St. Bernard

[Troy]

St. Bernard

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=180 )

Group: Group 6 (Utility)

General Appearance: There are two varieties of the St Bernard; Short-haired variety ("Stockhaar", smooth coat). Long-haired variety (Rough coat). Both varieties are of considerable size and of impressive appearance. They have a balanced, powerful, sturdy, muscular body with an impressive head and an alert facial expression. Important proportions: " Ideal relation of height at withers to length of body (measured from the point of shoulder to the point of buttocks) = 9:10. " For the ideal relation of height at withers to depth of chest see the sketch below. " The total length of the head is slightly more than one third of the height at the withers. " The relation of the depth of muzzle (measured at its root) to the length of muzzle is almost 2:1. " Length of muzzle is slightly longer than one third of the total length of the head.

Characteristics: Utilisation: Companion, watch and farm dog.

Temperament: Friendly by nature. Temperament calm to lively; watchful.

Head And Skull: Powerful, imposing and very expressive.

Cranial region:

Skull: Strong, broad when seen in profile and from the front slightly rounded. When the dog is alert, the set-on of the ears and the top of the skull form a straight line, which slopes at the sides in a gentle curve to the strongly developed high cheekbones. Forehead falling away steeply towards the muzzle. Occipital bone only moderately developed, superciliary ridges strongly developed. The frontal furrow, which starts at the base of the forehead, is distinctly developed and runs up right in the middle of the skull. The skin of the forehead forms slight wrinkles above the eyes that converge towards the frontal furrow. When the dog is at attention, they are moderately visible: otherwise they are inconspicuous.

Stop: Distinctly pronounced.

Muzzle: Of even width. Nasal bridge straight, with slight groove.

Nose: Black, broad and square. Nostrils well opened.

Lips: Edge of lips black pigmented. Flews of upper jaw strongly developed, firm and not too pendulous, forming a wide curve towards the nose. Corners of the mouth remain visible.

Eyes: Of medium size. Colour dark brown to nut-brown. Moderately deep set with a friendly expression. Natural tightness of lids desired. A small angular fold on the lower lids with the haws only slightly visible as well as a small fold on the upper lids is permitted. Eyerims completely pigmented.

Ears: Of medium size, set on high and wide. Strongly developed burrs. Flaps pliable and triangular with rounded tips. The rear edges slightly standing off and the front edges lying close to the cheeks.

Mouth: The upper and lower jaws are strong, broad and equal in length. Well developed, regular and complete scissor or pincer bite. Close fitting undershot mouth without any space between the lower and upper incisors acceptable. Absence of PM1 (premolar 1) and M3 is tolerated.

Neck: Strong and of sufficient length. Dewlap and loose skin on the neck moderately developed.

Forequarters: The forelegs are straight and parallel when seen from the front. Stands moderately broad.

Shoulders: Shoulder blades oblique, muscular and well attached to the chest wall.

Upper arm: Longer than the shoulder blade. The angle between shoulder blade and the upper arm not too blunt.

Elbow: Close fitting. Forearm: Straight, strong in bone, with lean musculature.

Pasterns: Seen from the front, vertical in prolongation of the forearms. Slightly oblique when seen from the side.

Body: The general appearance imposing, balanced, impressive and well muscled.

Withers: Well defined.

Chest: Brisket moderately deep with well sprung ribs, but not barrel shaped. Does not project below the elbow level.

Back: Broad, strong and firm. Topline straight and horizontal up to the loins.

Croup: Long and hardly sloping. Merging gently with the root of the tail.

Belly and underline: Slight tuck up towards the rear.

Hindquarters: Muscular with moderate angulation. Seen from the back the hind legs are parallel, not standing closely together.

Upper thigh: Strong, muscular and broad.

Stifle: Well angulated and turning neither in nor out.

Lower thigh: Slanting and rather long.

Hock joints: Slightly angulated and firm.

Metatarsus: Straight and parallel when seen from behind.

Feet: Broad with strong, tight and well-arched toes. Dewclaws on the hind legs are tolerated if they do not hinder the movement.

Tail: Set-on broad and strong. The tail is long and heavy. The last vertebra at least reaching to the hock joint. When in repose, the tail hangs straight down or slightly upturned in the lower third. When animated it is carried higher.

Gait/Movement: Harmonious far reaching movement with good drive from the hindquarters with the back remaining stable and firm. Front and hind feet move forward in a straight line.

Coat: Short-haired variety: Topcoat dense, smooth, close-lying and coarse. Plenty of undercoat. Thighs have slight breeches. Tail covered with dense hair.

Long-coated variety: Topcoat plain, of medium length with plenty of undercoat. Short hair on the face and ears. Hair over the haunches and the croup usually somewhat wavy. Front legs feathered. Thighs with good breeches. Bushy tail.

Colour: Primary colour is white with smaller or larger reddish-brown patches (splash-coat) up to an unbroken reddish brown mantle covering the back and flanks (mantle coat). A broken reddish-brown mantle is of equal value. A brindle reddish-brown colour is permissible. Brownish-yellow tolerated. Dark shadings on the head desirable. Slight touch of black on the body is tolerated.

Required white markings: Chest, feet, tip of tail, muzzle band, blaze and patch on the neck. Desired markings: White collar. Symmetrical dark mask.

Sizes: Height at withers:

Males: 70 cm to 90 cm (27 ½ to 35 ½ inches)

Bitches : 65 cm to 80 cm (25 ½ to 31 ½ inches)

Dogs, which exceed the maximum height, will not be penalised, provided their general appearance is balanced and their movement is correct.

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

- Lack of sexual characteristics.

- Unbalanced general appearance.

- Too short on leg in relation to size (short legged).

- Heavy folds on the head and neck.

- Muzzle too short or too long.

- Flews of the lower jaw turning outwards.

- Missing teeth other than PM1 (premolar1) and M3. Small teeth, especially incisors.

- Slightly undershot mouth.

- Light eyes.

- Eyelids too loose.

- Sway back or roach back.

- Croup higher than the withers or falling away.

- Tail carried curled on the back.

- Absence of required markings.

- Crooked or severely turned out front legs.

- Poorly angulated, open-hocked or cow-hocked hindquarters.

- Faulty movement.

- Curly coat.

- Incomplete or totally absent pigmentation on nose leather, around the nose or on the lips or the eyelids.

- Faulty primary colour e.g. reddish-brown dots or ticks in the white.

DISQUALIFYING FAULTS:

- Weak temperament or aggressiveness.

- Overshot mouth, distinctly undershot mouth.

- Wall eye.

- Ectropion, entropion.

- Solid white or reddish-brown coat (absence of the primary colour).

- Coat of any other colour.

- Height at withers below the minimum size.

Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

See Photos of the St Bernard

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

• Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  
• You do not have to answer all questions
  
• Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.
  

See Photos of the St Bernard

St Bernard Breeders

St Bernard Puppies For Sale

[Donna]

Written and Submitted by DeSaix Saint Bernards

Asking Questions:

The first thing to realise is, there are never any questions not worth asking. No question is ever too silly or too irrelevant. Primary sources of relevant infomation should be the breeder or supplier of your new St Bernard, members of breed clubs and literature about the breed from noteworthy authors. All these sources of information should be freely available to you. It is the responsiblity of the source of the information to make sure that the information given is correct and appropriate for your needs.

Discovering The Breed:

Before leaping headlong into buying a dog, especially a dog of this size that requires as much time and attention as a newborn child, it is always worthwhile doing a bit of research into the breed. Most of us have seen the Beethoven movies and whilst the saints antics were funny on the big screen, they don't seem quite so funny when they happen in real life. St Bernards both rough and smooth coat shed bucket loads of hair and do drool copious amounts both of which will find their way to your best suit and stick there. The food and veterinary bills would appear to be proportional to the size of the dog. They can be as destructive as any other breed, if not more so when not given attention as they are essentially a people and family orientated breed with an inquisitive mindset. They also make wonderful and loving companions, who will protect their family and home, if for no other reason than through their sheer size and imposition.

How Much Are They:

This is always a difficult question to answer. It really depends on where you buy your St Bernard from and whether it is a puppy, an older dog or a rescue dog. Quite often puppies from pet shops are more expensive with no health guarantees or registration papers than puppies from a registered breeder. We bought our first saint from a pet shop who was found to be very unhealthy with no registration papers and she cost $50.00 more than our registered champion who was subsequently bought from a registered reputable breeder. The cost of a puppy in Australia seems to range from about $1500.00 to $4000.00, the reasons for this range in pricing are best ascertained from the breeder/s that you are in contact with. Older dogs and rescue St Bernards are often much cheaper and can make wonderful family pets but the time you get to spend with them is obviously reduced due to the shorter life span of giant breeds.

Buying A New Puppy:

When you have decided that you really want to share your life with a wonderful St Bernard its always a good idea to seek out an honest reputable breeder who offers support to you after the sale. Breeders who grab your money, shove a puppy in your arms and shut the door in your face sadly do exist but this is the age of responsibilty and accountabilty and this behaviour does not have to be tolerated. In our experience we have found it is often better to be wary of breeders who constantly have litters available and are happy to sell you a puppy with no questions asked. Mutual screening should be engaged. Guarantee's need to be in writing and you should be supplied with a FAQ'S sheet to assist you you in raising and caring for your new addition. You should also upon request be entitled to view results from health certificates etc: of the parents. You should be able to view at least the mother of the puppies if not both the parents. If at any time there is something that you are not happy with its always better to follow your *gut* instinct and try another breeder. It may be cheaper to forget the deposit you left and spend the money again somewhere else in the long run. However, the majority of breeders are happy to assist with fraught phone calls from new owners and do have the interest of the breed at heart.

Show Or Pet Quality?:

This really depends on the individual and what the breeder has available at the time. We all strive for perfect dogs and some of us think we already have them but in truth all dogs have their faults. The perfect dog has yet to be bred and the decision the breeder makes about pet and show quality usually depends on the dogs level and type of deviation away from the breed standard. Usually the show potential puppies are kept by the breeder or sold to other breeders for future use, so that those positive traits are in theory maintained and the puppies deemed not show potential are usually sold as pets. Show or pet potential puppies don't differ in their ability to make wonderful companions but they can vary in price and appearance and these are factors to be considered in the scheme of things. No matter what is paid, you as a consumer are entitled to a healthy puppy that will fulfill the purpose for which it was purchased. Uniformity in a quality, healthy litter is a often a good sign as it likely demonstrates a well planned and successful breeding programme.

What About Contracts?:

Contracts appear to be gaining momentum and popularity with breeders, usually with the intention of protecting the dog being sold and ultimately the breed. Contracts should be fair to both parties and provide some quid pro quo for the prospective owners. Breeders cannot, under the law contract their way out of their responsibilties should a problem occur, especially in regard to health issues, regardless of what contract you may have signed. Whether certain aspects of contracts are legally enforcible remains to be seen as few test cases have been tried but they are, as are so many other things, a useful tool if utilised appropriately. If you are not comfortable with a contract then don't sign one, they are not mandatory and there are still breeders who prefer not to use them.

Buying An Older Dog:

Older dogs can usually be obtained through a newspaper, a friend may have one they cannot keep and sometimes breeders may decide to rehome an older dog of theirs or know of one that needs a home. Older dogs are generally cheaper than buying a puppy but it's always important to establish the reason why the dog is being rehomed. It may be the case that the owners are not able to keep the dog or the dog has a temperament problem and this need to be established before the dog is introduced into your home. The lifespan of this breed is sadly only about 8 - 10 years and this needs to be a considering factor also. Prices for older dogs do vary and there is no right price for one. Sometimes they are even offered free to a good home.

Obtaining A Rescue Dog:

Rescue St Bernards can often be obtained by contacting local or remote breed clubs depending on how far you are prepared to travel. There are usually associated costs with them such as re-embursement of vet fees or sterilization costs that are paid to the club providing the dog. There may be proviso's involved esp: if you are not able to keep the dog for the rest of its natural life ie: the club may want the dog back. Or you may want to offer your home as a foster home for rescued saints, rescue is not for the faint hearted and often seems to have little or no perceived reward. A myth that seems to abound is that rescues are all bred by back yard operations. This simply is not true, the level and source of rescue cases is the reflection of a direct causal relationship between the activities of breeders registered or otherwise and public awareness. Rescues often make wonderful pets esp: if their previous home did not cater for its need appropriately. We have had many rescues at our home throughout the last five and a half years and have found the majority to be a delight to have around.

Care Requirements:

A St Bernard's care requirements are fundamentally no different to any other domestic animal that we choose to take into our home and by doing so make a commitment to care for it appropriately. They require scheduled vaccinations, to be kept free of internal and external parasites, regularly bathed and groomed including nail and ear care, some good food, a warm dry bed, oodles of affection and prompt veterinary treatment should the need arise. Whether your St Bernard is to be an indoor or outdoor dog is a matter of personal choice and circumstances. Extra observation is required to ensure the puppy does not sustain injuries during the rapid growth phases of its life.

Diet And Exercise:

The persons best equipped to advise you in regard to diet are your chosen veterinarian +/or the breeder or source of your dog. There are many theories as to the best diet for a St Bernard and we have found one that suits us but it may not suit others. Budget is a factor to be considered. It is often better to feed a St Bernard twice a day instead of once. Due to their relatively short digestive tract the often cannot absorb enough nutrients from one meal to sustain their metabolic requirements, they also seem to prefer warmed meals. Supplements to the diet is another area of hot debate but if the diet is balanced, supplements should not be necessary. It is safer to refrain from exercising the puppy until over the age of nine months as damage to rapid growing bones and fragile joints can be sustained with lifelong consequences. Free play within the confines of the garden is normally enough for a large puppy that tires quickly until that age.

Training Your Saint:

St Bernard's are generally intelligent, relatively easy to train and respond well to kindness and praise. Its always better to not allow undesirable habits develop in the puppy that you don't wish to have present in the adult. Most area's have local training clubs that can be attended if you are that way inclined and mixing your saint with other dogs is good from a socialisation perspective but basic good manners can be taught in the home with time, patience and kindness. Wearing a collar and lead training can commence as soon as the puppy is settled in his new home. We have found that leaving a collar on when its not in use can put the puppy at risk of strangling if the collar should get hooked up on something whilst left unattended.

Breeding: The Facts:

This is another area of hot debate and certain myths compell the need to have then dispelled. The St Bernard breed is considered to be low popularity, high dumpage which in itself suggests that indiscriminate breeding should be actively discouraged. Bitches do not need one litter *to settle them down* if there is a behaviour problem in the dog, breeding is not going to cure it. Males do not need to be bred and indeed may develop undesirable territoral behaviour after being bred. St Bernards bought as pets should be just that, a family pet. Only dogs that are of such a standard to be worthy of breeding should be bred. Breeding is expensive, time consuming, offers no finanacial gains if conducted in an ethical and moral manner and puts the bitch at risk if something should go wrong, as it often does with giant breeds. Also this breed is plagued with numerous genetic health problems and all breeders or pet owners that choose to breed their pets or registered stock are at risk of being sued (a basic consumer right to recompense) if the dog sold is genetically unsound. Breeding is, as is rescue ...... not for the faint hearted.

Sterilization: The Facts:

Scientific research has demonstrated that spay or neutering your dog exerts comparably negligable detrimental effects to its health or well being as opposed to leaving a dog intact. Neutering a male does not make it any less *male* and often reduces roaming and *marking* behaviours that can be exhibited after sexual maturation. Bitches after each successive season increase their risk of developing mammary tumours that are of rapid onset and high lethality up to 1:4 by the age of three as well as the risk of other reproductive disorders such as pyometra that can kill with little or no warning if it goes undiagnosed. Another factor to consider is that pounds across the globe are crammed full of the results of unwanted or unplanned canine pregnancies whose fate most of us do not wish to spare a thought about but are sadly a fact of life.

Managing Aggression:

Aggressive behaviour whilst objectionable and not to be tolerated is the result of a problem within the dog itself or it environment. It is unwise to attack train a giant breed for obvious reasons and St Bernard's are certainly no exception. Aggression can be the result of genetics, poor rearing skills or it may have an intrinsic source such as a space occupying lesion (tumour) to any part of the brain. Epilepsy may also invoke aggression or antisocial behavour during the *aura* phase of an attack. It is essential that alpha status remains with the owner for all parties concerned. There are several forms of aggression and the cause needs to be established through an animal behaviourist and a veterinarian. Only then, can a suitable course of action to combat the behaviour be established.

Rehoming Your Saint:

No one usually invests their heart and wallet so heavily into something with the intention of changing their mind but also no one can see into the future and sometimes well thought out plans go awry. If you need to rehome your saint for whatever reason there are steps that can be taken to ensure your friend's transition from one lifestyle and family to another can be made as painless as possible. The breeder may insist that the dog is returned to them, as we do to protect the dog's future interests or they maybe able to give you the name of someone waiting for an older dog that will give it a loving home. Breed clubs may be able to help out but in the worst case scenario its up to you to make sure the dog's new home is suitable for its subsequent health and welfare. Feelings of failure and grief usually accompany such a hard decision but careful placement of the dog will help to alleviate these.

Saying Goodbye:

As with all things, joy and sadness seem to be inorexably intertwined. When the time comes for an old faithful to cross that rainbow bridge there are certain things that you can do to make this transition more gentle for all concerned. It is always nicer for the vet to come to the home rather than take your beloved friend to the clinic full of strange noises and unknown people, this is the least that can be done for all the years of pleasure that has been gained from your companion. It is quite often the case as we slip into the doctor / patient routine that we forget that we can request this certain favour from the veterinarian who will or at least should indulge this wish. Of course the best that can be hoped for is that your St Bernard will live a long and happy life and pass from this world to the next with a minimum of fuss. Also services are now available whereby ashes can be kept to remind you that your favourite friend is never really far away.

Edited July 25, 2009 by Donna

[alangrove]

Hi Donna,

Just a question regarding showing.

Do you know if anyone has any footage, video,s on showing a Saint Bernard.

As I would be very interested to brush up on our showing skills and it would be a great help to be able to see one in gait, and correct postion on the stack a 360 degree veiw of the dog on the stack.

We dont have that many Saints to study in the ring in North QLD and as we know all breeds are very differnt, as you can only learn so much.

Photo,s only help to a certain degree!

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Mechelle

[Sagittarian]

Hi Mechelle,

I know you didn't direct your question to me, however I do have some suggestions.

First point of call is the breeder of your dog/s. If they show, they may very well have footage of shows that will give you a really good idea of stacking, gaiting etc. Or even maybe their own footage of practice sessions.

When I started out, I would spend the day at shows just watching other breeds. That was my biggest learning curve - I remember a class of dobe's that were so beautifully handled that I enjoyed every minute of it. Look out for the best presented and handled dogs you can find, and spend some time watching. If you really like the way a handler works, talk to them. Most people are happy to give a newer exhibitor a few moments to help.

And although I agree that all breeds are different, the fundamentals of showing are all the same. If you have a video camera, invest some time into taping yourself showing (or practicing) and watch it back. That is a huge help as you'll see little things from the camera's view that you can't see when you handle.

There are many videos and dvd's of shows that have Saints in - from years ago to present. If you have trouble sourcing anything, feel free to pm me and I'm see if I can find something.

Phillipa

[raz]

Hey Sags - can you answer point 2 for me please? Thanks hon.

[Parkeyre]

Is there a maximum height allowed for the Saint Bernard?

[Wazzat Xolo]

Donna

On the ABC Catalyst program the vet ( I think it was him) stated in the UK the SB has a life span av of 4.9 years is this true? Whats the average in Australia, it seemed awfully short

Thanks

J

[I love dribbly dogs]

I understand that generally the average would be about 8 yrs depending on the dog.

[Parkeyre]

Is there a maximum height allowed for the Saint Bernard?

:D

[I love dribbly dogs]

From the breed standard:

Size

Height at withers:

Males: 70 cm to 90 cm (27 ½ to 35 ½ inches)

Bitches : 65 cm to 80 cm (25 ½ to 31 ½ inches)

Dogs, which exceed the maximum height, will not be penalised, provided their general appearance is balanced and their movement is correct.

[Donna]

Most serious breed enthusiasts will have a collection of video's or DVD's of shows, we certainly have a large collection here :-) There are breed fanciers in Q/land that would have large collections.

Average life span for a saint in our experience is 8-10yrs if no health issues, certainly they also live longer than that also

Donna

[Donna]

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

We have been involved with this breed for 17 years now, keen breed enthusiasts, breed promotion, breed rescue, active against puppy farmers, exhibiting and breeding

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

Hospice records indicate descended from the mollosser mastiff which were Napoleons war dogs originally, used for carting also. Developed in the swiss alps for rescue due to keen sense of hearing and smell

3. How common is it in Australia?

It is a low popularity high dumpage breed due to size as an adult and smaller back gardens

4. What is the average lifespan?

8-10 years if no health problems, can live longer

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

Calm to lively, watchful, generally good with children, will guard family

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

Thats up to the individual dog, most are lazy and sleep a lot, some like to run for miles

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

Yes providing the breeder has supplied all the right information to begin with

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Yes because they sleep for long periods throughout their lives

9. How much grooming is required?

More grooming for rough coats than smooth, no specialised grooming required

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

Can be as puppies due to their size, usually settle at about 18 months of age and can be destructive

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

HD, Elbow Arthrosis, Entropion/Ectropion, Epilepsy, Hypothyroidism, DCM, Osteosarcoma, Gastric Torsion - mostly hereditary and at least familial

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

A strong supportive ongoing relationship between breeder and new owner is of vital importance. Visit the home of the parents of the puppy, ask for screening records, establish your rights under consumer law, ask any questions that come to mind, no question is too stupid, make sure your breeder has a sound reputation don't just take their word for it!!! Beware of saint puppy farmers, yes they do exist in Australia unfortunately but are small in number. Genuine ethical breeders only have puppies to improve the breed, not to meet a waiting list. Don't buy your saint puppy from a pet shop or from any one that is not a member of their conrolling canine state body. It often pays to wait to get your puppy from a reputable breeder, most reputable breeders do not have puppies ready when you "want" one. Beware of those continually advertising litters!! If you have any doubts look elsewhere.

Edited January 13, 2010 by Donna