Troy Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 The Puli ANKC Standard(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=149 ) Group: Group 5 (Working Dogs) General Appearance: Sturdy, muscular, wiry with fine bone. Whole well covered with long (according to age), profuse, corded coat. Long hair overshadows eyes like an umbrella. Viewed from side, trunk and limbs should present square figure. Characteristics: Herding dog, medium-sized, nimble and extremely intelligent. Temperament: Lively, wary of strangers but not displaying nervousness or unprovoked aggression. Head And Skull: Disregarding hair, head small and fine with slightly domed skull. From the front it appears round, from the side almost elliptical. Muzzle one-third length of head with well defined stop; not snipy but bluntly rounded. Arches of eye socket well defined, nose relatively large and black, eyerims and flews black in all colours. Eyes: Medium size, dark brown with lively expression. Ears: Set slightly below level of skull, V-shaped, pendant, of medium size, covered with long hair. Length of ears about half length of head. Ears do not appear noticeable, even when alert. Mouth: The roof uniformly dark, or variegated with deep pigmented spots on dark base. Flews tight and black. Tongue bright red. Jaws and teeth strong with perfect scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Neck: Set at an angle of 45 degrees to horizontal; of medium length, tight skinned and muscular. When fully coated, neck appears to merge with body. Forequarters: Shoulders well laid. Elbows tight. Forelegs straight and muscular, and viewed from any angle, vertical. Body: Withers slightly higher than level of back which is medium length. Loin is short and broad, belly slightly tucked up. Ribs deep; rib cage broadening from behind elbows and well sprung. Rump short and slightly sloping but this is not obvious because of tightly curled tail. Hindquarters: Strong and well muscled. Pelvis forming an angle of 90 degrees with thighbone. Well bent stifle. Hocks set fairly low. When viewed from the rear, the legs should be parallel, with feet turning neither in nor out. Wide pelvis desirable, especially in bitches. Feet: Short, round, tight. Hindfeet slightly longer than forefeet. Nails strong, black or slate-grey. Pads are springy, dark grey in colour. Tail: Medium length, curled tightly over the rump-loin area; long hair of the tail mixes indistinguishably with similar hair of rump, so that tail does not appear separate. Gait/Movement: Stride is not far-reaching. Gallop short. Typical movement short-stepping, very quick, in harmony with lively disposition. Movement never heavy, lethargic or lumbering. Coat: Correct proportion of top and undercoat creates, naturally, the desired cords. Matting and felting to be avoided, and combed coat is as undesirable as a neglected one. Coat generally longest on hindquarters, shortest on head and feet. Some dogs will grow a floor-length coat. Colour: Acceptable colours black, rusty-black, white and various shades of grey and apricot. Black sometimes appears weathered, rusty, or with slight intermingling of white hairs. Grey and apricot in all their shades may have an intermingling of black or white hairs, with or without black mask, ear tips and tail tip. The overall appearance of all variants must be that of a solid colour. A white spot on chest of not more than 5 cms (2 ins) is permissible. A few white hairs on feet also permissible. Body skin should be well pigmented and slate grey in colour, especially in blacks and greys. Sizes: Height: Dogs - 40-44 cms (16-17.5 ins) Bitches - 37-41 cms (14.5-16 ins) Weight: Dogs - 13-15 kgs (29-33 lbs) Bitches - 10-13 kgs (22-28.5 lbs) Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum See Photos of the Puli QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? 3. How common is it in Australia? 4. What is the average lifespan? 5. What is the general temperament/personality? 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? 9. How much grooming is required? 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post). Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed. You do not have to answer all questions Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information. See Photos of the Puli Puli Breeders Puli Puppies For Sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulilover Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Breeder, exhibitor 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? The Puli dates back to 800 AD. The Magyars, originally from Asia settled into the Hungarian Plains with their herds of sheep and the Puli. They were used to control the sheep by day and protect the shepherds and flock by night. 3. How common is it in Australia? Not common at all. Most people have never seen one before. 4. What is the average lifespan? 12-16 years 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Lively, energetic, strong bonding, wary of strangers, guarding instinct 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? 1 hour each day, preferably some free running to burn excess energy 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Usually no. Todays Puli still has a very strong herding and guard instinct. Sometimes this behaviour can be mistaken for aggression. Pulis needs strong leadership 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Yes under certain circumstances. The Puli is quite adaptable, they do however long for human leadership and companionship. A Puli left alone for long hours should be given ample exercise, attention, direction and social interaction before and after being left alone. 9. How much grooming is required? 0-8 months - minimal 9-16 months - high - this is the transition stage where the cords are forming. They require weekly separating of cords and debris removal 16 months + - medium to high. If the Puli is to be maintained in cords he will require regular separating and debris removal. The highest maintenance is during bathing and drying. The Puli coat can take 2 days to dry naturally, reduced to 2 hours with a high powered dryer. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Depends on the individual personality of the dog. Some are more energetic and boisterous than others. This is something I would be discussing with the breeder of your puppy. The breeder should be able to match the personality of the dog with the needs of his new family. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? A good breeder will screen sire and dam for Hip Dysplasia. The breed average is around 13-14. Parents of a litter should also hold a current clear eye certificate. Luxating patella is a lesser problem in the breed but can surface from time to time 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Ask to see the parents hip scores. The breed average is around 13-14. Sire and dam should have a current clear eye certificate. Puppy socialisation is very important in the Puli. If you notice overly shy or wary puppies in a litter, I would be steering clear. The Puli's tail should curl over it's back with confidence. Recovery from loud noises or other adverse stimuli should be quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvus Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 How much time a week would you spend separating cords in an adult dog? Are there tools you would use to remove debris, or is it all done by hand? I've seen pictures of these guys with cords flying and they are spectacular! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulilover Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 How much time a week would you spend separating cords in an adult dog? Are there tools you would use to remove debris, or is it all done by hand?I've seen pictures of these guys with cords flying and they are spectacular! Grooming time will depend on how dirty your dog gets. Separating fully formed adult cords needn't be done weekly. It can be done around once every 3-4 weeks if you own a pet. This will also vary depending on the thickness of the coat and how fast it grows. It usually takes around one hour to remove debris and separate the cords. Most grass and leaves fall off the coat by itself but if grass seeds or burrs are left in the coat they can become a problem and embed into the cords or skin. Show dogs are separated and bathed before each show. It is all done by hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvus Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Thanks Pulilover. How often do you need to bath them? Do they shed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becks Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 What eye problems are the screened for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulilover Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 What eye problems are the screened for? The only condition I have heard of first hand in Pulis is Retinal Dysplasia. I am not sure what the incidence of other diseases is. The veterinary opthalmologists I see always say the eyes have to be checked annually so I assume some of the progressive diseases might also be an issue. I might ask on another forum and see what answers I get and get back to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulilover Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Thanks Pulilover.How often do you need to bath them? Do they shed? Again, it depends how dirty the puli gets and what conditions they live in. A pet puli in an average suburban yard can be bathed every one to two months. Sometimes they don't need a full bath, just a face bum and feet wash keeps them fresh. A Puli raised on property with lots of exposure to dirt will need washing more frequently. The Puli does not shed in the same way as other breeds. The woolly felt undercoat sheds and intertwines with the guard hairs and this forms the cords. The guard hairs themselves do not shed. Most people with allergies are not allergic to the Puli. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becks Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 What eye problems are the screened for? The only condition I have heard of first hand in Pulis is Retinal Dysplasia. I am not sure what the incidence of other diseases is. The veterinary opthalmologists I see always say the eyes have to be checked annually so I assume some of the progressive diseases might also be an issue. I might ask on another forum and see what answers I get and get back to you. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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