My Dog Stresses Me Out

[OSoSwift]

I would say to those that are frustrated.

Go to the really good trainers even if it is a bit out of your way.

A few trips of an hour or two could be the differnece between frustration for the next 12 to 16 years and enjoying your dog.

Now doesn't that make it sound like it is worth it?

Good luck I know just how frustrating and soul destroying a dog like that can be.

[Vickie]

I've been watching the Dog Whisperer with Cesar Millan, so I make a loop with my leash and have it at the top of the neck. Everytime he pulls I give a tug to get him to stop (but he still continues to pull after walking again)... so far I've only used this method for the last 3 walks, so we'll see over time.

He is actually doing a lot more than just making a loop & tugging. I used this technique on a dog yesterday at the pound that I was struggling to manage on lead. It is the first time I have ever tried it & was delighted that it worked instantly...just like it does for Caesar. She went from nearly dragging me over to loose lead walking in just a few minutes. There are a number of other things he explains & does at the same time though & I incorporated all these.

Edited February 19, 2010 by Vickie

[Sam&Saki]

Spitz breeds are independent thinkers, you just need to convince them it's worth their while to do what you tell them and they'll do it Otherwise they probably won't

You need to very consistent and clear in your directions, don't let them get away with something one time and not the next, and always use exactly the same word and hand movement when telling them what to do.

Always reinforce your status as leader of the pack - through eating first, walking through doors first, starting and ending play times on your own terms, etc. Also make your dog sit, drop, or otherwise follow your directions before feeding them, before giving them a treat, before giving them play time.

Having the right type of collar and lead makes a huge difference too - often Spitzies do well on various types of halters, as collars or body harnesses just encourage their sledding / pulling on lead instincts.

Have either of you two put your dogs through basic obedience at an obedience club / school?

IMO if you put your dog through puppy pre-school, socialisation, and basic obedience; you're much less likely to end up with an untrained dog needing one-on-one behaviourist help down the track.

There are obedience schools in virtually every suburb, at all different costs, unless you're so rural you're several hours from the nearest town, there's no reason for not putting your dog through one during puppyhood after vaccinations as a matter of course IMO.

[keroppiyo]

Have either of you two put your dogs through basic obedience at an obedience club / school?

Yes, I've been to different types of training. With (1) RSPCA that ONLY uses positive reinforcement and allowing no contact or playtime between dogs, (2) socialisation classes run by Lort Smith that allow our dogs to play freely followed by some basic training using praise and treats as rewards, and (3) local obedience school that is similar to the socialisation classes, but a bit more formal and only using praise as reward. So I've tried each different method learnt from the various classes. (1) using food to lure, constant feeding, ignore bad behaviour/pulling and just stop in my tracks; (2) stop when she pulls or change directions when she gets too far ahead; (3) stop walking when she pulls, but also be firm and quick tug of leash to get her to return to my side.

At the moment I'm more doing the stopping when leash is tight, and continue walking when she turns back to me (only her head will turn back, but I think it's good enough), also giving treats (relatively high frequency) when the leash is slack. All the methods I've tried have some, but limited success, and everything just goes down the drain as soon as she sees people, dogs, bikes, and basically anything else that moves. It seems she gets angry at me for not letting her chase after those things, and will react by doing zoomies in between jumping at me, growling and trying to bite.

As for at home she always talks back to us, so we have tried using the command quiet, tried making loud noise (only tried this a couple of times), or ignoring, yet she still barks at us everyday.

I've tried to do lots of research on the internet, including on this forum, and reading training books, but there are just too many methods (some of them completely conflicting) and I'm probably not using the right one/doing it correctly for Buffy. So I think professional help is in order.

[Danois]

If those other trainers are too far away then I recommend Trudi and Julie at dogLogic (in the Inner West).

[sas]

It's a one hour drive for us too, a lot of people travel 2 hours for her classes...she's that's good....I guess it depends on how frustrated you are

Wow... THAT good eh? Maybe I should go check it out. Is it a one day/evening thing or once every week for a few weeks?

Luci Ellem Obedience classes are on Monday nights, I think the beginners start from around 7pm.

You can't be precious if you go to Luci Ellem, she will help you but you have to be willing to let her.

[poodlefan]

The first step to take in turning these situations around is to take responsibility for the situation.

You're stressed out because you haven't trained your dog to display the behaviour you want from it. That's not the dog's fault.

These things can be remedied with effort and practice. But the first step must be to stop seeing your dog as the problem. Dogs pull on the lead because they haven't been taught that NOT pulling brings them more rewards in the long run.

I'd travel twice the distance for a recommended trainer than one that just happens to have the area franchise and 6 weeks of training.

Good luck - all dogs are trainable. There are plenty of Spitzs out there with great manners. You see them in dog sports too.

[CP*]

LostyJai - how old is Shiro, because it sounds very much like adolescent or youthful behaviour. Keroppiyo, Buffy is definately entering adolescence. Remember these can be difficult times, even when the dogs are desexed. They are testing boundries, learning to be an adult, but still getting puppy urges, becoming defiant, a little bit antisocial (or over social), get selective deafness and their brains turn to mush. Sound familiar? Heck, not a lot of difference to human adolescence. A lot of dogs are surrendered as adolescents because people cant manage their behaviour. But part of adolescence is asking questions and learning right from wrong, and trying as it is, it is your job as leader to show your dog the right way.

First of all, it will get better. It would be a good idea to keep the dogs in training while they get through this period. Join your local obedience club and go to regular classes for a while. And remember a tired adolescent is the best sort - so lots of stimulation and exercise will help.

If you are worried about the pulling and lunging on lead you could try a Gentle Leader head collar or a Sporn harness.

You might want to try to NILF (Nothing in Life is Free) approach as it may help give them focus - you will find quite a bit on DOL and the internet.

Keroppiyo - positive methods probably will be more useful for dealing with an adolescent and you should always train in a way you feel comfortable. But you can still be fair but firm, positive but set boundries and limits. Definately keep up the training, and maybe look for a club that only uses methods you are happy with.

[poodlefan]

CP*

If you are worried about the pulling and lunging on lead you could try a Gentle Leader head collar or a Sporn harness.

Head halters are entirely unsuitable for use in controlling lunging.

I'd suggest a training program before resorting to additional control devices. If one is required, then the harness would be my pick.

[Bjelkier]

Have either of you two put your dogs through basic obedience at an obedience club / school?

Yes, I've been to different types of training. With (1) RSPCA that ONLY uses positive reinforcement and allowing no contact or playtime between dogs, (2) socialisation classes run by Lort Smith that allow our dogs to play freely followed by some basic training using praise and treats as rewards, and (3) local obedience school that is similar to the socialisation classes, but a bit more formal and only using praise as reward. So I've tried each different method learnt from the various classes. (1) using food to lure, constant feeding, ignore bad behaviour/pulling and just stop in my tracks; (2) stop when she pulls or change directions when she gets too far ahead; (3) stop walking when she pulls, but also be firm and quick tug of leash to get her to return to my side.

At the moment I'm more doing the stopping when leash is tight, and continue walking when she turns back to me (only her head will turn back, but I think it's good enough), also giving treats (relatively high frequency) when the leash is slack. All the methods I've tried have some, but limited success, and everything just goes down the drain as soon as she sees people, dogs, bikes, and basically anything else that moves. It seems she gets angry at me for not letting her chase after those things, and will react by doing zoomies in between jumping at me, growling and trying to bite.

As for at home she always talks back to us, so we have tried using the command quiet, tried making loud noise (only tried this a couple of times), or ignoring, yet she still barks at us everyday.

I've tried to do lots of research on the internet, including on this forum, and reading training books, but there are just too many methods (some of them completely conflicting) and I'm probably not using the right one/doing it correctly for Buffy. So I think professional help is in order.

Sorry this made me laugh a little bit.

You have a Samoyed, barking and talking to you is what they do!

Having said that I see a difference between barking/talking and being a pain in the backside, ie: barking constantly, all day every day.

It is very possible to train out the nusiance barking but I'm not sure about the chatting

As for training, everyone has their oppinion of what works. I found that totally positive training didn't work with my Sammies at all. The idea of getting a good trainer in is a good one, they will be able to watch you and really be able to set you on the right path.

On and I have replied to your PM

Edited February 20, 2010 by Wolfsong