. Entice the dog for a game

of chase, with the dog chasing you. If he won't chase you while

you're running, try crawling, yes really. Crawl on the floor on all

fours away from him, then lie down and roll. Cover your face and

make high-pitched whimpering noises. This should entice the

dog to come over to you. This is success, praise the dog and

then walk away and try it again later.

* If the dog is scared of people, instruct people to sit down with

their backs facing the dog. Then, hold out a their hand (behind

them) for the dog with a food treat in it. Gradually, the person

can turn so that they are sideways, and then facing the dog.

Avoid eye-contact until the dog is no longer scared of this

particular person.

* Do not stroke a scared dog and say "It's OK." This is perceived

as praise by the dog and will make it more likely that the dog will

repeat his fear again next time. Instead, give robust pats on the

sides and act happy, pretend there is nothing to be scared

about, and if at all possible, remove him from the frightful

situation.

* Yawning is a calming signal for dogs. When your dog is

nervous or unsure of a situation or person, you (and that person)

should sit down by your dog, turn your head and focus slightly

away from the dog, and yawn continually. I am not talking about

30 seconds of yawning, rather 3-30 minutes of consistent,

passive yawning. Try it, over time it should make your dog more

comfortable.

* It is important to avoid eye-contact, especially if the dog is used

to running away or submissive peeing. When you are able to be

close to the dog, kneel or sit down so you are on his level and

turn your head away from the dog and lick your lips. Continue

doing this until the dog either ceases being nervous, or brings

their face closer to yours in a gesture of friendship. If/when this

occurs, praise the dog's efforts with kind words and a gentle

chest rub, however still avoid eye-contact. Whenever you are

close to a scared or submissive dog, it is important to avoid

eye-contact so the dog will not feel threatened in any way.

* If she's food oriented give visitors some little treats to hold in their

hands & occasionally drop next to her as they walk by.

* Do not over-stimulate or push the dog too far to fast. Let the

dog regulate how close he can get to other people, places and

things. If you push a scared dog too far, you will create a

neurosis that will be more difficult to treat.

* If the dog is scared of human contact, even from you, pet the

dog unexpectedly as you walk by. Do it quickly and friendly, and

then keep walking. The dog will probably be scared and

surprised, for if he knew you were going to pet him, he would've

run away and not allowed it. By sneaking in friendly petting with

no consequences (you simply walk away) the dog will learn that

being touched is not a bad thing.

* Being scared is very stressful. Exercise is one of the most

beneficial ways to relieve stress, so make sure your dog gets

plenty of it. If your dog likes other dogs (if you don't know, find

out) I strongly recommend that you find a dog for him to play with

on a weekly basis (more often, even better). Canine

companionship is very important to dogs, and especially a dog

that does not trust many humans, another canine can relieve

more stress than anything else. Be sure to allow the dogs to

romp around and play unrestricted (except for a fence) until they

tire out. This may be one of the best therapies that you can give

a shy dog.

[Lady Flying Furball]

Yes, to what Erny just said.

We were given these tips to build confidence in a shy & timid dog. To help a young tibbie girl who was extremely timid. Some of the ideas helped her greatly:

* Encourge her to do chasey games, when a treat or toy is tied at the end of a string.

And she's encouraged to chase it. Apparently that helps the

submissive dog to 'feel' & act more dominantly.

* Try to protect the dog's personal space. Do not let strangers

overwhelm him, etc. You may not be aware of a passersby

actually petting the dog. It is amazing what really goes on. Do

not allow people (even family members) to pet the dog on the top

of the head or behind his ears. Instead, pat and scratch the dog

on his chest and neck. This is much less threatening to a dog.

* Teach the dog how to play with you. Entice the dog for a game

of chase, with the dog chasing you. If he won't chase you while

you're running, try crawling, yes really. Crawl on the floor on all

fours away from him, then lie down and roll. Cover your face and

make high-pitched whimpering noises. This should entice the

dog to come over to you. This is success, praise the dog and

then walk away and try it again later.

* If the dog is scared of people, instruct people to sit down with

their backs facing the dog. Then, hold out a their hand (behind

them) for the dog with a food treat in it. Gradually, the person

can turn so that they are sideways, and then facing the dog.

Avoid eye-contact until the dog is no longer scared of this

particular person.

* Do not stroke a scared dog and say "It's OK." This is perceived

as praise by the dog and will make it more likely that the dog will

repeat his fear again next time. Instead, give robust pats on the

sides and act happy, pretend there is nothing to be scared

about, and if at all possible, remove him from the frightful

situation.

* Yawning is a calming signal for dogs. When your dog is

nervous or unsure of a situation or person, you (and that person)

should sit down by your dog, turn your head and focus slightly

away from the dog, and yawn continually. I am not talking about

30 seconds of yawning, rather 3-30 minutes of consistent,

passive yawning. Try it, over time it should make your dog more

comfortable.

* It is important to avoid eye-contact, especially if the dog is used

to running away or submissive peeing. When you are able to be

close to the dog, kneel or sit down so you are on his level and

turn your head away from the dog and lick your lips. Continue

doing this until the dog either ceases being nervous, or brings

their face closer to yours in a gesture of friendship. If/when this

occurs, praise the dog's efforts with kind words and a gentle

chest rub, however still avoid eye-contact. Whenever you are

close to a scared or submissive dog, it is important to avoid

eye-contact so the dog will not feel threatened in any way.

* If she's food oriented give visitors some little treats to hold in their

hands & occasionally drop next to her as they walk by.

* Do not over-stimulate or push the dog too far to fast. Let the

dog regulate how close he can get to other people, places and

things. If you push a scared dog too far, you will create a

neurosis that will be more difficult to treat.

* If the dog is scared of human contact, even from you, pet the

dog unexpectedly as you walk by. Do it quickly and friendly, and

then keep walking. The dog will probably be scared and

surprised, for if he knew you were going to pet him, he would've

run away and not allowed it. By sneaking in friendly petting with

no consequences (you simply walk away) the dog will learn that

being touched is not a bad thing.

* Being scared is very stressful. Exercise is one of the most

beneficial ways to relieve stress, so make sure your dog gets

plenty of it. If your dog likes other dogs (if you don't know, find

out) I strongly recommend that you find a dog for him to play with

on a weekly basis (more often, even better). Canine

companionship is very important to dogs, and especially a dog

that does not trust many humans, another canine can relieve

more stress than anything else. Be sure to allow the dogs to

romp around and play unrestricted (except for a fence) until they

tire out. This may be one of the best therapies that you can give

a shy dog.

Great info Mita, thanks

[ellz]

What I suggested worked for me with a very scared 8 year old dog who had come from a kennel environment in the USA and through Hawaiian quarantine and a home quarantine situation in New Zealand. I took him from being a dog that was retired from the show ring as a youngster of not much more than 6 months of age, because he freaked out and who would pee when a stranger so much as looked at him, to a confident, friendly All Breeds Best In Show winning dog at the age of 9 years and 2 days and his Australian title.

I'm not for one minute suggesting that the OP should back their dog into a corner and terrorise it, but they need to learn NOT to reinforce fearful behaviours with their own reactions and body language.

It is tough, but it can be done.

[yellowgirl]

Welcome Yoshi.Maltese . How long have you had Yoshi for? Have you had him since a pup or just got him recently?

I also had a very timid dog. My Madeline was terrified of everything when I got her about a year ago. I used a lot of positive reinforcement with her but didn't reward or acknowledge scared behaviour. She was too scared to go outside at first so I spent that time building her confidence indoors first, teaching her to sit, say 'please' and dance. This really helped her confidence and she loved the praise, cuddles and treats. It made a huge difference to her.

I had friends and neighbours come into the house for about 10 minutes at a time, scatter treats, and sit on the floor with treats in their outstretched hands (face averted, arm to the side) and we just chatted to each other basically ignoring the dog. Eventually she realised that there was no threat and people weren't as scary as she thought.

We started walks very gradually, going further each time, but to start with it was just to the end of the driveway and back. I kept up a sing-song conversation with myself the whole time, walking confidently and telling her what fun she was having. The neighbours thought I was barmey but it worked for Madeline. My voice and actions were happy and confident and she learned to trust that she was safe on a walk.

A year later she has come such a long way. She's the first at the door to greet visitors now and has worked out that if she puts on her cute act and does her dancing that people will give her smiles and attention. She loves going for walks now, we have an occasional upset if she sees another dog but I just talk happy-happy all the way through it and keep walking. If we meet a person she's a bit reserved at first, but when she realises she's safe she wants to stop and say hi and do her dance for them.

When I first got Madeline I didn't have much info and wasn't sure at first how to help build the confidence of such a terrified dog, but I thought about how she must be feeling in this new environment after 3 years of trying to protect herself from a scary life. My heart seemed to know what she needed and thankfully she responded.

Mita's tips are spot on! It might be a good idea to print them out and share them with the family. One of the best things I learnt about were calming signals (lip licking, yawning, etc) and even now it helps me to tune in to how my dogs are feeling. I'm also a big fan of positive reward and reinforcement.

Good luck with Yoshi, don't rush him or expect him to understand everything at once. He will be looking to you to guide him and to let him know that he is safe with you. It will take time

[Yoshi.Maltese]

Yes, to what Erny just said.

We were given these tips to build confidence in a shy & timid dog. To help a young tibbie girl who was extremely timid. Some of the ideas helped her greatly:

* Encourge her to do chasey games, when a treat or toy is tied at the end of a string.

And she's encouraged to chase it. Apparently that helps the

submissive dog to 'feel' & act more dominantly.

* Try to protect the dog's personal space. Do not let strangers

overwhelm him, etc. You may not be aware of a passersby

actually petting the dog. It is amazing what really goes on. Do

not allow people (even family members) to pet the dog on the top

of the head or behind his ears. Instead, pat and scratch the dog

on his chest and neck. This is much less threatening to a dog.

* Teach the dog how to play with you. Entice the dog for a game

of chase, with the dog chasing you. If he won't chase you while

you're running, try crawling, yes really. Crawl on the floor on all

fours away from him, then lie down and roll. Cover your face and

make high-pitched whimpering noises. This should entice the

dog to come over to you. This is success, praise the dog and

then walk away and try it again later.

* If the dog is scared of people, instruct people to sit down with

their backs facing the dog. Then, hold out a their hand (behind

them) for the dog with a food treat in it. Gradually, the person

can turn so that they are sideways, and then facing the dog.

Avoid eye-contact until the dog is no longer scared of this

particular person.

* Do not stroke a scared dog and say "It's OK." This is perceived

as praise by the dog and will make it more likely that the dog will

repeat his fear again next time. Instead, give robust pats on the

sides and act happy, pretend there is nothing to be scared

about, and if at all possible, remove him from the frightful

situation.

* Yawning is a calming signal for dogs. When your dog is

nervous or unsure of a situation or person, you (and that person)

should sit down by your dog, turn your head and focus slightly

away from the dog, and yawn continually. I am not talking about

30 seconds of yawning, rather 3-30 minutes of consistent,

passive yawning. Try it, over time it should make your dog more

comfortable.

* It is important to avoid eye-contact, especially if the dog is used

to running away or submissive peeing. When you are able to be

close to the dog, kneel or sit down so you are on his level and

turn your head away from the dog and lick your lips. Continue

doing this until the dog either ceases being nervous, or brings

their face closer to yours in a gesture of friendship. If/when this

occurs, praise the dog's efforts with kind words and a gentle

chest rub, however still avoid eye-contact. Whenever you are

close to a scared or submissive dog, it is important to avoid

eye-contact so the dog will not feel threatened in any way.

* If she's food oriented give visitors some little treats to hold in their

hands & occasionally drop next to her as they walk by.

* Do not over-stimulate or push the dog too far to fast. Let the

dog regulate how close he can get to other people, places and

things. If you push a scared dog too far, you will create a

neurosis that will be more difficult to treat.

* If the dog is scared of human contact, even from you, pet the

dog unexpectedly as you walk by. Do it quickly and friendly, and

then keep walking. The dog will probably be scared and

surprised, for if he knew you were going to pet him, he would've

run away and not allowed it. By sneaking in friendly petting with

no consequences (you simply walk away) the dog will learn that

being touched is not a bad thing.

* Being scared is very stressful. Exercise is one of the most

beneficial ways to relieve stress, so make sure your dog gets

plenty of it. If your dog likes other dogs (if you don't know, find

out) I strongly recommend that you find a dog for him to play with

on a weekly basis (more often, even better). Canine

companionship is very important to dogs, and especially a dog

that does not trust many humans, another canine can relieve

more stress than anything else. Be sure to allow the dogs to

romp around and play unrestricted (except for a fence) until they

tire out. This may be one of the best therapies that you can give

a shy dog.

Thank you so much for the detailed explanations, I will remember this.

Much appreciated.

[Zhou Xuanyao]

In the meantime while your working with him, I would not socialize the dog.

Walk the dog, but do not necessarily have any direct contact with people. Definetly no puppy pre-school, they are hit and miss at the best of times, certainly no place for a timid pup.

Basically the idea is, you do not want to make the dog worse by putting it in over its head or in situations its not ready for.