Youtubing Dolers

[pie]

I'm ready to beat YouTube with a stick Still can't watch anything! It just leaves me with a white screen like it's loading... but 10 mins later, it's still like that!! It's not my internet either, because last night I was using a different one to what I am now! Might be my shoddy laptop then! Boo!!!!

Do you have a different browser you could try to see if it works on there?

[RubyStar]

I just rebooted, working now (finally!)

[pie]

Yay! Pesky computers.

Edited February 11, 2010 by amypie

[RubyStar]

Here is one I didn't upload from last night

Poor Ness

Looks like a doggy dancing routine with two of them :D

[TerraNik]

Jedi -

Ahsoka -

Terranik your kids are doing really really well and I really hope you get Jedi's allergy problems sorted. Having an allergy kid myself I know what you are going through. I am now 3 years into the densensitization program and we are doing OK - although I have just discovered another food that she is allergic to and I am now trying to sort out her red chest and belly.

You need to slow your left about turns down and perhaps put in an extra step as you wizz around and lose them. I would be looking at playing the hansel and gretel game where you reward them for finding heel and throw the food to force them out of heel and then C/T once they find heel again.

With Ahsoka - in the recall when you left the dog - you will notice that the dog was very distracted and kept looking from side to side. I have this issue with Beans and have started going back and rewarding more often - clicking and throwing food so she is now more focused on me when I leave her.

Keep up the great work.

Thanks... I know, the left turns are horrrrrrid and it's something that I'm working on with them, particularly Jedi. I used to do the hansel and gretel game - I'll have to get back into it! It's one of Ahsoka's favourite games.

Thanks for the tips with Ahsoka -- her focus is a bit shoddy in general! Hopefully now that I am putting in more time with her it'll get better.

And as you can see we have a vocalising issue She's never done that while heeling before, but often 'whinges' (quiet whining) while doing stays! Almost as if she's saying, "come onn! Let's go doooo something!" Any tips for that?! I don't want to put her in a trialing ring until she's quiet during stays - that's my biggest issue with her (and wiggle bum SFE's - but they are getting much better). She's the type of dog that doesn't like to be stationary for too long!

[~*Shell*~]

Shell you need to get your act sorted it looked like you were going for a Sunday stroll. Walk with some purpose - do some heeling without your dog so you can get your footwork sorted. You dog is doing a terrific job despite your handling.

Even though the dog is a novice dog - as Ness said start working on reducing your signals.

I would like to see another video in 4 weeks time - NO PRESSURE!

Thanks Ptolomy!!

Zero's having real problems understanding visual signals at the moment (aka, I haven't found the right way to teach him obviously!). Without an exaggerated signal, he totally refuses to drop, even with a voice command and he seems to totally have forgotten his stand last week. Any ideas? I've been working on change of position with him but it just doesn't seem to be carrying over to his heeling. He'll do it when we're doing slow heeling (the stand, the drop still needs a huge signal) but any faster and he just sits unless I exaggerate it.

Edited February 12, 2010 by ~*Shell*~

[ness]

Hi TerraNik

My thoughts on the vocalising issue (and you know Kenz was a pain with her freestyle and the barking in the routine and I hate it ) is that I would probably use a time out and deal with it rather than ignore it and hope it got better. I would not permit the whinging or vocalisation in any criteria that I was rewarding. Ness will occasionally whinge at training but because she isn't so keen I wouldn't be so concerned. Kenz on the other hand has a strict no whinging/barking policy (well now ). I thought it would be something that would disappear in stressful situations with her so didn't think to exclude it initially but knowing what I do now I would.

There was a great post on Susan Garretts blog about barking dogs while working and the upshort of that was if you don't want it as a part of a particular behavior (as you don't for obedience) then don't include it as part of a rewarded behavior. Obviously this will be harder for some dogs then others and I suspect its one that if you let slide then it will become harder to undo. It almost becomes a part of the behavior. I know with Kenz and sending her around objects for example its virtually impossible to get her to complete this without adding a woof.

She doesn't as yet thankfully do any of this when we do obedience but I am very careful to never ever reward a response if there was any vocalisation.

Vocalisation = no reward and most of the time I will start over and try again.

[ness]

Shell I had a similar issue with Kenzie and her stand for ages.

Sue guru showed me how to resolve it and I won't say it happened overnight but it eventually happened. In my case I went back to making sure I had a solid verbal cue on the behavior. So we went back to me giving my new verbal cue then a short delay and using my shitty hand signal and clicking and rewarding. Kept doing that for a while until I had a new solid verbal cue. Then you can attach the new hand signal once the dog is going down on the verbal only.

ETA. Have you taught Zero a fold back drop - so from the stand into a drop without sitting first?

Edited February 12, 2010 by ness

[Ptolomy]

Terranik - I had the volume off so I heard nothing - now if only we could do that in real life.

Cider has a vocalization issue and i have since found out that her dad was very vocal - so its been a case of stopping whatever we are doing if she starts making noises.

I would try taking this issue away from training to begin with and playing with the dog, tugging, roughing her up etc and if she starts vocalizing then stopping the game for a few seconds and turning your back and then resuming the game. If you are consistent, the dog should get the idea pretty quickly.

When introducing it to training we need to be careful that the dog doesn't shut down if you mark it by stopping training and putting her away. I don't know your dog well enough - hence the suggestion to try it away from training to begin with.

[Ptolomy]

[

Zero's having real problems understanding visual signals at the moment (aka, I haven't found the right way to teach him obviously!). Without an exaggerated signal, he totally refuses to drop, even with a voice command and he seems to totally have forgotten his stand last week. Any ideas? I've been working on change of position with him but it just doesn't seem to be carrying over to his heeling. He'll do it when we're doing slow heeling (the stand, the drop still needs a huge signal) but any faster and he just sits unless I exaggerate it.

Try doing it for his dinner - so break his dinner into 3 bowls and if he drops with a reduced signal - then he gets 1/3 of his meal - if he doesn't drop - the dinner goes back on the bench and you walk away for 30 seconds.

Make sure your signal is consistent and that you are also giving a verbal.

[ness]

Ptolomy think from what I know of Soaks Terra will have an uphill battle as Lappies are known for being vocal and Soaks is pretty vocal in every day life . I don't think pulling her up for being vocal would shut her down from what I have seen when I stayed there though.

[RubyStar]

Shell I had a similar issue with Kenzie and her stand for ages.

Sue guru showed me how to resolve it and I won't say it happened overnight but it eventually happened. In my case I went back to making sure I had a solid verbal cue on the behavior. So we went back to me giving my new verbal cue then a short delay and using my shitty hand signal and clicking and rewarding. Kept doing that for a while until I had a new solid verbal cue. Then you can attach the new hand signal once the dog is going down on the verbal only.

ETA. Have you taught Zero a fold back drop - so from the stand into a drop without sitting first?

So how would I work this in reverse? Millie is much better with signals than she is with verbal commands. I still can't get her to stand on just a verbal (then again, I haven't been working on correcting this ) I can pretty much do signals heelwork with Millie and she does it (without distractions of course )

Ruby works better on verbals. I can give her a verbal commands for things like sit/drop/stand in quick succession and she nails them. If I give her just a signal, she looks at me like "umm was I meant to do that? Because I didn't hear you give the verbal command, too!" Which is obviously something else I need to work on!

Gotta love dogs that give you opposite things to work on

[ness]

The pattern RubyStar is new cue followed by old cue. So I guess the same would hold true. You would just give the new cue which in your case would be a verbal then delay a bit and give the old cue - the signal. Initially you do them pretty close together but slowly delay and the dog starts responding to the first cue as being the cue for the behavior.

Ask Sue or Sandi they can probably explain it far better than I .

Edited February 12, 2010 by ness

[RubyStar]

Yes this makes sense, thanks

[pie]

These are from last night, my videos are pretty basic though I really need to harass someone at training to film Kyzer doing a course run, though I'm not looking forward to seeing how unco I am

Teaching Trixie to 'line up'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3swP957qRLw

This is our first go at this, would really like feedback, please tell me if I'm doing it wrong! I'm standing next to her (trying to anyway!) with her on my left when she is sitting and clicking and treating when she's in the right spot. Going to try and do it a couple of times a day.

Also some Rear Cross work with Kyzer.

Sitting and moving behind him to teach him to follow where I am

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pe8wo2rkrPg

Sending him over a jump and crossing behind, rewarding him if he doesn't spin. I want to assign a command to this later but not sure, what do other agility people do?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Q1xS9jpxZs

[ness]

Amypie - I am not sure how everybody else teaches it but I taught it initially by luring the dog back behind my leg and closing my leg up into heel position and C/Ting. I also conditioned it initially with the dog next to a wall so they couldn't sit squiffy.

There is some video here of me teaching Kenz at 12 weeks - the setting up at heel stuff is towards the end of the clip from about the 1min 40 mark.

Here is a bit of the next stage where you hold the treat and give the dog the command -

Edited February 12, 2010 by ness

[sas]

LOL I would be scared to post here, the people who I think are doing good got told otherwise!

[ness]

:D sas - nah don't be scared Ptolomy just sets the standard really high and doesn't like to see people have to redo things later once they have been bitten with the bug of wanting to continue trialling. Might as well have it right at the beginning .

[sas]

LOL Well may I say well in advance of me posting any video's, I am a rubbish handler with horrendous co-ordination and probably does everything technicaly wrong for trialing BUT I do want to get CCD done this year....I'm hoping to be able to walk in a straight line before 2011!

[ness]

Amypie just watched your rear cross sit video with K - are you marking the moment you cross behind and he turns his head in the correct direction? I thought that was the idea of that particular exercise unless I have it confused?