Troy Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 The American Cocker Spanel ANKC Standard(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=78 ) Group: Group 3 (Gundogs) General Appearance: The Cocker Spaniel (American) is the smallest member of the Gundog Group. He has a sturdy, compact body and a cleanly chiselled and refined head, with the overall dog in complete balance and of ideal size. He stands well up at the shoulder on straight forelegs with a topline sloping slightly towards strong, moderately bent, muscular quarters. He is a dog capable of considerable speed, combined with great endurance. Above all, he must be free and merry, sound, well balanced throughout and in action show a keen inclination to work. A dog well balanced in all parts is more desirable than a dog with strongly contrasting good points and faults. Characteristics: (Not detailed under this heading.) Temperament: Equable in temperament with no suggestion of timidity. Head And Skull: To attain a well proportioned head, which must be in balance with the rest of the dog, it embodies the following: Expression: The expression is intelligent, alert, soft and appealing. Skull: Rounded but not exaggerated with no tendency toward flatness; the eyebrows are clearly defined with a pronounced stop. The bony structure beneath the eyes is well chiselled with no prominence in the cheeks. The muzzle is broad and deep, with square even jaws. To be in correct balance, the distance from the stop to the tip of the nose is one half the distance from the stop up over the crown to the base of the skull. Nose: Of sufficient size to balance the muzzle and foreface, with well developed nostrils typical of a sporting dog. It is black in colour in the blacks, black and tans, and black and whites; in other colours it may be brown, liver or black, the darker the better. The colour of nose harmonises with the colour of the eye rim. Lips: The upper lip is full and of sufficient depth to cover the lower jaw. Eyes: Eyeballs are round and full and look directly forward. The shape of the eye rims gives a slightly almond shaped appearance; the eye is not weak or goggled. The colour of the iris is dark brown and in general the darker the better. Ears: Lobular, long, of fine leather, well feathered and placed no higher than a line to the lower part of the eye. Mouth: Teeth: Strong and sound, not too small and meet in a scissor bite. Neck: The neck is sufficiently long to allow the nose to reach the ground easily, muscular and free from pendulous "throatiness". It rises strongly from the shoulders and arches slightly as it tapers to join the head. Forequarters: The shoulders are well laid back forming an angle with the upper arm of approximately 90 degrees which permits the dog to move his forelegs in an easy manner with forward reach. Shoulders are clean-cut and sloping without protrusion and so set that the upper points of the withers are at an angle which permits wide spring of rib. When viewed from the side with the forelegs vertical, the elbow is directly below the highest point of the shoulder blade. Forelegs are parallel, straight, strongly boned and muscular and set close to the body well under the scapulae. The pasterns are short and strong. Dewclaws on forelegs may be removed. Body: Topline: Sloping slightly towards muscular quarters. Body: The chest is deep, its lowest point no higher than the elbows, its front sufficiently wide for adequate heart and lung space, yet not so wide as to interfere with the straightforward movement of the forelegs. Ribs are deep and well sprung. Back is strong and sloping evenly and slightly downward from the shoulders to the set-on of the tail. Hindquarters: Hips are wide and quarters well rounded and muscular. When viewed from behind, the hind legs are parallel when in motion and at rest. The hind legs are strongly boned, and muscled with moderate angulation at the stifle and powerful, clearly defined thighs. The stifle is strong and there is no slippage of it in motion or when standing. The hocks are strong and well let down. Dewclaws on hind legs may be removed. Feet: Feet compact, large, round and firm with horny pads; they turn neither in nor out. Tail: The preferably docked tail is set on and carried on a line with the topline of the back, or slightly higher; never straight up like a Terrier and never so low as to indicate timidity. When the dog is in motion the tail action is merry. Gait/Movement: The Cocker Spaniel (American), though the smallest of the Gundogs, possesses a typical sporting dog gait. Prerequisite to good movement is balance between the front and rear assemblies. He drives with strong, powerful rear quarters and is properly constructed in the shoulders and forelegs so that he can reach forward without restriction in a full stride to counterbalance the driving force from the rear. Above all, his gait is co-ordinated, smooth and effortless. The dog must cover ground with his action; excessive animation should not be mistaken for proper gait. Coat: On the head, short and fine; on the body, medium length, with enough undercoating to give protection. The ears, chest, abdomen and legs are well feathered, but not so excessively as to hide the Cocker Spaniel (American)'s true lines and movement or affect his appearance and function as a moderately coated, sporting dog. The texture is most important. The coat is silky, flat or slightly wavy and of a texture which permits easy care. Excessive coat or curly or cottony textured coat shall be severely penalised. Use of electric clippers on the back is not desirable. Trimming to enhance the dog's true lines should be done to appear as natural as possible. Colour: Colour and Markings: Black Variety: Solid colour black to include black with tan points. The black should be jet; shadings of brown or liver in the coat are not desirable. A small amount of white on the chest and/or throat is allowed; white in any other location shall disqualify. Any Solid Colour Other than Black (ASCOB): Any solid colour other than black, ranging from lightest cream to darkest red, including brown and brown with tan points. The colour shall be of a uniform shade, but lighter colour of the feathering is permissible. A small amount of white on the chest and/or throat is allowed; white in any other location shall disqualify. Parti-Colour Variety: Two or more solid, well broken colours, one of which must be white; black and white, red and white, (the red may range from lightest cream to darkest red), brown and white, and roans, to include any such colour combination with tan points. It is preferable that the tan markings be located in the same pattern as for the tan points in the Black and ASCOB varieties. Roans are classified as parti-colours and may be of any of the usual roaning patterns. Primary colour which is ninety percent (90%) or more shall disqualify. Tan Points: The colour of the tan may be from the lightest cream to the darkest red and is restricted to ten percent (10%) or less of the colour of the specimen; tan markings in excess of that amount shall disqualify. In the case of tan points in the Black or ASCOB varieties, the markings shall be located as follows: 1. A clear tan spot over each eye; 2. On the sides of the muzzle and on the cheeks; 3. On the under sides of the ears; 4. On all the feet and/or legs; 5. Under the tail; 6. On the chest optional; presence or absence shall not be penalised. Tan markings which are not readily visible or which amount only to traces, shall be penalised. Tan on the muzzle which extends upward, over and joins shall also be penalised. The absence of tan markings in the Black or ASCOB varieties in any of the specified locations in any otherwise tan-pointed dog shall disqualify. Sizes: The ideal height at the withers: for an adult dog is 38.1 cms (15 ins) and for an adult bitch, 35.6 cms (14 ins). Height may vary 1.25 cms (&1/2; inch) above or below this ideal. A dog whose height exceeds 39.4 cms (15.5 ins), or a bitch whose height exceeds 36.8 cms (14.5 ins) shall be disqualified. An adult dog whose height is less than 36.8 cms (14.5 ins) and an adult bitch whose height is less than 34.3 cms (13.5 ins) shall be penalised. Height is determined by a line perpendicular to the ground from the top of the shoulder blades, the dog standing naturally with its forelegs and lower hind legs parallel to the line of measurement. Proportions: The measurement from the breast bone to back of thigh is slightly longer than the measurement from the highest point of withers to the ground. The body must be of sufficient length to permit a straight and free stride; the dog never appears long and low. Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog, and on the dog�s ability to perform its traditional work. DISQUALIFICATIONS Height - Males over 39.4 cms (15.5 ins) Females over 36.8 cms (14.5 ins) Colour and Markings: The aforementioned colours are the only acceptable colours or combination of colours. Any other colours or combination of colours to disqualify. Black Variety: White markings except on chest and throat. Any Solid Colour Other than Black: White markings except on chest and throat. Parti-Colour Variety: Primary colour ninety percent (90%) or more Tan Points: 1. Tan markings in excess of ten per cent (10%); 2. Absence of tan markings in Black or ASCOB Varieties in any of the specified locations in an otherwise tan pointed dog. Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. See Photos of the American Cocker Spaniel QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? 3. How common is it in Australia? 4. What is the average lifespan? 5. What is the general temperament/personality? 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? 9. How much grooming is required? 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post). Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed. You do not have to answer all questions Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information. See Photos of the American Cocker Spaniel American Cocker Spaniel Breeders American Cocker Spaniel Puppies For Sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellz Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) I have been a breeder/exhibitor since 1986. I have lost count of how many champions I have owned or handled but it would have to be around the 50 mark. I have bred champions in black, buff and particolour. I also bred Australia's first undocked All Breeds Best Exhibit In Show winning American Cocker Spaniel. 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? The American Cocker Spaniel as a breed first originated in the USA in 1946. However prior to that it traces back to the land and water Spaniels of the United Kingdom waaaaay back to the 1800's. The actual name "Cocker Spaniel" came about because the breed was originally developed, as the smallest breed in the Gundog Group and the smallest Spaniel breed, to retrieve woodcock. 3. How common is it in Australia? Not as common as it used to be. In my opinion, the "heyday" of the breed in Australia was the 90's. There were usually very large breed entries at major shows. Sadly, that isn't the case today. I could probably count on less than two hands the number of reputable and responsible breeders involved in the breed at the present time. 4. What is the average lifespan? 10 - 14 years 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Sweet and loving generally but that will depend upon the socialisation given to them as youngsters. Their temperament can vary considerably from colour to colour and overall they can range from being very laid back to quite highly strung. Some can be difficult to train and a person who likes a "thinking dog" may find them frustrating to work with. It isn't that they are stupid, they just tend to have their own agenda. Many can be persuaded quite nicely with food! 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? Depends upon the individual but I don't think my dogs would survive with anything less than 2 - 3 hours per day of some kind of madness. They enjoy playing games and they are generally quite good at obedience and agility. 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? I would like to say yes, but I believe it would depend a lot upon the individual owner (and dog) and the time they are prepared to put into the dog and therefore what they expect to get from the dog. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? No. They have the attention span of a flea in many cases and need to be constantly supervised or they can get into no end of mischief. 9. How much grooming is required? They are a high maintenance breed if you wish to keep them looking and smelling nice. Ears require regular attention to keep them smelling clean. Regular bathing is essential. Regular brushing is essential due to the long coat. They have a double coat and do shed a lot of hair. This matts easily and can become uncomfortable, unhygenic and unsightly and will create health issues if left unattended. They also require regular clipping and trimming to keep the hair length under control. If you don't intend to do the grooming yourself, you should budget for a complete grooming every 6 - 8 weeks and depending upon your expectations of your groomer, your groomer themselves, your dog's coat and behaviour and how much work you do between grooming sessions, you could be up for anything from $40 - 100 per session. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? That would depend entirely upon the dog. Many are too full-on. Some are total sponges and exist to be lapdogs. I would say that because they are smaller, they can find themselves underfoot a fair bit so this may be a problem for somebody with mobility or sight issues. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Most common are the inherited eye disorders; hereditary cataracts, PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), Entropion, Distichiasis, Cherry Eye. Less common but certainly appearing from time to time are luxating patellas, hip dysplasia, thyroid issues, kidney and liver problems and skin disorders. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) The very minimum a purchaser should expect is that the dogs have at least a clinical eye clearance from a practicing veterinarian. This should clear the dog of the more common of the eye disorders mentioned above. Some parts of Australia do not have regular or easy access to a specialist veterinary opthalmologist unfortunately so whilst it isn't ideal, a vet clearance is better than nothing. It isn't common to xray for hip dysplasia in Australia so whilst some breeders will do it, there are not sufficient numbers scored to get a good idea of a National Breed Average. Equally as important as health testing in my opinion is ensuring that puppies have been reared properly to have good temperament. They should be exposed to grooming, which includes clipping, bathing and drying from a VERY early age. Many will argue but I maintain that they are a breed which should be socialised properly from the beginning. If left at home unsocialised they can become timid and sadly, many that become timid become fear biters or submissive piddlers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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