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Teaching To Ignore


lincolnbl
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Hi all

you may have seen in the intro area our little puppy, Missy. She is a 10wk old Brittany.

Out on our walks she is usually really good but when she sees other people (particularly joggers) she starts leaping forward and pulling hard to get close to them. I have tried to avoid people other than family members patting her but she is a social little thing.

I have no idea how to 'teach' her to ignore people and other dogs.

Currently I try to break her concetration on the subject by getting her to sit or calling her to walk on but that doesnt work consistently enough to learn the behaviour (I think) as she is really fixated.

I have read the K9 Socialisation sticky but I am at a bit of a loss as to how to go about 'teaching' this behaviour.

Any help would be much appreciated.

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Firstly, I wouldn't be stopping people outside the family from patting her - you want her to accept "other people" as people too or you could end up with an aggressive or fearful dog who doesn't accept strangers. Obviously if others are interacting with her you need to control what happens (make sure she obeys your rules even when interacting with others for example).

Joggers are very exciting because they're fast moving. I wouldn't be too wound up about it at this age, she's bound to want to look and will be excited by the movement so slowly and gently to do the job - if you get her associating joggers with bad experiences it could also make for problems - like chasing and biting because "joggers are bad" could get stuck in her mind.

Set her up. Have a friend help out and get them to jog past. When she get fixated on them the friend stops moving completely and (on leash) you allow missy to approach (try not to let her pull like mad, but don't jerk her back much, you want her to approach) and she can have a good sniff. The "jogger" ignores her. Eventually she'll just go, huh, it's just a person and then the jogger can pat her and she'll realise joggers are good but not really interesting - but I'd avoid making the jogger too interesting or she'll just want to meet more of them!

In 'real life' situations, get some really good treats and when you see a jogger coming start talking to her and make sure she knows you have the treats. If she glances at you, praise like mad, if she looks at you for longer, see if you can convince her to sit (however briefly!) and give her a treat. It will take patience.

Teach her "watch" or "look" - where she looks at you (eye contact) on command, but this too will take patience! And later you can use this command if she's getting distracted.

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I have this with my happy and exuberant 16 wko lab as well, he pulls hard towards anyone coming our way to lick them to death. This is the advice my canine kindy teacher gave, I have just started to try it (no miracle cure yet but we're working on it). Archie wants to meet EVERYONE ! :laugh:

For the lunging problem: whenever Archie makes any move toward lunging to someone or something turn and walk the other way (he has to be on leash for this work). A simple solution but you will need to be dedicated and stay alert to his body language. It might be you notice his shoulders tense up before he lunges or his ears prick up with added interest when he spots someone - that's when you about-turn and walk away for at least 6 steps, then turn back and try again, if he starts to lunge turn and walk away, repeat until he gets it!! You could try roping in a friend to set up the situation when he's most likely to lunge (maybe someone walking their own friendly dog?). The premise is if Archie doesn't stay calm he does not get to meet and greet, instead he's turned around and walked away. But if he does stay calm he gets to be closer to the person and eventually go right up to them.

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Did you speak to the trainer you saw with regards to the excitability with people and pulling on walks? I am training a wonderful Brittany at the moment who sounds similar- highly social but a little over the top.

Did the trainer say why they advise against puppy pre school? I certainly think that you need to find a well organised puppy school with a knowledgeable trainer and learning to work with the distractions in a controlled environment would be a good start for you.

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I agree, a good puppy school is priceless. Have a look at this link for some great socialisation tips and there is also a link on the page about choosing a puppy school http://www.k9events.com/pups3.html - If I was taking one of my Brittanys to a puppy class I would prefer to see a Delta qualification

You have a young excitable puppy, teach it things like watch, sit in a non distracting environment (indoors) and very gradually add distractions for better success, and remember your pup is young and excited and it sounds like you are putting the effort in so she will improve in time.

I would recommend one of these books too

http://www.amazon.com/Puppy-School-Steps-P...2040&sr=1-6

http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Newly-...2040&sr=1-1

Edited by helen
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Thanks for the articles Helen, lots of good reading.

We had the trainer come the same day we got her (on their advice) so some of these behaviours werent apparent then, like excessive pulling on the lead etc.

I guess the trainers focus (similar to k9force sticky) was on getting the dog used to its local environment through lots of positive experiences and exposure.

I agree the a good puppy school could be good but I am struggling to go against the advice of our trainer who has a lifetime of experience.

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the trick is to show that the dog ONLY gets attention when the dog behaves. So teach the pup to sit the praise!!! sit, PRAISE!!! and only praise when the dog is quiet. If she is excited, walk the other way. Dont tell her off, she doesnt need it, she needs to learn get too excited = the good thing goes away. Sit nicely and you will get attention.

If the dog pulls what I do is little sharp tugs on the collar and walk in the opposite direction calling the dog loudly and excitedly to follow, when it does REWARD AND PRAISE! YOU have to make yourself more exciting then the outside world. Remember - her exposure to the world is severely limited and of course she gets excited! Praise every time the dog looks at you and walks nicely. I dont like chastising dogs verbally when teaching a walk because thats what you have a collar and lead for - as an extension of your hand and control mechanism. No dog can ignore little sharp tugs on the lead as they dont allow an opposition response pulling and its like someone poking you ... it gets to your brain pretty quickly! You dont want to do big corrections or pull the dog, but little sharp tugs do not harm and in fact can work well to help the dog understand the leash, collar and idea of how to behave.

I'm sure it has been explained to you brittanys are boucy gundogs so dont expect miracles too fast :laugh: Are you considering doing a sport with her? She will need mental stimulation and activity throughout her life!

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We had the trainer come the same day we got her (on their advice) so some of these behaviours werent apparent then, like excessive pulling on the lead etc.

I find this bizarre.I gather the pup was 8 weeks when you got it & not lead trained so excessive pulling isnt a behaviour but a training issue that would take time.Our pups go use to alead but certainly not trained

I dont now any trainer that would insist on coming out the day a pup comes home to assess??Sounds very weird & doesnt allow a pup to settle or even give you a chance to get afeel for your pup

Out on our walks she is usually really good but when she sees other people (particularly joggers) she starts leaping forward and pulling hard to get close to them. I have tried to avoid people other than family members patting her but she is a social little thing.

I have no idea how to 'teach' her to ignore people and other dogs.

I agree with others she needs to meet other humans,if you dont allow it you could end up with a very anti social dog & that is a nightmare .

Personally i think your expecting way to much at this age & in such a short time span .

Your pup will grasp things BUT it takes time & repetition.

If the joggers are more interesting then you need to look at what your doing.you need to make yourself more interesting & that means using various methods that some trainers may not agree with.

I have setters & at 10 weeks i simply want them to be comfy in there surroundings,once confident we focus more on whats expected & buy 6 months i hope to have a dog that is controlable in the outside world.Mine are showdogs so they need to deal with alot & its easy to do but i dont want it done to quickly.

Most of mine have come for the east so the first month is about getting to now me ,my voice tone & building a trusting relationship.once thats done they listen & crave to learn

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Thanks Nekhbet. Thats exactly what the trainer had me doing. I will try turning around and calling her when she pulls.

I also tried the 'look' command this morning to get her attention focussed on me when a distraction came up. She got the hang of it - kabana sausage got things moving pretty quick. :D

As for sport, obedience or agility training did catch my interest, but I havent really investigated it too far yet.

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I am struggling to go against the advice of our trainer who has a lifetime of experience.

No offence, but if he's been training dogs for a lifetime he may also be a little set in his ways and reluctant to embrace new ideas. There are a lot of self taught 'old school' trainers out there who still use training techniques that were in use twenty years ago.

I think a good puppy pre-school can be invaluable, but you must do your research and make sure it's properly run by a qualified trainer and not a vet nurse. I have nothing against vet nurses, but they're not always well versed in canine behaviour.

Edited by Miranda
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Do you have lots of friends that can help you to socialise your puppy? And friends with fully vaccinated, friendly adult dogs to help you socialise your pup with other dogs? If you do, puppy school may not be essential. But IMO a well run puppy pre school with a qualified trainer as Miranda suggests can be extremely beneficial. Your trainer may have had experiences with puppy schools that are not well run and if that was the only option (to go to a 'puppy free for all') then i would agree completely. But you must make sure you safely socialise your puppy at this age- puppy school or no puppy school :D

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some puppy schools are rubbish but some like one a friend of mine, a very experienced trainer ans breeder, is worth its weight in pure gold. go see one in action and see, do they know what they are talking about, can they handle questions, are they training the pups or just a free for all?

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But you can go the other way with puppy classes, too. The one we took Kivi to when he was a baby was run by a trainer, but it went for an hour and they were lucky if they got a chance to interact with other puppies at all. For my bouncy social butterfly that meant I spent most of those loooong classes being expected to stand on his lead and ignore the crazies when if he'd just had a chance to meet and greet at the beginning he wouldn't have the crazies. I couldn't say how many times I claimed he needed to go outside for a toilet break in an effort to reduce all the body blocking and boredom and frustration he was experiencing. Trainer wasn't cool on removing pups that weren't having fun, either.

This time I'll be looking for one with a balance of training and play.

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One thing I can tell you for certain with the Brittany breed they are notorious lead pullers, so be very sure not to let it become a habit from the beginning if you don't want your dog to pull, never move forward if the pup is pulling (and this will take some patience), and you may not get very far from the front door some days

This is a good link - http://www.perfectpaws.com/pup7.html

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