British Bulldog

[Troy]

The British Bulldog

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=183 )

Group: Group 7 (Non Sporting)

General Appearance: In forming a judgement on any specimen of the breed, the general appearance, which is the first impression the dog makes as a whole on the eye of the judge, should be first considered. Secondly should be noticed its size, shape and make, or rather its proportions in the relation they bear to each other. No point should be so much in excess of the others as to destroy the general symmetry, or make the dog appear deformed, or interfere with its powers of motion, etc. Thirdly its style, carriage, gait, temper and its several points should be considered separately in detail, due allowance being made for the bitch, which is not so grand nor as well developed as the dog.

The general appearance of the Bulldog is that of a smooth-coated, thickset dog, rather low in stature, but broad, powerful and compact. The head strikingly massive and large in proportion to the dog's size. The face extremely short. The muzzle very broad, blunt and inclined upwards. The body short and well knit; the limbs stout and muscular. The hindquarters high and strong but rather lightly made in comparison with its heavily made foreparts. The dog should convey an impression of determination, strength and activity, similar to that suggested by the appearance of a thick-set Ayrshire bull.

Characteristics: (See under General Appearance and Gait/Movement)

Temperament: Should convey an impression of determination.

Head And Skull: The skull should be very large - the larger the better - and in circumference should measure (round in front of the ears) at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front it should appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull, and also very broad and square. The cheeks should be well rounded and extended sideways beyond the eyes. Viewed at the side, the head should appear very high, and very short from its back to the point of the nose. The forehead should be flat, neither prominent nor overhanging the face; the skin upon it and about the head very loose and well wrinkled. The projections of the frontal bones should be very prominent, broad, square and high, causing a deep and wide indentation between the eyes termed the "stop". From the "stop" a furrow both broad and deep should extend up to the middle of the skull, being traceable to the apex. The face, measured from the front of the cheek-bone to the nose, should be as short as possible, and its skin should be deeply and closely wrinkled. The muzzle should be short, broad, turned upwards and very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. The nose should be large, broad and black, and under no circumstances should it be liver coloured or brown; its top should be deeply set back almost between the eyes. The distance from the inner corner of the eye (or from the centre of the stop between the eyes) to the extreme tip of the nose should not exceed the length from the tip of the nose to the edge of the under lip. The nostrils should be large, wide and black, with a well-defined vertical straight line between them. The flews, called the "chop" should be thick, broad, pendant, and very deep, hanging completely over the lower jaw at the sides (not in front). They should join the under lip in front and quite cover the teeth. The jaws should be broad, massive and square, the lower jaw should project considerably in front of the upper and turn up. Viewed from the front, the various properties of the face must be equally balanced on either side of an imaginary line down the centre of the face.

Eyes: The eyes seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible. The eyes and "stop" should be in the same straight line, which should be at right angles to the furrow. They should be as wide apart as possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the cheeks. They should be quite round in shape, of moderate size, neither sunken nor prominent, and in colour should be very dark - almost, if not quite, black - showing no white when looking directly forward.

Ears: The ears should be set high on the head - i.e. the front inner edge of each ear should (as viewed from the front) join the outline of the skull at the top corner of such outline, so as to place them as wide apart, and as high and as far from the eyes as possible. In size, they should be small and thin, the shape termed "rose ear" is correct, and folds inwards at its back, the upper or front edge curving over outwards and backwards, showing part of the inside of the burr.

Mouth: The jaw should be broad and square and have the six small front teeth between the canines in an even row. The canine teeth or tusks wide apart. The teeth should not be seen when the mouth is closed. The teeth should be large and strong. When viewed from the front, the underjaw should be centrally under the upper jaw to which it should also be parallel.

Neck: Should be moderate in length (rather short than long), very thick, deep and strong. It should be well arched at the back, with much loose, thick and wrinkled skin about the throat, forming a dewlap on each side, from the lower jaw to the chest.

Forequarters: The shoulders should be broad, sloping and deep, very powerful and muscular, and giving the appearance of having been "tacked on" to the body. The brisket should be capacious, round and very deep from the top of the shoulders to the lowest part where it joins the chest, and be well let down between forelegs. It should be large in diameter and round behind the forelegs (not flat-sided, the ribs being well rounded). The forelegs should be very stout and strong, set wide apart, thick, muscular and straight, with well-developed forearms, presenting a rather bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should be large and straight, not bandy or curved. They should be rather short in proportion to the hind-legs, but not so short as to make the back appear long, or detract from the dog's activity, and so cripple him. The elbows should be low, and stand well away from the ribs. The pasterns should be short, straight and strong.

Body: The chest should be very wide, laterally round, prominent, and deep, making the dog appear very broad and short-legged in front. The body should be well ribbed up behind, with the belly tucked up and not pendulous. The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulders, and comparatively narrow at the loins. There should be a slight fall to the back close behind the shoulders (its lowest part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch - a distinctive characteristic of the breed - termed "roach back".

Hindquarters: The legs should be large and muscular, and longer in proportion than the forelegs, so as to elevate the loins. The hocks should be slightly bent and well let down, so as to be long and muscular from the loins to the point of the hock. The lower part of the leg should be short, straight and strong. The stifles should be round and turned slightly outwards away from the body. The hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to turn outwards.

Feet: The hind feet, like the forefeet, should be round and compact, with the toes well split up and the knuckles prominent. The forefeet should be straight and turn very slightly outward, of medium size and moderately round. The toes compact and thick, being well split up, making the knuckles prominent and high.

Tail: The tail, termed the "stern", should be set on low, jut out rather straight, then turn downwards. It should be round, smooth and devoid of fringe or coarse hair. It should be moderate in length - rather short than long - thick at the root, and tapering quickly to a fine point. It should have a downward carriage (not having a decided curve at the end), and the dog should not be able to raise it over its back.

Gait/Movement: From its formation the dog has a peculiar heavy and constrained gait, appearing to walk with short, quick steps on the tips of its toes, its hindfeet not being lifted high, but appearing to skim the ground, and running with the right shoulder rather advanced, similar to the manner of horse in cantering.

Coat: Should be fine in texture, short, close and smooth (hard only from the shortness and closeness, not wiry).

Colour: The colour should be whole or smut (that is, a whole colour with a black mask or muzzle). The only colours (which should be brilliant and pure of their sort) are whole colours - viz., brindles, reds, with their varieties, fawns, fallows etc., white and also pied (i.e. a combination of white with any other of the foregoing colours). Dudley, black and black with tan are extremely undesirable colours.

Sizes: The most desirable weight for the Bulldog is:

Dogs: 25 kgs (55 lbs)

Bitches: 23 kgs (50 lbs)

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

See Photos of the British Bulldog

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

• Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  
• You do not have to answer all questions
  
• Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.
  

See Photos of the British Bulldog

British Bulldog Breeders

British Bulldog Puppies For Sale

[Bullbreedlover]

Yahhhhhhh

The Bulldog dog breeds thread is alive.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

My family and I have owned, bred and shown Bulldogs(and still own them) for very nearly 30 years.

They are our heart breed and my first of three heart breeds We live, breathe and love everything Bulldogs.

Bulldogs are our passion. I am also a Non sporting championship judge.

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

The breed was developed in Britain. The origin of the Bulldog is often given over to speculation and authorities often differ in their views. It is an undisputed fact that Bulldog are a very old breed. It is thought that the origins of the breed existed in the 1500's and that the Bulldog and the Mastiff had a common ancestor in the 'alaunt" a long extinct breed whose name had a great variety of spellings but in whose description three characteristics of the Bulldog of today are well defined....size, shape of head, courage and tenacity.

The main purpose of the breeds’ development was for the baiting of bulls and also bears.

This “sport” was enjoyed by all classes of people from kings to ordinary citizens. In time the bulldog gradually became associated with being owned by the lowest in the social class and was viewed as being more and more of a savage brute. With the abolition of Bull baiting and dog fighting the bulldog breed wavered on the brink of extinction.

In 1859 the advent of dog shows were first held and so an incentive to breed exhibits for the shows increased the popularity of the breed for the betterment of the breed.

3. How common is it in Australia?

The bulldog is a very popular breed in Australia

4. What is the average lifespan?

In my opinion the average lifespan for a Bulldog is certainly 10 years plus.

We have had dogs live until 12 and a half years old.

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

The Bulldog is a docile breed but can also be easily aroused into a protective state if necessary. The must be treated with respect. They are a powerful low stature dog

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

We never street walked our bulldogs until they were over 12 months old. Before then it was yard exercise with ring training. You must restrict jumping up and down as the Bulldog limbs should be allowed to fully develop.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If the first time owner was well versed in the Bulldog needs then yes they most certainly are fine with first time owners. BUT every breeder must make the owner fully aware about owning a brachy breed and there are important does and don’ts.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Bulldogs strive for human companionship. I do not recommend that this breed is left for long periods of time unless crated or at least made sure they are in a safe place.

9. How much grooming is required?

Twice weekly brush, more often when moulting.

They may require their folds of skin to be cleaned and inspected for signs of wetness or bacteria growth.

If the bulldog does have a tight screw tai then this will need to be cleaned on a regular basis.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

The Bulldog can be quite a boisterous dog but usually is quite content to relax with people who love it.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

Yes there are common hereditary problems that can occur in the Bulldog.

Stenotic nares, Elongated soft palate. Eye problems. Hemi vertebrae, luxating patella’s

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

We have never hip scored our Bulldogs but we have x rayed for our own purposes to examine the hips on our bulldogs. There are other tests that can be done as far as trachea size goes.

With the make up of the bulldog the hip structure is such that you will not get a 0/0 score of the bulldog hips. His hips should be sound and free moving though.

[Bouledogue Français]

I have a few questions:

Ears, is it common practice to glue pups ears if they are not rose or do breeders only keep pups with the correct rose ear?

My guess is it would be best to grow them slow, so is it best to keep puppies on the leaner side while they are growing?

From what I have seen there appear to be 2 different types of nose roll, one that is broken and the other that goes over the nose, is one more correct than the other or is it personal preference?

[Bullbreedlover]

I have been preparing this article below to put on the thread.

I dont have the author but the article is old. It is one that I used for the Bulldog supplement back in NZ.

My personal preference is for a complete nose roll. To me it gives a good appearance to the head, but each one is correct so long as the various attributes are there.

We do not raise our puppies too lean but we do not put too much weight on them either. Finding a middle balance I think is important and having a puppy with good covering as they mature is essential.

Ears can be a hard one to gauge. We dont touch them until the puppy is well into teething. If they are all over the place, then they do get glued.

I have seen many Bulldogs with button ears due to the breeder not taking notice of the puppys ears and or either not knowing how to glue properly.

It is not hard to do once you have been shown.

The Bulldog head

The Bulldog head plays a big part in the correct expression - in fact the original points system allocates 45% or as much as for the whole body. Every part of the head is an important feature in the overall makeup.

One common misunderstanding about the description arises from the failure to appreciate the distinction between the skull and the head. These words are far from synonymous. A dog can have a good shaped skull, but still have a poor head. Just as a room in a house can be good, as a room, but be made hideous by bad furnishings.

The head is composed of the boney structure - the skull, furnished with covering and also with eyes, ears, nose and nostrils, mouth and upper and lower jaws. We are told the skull should be brick shaped. Since the last century the size and shape of bricks have obviously changed, so the depth of the skull would have to be deeper that the proportions of the normal brick as we know it today. Brick-shaped suggests that the skull formation should be long, flat and almost non tapering as it comes forward from the eyes. Of course the actual bone structure does taper, but this tapering should be nearly made up by the fleshy covering. I emphasize “nearly made up” because few heads fail to taper slightly as they reach the muzzle. I am not convinced that this is undesirable but once again emphasize the very important word “slightly”.

The ears are set on the top corners of the “brick”. They should be set as to one third on the top corner and as to two thirds on the “down” edges. They should be reasonably small and of thin texture and normally carried thrown back showing the burr of the ear when viewed in profile, so forming the correctly termed “rose” ear. Whilst they should be small rather than large, they can be too small. However the fault of excessive smallness is a rarity in comparison to being too large; proportion is the yard stick. A very serious fault is the button ear, when the ears fall over the skull like those of a boxer. Another fault is the tulip or pricked ear, when they are carried too high or almost erect.

Between the ears the head should appear very flat or only extremely slightly rounded. If you run your fingers across the skull between the ears, you should find a very slight groove in the centre, proceeding towards the eyes and deepening as it goes towards the commencement of the furrow. This cleft is the boney structure of the skull and should be easily traceable forwards increasing in depth until it reaches the stop.

The skin and fleshy covering of the skull forming the brow, should be neither skin tight nor very loose. It should be covered by fine wrinkle which should be clearly defined, but by no means like coils of rope. Never should the Bulldog wrinkles on the skull be like those of a Bloodhound.

The irises of the eyes should be dark, although in a white or light fawn dog these are often forgiven for being a shade lighter. The standard suggests that the eyes should be black or nearly so. I have seen jet black eyes on occasions and have seen the unfortunate dog to have little vision or poor sight. I feel the colour should be dark. The wording of the standard is misleading when it asks for round eyes. Of course the eyeball should be round, but the aperture or the opening should never be round as it should be like a rather flattened rhomboid in shape with the eyeball itself being neither sunken nor protruding. As with most short faced dogs Bulldogs have stereoscope vision, unlike other dogs. The eye apertures should be set perfectly horizontally to the effect that an imaginary straight line drawn across the face should cover the four corners of the eyes. If the apertures are higher or lower at the outside corners than the inner ones(in other words slanted) they become a serious fault and mar the dogs expression. The eyes should be set as widely apart as possible within the ambit of the foreface of the skull; eg they must not have the outer corners of the eyes “around the corner” of the skull. The width between the eyes should be more than twice the width of the eye aperture.

The nose should be short(not too short), and the nostrils, which should be very large, open and very black with its face leaning slightly backwards. The actual nose itself should be short to the point that the nostrils should not be situated far forward of the eyes. As the furrow runs forward to the nose, it would become very deep and this part is known as the “stop”. Running over this is a coil of flesh(sometimes two smaller ones combined)- this is sometimes known as the roll. This should proceed horizontally until it reaches the inner corners of the eyes, then descend in a curve both sides of the foreface and become merged into the muzzle. Some rolls do not cross over the nose, but start from either side of it. I feel that the dogs appearance is enhanced by the cushion running over the bridge of the nose- some judges prefer the stop to be free of it.

From the centre of the nostril, a very narrow cleft(the septum line) proceeds downwards and forward to the end of the upper lip. The latter should be convex and not draped curtain-wise, should swell as they approach the sides and form the dogs “chops” or “flews”. The upper jaw, having a definite sweep or upward turn to such an extent that the top lips of the dog should cover the canine teeth in the lower jaw. The muzzle, forward of the eyes, should not taper much, but be nearly as wide as the skull. Ratio 3.5:5 is acceptable to me but 4:5 is better.

It is essential that the under jaw should be parallel to the upper jaw and dead centre beneath it. If this is not the case then the dog is “wry jawed”, which is definite fault, very grave in the eyes of some judges, less serious in the opinions of others, but always disapproved. Personally I penalise a dog very heavily if it is wry jawed or untrue without examination- if it takes a microscopic examination of the mouth to find a slight deviation from exactness, I take much less notice. Occasionally we find a top face which is not evenly balanced- to me a very grave fault, as the dog is wry faced and not symmetrical.

The standard states that the cheeks should be well rounded. One can interpret this in different ways. I take it as being the cheek bones should not be hollowed, but should be well covered.

It is very important to evaluate the various parts of the Bulldog head in relation to each other. To make a really good head, the dog must have two essentials- it must have layback and be up faced. To test the layback, it is necessary to view the head in profile. The tip of the under lip, the tip of the nose and the forehead should all appear in one straight line, which when the head is carried normally, should be at an angle of between 30 and 45 degrees to the ground.

To assess placidness in a Bulldog, the head must be examined full face, again when it is in a normal position. The tip of the nose should approximately just touch an imaginary line drawn across the centre of the eyes. If the nose is much lower than this, it tends to give a “snouty” or Boxer like appearance; a dog can have a good layback and yet be down faced which will ruin its expression.

The correct head should have considerable length, and the squashed back face is required. There should be good length from ear to eye, but there should also be the same length from the outer corner of the eye to the tip of the under lip. Also the face should be thick through; eg from the stop vertically downwards to the throat below should not be shallow, but very deep. Many dogs with a sweep of under jaw are either too short in front of the eyes, or else have little depth through the face, making them shallow in this department.

With all the virtues combined, together with a stance that makes the dog look as though he stands fore square, he should have the required “sour” expression. Over the years “sour” has been used for the want of a better word to describe the Bulldog, which must be confident, truculent( not aggressive or ferocious), standoffish, in other words, an aloof type of look.

All of these belie the kind, warm, affectionate temperament of the Bulldog.

[Bouledogue Français]

Good article.

Is there a breed score for hips at all?

What is the ratio in an average litter for button/rose ears?

[Bullbreedlover]

Good article.

Is there a breed score for hips at all?

What is the ratio in an average litter for button/rose ears?

I couldnt tell you the answer to hip scores in Aus.

As far as I know there are only a few that have been hip scored in NZ but the results are not posted on the vet website until the next year i think.(Could be corrected though)

We have only xrayed not scored.

In my opinion there should be no excuse in any litter for button ears if the breeder knows what they are doing.

[Bouledogue Français]

So the reason for glueing the ears.......... If they are not button then why glue?

Is it like how the Bullmastiff ears can go off as pups and are taped?

[Bullbreedlover]

So the reason for glueing the ears.......... If they are not button then why glue?

Is it like how the Bullmastiff ears can go off as pups and are taped?

Most ears we have glued and only while they are teething, which is to ensure that the cartledge remains as a rose ear.

Because they can be all over the place we like to ensure that they stay rose.

From what I can remember I think there were some ears we didnt glue as they stayed rose throughout teething.

Yes and Bullmastiffs are the opposite.

You tape for a button ear. No rose.

[Skye2]

Hi Stonebridge

thanks for all the information. Yes I was wondering about health testing as well. Namely hip scoring. I have done a bit of reading on hip scoring. I believe bulldogs have the highest hip scores of all breeds somewhere around 46 according to the AVA website. In saying that there are not a lot of bulldogs that have been hip scored so the statistics won't give a good breed average. Not a lot is ever said about bulldog hips but I am led to believe that they on average are not great. Maybe this is why not a lot of people hip score. I was told by a vet that most bulldogs have a degree of hip dysplasia some obviously worse than others. I would be interested as to what breeders say about xray results although it might be that not a lot of people like to talk about it even though we know that bulldogs have very unusual bone structure.

I would be interested to hear opinions of breeders that do hip score to understand a little more about this process and what would you consider a good result that you would to have for breeding stock of course taking into consideration all other aspects of the dog.

[Bluefairy]

Hi,

I am very interested in getting either a British Bulldog or a French Bulldog. I love the bulldog breeds and have owned 2 Aussie Bulldogs, but both had to be PTS due to cancer, one in 2008 at 8yrs and my newest pup last week at 11 months.

I have done heaps of research into both breeds, but this has led to questions I hope you can answer for me about the British Bulldog. I read that there are numerous health problems associated with this breed, and I am worried if I get a pup I might end up with huge vet bills.....so my questions are:

Do all pups come with one or more health problems?

Is it true Pet Insurance won't cover a British Bulldog?

Are the health problems obvious before they go to their new homes?

Or can they appear later in life?

Can anyone recommend a good breeder to me?

Does your Bulldog have problems?

I know about the breathing problems and thats Ok, its just I don't want to get another dog that is going to cost me thousands of dollars like my last 2 dogs. I don't mind minor problems either, I just want to be prepared and know what I might end up getting into.

I have seen heaps of TV shows, read Bulldog owners descriptions of their dogs, but nothing gets mentioned about these health problems....one owner says that Bulldogs are collectible But when I read in magazines etc they make the health problems out to be catastrophic and of major concern.....but I keep thinking if it was as bad as they say it is, why on earth are people still buying these dogs??????

I hope you can help me?

Lynn

[perth_girl]

Bumping.

Interested in as much Bulldog info as possible.

[luffy4688]

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If the first time owner was well versed in the Bulldog needs then yes they most certainly are fine with first time owners. BUT every breeder must make the owner fully aware about owning a brachy breed and there are important does and don’ts.

What are some of the do's and don'ts for a brachy breed like the British Bulldog that you don't get in other dogs?

[Bullbreedlover]

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If the first time owner was well versed in the Bulldog needs then yes they most certainly are fine with first time owners. BUT every breeder must make the owner fully aware about owning a brachy breed and there are important does and don’ts.

What are some of the do's and don'ts for a brachy breed like the British Bulldog that you don't get in other dogs?

Dont ever say that you are going to own just one

Because once you own one then you will want to love another.

On my way to work shortly. Will have time this evening to post a few bits and pieces but if anyone else would like to contibute in the meantime.....

[luffy4688]

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If the first time owner was well versed in the Bulldog needs then yes they most certainly are fine with first time owners. BUT every breeder must make the owner fully aware about owning a brachy breed and there are important does and don’ts.

What are some of the do's and don'ts for a brachy breed like the British Bulldog that you don't get in other dogs?

Dont ever say that you are going to own just one

Because once you own one then you will want to love another.

On my way to work shortly. Will have time this evening to post a few bits and pieces but if anyone else would like to contibute in the meantime.....

Haha. Love the brachy breeds! It's pretty expensive so I'm saving up at the moment. It's a long term plan but I thought it's never too early to start finding out more. Looking forward to hear from you.

[Luvmy4]

My grandma in law has owned 2 over the yrs and is thinking about number 3 what is the ave price on a ltd reg pet as it would be desexed and spoilt as it would be her only pet. She even likes the idea of taking on an older dog

Edited May 23, 2010 by Luvmy4

[aj2251]

British bulldogs are not cheap to purchase, even as mature dogs, you are looking at over $2500 for a full bred British on limited registration, and that would probably be considered cheap! Do not get caught by an ad that says they are selling a bullie because they are moving overseas and the sister has the dog and they will send it tomorrow if you transfer them money! It was only an email contact and the English was very broken and they were only asking a grand! I smelled a rat and when I asked around apparently it is a relatively common scam.

It is true, once you have one, you will want another!!! They are sooooooo endearing and full of personality. Even though they can be a bit high maintenance, many health issues, and they NEED their little rolls cleaned every day or so, they are so worth it. But be warned, they are not necessarily the couch potato they have a reputation for. I was led, by my partner who has had a couple of bulldogs before, that our little guy, Wendell, would happily sit back and wave me and our other dog Zoe go for our walk, NOPE! He loves his walks and gets just as antsy as Zoe (rottie) when we've had a few days of rain and no walks. He is a bit of a jumper too, still training him out of that. And don't believe it if someone says they are not really trainable, they totally are! Mainly because they are highly food motivated, but it still takes some time, they are stubborn, but the patience and persistence pays off

I would hate to think of a bullie being in a single dog home if the human isn't there majority of the time. This is a breed that loves company and will look over your shoulder (more like rest that heavy head on your shoulder) wherever you go.

They also have a very amusing body language, it is not hard to tell when they are excited, happy, sad, upset with you or any other emotion. Our little boy despises having his post beach wash down (to the point where he refuses to get out of the car) and one particular Vet (the one that squeezed his anal glands) to the point he even refuses treats, you can try and shove one in, but it just sits there on his lip.

They are a charismatic breed and get lots of attention (which they love) where ever they go

Edited May 30, 2010 by aj2251

[emilee]

British bulldogs are not cheap to purchase, even as mature dogs, you are looking at over $2500 for a full bred British on Check out these breeders www.bullacre.com I would love to get my next one from here!

Can you tell me why you recommed this breeder?

There is so much more to choosing your next breeder than a flashy website and claims of multiple imports, remember no matter what country the dog comes from the possiblility of inherant problems still exists. I suggest to anyone that is buying a bulldog to take their time - join your local bulldog club, go to shows and meet as many breeders and their bulldogs as possible. Never just buy off the net on someones say so,and where possible make sure you meet the litter, dam and other dogs bred by the breeder before you make your final decision.

Edited May 30, 2010 by emilee

[bullyfan]

Maybe I'm one of few lucky bulldog owners, but my dogs only go to the vets for vaccinations.

I have had one grass seed removed from the cheek of one of my boys but other than that, I've not needed to take my him to the vets.

I'm certain I'm not alone there, it seems too many people are willing to harp on about the negatives and no one really promotes the positives.....

[lanabanana]

I have a question about british bulldogs.....my partner and I have wanted to own one for years. W eused to live in NZ and over there they are the mascot for one of the gangs which means they get stolen a lot so this made us a bit wary, but did not put us off.

A year ago we moved to Australia and we would like our next dog to be a BB but I am concerned with how well they are able to handle the heat in summer? And also, if we decided to go back to NZ ever, or possible to England (my partner is English) can they fly OK - we would never leave a dog behind (and in fact brang our two mutts from NZ to AUs) so if we were to get a BB and they were unable to fly due to whatever reason they are unable to fly for, we would not move overseas.

Any advice - greatly appreciated.

[Wendy^Clear]

I know the post above is a bit old but I thought I'd put my two cents in.

I'm a kiwi who has recently moved to Perth from Auckland. I brought my (now) 5 year old boy with me and so far he has coped fine with the heat. He spent around 12 hours all up in his crate on the way over and he didn't go to the toilet once! I brought him over in April so he could get used to the climate before summer set in. I got him one of those seashell paddling pools and I fill it about ankle deep with water and throw a block of ice in the middle and he just loves it!

Just make sure if you do fly with them, fly in winter. I've heard of a dog overheating in it's crate when it was left on the Tarmac at an eastern states airport recently.