Hungarian Vizsla

[Troy]

Hungarian Vizsla

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=88 )

Group: Group 3 (Gundogs)

General Appearance: He is a medium sized, elegant gun dog of noble appearance with a short russet gold coat. His rather light, dry, lean structure embodies the harmony of beauty and strength.

Characteristics: The Hungarian Vizsla is a versatile gun dog that must be able to work in field, forest and water and have the following typical qualities. He must have an excellent nose, firmness on the point , be excellent at retrieving and have the determination to remain on the scent even when swimming, which he manifestly enjoys. He copes with difficult terrain as well as extreme weather conditions. As he is intended to be an efficient hunting dog then gun and game shyness, unwillingness to point and retrieve, as well a dislike of water are undesirable. Because of his easy going nature and his adaptability, he can easily be kept as a companion dog in the house.

Temperament: Lively, friendly, evenly tempered and easily trained. His outstanding willingness to keep contact with his master while working is one of his essential qualities. He cannot bear rough treatment and must be neither aggressive or shy.

Head And Skull: The head should be dry, noble and well proportioned. The skull moderately wide and slightly domed. A slightly pronounced groove runs from the moderately developed occiput towards the stop. The supercilliary ridges are moderately developed. The stop is moderate.

His nose should be well developed and broad with nostrils as wide as possible. The colour of the nose harmonises in a dark shading with the coat colour. The muzzle is blunt, not pointed, with strong jaws that are strongly muscled. The bridge of the nose is straight. The lips are tight fitting with no pendulous flews. The jaws are powerful and the cheeks are strong and well muscled.

Eyes: The eyes are slightly oval and of medium size with well fitting eyelids. He has an intelligent and lively expression. The brown eyes harmonise with the coat colour, as dark as possible preferred.

Ears: The ears are set on at medium height, a little backwards. He has fine leathers, which hang closely to the cheeks and end in a rounded V shape. The length is about three-quarters of the length of the head.

Mouth: He has a regular and complete scissor bite with the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws with 42 healthy teeth according to dentition formula.

Neck: Of medium length, harmonising with the overall appearance. The nape very muscular and slightly arched. Tightly fitting skin (no dewlap) at the throat.

Forequarters: Viewed from the front they should be straight and parallel. Viewed from the side the legs are vertical and placed well under the body. Good bones and strongly muscled. The shoulders are long, sloping and flat with well attached shoulder blades. Flexible with strong dry muscles. Well angulated between the shoulder blade and upper arm. The upper arm is as long as possible and well muscled. The elbows fit close to the body, not tied in and turning neither in nor out and are well angulated between the upper arm and forearm. The forearm is long, straight and sufficiently muscled with strong but not coarse bone. The pastern joint is short and tight. The pastern is short and only very slightly sloping.

Body: The withers are pronounced and muscular. The back is solid, strong, well muscled, taut and straight. The muscles should hide the vertebral spines. The loin is short, broad, tight, muscular, straight or slightly arched. The portion from back to loin is well coupled. The croup is broad and of sufficient length, not to cut off short. It slopes slightly to the tail and is well muscled. The chest is deep and broad with a well developed, well muscled, moderately arched forechest. The sternum should extend as far back as possible. The sternum and the elbow should be at the same level. The ribs are moderately arched with the last ribs carried well back. The underline is elegant, tight, arching towards the rear and slightly tucked up.

Hindquarters: Viewed from behind they should be straight and parallel. Well angulated and with strong bone. The upper thigh is long and muscular with good angulation between the pelvis and upper thigh. The stifle is well angulated. The lower thigh is long, well muscled and sinewy. Its length is almost equal to that of the upper thigh. Good angulation between the lower thigh and the metatarsus. The hock joint is strong, dry and sinewy and rather well let down. The metatarsus is vertical, short and dry.

Feet: The forefeet are slightly oval, with well knit, sufficiently arched, strong toes. The nails are strong and brown in colour. He has tough, resistant, slate grey pads. The feet are parallel when standing or moving. The hind feet are similar to the forefeet.

Tail: Set on slightly low, strong at the base, then tapering. In countries where tail docking is not prohibited by law, the tail may be shortened by one quarter to avoid hunting hazards. If tail docking is prohibited, the tail reaches down to the hock joint and carried straight or slightly sabre like. On the move, it is raised up to the horizontal. It is well covered by dense coat.

Gait/Movement: The typical gait is an animated, light-footed trot, elegant and far-reaching, with much drive and corresponding reach. Not exhausting gallop when working in the field. The back is firm and the topline remains level. Good, upright carriage. Pacing undesirable.

Coat: Short and dense, should be coarse and hard at the touch. On the head and the ear leathers, it should be thinner, silkier and shorter. The hair underneath the tail should be slightly, but not noticeably longer. The coat should cover all if the body with the underside of the belly being a little lighter coated. No undercoat.

Colour: Various shades of russet gold and dark sandy gold. The ear leathers may be a little darker, otherwise uniform in colour. Red, brownish or lightened colour is undesirable. A little white patch on the chest or at the throat, not more than 5 cm in diameter, as well as white markings on the toes are not considered faulty. The colour of the lips and the eye rims corresponds to the colour of the nose. The skin is tightly fitting, without folds and well pigmented.

Sizes: Height at withers

Dogs: 58-64 cms

Bitches: 54-60 cms

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS

The body length slightly exceeds the height at withers.

The depth of the brisket is slightly less than half the height at the withers

The muzzle is slightly shorter than half the length of head.

It is ineffective to increase the height at the withers. A medium size should be aimed at. Overall balance and symmetry are much more important than the mere measurable size.

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog, and on the dog�s ability to perform its traditional work.

DISQUALIFYING FAULTS

Distinct deviations from the characteristics of the breed

Strong deviation from the sexual characteristics

Atypical head

Spotted (butterfly) nose

Pendulous or dribbling flews

Under or overshot mouth. Wry mouth, including all intermediate forms

One or more missing incisors and/or canine and or premolars 2-4 and /or molars 1-2. More than two missing PM1. The M3 are disregarded. Not visible teeth are assessed as missing ones. Supernumerary teeth not in line with the others.

Cleft palate, harelip

Light yellow eyes. Very loose eyelids. Ectropian. Entropion. Distichiasis (double row of eyelashes)

Pronounced dewlap

Dewclaws

Very faulty movement

Atypical coat

Dark brown or pale yellow colour. Parti-coloured. Not uniformly coloured. White chest patch larger than 5 cm.

White feet

Lacking pigmentation either on the skin or on the lips and eye rims.

Any type of weakness in temperament

Deviation of more than 2 cm from the above mentioned heights at withers

Notes: Male animals must have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

See Photos of the Hungarian Vizsla

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

• Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  
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• Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.
  

See Photos of the Hungarian Vizsla

Hungarian Vizsla Breeders

Hungarian Vizsla Puppies For Sale

[FHRP]

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Owner and exhibitor for 11 years.

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

As with almost every breed there are a few theories on the origins of the Hungarian Vizsla. This link gives a comprehensive 'History Of The Vizsla' http://www.vizsla.org.uk/history.htm

3. How common is it in Australia?

Although they aren't a 'common' breed, there are quite a few around. In 2008 there were 326 Vizslas registered in Australia (522 in 2007, a 'bumper' year!). They were the 6th most popular gundog registered. When I got my first Vizsla in 1998 I had only seen a couple of others and nearly know one knew his breed. We now have quite a few training at my local club and many people are now familiar with the breed.

4. What is the average lifespan?

I believe that a recent article in the Hungarian Vizsla Club of NSW's Newsletter determined that the average lifespan of the Vizsla in Australia is 10-12 years. Barring acceidental early death I'd like to think 12 -14

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

As the breed standard says "Lively, friendly, evenly tempered and easily trained." :D Vizslas are high energy, outgoing dogs who shouldn't show shyness or aggression. Although I know some fanciers don't like the descirption of "needy" I find it fitting. They need to be with their family, they need to be included, they need physical contact etc.

They are a highly trainable breed that are capable of trialing at the top levels of dogs sports. They can be vocal, enjoying a bit of a chat at times

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

Vizslas are high energy dogs that need daily exercise. An hour a day minimum off lead is a good idea, however training, playing, jogging, biking etc. are also good outlets for the breed. I have one Vizsla who demands daily walks/runs and another who can go a couple of days with just playing with me and my other dogs and running around the yard before driving me crazy

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If they are prepared for a high energy puppy that will need training and mental and physical stimulation daily, then yes a first time dog owner can cope. Not sure about easily though

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Given sufficient exercise and time with his people, a Vizsla can cope with being left alone during the day. If he is not exercised and is left to his own devices he will occupy himself in the usual undersiarable ways - digging, chewing, barking, escaping.

9. How much grooming is required?

Very little. The short coat requires little attention, bathing when dirty and brushing occasionally to remove dead hair. The nails need regualr clipping and like all drop ears dogs they must be regularly checked and cleaned when needed.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

An untrained, uncontrolled Vizsla certainly has the potential to overwelm and knock over small children and the infirm. However they are highly trainable and can be taught to behave in such situations.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

Parents of pups should be hip and elbow scored. Average hip score in the breed is 11-12 and I'd like parents to be below average. There are others in the breed who can answer hereditary problems etc. better than me. The HVCNSW is currently conducting a health survey.

My advice to puppy buyers is to go and meet the breed and take note of the breeding of dogs you particularly like and see if you can contact the breeder. And remeber that the right pup is worth waiting for!

My boys

Edited October 5, 2009 by FHRP

[Abbiestar]

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Owner/breeder/exhibitor of Hungarian Vizslas since 1993. Have bred Vizslas exclusively and have sent puppies and dogs to homes in all Australian States and Territories, the USA, Canada, New Zealand, Japan and Hong Kong. Have imported from the USA and Canada.

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

The breed's origins can be traced back as far as the 1400's where it was a hunting dog bred and used exclusively by the Hungarian nobility.

3. How common is it in Australia?

Growing in identity and popularity very quickly.

4. What is the average lifespan?

12-15 years

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Outstanding. The perfect family companion and working dog.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

They are an active breed, both physically and mentally. Added they have a definite need for companionship. They are demanding of time and activity and a good balance is required. A good long walk and a run at the park or beach daily would be ideal.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

Yes and No. It is important to speak to breeders about this breed and it's demands, personality, energy and requirements. This breed is not for everyone.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Not always. Very active, both mentally and physically. Best suited to a home where there is some companionship during the day to break the dog's boredom.

9. How much grooming is required?

Surprisingly, very little. A good brushing 2-3 times a week is recommended. They do not need regular baths and are generally a very clean breed.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

All breeds of dog need training and if trained well will be perfect around children, the aged and infirm.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

It is important to note that the ailments affecting vizslas are no more prevalent in vizslas than in other breeds of dogs.

Hip dysplasia, Epilepsy/seizure are examples of some of these.

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

Most importantly, "Can I buy this dog without a contract or breeder's terms?" If the answer is "No", find another breeder that says "Yes".

Contracts and breeders terms in my opinion are recipes for acrimony and dispute.

Health tests are important. As a minimum, ask about hip scores on breeding parents.

The current breed average score for Vizslas is 11.97 under the AVA system. A good score is one that is LESS than 11.97. Thelower the score, the better the result. With the PennHip scoring system, 90th percentile and above can be considered excellent.