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JulesP

JulesP

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On top of this I've been watching at training as the newbies are coming through. My comment would be that you need a drivey and toy driven type of dog to get the best result from the method. Otherwise it is quite difficult to build the speed you are looking for.

Do you think it can be trained relatively well with a drivey food driven dog AD? Or does the dog really need to be toy/prey driven?

SG suggests staying on concrete/paving for longer rather than moving to grass. I used GoodOs as they were good and weighty to throw and visible.

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The Spotted Devil

The Spotted Devil

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On top of this I've been watching at training as the newbies are coming through. My comment would be that you need a drivey and toy driven type of dog to get the best result from the method. Otherwise it is quite difficult to build the speed you are looking for.

Do you think it can be trained relatively well with a drivey food driven dog AD? Or does the dog really need to be toy/prey driven?

Definitely food here! Or the other option, for ease of use is to use a food pouch tug toy - helps drive the dog forward and they still get the food reward.

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RubyStar

RubyStar

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I'm saddened by the KK thing. We don't have them in Perth but my eastern states holiday treat is always a KK (and a Starbucks caramel frappuccino mmm!! Don't have them here either!) What will I do on my holidays now? :nahnah:

To keep this semi-on topic :rofl: I trained Ruby with 2x2 (though not entirely, we never started with open poles), and now I have started Millie on them and so far she's only up to the 2 poles at a slight angle. I enjoy this method :laugh:

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Agility Dogs

Agility Dogs

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On top of this I've been watching at training as the newbies are coming through. My comment would be that you need a drivey and toy driven type of dog to get the best result from the method. Otherwise it is quite difficult to build the speed you are looking for.

Do you think it can be trained relatively well with a drivey food driven dog AD? Or does the dog really need to be toy/prey driven?

What Ness said. Also - where you are training it will be easy to lose the food in the grass. :laugh:

That said I use food for behaviour and toys to build speed/drive so I'm not experienced/haven't spent a lot of time working out how to make the food thing work. You may have a better idea - would love to discuss.

Cheers

T

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Agility Dogs

Agility Dogs

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AD, how do the ADAA weaves differ from the ANKC weaves? Your girl is great, loved the videos!

Thanks - my little girly is very special and one very lucky little pet shop puppy. (that won't be happening again!) If she had gone to a 'normal' home I don't have a lot of doubt where she would have ended up. :nahnah:

ADAA weavers are 50mm narrower than the ANKC ones. Its funny watching my two when they swap from one to the other.

Xena is preprogrammed to do ADAA weaves and you can see her lengthen her stride first time through the bigger set. CK has a good look first time through and then decides his corse of action. :laugh: If I can manage him through the first 4 poles he explodes into the weaving dog he can be, but it is a confidence thing after he hurt himself early on in his career.

Need to get back onto fixing it. Bigger problems to worry about though -we need to work on his confidence again after a bit of a set back on the weekend. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGH. Will have to fix that up before worrying about technical skills.

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huski

huski

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Huski SG uses food to shape the preliminary stages and throws food as a reward. It helps if you have something you can throw and I guess a toy you can throw further than you can food.

I bet you could frisbee a Krispy Kream beautifully! :o

You crack me up!!! Hahahaha! That's gold. Great idea ;)

Yup, if there's no video, it didn't happen Becks! :eat:

Eta: if there are no Krispy Kremes, you could probably shotput a cupcake? I'm getting visions of a beagle olympics!

Don't laugh. I am seriously considering it ;) :party:

Krispy Kremes has gone into receivership.

I know and Daisy is DEVASTATED :D

What Ness said. Also - where you are training it will be easy to lose the food in the grass. ;)

That said I use food for behaviour and toys to build speed/drive so I'm not experienced/haven't spent a lot of time working out how to make the food thing work. You may have a better idea - would love to discuss.

I am looking forward to discussing it too Tony :bolt::eek: Hope you have time for a chat on Tuesday. I am really looking forward to it. Daisy is a pretty low drive dog so I am sure working her in food drive is nothing like the drive you would get with your guys working with a prey item. I also have no idea how agility works so I am sure it will be one big learning curve ;)

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Agility Dogs

Agility Dogs

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I used relatively short grass and squares of chicken breast. They stand out on the grass.

Barkly is not a super drivey dog and far more motivated by food than toys.

Just for clarity guys - I'm not saying it won't work if your dog isn't drivey or toy motivated. BUT, this thread (and I'm not concerned it has deviated) was about my dogs and what I want from them. From what I have seen the best results are with dogs that are driven and do like their toys. That said, I like the understanding that the method helps develop for any style of dog.

Like anything it may need to be adapted for your particular dog or style of working your dog.

I'm not criticsing anyone who is going down a different path and hope no one has taken my comment to suggest that. At our club we have a massive variety of people and dogs and that is something we have set out to cultivate. It ranges from a lady with whippets who wants calm and quiet dogs who don't get excited at all and is, in her words, learning heaps and having great fun through non-traditional agility breeds like boxers and snow puppies to people with previously out of control, totally insane working mixes who are working on their relationship and improving every week.

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Luke W

Luke W

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I used relatively short grass and squares of chicken breast. They stand out on the grass.

Barkly is not a super drivey dog and far more motivated by food than toys.

Just for clarity guys - I'm not saying it won't work if your dog isn't drivey or toy motivated. BUT, this thread (and I'm not concerned it has deviated) was about my dogs and what I want from them. From what I have seen the best results are with dogs that are driven and do like their toys. That said, I like the understanding that the method helps develop for any style of dog.

Like anything it may need to be adapted for your particular dog or style of working your dog.

I'm not criticsing anyone who is going down a different path and hope no one has taken my comment to suggest that. At our club we have a massive variety of people and dogs and that is something we have set out to cultivate. It ranges from a lady with whippets who wants calm and quiet dogs who don't get excited at all and is, in her words, learning heaps and having great fun through non-traditional agility breeds like boxers and snow puppies to people with previously out of control, totally insane working mixes who are working on their relationship and improving every week.

No problem. I hope I didn't come across as dissing your objectives. I mentioned Barkly because Huski asked about non-toy driven dogs.

I wish Barkly was more toy driven and a bit more drivey.

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ness

ness

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Not strictly related to 2x2 but my older girl was trained in agility only using food as a reward and she has reasonably fast weavers (I certainly wouldn't consider them slow). She was trained using a combination of 2x2 (before the DVD came out as we are talking years ago now), luring and a million ways. I went to 2x2 with her because I wasn't happy with her entrances and then we added 2 poles at a time. She was only ever rewarded for completing the poles with food.

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