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The Bullmastiff

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=164 )

Group: Group 6 (Utility)

General Appearance: Powerful build, symmetrical, showing great strength, but not cumbersome; sound and active.

Characteristics: Powerful, enduring, active and reliable.

Temperament: High spirited, alert and faithful.

Head And Skull: Skull large and square, viewed from every angle, fair wrinkle when interested, but not when in repose. Skull broad and deep with well filled cheeks. Pronounced stop. Muzzle short, distance from tip of nose to stop approximately one-third of length from tip of nose to centre of occiput, broad under eyes and sustaining nearly the same width to end of nose; blunt and cut off square, forming right angle with upper line of face, and at the same time proportionate with skull. Under-jaw broad to end. Nose broad with widely spreading nostrils, flat, neither pointed nor turned up in profile. Flews not pendulous, never hanging below level of lower jaw.

Eyes: Dark or hazel, of medium size, set apart the width of muzzle with furrow between. Light or yellow eyes highly undesirable.

Ears: V-shaped, folded back, set on wide and high, level of occiput giving square appearance to skull which is most important. Small and deeper in colour than body. Point of ear level with eye when alert. Rose ears highly undesirable.

Mouth: Level desired but slightly undershot allowed but not preferred. Canine teeth large and set wide apart, other teeth strong, even and well placed.

Neck: Well arched, moderate length, very muscular and almost equal to skull in circumference.

Forequarters: Chest, wide and deep, well let down between forelegs, with deep brisket. Shoulders muscular, sloping and powerful, not overloaded. Forelegs powerful and straight, well boned, set wide apart, presenting a straight front. Pasterns straight and strong.

Body: Back short and straight, giving compact carriage, but not so short as to interfere with activity. Roach and sway backs highly undesirable.

Hindquarters: Loins wide and muscular with fair depth of flank. Hindlegs strong and muscular, with well developed second thighs, denoting power and activity, not cumbersome. Hocks moderately bent. Cow hocks highly undesirable.

Feet: Well arched, cat like, with rounded toes, pads hard. Dark toe nails desirable. Splayed feet highly undesirable.

Tail: Set high, strong at root and tapering, reaching to hocks, carried straight or curved, but not hound fashion. Crank tails highly undesirable.

Gait/Movement: Movement indicates power and sense of purpose. When moving straight neither front nor hind legs should cross or plait, right front and left rear leg rising and falling at same time. A firm backline unimpaired by powerful thrust from hindlegs denoting a balanced and harmonious movement.

Coat: Short and hard, weather resistant, lying flat to body. Long, silky or woolly coats highly undesirable.

Colour: Any shade of brindle, fawn or red; colour to be pure and clear. A slight white marking on chest permissible. Other white markings undesirable. Black muzzle essential, toning off towards eyes, with dark markings around eyes contributing to expression.

Sizes: Height:

Dogs 64-69 cms (25-27 ins) at shoulder

Bitches 61-66 cms (24-26 ins) at shoulder

Weight: Dogs 50-59 kg (110-130 lbs)

Bitches 41-50 kg (90-110 lbs)

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

  • Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  • You do not have to answer all questions
  • Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.

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QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

My involvement with the breed started 17 years ago.

I have owned Bullmastiffs since 2004.

The Bullmastiff.

Welcome to the world of Bullmastiffs

Bullmastiffs. The Gamekeepers Dogs.

At the beginning of the 19th Century this beautiful breed of dog was developed to assist the wealthy English Land owners from the increasing threat of poachers.

While it was a necessary need for the common working man to provide for his family the best way he could, the estate owners were only concerned with their stocks of recreational game being depleted and the need for a strong, dependable, loyal dog was developed through the years from breeding the Bulldog with the English Mastiff.

The gamekeepers needed a dog that would display loyalty, stamina, speed and size. One which could be depended upon to bring down and hold a poacher until the Gamekeeper could apprehend the thief. The dog needed to be a quiet worker, whose colour could blend into the night (the preferred colour was brindle for the night dogs). As the breed developed reds and fawns became increasingly popular as well. He needed to be heavy enough to bring a poacher to the ground and hold him but not too heavy that he couldn’t work all night guarding the estate and give chase if required.

The standard for the Bullmastiff was drawn up in 1924 and is regarded today in the show ring as being extremely important in continuing to preserve breed characteristic and type.

While the Bullmastiff of today is of course no longer required to pursue poachers, he is still regarded as a dog who is very loyal and trustworthy, but he must never be misunderstood or mistreated. He can be an impressive dog with great strength and will require a firm but gentle hand in his upbringing. He must never be the pack leader in your household of a human family but should be taught to respect and obey your day to day world and he will reward you with the ability to become an impressive guard dog if required but the Bullmastiffs life is more suited to spending his days in relaxation and being a family companion.

His temperament must be reliable though and this should be an important fact to bear in mind when choosing the Bullmastiff to become your companion for his lifetime.

As they are a large breed dog it must also be realised that they, to a big extent will not have the life span that say, a smaller breed will have. Their growth rate is huge, and they will not mature until they are at least 3 years old, in some cases older. The Bullmastiff can also be susceptible to forms of cancer that may not be so prevalent in smaller breeds. They can also be prone to developing Hip Dysplasyia, though with careful breeding this can to some extent be minimised.

Bullmastiffs. The Family Companions.

If you have decided that the Bullmastiff may be the breed for you, I would recommend spending as much time as possible in reading about the breed, attending Dog Shows and trying to visit as many reputable Kennels as possible. Contact your State Breed Club to ask when the shows are being held. While you may not be wanting a show potential puppy, many Breeders do show their dogs as they strive to improve the breed in type, temperament and quality. The Bullmastiff is a dog that does not do well in an environment in which he will not be treated as part of the family. He strives for human companionship. He is as much at home on his special dog bed in a corner of the lounge. I prefer to have a limited number of dogs with whom we can devote time to, than having a huge kennel of dogs which, while they are socialised with other dogs, may lack the individual attention I feel they deserve.

It is important to bring your dog up in a friendly home situation and that you have thought long and hard about selecting this breed. Many times people have brought a wonderful bundle of joy into their home, only to realise further down the track, that they have not spent the time needed with the puppy to socialise him properly, and they are now faced with a huge adolescent male who is trying to rule the house.

Bullmastiff puppies have a huge cuteness factor that simply can not be ignored. They tug on your heart strings, and will fill your world with a beautiful sense of being loved. To be loved by a Bullmastiff is very special indeed, and you may soon find that one dog is simply not enough. They will entertain you with their antics, will love you unconditionally and be your friend when you need them most. My dogs love to comfort me when I am feeling low or they will share in my happiness with huge enthusiasm.

To the normal everyday person most Bullmastiff puppies will look just as cute as the next one and it may be a very hard to choice to make in deciding which bundle of joy you would like to take home. One of the first decisions you will need to make though is whether you would like a male or female puppy. While this may seem a small matter it can have an impact later on in your life when, if you have chosen a bitch, are you prepared to look after her when she comes into season, ensuring that she does not escape to be accidentally mated? Are you prepared to ensure your male does not escape your property and pursue the "in season" bitch down the road? I would not advise desexing your puppy, especially a large breed, at a very early age as this can result in growth problems later on. Bitches and dogs for that matter need to mature hormonally as well as mentally and while your local vet may insist that it is a good thing to desex at an early age, I personally do not. Bullmastiffs are a large breed dog and they need time to mature. Of course if you do decide to show your Bullmastiff then they must be kept entire as a desexed dog is not eligible to be shown at Championship dog shows.

Socialising and bringing your puppy up correctly within a household is very important. Dogs are pack animals. The must have order and routine for without it they may become aggressive and try to dominate.

I always advocate that the first steps to controlling your puppy is to ensure that you are quiet, confident and in control yourself. You and your family members must be able to control your dog when it is necessary. You must be a pack leader as must the rest of your human family. Feeding and training your puppy should be an enjoyable part of bringing up your dog but it must also be that your puppy learns to respect and obey your commands. While your puppy should of course eat his meals with enthusiasm, he must also learn that if for any reason you need to take his meal away from him, or take something from his mouth he must not be aggressive to what you are doing. I like to ensure that I can, at any stage, take my dogs meals away from them, or take something out of their mouth with confidence. This is a learning process that should be started from a young age and should only be undertaken in controlled situations.

The next big step to take is whether or not you would like to buy a puppy as a Show Potential puppy or a pet. Either way it makes no difference to the dog itself in the fact that he will be loved and treated as part of the family regardless of whether he is a top winner in the ring or a loyal friend at home. With my many years experience of showing and breeding Bulldogs, before being owned by Bullmastiffs, I have found that there will always be breeders who will breed their puppies to fulfill a buyers market. And then there are breeders who have a genuine interest in producing quality healthy puppies, breeding to improve.

I would advise purchasing a puppy from a reputable Breeder. One who will have a carefully planned breeding programme in place.

In my opinion, breeding is all about producing quality, not quantity. As caretakers of the breed we need to place emphasize on breed type, soundness, quality and style.

Type:

Today, the dog which most closely resembles its standard both in disposition and appearance is the most typical of a certain kind of dog developed for a particular purpose.

In looking at the standard of the Bullmastiff you will come to realise that his makeup is crucial to him performing his duties in past years. Factors which should not be overlooked when breeders are making the decision to bring a litter of puppies into the world. Type is what makes a Bullmastiff. It is the standard which best describes a particular breed of dog.

Soundness:

Both these two attributes are equalably important in assessing a dog. Type is of extreme importance but if the dog is not sound then he should not win in the show ring. A dog who is blind in one eye, lame, or one which displays an aggressive temperament or who is deformed is unsound. Soundness is often considered to be in reference to movement only. This is not correct. It should be referred to mean the dogs entire construction as well as his physical and mental well being.

A dog which displays extreme nervousness or aggression when its standard specifically states that it must not, in my opinion is unsound.

But a dog who has an undershot jaw or light eyes is untypical of the breed and this should be considered appropriately according to the standard.

Quality:

The word quality in the dog world refers to a general amalgamation of breed virtues. Type, Soundness, Style and Temperament.

Not one of these virtues is in excess of the other.

Style:

The dictionary defines style as “a matter of conduct or action”. Style comes nearer than any other breed characteristic to “type” and it is of great importance to the show dog.

A dog is either born with it or without it. Presentation of your dog will go along way in accentuating style if a showy dog has it, but a lot of the time with the heavier built breeds it is rather difficult to do. A stylish dog is very noticeable in the ring. He has distinction and will impress spectators with his proud carriage and sell himself to the judge.

Bullmastiffs. In the Show Ring.

Generally, many new people in the breed, who start showing their Bullmastiffs will do so while the puppy is young. In order to exhibit your dog you will need to belong to your States Canine Control Club. These Clubs have a governing body called The Australian National Kennel Club or ANKC.

The breeder of your puppy will be able to assist you in filling out the necessary forms to become a member of your Canine Control.

Or you may just wish to be a member of your States Breed Club and receive their newsletters to keep you in touch with Bullmastiff people near you.

If you do decide to show then mention this to the people you are going to get your puppy from so they can assist you in selecting a possible show potential puppy. I say “show potential”, because I personally would not guarantee that any puppy born is going to be show quality.

Hopefully with careful planning by the breeder there are going to be some nice puppies in the litter than may reach high expectations.

Showing a Bullmastiff can be very rewarding but you do have to have some commitment in attending shows, ring training yourself and your puppy, being conversant with Rules and Regulations, and being prepared to travel to attend shows at times.

Dog shows can be a very good way to meet new friends. Discuss do’s and don’ts in the raising and training of your puppy and generally get a further good insight into the Bullmastiff as a breed. Bear in mind as well, that the Show environment can also be very competitive and things may seem very daunting to the average family.

There are many people out there who have had years of experience in raising and training dogs and there is always a lot of valuable information to be gathered by listening and learning.

In the conformation ring, a judge has been contracted to perform the task of selecting what they think, to be the best examples of the different breeds that are being presented to them on the day.

The Bullmastiff belongs to the Utility Group and a Best Dog and Best Bitch are selected from those entered, to become Best of Breed. The dogs are judged in age classes, from the youngest to the oldest. Those Best of Breeds then compete for Best of Group and have a chance to further compete against the other Best of Group winners for a chance at being awarded Best in Show.

Whether or not you wish to pursue the hobby of showing your dog is a decision that can be made at any stage. But there are some issues that do need to be addressed which involve ensuring that your Bullmastiff is properly lead trained and is not aggressive or shy in meeting new people or other dogs.

Socialisation in any case is an extremely important aspect of bringing up your dog correctly.

I am always in favour of introducing your puppy to pretty much any and everything possible in a safe and controlled environment.

By this I mean, after puppy has completed the necessary vaccination requirements and is becoming used to lead training, and basic obedience commands, it is time to introduce him to the big wide world.

Hopefully your puppy will be a good traveller. If you are planning to go out for the day make sure that puppy does not get fed just before he is going out. Feed him at least 2 hours before hand and if you need to take meals for him, just prepare light meals so his stomach wont be full and upset if he is not going to be a good traveler. Make sure he has his bag of necessary items packed as well. Water is the most essential thing to take. They can survive without food for the day but they are easily susceptible to dehydration if their fluids are not kept up. His collar and lead and also doggy scooper bags for I would like to think that every single person out there with a dog cleans up after them.

If you have doggy parks to go to that is great. Please remember though, the Bullmastiff is a breed that is very head strong and a young or older dog for that matter can be a handful to control when they get excited.

Under no circumstances ever, no matter how well obedience trained your dog becomes, would I ever recommend letting your dog off leash in a public area. That is my opinion, others I am sure would not be phased, but it only takes a second for an uncontrolled dog to become, in the eyes of the general public, an out of control dog.

As the Bullmastiff is a large breed dog, it is very important that they are not exercised to a great extent when they are young. And even as they reach their 1st birthday it does not mean that they are physically mature to go with you on a 5 km run. They are not! Generally as a rule Bullmastiffs do not structurally mature until they are about 3 or even 4 years old. They can go through growth stages that to the novice eye may look very strange, but usually their body parts will all catch up with each other in time. It is all part of being a Bullmastiff.

The Bullmastiff Standard.

General Appearance: Powerful build, symmetrical, showing great strength, but not cumbersome; sound and active.

Characteristics: Powerful, enduring, active and reliable.

Temperament: High spirited, alert and faithful.

Head And Skull: Skull large and square, viewed from every angle, fair wrinkle when interested, but not when in repose. Circumference of skull may equal height of dog measured at top of shoulder; broad and deep with well filled cheeks. Pronounced stop. Muzzle short; distance from tip of nose to stop approximately one third of length from tip of nose to centre of occiput, broad under eyes and sustaining nearly same width to end of nose; blunt and cut off square, forming right angle with upper line of face, and at same time proportionate with skull. Underjaw broad to end. Nose broad with widely spreading nostrils; flat, neither pointed nor turned up in profile. Flews not pendulous, never hanging below level of lower jaw.

Eyes: Dark or hazel, of medium size, set apart the width of muzzle with furrow between. Light or yellow eyes highly undesirable.

Ears: V-shaped, folded back, set on wide and high, level of occiput giving square appearance to skull which is most important. Small and deeper in colour than body. Point of ear level with eye when alert. Rose ears highly undesirable.

Mouth: Level desired but slightly undershot allowed but not preferred. Canine teeth large and set wide apart, other teeth strong, even and well placed.

Neck: Well arched, moderate length, very muscular and almost equal to skull in circumference.

Forequarters: Chest, wide and deep, well let down between forelegs, with deep brisket. Shoulders muscular, sloping and powerful, not overloaded. Forelegs powerful and straight, well boned, set wide apart, presenting a straight front. Pasterns straight and strong.

Body: Back short and straight, giving compact carriage, but not so short as to interfere with activity. Roach and sway backs highly undesirable.

Hindquarters: Loins wide and muscular with fair depth of flank. Hindlegs strong and muscular, with well developed second thighs, denoting power and activity, not cumbersome. Hocks moderately bent. Cow hocks highly undesirable.

Feet: Well arched, cat like, with rounded toes, pads hard. Dark toe nails desirable. Splayed feet highly undesirable.

Tail: Set high, strong at root and tapering, reaching to hocks, carried straight or curved, but not hound fashion. Crank tails highly undesirable.

Gait/Movement: Movement indicates power and sense of purpose. When moving straight neither front nor hind legs should cross or plait, right front and left rear leg rising and falling at same time. A firm backline unimpaired by powerful thrust from hindlegs denoting a balanced and harmonious movement.

Coat: Short and hard, weather resistant, lying flat to body. Long, silky or woolly coats highly undesirable.

Colour: Any shade of brindle, fawn or red; colour to be pure and clear. A slight white marking on chest permissible. Other white markings undesirable. Black muzzle essential, toning off towards eyes, with dark markings around eyes contributing to expression.

Sizes: Height:

Dogs 64-69 cms (25-27 ins) at shoulder

Bitches 61-66 cms (24-26 ins) at shoulder

Weight: Dogs 50-59 kg (110-130 lbs)

Bitches 41-50 kg (90-110 lbs)

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

The Bullmastiff has been bred from a Bulldog/Mastiff mix developed through many years to produce a breed that would perform its duty for the Gamekeeper.

Balance and proportion are very important. He should be a powerfully built dog, showing great strength but not cumbersome. If he is overweight, incorrectly constructed, clumsy and with bad feet, he will be unable to perform his work.

Ideally he should have a square proportioned head with his muzzle being 1/3 the length of his entire head. Level bite is preferred.

The Bullmastiff should be muscular and powerful in his movement, covering the ground with purpose. With well developed forequarters and thighs, a strong topline tight pasterns and good tight cat feet.

Height and weight are important as they must be able to hold down a poacher but also they must not be overweight and cumbersome, which would deter them from moving through forests, quickly and quietly.

It is important to realise that not every Bullmastiff is going to be a show winning specimen. What is important is that the breeders continue to strive for a happy, healthy dog. One that will be loved and will return that love to whom ever is lucky enough to own this magnificent breed.

Debbie Morrison-Teirney

Stonebridge Bullmastiffs and Bulldogs.

Australia and New Zealand.

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  • 4 weeks later...
How much daily exercise would be considered appropriate for an adult Bullmastiff?

Some Bullmastiffs are out all day in runs.

Mine enjoy lazing in the sun with the ocassional zoomies around the yard.

They love their rest time though although in cooler months do get daily walks.

My older girl is getting a little slower these days although still beats the other two up but she is a real fair dinkum couch potato.

Abbey is alot fitter than Morgan and Alex has yard exercise to keep him trim for the show ring

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  • 3 weeks later...

Two questions for two BM people specifically.

Ravensmyst00 - Is there a term for the colouring of the dog in your little pic? I love the look of the pale underside of this dog in contrast to the darker top. Can you post a full picture? He/she is beautiful!

Kaffy Magee - I have a female Dobermann and a male Bull Mastiff and I know you have the opposite arrangement (and a lot more of them) How do you find they get on? I find the BM to be the boss - but you know how pushy Dobes are - I can't help thinking it may be a better arrangement to have the one you have next time. My last Dobe was a male and a lot more laid back than the bitch I have now. They get on well and she accepts he is the boss but still constantly has to try her luck to see what she can get away with him!

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  • 2 months later...

We are considering a bullmastiff that is about two years old, from a breeder. We have children and cats. Do you think that an animal of that age would deal well with rehoming? We adopted a golden retriever ( who has how passed) at three years old and she fit right in within a couple of days, but wasn't sure if the Mastiff's would change families as easily.

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We are considering a bullmastiff that is about two years old, from a breeder. We have children and cats. Do you think that an animal of that age would deal well with rehoming? We adopted a golden retriever ( who has how passed) at three years old and she fit right in within a couple of days, but wasn't sure if the Mastiff's would change families as easily.

That age is quite suitable for rehoming, both from a leaving a home to arriving at a new home. If the home it has been in does not have cats be prepared for that introduction and friendship to take some time.

You should find that most breeders who are looking to rehouse an older dog would do so on a trial basis to begin with. So if you have any doubts about it working within a month the breeder should be prepared to take the dog back.

We have been on each end of this scenario and have found the dogs adapt very quickly to love and affection offered to them by new people.

Hope it works out for both parties and you do become the owner of this lovely breed.

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  • 1 month later...

I would like to ask a question i have two Bullmastiffs

and would recommend them to anyone kind gentle souls

that just love people

My two Bullmastiffs have heath issue that i wonder is it common

My male has the worst skin heat spots you name it his 10.5 yrs

My female has calsafacation? spelling wrong sorry....in both back knees 8 yrs

i think i will always have this beautiful breed

but worry is it common or was i unlucky getting them from the same line?

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I think we need some pics in this thread :worship: I'd love to see some puppy and adult pics :curtsey: I'd love to have two BM's...a red or brindle boy and a brindle girl :curtsey:

I'll have to revisit this idea...lol...could end up being one BM and one Berner - showing could prove a handful tho... :thumbsup:

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