Instructing At Obedience Clubs

[Seita]

I know many people who trial here don't train their dogs through classes at their clubs. I certainly don't either. But I assume that some or many of you do instruct at your clubs. I'm after a bit of feedback on how you handle a class situation at a normal obedience club especially if you don't put your own dogs through classes?

I haven't instructed for several years but have been asked to start at my new club next year. I have no issues with this but I am trying to plan ahead to have some good ideas on how to keep things moving, and interesting for the class without resorting to boring and the old fashioned paddock-bashing that so many clubs still do. I myself refuse to train a dog through classes as it's just too distracting an environment to teach good behaviours so I'm struggling with the challenge of how to run a class that I most likely wouldn't attend!!

Here in QLD just recently we had an instructors seminar, which was aimed at sharing information between our clubs on training methods and how to handle classes. It was apparant that many clubs including my own still rely largely on large blocks of heel work thus boring the brains out of the poor dogs. The main aim of most clubs is to recruit more people into the world of trailling but when the dog (and often the handler too) has been bored through the class training this becomes quite difficult.

So how do you guys run a class?

Feel free to give me thoughts, feedback, ideas, examples of how you would/do do it?

[Tiggy]

I agree with everything you said about being bored with the paddock bashing etc. I'm not training at a club for the same reason. What level class will you be Instructing?

[Zug Zug]

Also keen to find out more - I will be trying my hand at instructing for the first time next year.

I agree lots of heeling was really hard for us when we were coming up through the classes. Still is - dog gets bored, I get bored. It always seemed to me a lot to expect from young dogs, in particular.

So what are the alternatives? The classes I will be involved with are 45 mins. Sometimes the class sizes are very large - up to 20 dogs (which is why they've been out looking for more instructors).

[JulesP]

We have so much stuff to get through each lesson at my club that you couldn't fit in a heap of heeling if you tried! We do a lot of 'life skills' stuff like toy removal, leaving objects, food refusal, going through gates, going to your mat.

I do also take my own dogs through the levels. They have all loved going to school and I am not scared to do my own thing in class if I feel the need to.

Our lessons are all planned for us btw. I do change things around as needed but I have a plan of what I am supposed to do each week if I need it. We have cheat notes for the instructors to follow and homework sheets for the pupils.

There isn't much in the program that I don't agree with. If I didn't agree then I wouldn't instruct there.

[Seita]

I haven't had a chance to see the instructors manual for this club yet but I assume it's similar to the one from my old club. 4 levels of classes, one month each class and a set list of things to acheive in that class level before being elevated.

My current idea is to mix it up a bit by doing a small amount of heeling, followed by something else such as focus work or stays depending on the level I'm instructing. So there might be a fair bit of heeling throughout the class but instead of doing long blocks of it, it will be broken down into short bursts to keep both dogs and handlers interested.

I think they might be revising the manual and I am going to push to add in more elements of teaching the heel position first before actually heeling in motion, and also incorporating more life skills like loose lead walking etc. Not sure how I will go with making changes though!

I like the sound of your club JulesP!

[Dova]

Jules I'd love to go to your club it sound like fun, oh no I've use the word fun & dog club together , our local club does the whole paddock bash yank & yell thing . I try to make it more interesting for my dogs by playing with them during the class, not distracting others though, make a game out of the exercises & pulling out if the dog loses interest. I have to go because it's the only way to get mine use to working around other dogs when at trials, maybe I'll suggest some new things for the trainers to try, don't think they can shoot me, can they .

[OSoSwift]

Like the sound of yours as well Jules.

I agree with a little bit of "heel" work broken up by other things.

Many moons ago we also taught things like touch, leg weaves, spins, paw shakes high fives etc so the dogs and owners could do some fun stuff that was a little more relaxed.Most of the heeling exercises which were very short were done on a large circle originally, with lines an turns done a little later. But even then most heeling, sits, drop etc were done on a large circle with the lines and turns done later in the lesson.

We did lots of focus exercises and position "games" so the dogs really understood what the heel position was before we got too excited about doing to much heeling, turning etc.

We always told people to give thier dog a relax and play at any time if they felt their dog was zoning out, or we would ask them to take them for a rest if we thought they were.

I think it is great you are thinking so indepth so early I would like to come to a class like yours.

[JulesP]

Well this will spin you out then - they have teach their dogs tricks to pass each level!

[Paulp]

I am a trainee instructor at my club and the way we are learning to go about it is to break up the heel work with other aspects of training (eg focus, socialisation, recalls, even games) depending on what level is being taught. There is still a fair bit of heel work. especially at the higher levels where you start teaching trial standard, but we try not to do too much at a time.

[Zug Zug]

Well this will spin you out then - they have teach their dogs tricks to pass each level!

Now that's really cool! It's always so much more fun teaching the silly things. And all dogs should have a few good party tricks, shouldn't they?

[pipsqueak]

Just my 2 cents worth - just remember that stays can also bore the brains out of both dog and handler . With lower classed, my best advice is to give each dog and handler as much space from other dogs as possible - decreases excitement level and makes concentration a tad easier.

[Keshwar]

The club where I instruct has mostly done away with heeling at the lower levels. The focus is more on loose lead walking. The theory being that that is what most people who turn up to a dog club want. They want a dog that they can walk nicely, who won't jump on people and will play nicely. I really like this change of focus as it does away with the boring paddock bashing and means instructors can have a bit more fun in classes.

When I can I take my young girl to classes. Like Jules I'm not afraid to do my own thing and most of the other instructors are happy for me to do this.

Bear.

[julew]

Hi All,

Having jumped ship from the regimented format of the local obedience club I now run puppy Kinder for the local PetStock and instruct at our new Companion Dog Club. The Kinder is basic manners and simple obedience with the focus on learning a method of training that supports all the things you wish to teach your dog. With only four hours in total we have to cover a lot of ground in a short time and much of it is devoted to solving client problems and teaching a way to interact with the dog in a positive way for them and for the dog too.

The Companion club focusses on producing (so to speak) well mannered, socially acceptable dogs. Again we teach a positive training method, problem solve and try to keep it a lot of fun. there is no regimented heel work we use loose lead walking, tricks, agility equipment, games and try and run a fun day on a regular basis for students to practice what they have learned in a different (and effectively quite challenging environment). We play games like musical mats, tunnel ball and others. We teach tricks too, they are mentally stimulating for the dog and the handler are a good way for people to work out how to break down an exercises into its components and then fit it back together to get the whole picture and a really good way to get people to work on their reward timing.

In my experience most students struggle with the confidence to break away from within the class and do their own thing so we do encourage people to move out into their dog's comfort zone when needed this way they can work at a rate they find comfortable (if need be on the outskirts of the class) we also work in circles or dotted around not in lines which gives a much more relaxed feel to the whole class. Assessments are offered, once a quarter, which allows people to see what they have achieved and to progress to a higher level if they wish but there is no focus on competitiveness which is one way I firmly believe you can remove the pressure from your students.

[Ptolomy]

Even heelwork you can make a little more interesting by putting out 4 cones in a row 5-6m apart start from cone 1 and have the dog on the side closest to the cone. Heel towards the next cone - when you get there halt so the dog is between your leg and the cone. Then heel forward to the next cone and drop the dog and finally to the last cone and stand. Then you can about turn and head down the other side of the cones repeating the process, only this time the dog doesn't have the cones to help them with straight positions. This can be done in each of the paces.

You can then bring the cones a bit closer together and trying heeling by weaving in and out of the cones.

Or start from cone 1 and heel up and around the first cone and back to the start and then up and around cone 2 and back to the start and up and around cone 3 and back to the start.

Finding heel position is a good one to practice. Have the dog in a sit, take a couple of steps forward and call them into heel. As they progress, you can make this more and more difficult.

For more advanced level stays you can get the handlers when they leave their dogs to sit on the ground, jump up and down, clap their hands, skip as they leave,

[MonElite]

I usually dont have the same people in class, or if I do I try to remember them and their problems.

I always first ask what issues they have with the dogs and I try to address them. For those I know I ask for demos and give tips on how to improve further.

If the people are keen and fun I usually play some kind of a game, something equivalent to musical chairs. Usually something that requires them to motivate dogs to do things fast.

part of the class I spend on agility equipment, most love it.

I end the class with giving them homework and they can ask me any questions they like. I get asked anything and everythings, sometimes about feeding, sometimes about my own dogs, sometimes they request that I show them stuff I do with my puppy etc.

Edited November 13, 2009 by MonElite

[Mystiqview]

I briefly instructed at that club when I was that side of town. You are limited in a way by your manual and what it is each week you teach as they do structure it a little.. Stand this week, stays next week. Also greatly depends on which class you are rostered on.

The hardest part as you are aware, is spending time with those who are lagging behind and not forgetting those who don't need the extra assistance. Also greatly depends on how many in your class.

You could try running some sort of "game" to get the pupils interested and actually training at home. #1 issue I see.. they don't spend the time mid week. Maybe a reward to someone (nothing great) (pigs ear or something) if they say, come next week with a new trick. or something to get them heeling. Maybe an obstacle course, where they have to heel, drop stay, stand etc at different markers. Takes a little away from the old fashioned paddock bash while still learning the basics.

[charli73]

WE did 2 and a bit steady years of obedience and out of all the levels and trainers we had I loved having instructors that knew what they were going to do , they were organised...

I hated getting to class and having 10-15 people being asked "so what do you guys want to do?". Question time aside of course..

I found the organised structured classes were great as they had some heeling, some socialisation and games...

Good luck with the training!

[jaybeece]

Well this will spin you out then - they have teach their dogs tricks to pass each level!

I really like that

I go to Jules's club and it's ace. We still cover the more boring things like staying and heeling, but it's never long enough to get tedius and there is a lot of emphasis on keeping the dogs engaged and motivated in what they're doing. There's also a lot of discussion on how to fix behaviours and setting dogs up for success. Damn good stuff

[Seita]

Well after chatting with the OC last night at a trial it looks like we might be making some changes at our club. I have been told that I will have to ability to run a class in the way I want to as long as the required things are taught. It looks like we'll be making some positive changes to the manual to try and make classes more interesting and exciting so that's a good thing.

I love the ideas so far and will definitely be including some of them in my suggestions to the club on things we can change and adjust.

[luvsdogs]

When I 1st started instructing at my club it was all traditional stuff. Heeling, stays, figure 8s, weaving etc. Since changing over to positive training in 2000 we have a 4 week beginners class which teaches life skills like loose lead walking, food bowl manners, touching all over, calming, watch, a very little heeling as well as the basics. We also encourage tricks. The next class expands on all the above as well as longer stays, food refusal, scent work, retrieving, some agility & more tricks.

Edited November 17, 2009 by luvsdogs