Belgian Shepherd Dog

[Troy]

The Belgian Shepherd Dog

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=206 )

Group: Group 5 (Working Dogs)

History: In Belgium, at the end of the 1800s, there were a great many herding dogs, whose type was varied and whose coats were extremely dissimilar. In order to rationalise this state of affairs, some enthusiastic dog fanciers formed a group and sought guidance from Prof. A. Reul of the Cureghem Veterinary Medical School, whom one must consider to have been the real pioneer and founder of the breed. The breed was officially born between 1891 and 1897. On September 29th, 1891, the Belgian Shepherd Dog Club (Club du Chien de Berger Belge) was founded in Brussels and in the same year on November 15th in Cureghem, Professor A Reul organised a gathering of 117 dogs, which allowed him to carry out a return and choose the best specimens. In the following years they began a real programme of selection, carrying out some very close interbreeding involving a few stud dogs. By April 3rd, 1892, a first detailed breed standard had been drawn up by the Belgian Shepherd Dog Club. One single breed was allowed, with three coat varieties. However, as was said at the time, the Belgian Shepherd only belonged to ordinary people and therefore the breed still lacked status. As a result, it wasn't until 1901 that the first Belgian Shepherds were registered with the Royal Saint-Hubert Society Stud Book (L.O.S.H.). During the following years, the prime movers among the Belgian Shepherd enthusiasts set to work with great determination to unify the type and correct the faults. It can be said that by 1910 the type and temperament of the Belgian Shepherd had been established. During the history of the Belgian Shepherd, the questions of differing but acceptable varieties and colours had led to many heated discussions. On the other hand, anything involving morphology, temperament and suitability for work has never caused any disagreement.

General Appearance: The Belgian Shepherd Dog is a mediolineal dog, harmoniously proportioned, combining elegance and power, of medium size, with dry, strong muscle, fitting into a square, rustic, used to the open air life and built to resist the frequent atmospheric variations of the Belgian climate. Through the harmony of its shape and its high head carriage, the Belgian Shepherd Dog should give the impression of that elegant strength which has become the heritage of the selected representatives of a working breed. The Belgian Shepherd Dog is to be judged in its natural stance, without physical contact with the handler.

Characteristics: The Belgian Shepherd Dog is a watchful and active dog, bursting with energy, and always ready to leap into action. As well as its innate skill at guarding flocks, it also possesses the highly prized qualities of the best guard dog of property. Without any hesitation it is the stubborn and keen protector of its owner. It brings together all those qualities necessary for a shepherd, defence and service dog.

Its lively, alert temperament and its confident nature, showing no fear or aggressiveness, should be obvious in its body stance and the proud attentive expression in its sparkling eyes.

When judging the breed, one should take into consideration its calm and fearless temperament.

Temperament: The Belgian Shepherd Dog Groenendael is a watchful and active dog, bursting with energy, and always ready to leap into action. As well as its innate skill at guarding flocks, it also possesses the highly prized qualities of the best guard dog of property. Without any hesitation it is the stubborn and keen protector of its owner. It brings together all those qualities necessary for a shepherd, defence and service dog. Its lively, alert temperament and its confident nature, showing no fear or aggressiveness, should be obvious in its body stance and the proud attentive expression in its sparkling eyes. When judging the breed, one should take into consideration its calm and fearless temperament.

Head And Skull: Carried high, long without exaggeration, rectilinear, well chiselled and dry. Skull and muzzle are roughly equal in length, with at the most a very slight bias in favour of the muzzle which puts the finishing touch to the whole head. The skull is of medium width, in proportion with the length of head, with a forehead flat rather than round, frontal groove not very pronounced, in profile parallel to an imaginary line extending the muzzle line. The occipital crest little developed. The brow ridges and zygomatic arches not prominent. Stop: Moderate. Nose: Black. Muzzle: Medium length and well chiselled under the eyes, narrowing gradually towards the nose like an elongated wedge. The bridge of the nose is straight and parallel to the continuation of the top line of the forehead. The mouth is well split which means that when the mouth is open the commissures of the lips are pulled right back, the jaws being well apart. Lips: Thin, tight and strongly pigmented. Cheeks: Dry and quite flat, although well muscled.

Eyes: Medium size, neither protruding or sunken, slightly almond shaped, obliquely set, brownish colour, preferably black, black-rimmed eyelids, with a direct, lively, intelligent and enquiring look.

Ears: Rather small, set high, distinctly triangular appearance, well-rounded outer ear, pointed tips, stiff, carried upright and vertical when the dog is alert.

Mouth: Strong, white teeth, regularly and strongly set in well-developed jaws. Scissor bite, a pincer bite that is preferred by sheep and livestock herders is tolerated. Complete dentition according to the dental formula. The absence of two premolars 1 (2 P1) is tolerated and the molars 3 (M3) are not taken into consideration.

Neck: Well standing out, slightly elongated, rather upright, well-muscled, broadening gradually towards the shoulders, without dewlap and the nape slightly arched.

Forequarters: Bone solid but not heavy, muscles dry and strong, front legs upright when viewed from all sides and perfectly parallel when seen from the front. Shoulder: The shoulder blade should be long and oblique, well attached, forming a sufficient angle with the humerus, ideally measuring 110-115 degrees. Upper Arm: Long and sufficiently oblique. Elbow: Firm, neither turning out or tied in. Forearm: Long and straight. Wrist (carpus): Very firm and clean. Pastern: Strong and short, as perpendicular to the ground as possible or only very slightly sloping forward.

Body: Powerful without being heavy. The length from the point of the shoulder to point of buttock equal to height at withers.

Top line: Upper line of back and loins is straight.

Withers: Pronounced.

Back: Firm, short and well muscled.

Loins: Solid, short, sufficiently broad, well muscled.

Croup: Well muscled; only very slightly sloping. Sufficiently broad but not excessively so.

Chest: Slightly broad, but well let down. The upper part of the ribs are arched. Seen from the front the fore chest is slightly broad, but without being narrow.

Underline: Begins below the chest and rises gently in a harmonious curve towards the belly, which is neither drooping or tucked up, but slightly raised and moderately developed.

Hindquarters: Powerful but not heavy. In profile the hind legs are upright and when seen from behind perfectly parallel.

Upper Thigh: Medium length, broad and strongly muscled.

Stifle: Approximately on the plumb line from the hip. Normal stifle angulation.

Lower Thigh: Medium length, broad and muscled.

Hock: Close to the ground, broad and muscled with moderate angulation.

Rear Pastern: Solid and short, dewclaws not desirable.

Feet: The front feet are round and cat like whilst the rear feet may be slightly oval. The toes are arched and well closed, the pads thick and springy and the nails dark and strong.

Tail: Well set on and strong at the base. Of medium length, reaching at least to the hock, but preferably further. At rest carried down with the tip curved backwards at the level of the hock, raised more when moving, although without passing the horizontal. The curve towards the tip becomes more accentuated, without ever at any time forming a hook or deviation.

Gait/Movement: Lively and free movement at all gaits, the Belgian Shepherd Dog is a good galloper but its normal gaits are the walk and especially the trot. The limbs move parallel to the median plane of the body. At high speed the feet come nearer to the median plane. At the trot the reach is medium, the movement even and easy, with good rear drive and the top line remains tight while the front legs are not lifted too high. Always on the move the Belgian Shepherd seem tireless, its gait is fast, springy and lively. It is capable of suddenly changing direction at full speed. Due to its exuberant character and its desire to guard and protect, it has a definite tendency to move in circles.

Skin: Elastic but taut over all the body. The edges of the lips and eyelids are strongly pigmented.

Coat: Since the coat varies in length, direction, appearance and colour among Belgian Shepherds, this particular point has been adopted as the criterion for distinguishing between the four varieties of the breed: the Groenendael, the Tervueren, the Malinois and the Laekenois.

These four varieties are judged separately and can each be awarded Challenges Certificates etc.

HAIR: In all the varieties the hair must always be dense, close-fitting and of good texture, with the woolly undercoat forming an excellent protective covering.

A. LONG HAIR: The hair is short on the head, the outer side of the ears and the lower part of the legs, except on the rear side of the forearm which is covered from elbow to wrist by long hairs called fringes. The hair is long and smooth on the rest of the body and longer and more abundant around the neck and on the forechest, where it forms a collarette or ruff and a jabot or apron. The opening of the air is protected by thick tufts of hair. From the base of the ear the hair is upright and frames the head. The back of the thighs is covered with very long abundant hair forming the culottes or breeches. The tail is furnished with long, abundant hair forming a plume.

The Groenendael and the Tervueren are the long-haired.

B. SHORT HAIR: The hair is very short on the head, the outer sides of the ears and the lower part of the legs. It is short over the rest of the body and fuller at the tail and around the neck where it forms a collarette or ruff which begins at the base of the ear, stretching as far as the throat. As well, the back of the thighs is fringed with longer hair. The tail is ear of corn shaped, but does not form a plume.

The Malinois is the short-haired.

C. ROUGH HAIR: What especially characterises the rough hair variety is the roughness and dryness of the hair, which, moreover, is rasping and tousled. About 6 cm long over the whole body, the hair is shorter on the top of the muzzle, the forehead and the legs. The hair around the eyes and those furnishing the muzzle should not be so long as to disguise the shape of the head. However, it is essential to have furnishings on the muzzle. The tail should not form a plume.

The Laekenois is the rough-haired.

Colour: Mask: For Tervueren and Malinois the mask must be very pronounced and tend to encompass the top and bottom lip, the corners of the lips and the eyelids in one single black zone. A strict minimum of six points of skin pigmentation is called for: the two ears, the two upper eyelids and the two lips, upper and lower, which must be black.

Black overlay: In Tervueren and Malinois, the black overlay means that the hairs have a black tip which shades the base colour. This blackening is in any case �flamed� and must not be present in great patches nor in real stripes (brindled). In the Laekenois the black shading is more discreetly expressed.

Groenendael: Only uniform black.

Tervueren: Only fawn with black overlay or grey with black overlay, with black mask; however, the fawn with black overlay is still preferred. The fawn must be rich, neither light nor washed-out. Any dog whose coat colour is anything but fawn with black overlay or does not match the desired intensity of colour cannot be considered an elite specimen.

Malinois: Only fawn with black overlay and with black mask.

Laekenois: Only fawn with traces of black overlay, mainly on the muzzle and the tail.

For all varieties: a small amount of white is tolerated on forechest and toes.

Sizes: Height at withers:

The ideal height at withers is on average -

62 cm for males

58 cm for females

Limits: 2cm less, 4 cm more.

Weight:

Males about 25-30kg

Females about 20-25kg

Measurements: Average normal measures for an adult male Belgian Shepherd Dog of 62 cm at the withers:

Length of body (from point of shoulder to point of buttock) 62 cm

Length of head 25cm

Length of muzzle 12.5-13cm

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

General appearance: Cloddy, lacking elegance, too light or too slender, longer than high, fitting in a rectangle.

Head: Heavy, too strong, lacking parallelism, not sufficiently chiselled or dry, forehead too rounded, stop too accentuated or too flat, muzzle too short or pinched, Roman nose, brow ridges or zygomatic arches too prominent.

Nose, lips and eyelids: Traces of depigmentation.

Dentition: Badly aligned incisors. Serious fault: lack of one incisor (1I), one premolar 2 (1 P2), one premolar3 (1P3) or three premolars 1 (3 P1).

Eyes: Light, round.

Ears: Large, long, too broad at the base, set low, carried outward or inward.

Neck: Slender, short or deep set.

Body: Too long, thoracic cage too broad (cylindrical).

Withers: Flat, low.

Top line: Back and/or loins long, weak, sagging or arched.

Croup: Too sloping, overbuilt.

Underline: Too much or too little let down. Too much belly.

Tail: Set too low, carried too high, forming a hook, deviated.

Limbs: Bone too light or too heavy, bad upright stance in profile (e.g. front pasterns too sloping or weal wrists), from the front (feet turning in or out, out at elbow, etc), or from behind (hind legs too close, too wide apart or barrel shaped, hocks close or open, etc), too little or exaggeratedly angulated.

Feet: Spreading. Gait: Moving close, too short a stride, too little drive, poor back transmission, high stepping action.

Coat: all four varieties: insufficient undercoat.

Groenendael and Tervueren: woolly, wavy, curly hair; hair not long enough.

Malinois: hair half-long where it should be short; smooth-haired; harsh hairs scattered in the short coat; wavy coat.

Laekenois: hair too long, silky, wavy, crisp-haired or short; filled with fine hairs scattered in tufts in the rough hair; hairs too long around the eye or the lower end of the head (the chin); bushy tail.

Colour: for all four varieties: white marking on chest forming tie; white on the feet going beyond toes.

Groenendael: reddish tinges in the coat; grey breeches.

Tervueren: grey.

Tervueren and Malinois: brindle; tints not warm enough; not enough or too much black overlay or set in patches over the body; not enough mask.

Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois: too light a fawn; a base colour which is very diluted, named washed-out, is considered a serious fault.

Colour: White markings on the chest forming a tie, white on the feet going beyond the toes. Reddish tinges in the coat, grey breeches a serious fault. Temperament: Specimens lacking in self-confidence or overly nervous. DISQUALIFYING FAULTS: Temperament: Aggressive or timid specimens. General appearance: Lack of breed type. Dentition: Overshot, undershot, even if contact is not lost (reverse scissor bite), cross bite, absence of one canine (1 C), one upper carnassial (1 P4) or lower carnassial (1 M1), one molar (1M1 upper jaw or 1 M2, M3 are not taken into account), one premolar 3 (1 P3) plus one other tooth or a total of three teeth (excluding the premolars 1) or more. Nose, lips, eyelids: Strong depigmentation. Ears: Drooping or artificially kept erect. Tail: Missing or shortened at birth or by docking, carried too high and ringed or curled. Coat: Lack of undercoat. Colour: Any colours which do not correspond with those of the described varieties, too widespread white markings on fore chest especially if they reach as far as the neck, white on feet going more than halfway up the front or the back pasterns and forming socks, white markings anywhere other than forechest and toes; lack of mask, including a muzzle of lighter colour than the rest of the coat in Tervueren and Malinois. Size: Outside the limits laid down.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

See Photos of Belgian Shepherd Dogs

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

• Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  
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See Photos of Belgian Shepherd Dogs

Belgian Shepherd Dog Breeders

Belgian Shepherd Dog Puppies For Sale

[Belgianlover]

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

First time owner of this breed

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

Initially defined amongst the greatly differing herding dogs of Belgium in the late 1800s

3. How common is it in Australia?

Not very common, but they are around

4. What is the average lifespan?

12-15 years from what I've read

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Wary of strangers initially, constantly busy, playful and cheeky, strong desire to please, can be destructive if not stimulated enough (mental stimulation is needed as much as physical). VERY intelligent and respond quickly to training if done correctly.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

Not 100% sure yet as mine is not yet an adult but going on what she requires now I would say at least a half an hour to an hour walk each day with mental stimulation also.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

Probably not an ideal first dog.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Not recommended as they can become destructive without enough mental stimulation

9. How much grooming is required?

Surprisingly less than you would think, as far as tervurens and groenendaels are concerned, only a decent brush once maybe twice a week unless shedding. (I am unsure of what a laekenois grooming requirements would be and could only assume that a malenois would require the least).

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

As puppies they do have a very strong tendency to jump when excited and due to the fact that they grow quite quickly they could unintentionally knock small children over. Other than this though, they are good with children with regards to their temperament if they are introduced to them regularly as puppies.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

Hip and Elbow scores of the parents should be checked, the breeder should also ask if either parent has suffered seisures and the parents should have their eyes tested for PRA too

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

Personally I wouldn't buy a puppy that had parents with scores of over 8 in their hips (prefer under 5) and 1 in elbows. Their eyes should be rated "clear"

Edited August 23, 2009 by Belgianlover

[Staranais]

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Long time malinois admirer, first time malinois owner!

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

I'll leave this to the breeders to answer, since I don't know the specifics, except that they were originally a sheep herding/flock guardian breed from Belgium. Judging from my own girl's reaction to sheep, I'd suspect that the herding they did was more of a driving sheep ahead of the shepherd using voice/body language (rather than gathering sheep up and controlling them by using eye like a border collie or heading dogs tends to do)?

3. How common is it in Australia?

Not sure as don't live in Australia.

4. What is the average lifespan?

Early teens, I believe.

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Very active dogs. Sensitive and at worst can even be spooky or poor nerved - check your breeder's dogs and lines carefully for this. Intelligent dogs, learn quickly, so are great at obedience, agility and tracking. Really attentive to their surroundings, and aware what's going on in their environment. High prey drive. Very vocal! My girl barks at anything, it was a breeze to teach her to speak on command (teaching her to shut up is going to take a little more work though...)

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

In malinois, this can differ between show and working lines. I'm not sure if the show/working split is so pronounced in the other 3 varieties.

My working line malinois puppy (nearly 5 months old) currently gets about 30 min of airscent training, 20 min leash walking, either a tracking problem or a 30 minute offleash run at the park, several car trips, and several trick training sessions every day. This just about keeps her on an even keel (she still digs me lovely holes in the yard when I'm not home, though!) I'm expecting to have to give her much more mental and physical exercise as she grows older.

If you want a pet, or a competition malinois, I'd recommend the show lines. A show line can still be a great competition dog if that's what you're after, but is much easier to live with between competition.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

If you're motivated and really do your research, and are prepared to exercise and train your dog every day, probably the show lines would be OK for a first time owner. It wouldn't be my first recommendation for most first time owners though.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

On the whole I wouldn't recommend one for an owner who was going to leave the dog alone for most of the day.

9. How much grooming is required?

My malinois so far has just needed a brush down every few days and a bath when she's perfumed herself with chicken poo. So she's very low maintenance! Have no idea what type of maintenance the other coat types would need, but presumably more?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

The belgians I've met so far have been good with children and social, but are still very excitable, very large, and can be nippy unless trained. I certainly wouldn't leave mine alone with children or infirm people unsupervised, even when she is well trained.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

As above - hips, elbows, eyes for PRA.

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

I've met spooky/fearful belgians, and have heard this isn't uncommon, so I think buying from a breeder that breeds strong nerved dogs is something to aim for. Otherwise, hips, elbows and eyes, as above.

[Nekhbet]

WORKING LINE MALINOIS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

owner

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

The breed(s) were developed in Belgium. Different regions had their own unique dog, the Malinois coming from the Malines region, as herding dogs. The Malinois has now been streamlined into a more utilitarian breed for military, police, SR, etc

3. How common is it in Australia?

still fairly uncommon, more popular in working/sport circles then pet

4. What is the average lifespan?

Malinois will live into their teens.

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

very sensitive breed, devoted to their owners and become VERY attached to you. They do not respond well to harsh or overly physical people. A thinking breed they do not like highly repetitive work and pattern work, they prefer to use their minds and problem solve but they are incredibly fast learners. Tolerance to other dogs I have noticed can be limited for some dogs, and once they take a disliking to a person it is hard to make them trust again. If you are not their owner they wont forgive quickly and definately wont forget. I have also noticed my girl is mildly social, doesnt mind a pat now and then but on the whole sticks to me. They know they have a job to do and will do it, don't provide one and they will make one. Become bored easily.

They also have their own breed 'eccentricities'. Having a dog bare teeth and snap at your face will put most people off but my girl wants to play. She will never bit she just sits there and air snaps. They also behave rather snake like, say if a new dog comes up to my girl she will stand still, slowly follow the dog with her eyes and then slooooooooowly lean in to reach the dogs face and 'BANG' either a nip or nose poke to say 'OK enough' and walk off.

They are slow to mature. They are no way adults by 18 months, even 2 years, I would say mentally my bitch was really coming out as a mature, hard girl at 3+. Could be lines, could be her. I also left her entire.

Uncontrolled drive levels, lack of civil drive, weak nerves, human and dog aggression can all be problems in the breed so chose wisely.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

how long can you stay conscious? My Malinois used to work a 12 hour shift with me then come home, grab her toy and jump about wanting to play *sigh* Although it is quality over quantity when it comes to exercise. If you think a couple of long walks a day will satisfy the dog it wont. Exercise that involves thinking tire the dog more, treadmills are excellent for them.

My own dogs relatives are in their early teens and STILL want to work! So dont think mals have a short work life!

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

No. I would never recommend a working Malinois to someone who has not had dogs before, it is too complicated a breed.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

If you can provide space, good toys, another dog and work them enough outside then yes they can. I have worked full time and as long as my girl gets her training sessions she was fine during the day.

They can jump VERY tall fences and nusience bark if they are bored, and they can bark non stop for hours on end. If you are not dedicated to doing something almost every day for the next 10+ years dont get yourself a working mal. They are not 'oh i'm too tired to look at the dog today' type dogs.

9. How much grooming is required?

Minimal. I use a kong zoom groom when she's shedding her undercoat twice a year and a good bath. Apart from that not much really.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

very small children I would not let near my dog, she has a low tolerance for them. If the dog has been brought up in a household that has children and a very experienced owner then yes.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

HD/ED, thyroid, eye problems like PRA, cataracts, lipid deposits, apart from that an overall quite healthy breed.

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you are buying a working pup LOOK AT THE PARENTS. Meet them, look at what the breeder has been doing with the pups (socialisation is very important in this breed) and see how stable a temperament the lines have. The malinois gene pool in Aus is quite small, most dogs will link back to some quite famous dogs and kennels both from here and overseas (de deaux pottois being one)

do not buy from a breeder who encourages aggression in their dogs and sells it to you as 'workability and drive'. A poor temperament Malinois is a millstone around your neck as well as a liability. Working Mals can be calm, quiet and friendly without losing their great workability and drive. For people new to working Mals I always direct them to www.malinois.net.au as a start and to see if a working Mal will be suitable for their situation, and Amanda is a wealth of information for both show/work lines.

Make sure you see hip/elbow scores for the parents and do some digging as to any health problems in the lines.

[nickojoy]

WORKING LINE MALINOIS

For people new to working Mals I always direct them to www.malinois.net.au as a start and to see if a working Mal will be suitable for their situation, and Amanda is a wealth of information for both show/work lines.

I couldn't agree more :D

[mersonmalinois]

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Breeder, owner, judge

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

It was developed in Belgium as an all-purpose farm dog.

4. What is the average lifespan?

12-15 years ~ our oldest lived to be 16 years, 7 months of age

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Intelligent, athletic, curious, protective, devoted to home & family, extremely biddable

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

A nice long walk at least, running around the property/yard, interaction with the owner is important

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

No, it is not. It's a breed best suited for experienced dog people.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Not sure about "easily", but they manage if left alone. They prefer the company of their family and/or other dogs.

9. How much grooming is required?

Weekly nail trim & brushing. The coated varieties require more care than the Malinois.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

I believe it does better with older children and active adults.

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

Ask the breeder for references from prior puppy buyers. Minimum health certifications should be: annual eye exam, free of hip/elbow dysplasia. Since I am in the US, I have no idea what an acceptable hip/elbow score would be via the Aus scheme.

[whitka]

Is there much difference in temperement between the 4 types?

Edited February 10, 2010 by whitka

[mersonmalinois]

Is there much difference in temperement between the 4 types?

There can be. There are differences between various bloodlines too. It's important to let the breeder know exactly what you are looking for in a BSD. Hopefully he/she will be able to direct you to a breeder who has the temperament you are looking for.

[mikeee]

Is there much difference in temperement between the 4 types?

There can be. There are differences between various bloodlines too. It's important to let the breeder know exactly what you are looking for in a BSD. Hopefully he/she will be able to direct you to a breeder who has the temperament you are looking for.

How much do pups usually go for?

[Staranais]

Is there much difference in temperement between the 4 types?

There can be. There are differences between various bloodlines too. It's important to let the breeder know exactly what you are looking for in a BSD. Hopefully he/she will be able to direct you to a breeder who has the temperament you are looking for.

How much do pups usually go for?

I think it depends a little on where you live and which breeder you pick. I have heard figures quoted anywhere from $1000 to $2000.

Personally however, I'd suggest you find a breeder you really like and then commit to paying what they want.

If that sounds over the top, please remember that although a good belgian can be a joy to work with, a badly bred one can be a real pain, even dangerous. I've talked to a few people, and heard of several more, who have had to have their malinois euthanised because it was too nervy or too sharp & they simply couldn't justify the liability of having such a dog. And have talked to others that couldn't work the dog in the venue of their choice as it was too shy.

Investing in a good breeder will be well worth your while - buying a belgian simply isn't a time to save money. Talk to breeders, meet as many of their dogs as you can, ask for testimonials, and ask ask ask every malinois person you meet about breeders and lines, before you decide which breeder to go for.

For the record, my young lady is a Vanrusselhof girl, and I'm very happy with her temperament.

Edited April 30, 2010 by Staranais

[BelgianPup]

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Long time admirer, first time owner. (Groendael bitch)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

Multi- purpose herding dog in Belgium. Breed as we know it developed in 1800s and into early 1900s.

3. How common is it in Australia?

Not very common, however, not so rare that you want see other Belgians out and about.

4. What is the average lifespan?

12 - 15yrs

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Reserved with strangers but should not be shy or agressive. Very intelligent and inquisitive they respond well to training and thrive on mental stimulation. They are unfailingly loyal and sensitive to their owners moods and are happiest when included in the day to day lives of their household. They can possess 'atittude' and will tell you loudly if they do not wish to do something yet they happy when working and are generally biddable.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

30min physical activity but more importantly they need mental stimulation (training, games etc.)

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

Not recommeded for first time dog owner.

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

They can, however, ensure they have interesting toys to entertain themselves with or they can be come destructive and bored. Ideally they would not be isolated all the time.

9. How much grooming is required?

Much less than I hjad anticpated! When not shedding (which happens twice a year) a good brush once a week is sufficent.

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

If well trained they are fine, however, as with any young dog they can be overly excited and while untrained would be too boisterous for small children.

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

Check parents hips scores.

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

hips scores are a min req.

NB There is strong anecdotal evidence to suggest that Belgians experience an increased sensitivity to anaesthetic. From what I've read they respond best when 'sight hound protocols' are followed, which was explained to me as the drugs being administered slowly to effect rather than based on the dogs weight.

[ZEPING]

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Owner (working line mal)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

See above

3. How common is it in Australia?

No commen at all there are some great breeders in working lines i would sugest looking on specilist canine and talking to a couple of people there

4. What is the average lifespan?

about 14

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Ive seen them in all different types of personalitys and temperament the whole spectrum however ever as a general rule of them they are confident and inquesitive this is talking about the worling line mals

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

about 1hr of solid work and you need to give the dog a purpose or it will create its own

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

DEFINALY NOT!

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Yes but good luck to your back yard

9. How much grooming is required?

very little if any

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

Yes and no with mine i would trust around children however i think this is more a question of upbrining

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

Yes but not to the degree of the GSD

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

[Podengo]

How affectionate is the Malinois? Would they enjoy a good cuddle on the couch after a hard day of working? Or would they rather take themselves off to bed in the evenings when it's time to relax?

[Rozzie]

Depends on the dog. My Mal was a sook.

[Guest english.ivy]

Mine is a Groen and she's a huge cuddle bum.

Never met such a cuddly canine and she'll cuddle anyone.

[Nekhbet]

How affectionate is the Malinois?

rediculously. All they want to do is be around you. I do have a pair of absolute tarts at my place.

[Guest english.ivy]

How affectionate is the Malinois?

rediculously. All they want to do is be around you. I do have a pair of absolute tarts at my place.

Think this is the Belgian Shepherd to a T, which ever of the four you own.

If you don't want a clingy dog, don't get a Belgian Shepherd.

[Bush Chook]

I am about to get my first Groenendael puppy, and was wondering if anybody could recommend a good vet in the Sydney region who has had experience with Belgians?

[Rozzie]

Where do you live? Sydney is a rather large place.

[Bush Chook]

In Parramatta, but I'm willing to travel a bit to get a vet who has experience with Belgians which is why I said in the Sydney region.

Edited January 26, 2012 by Bush Chook