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Obedience Rules


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Don't think there is one Midol - the old rules said the lead must be held in the left hand, slack may be taken up with the right hand, I'm not sure if its changed. What it comes down to is that the lead must be long enough to always ensure that there is slack in the lead, but not so long that the lead gets in the way. Most handlers use one about 3-4 feet long (depends also on the size of the dog).

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Ahhhk, I thought maybe I had just managed to miss a leash size when I read it.

Might consider entering and doing some work with Gizmo. I assume obedience trials are fairly organised and no off leash dogs running around getting in your dogs face?

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the old rules said the lead must be held in the left hand, slack may be taken up with the right hand...

That's interesting. Wonder if it is still a current rule. I'm so used to holding my lead with my right hand - it is my 'strength' arm after all. Anyone know if there is or was a reason behind that rule?

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This from the current rules

Holding the Lead:

The lead will be held in the left or right hand. Slack may be taken up in the other hand.

Where the hand holding the lead is removed from the lead to give a signal, it must be

returned to the lead immediately such a signal is given.

Handlers must use sufficient length of lead to give freedom of movement and show a

distinct loop at all times.

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Ahhhk, I thought maybe I had just managed to miss a leash size when I read it.

Might consider entering and doing some work with Gizmo. I assume obedience trials are fairly organised and no off leash dogs running around getting in your dogs face?

Yes and no. During your go in the ring it is very unlikely to have another dog approach yours - it would only happen if one got loose. The higher level dogs that are working off-leash should be trained well enough not to approach.

However, during the groups stays, especially in the lower levels you can get dogs that get up and sniff or otherwise interact with the other dogs in the stay. If your dog is going to attack in this kind of situation then don't go.

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I assume obedience trials are fairly organised and no off leash dogs running around getting in your dogs face?

Only dogs to be off-leash are those working at the time. Something to bear in mind is that there is usually more than one ring working at a time, and some dogs do make a break for it and zoom out of the ring and not all handlers can get them back right away. Just because it's an obedience trial, doesn't mean all the dogs are completely compliant. Like most things in life it's not totally risk free but if you have Gizmo in a crate when he's not working you should be fine.

Another thing to bear in mind re "getting in your dog's face" is proofing stays. You can't pick what dog you line up next to, so as much as you might like to put your dog next to a sensible older bitch with good manners, he may have to hold a stay near a young entire male Dobe projecting "I am GOD!" at him.

Edited to fix html and spellinks :cool:

Edited by anita
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I assume obedience trials are fairly organised and no off leash dogs running around getting in your dogs face?

Only dogs to be off-leash are those working at the time. Something to bear in mind is that there is usually more than one ring working at a time, and some dogs do make a break for it and zoom out of the ring and not all handlers can get them back right away. Just because it's an obedience trial, doesn't mean all the dogs are completely compliant. Like most things in life it's not totally risk free but if you have Gizmo in a crate when he's not working you should be fine.

Another thing to bear in mind re "getting in your dog's face" is proofing stays. You can't pick what dog you line up next to, so as much as you might like to put your dog next to a sensible older bitch with good manners, he may have to hold a stay near a young entire male Dobe projecting "I am GOD!" at him.

Edited to fix html and spellinks :cool:

I definitely won't enter him if I think he is a risk to another dogs safety. I've only just started his rehabilitation process so he might come right. His aggression isn't extreme at all so I'm not too worried either.

His stays are very well proofed, he'll very, very rarely break them and when he does it's only because he anticipates a recall command. I haven't worked with him in a multi dog environment though so I might have to take him along to the obedience club and see how he goes there.

ML, nah he won't do anything if a dog sniffs him. But if a dog jumps on his head then he may resort to aggression, but like I said I am working on it and if I feel he is a risk to other dogs he won't compete. So far he hasn't with any dogs outside of our home (and dogs have rushed us on the street), but when I introduced Montu to him Montu did it and Gizmo wasn't happy.

Edited by Just Midol
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Another thing to bear in mind re "getting in your dog's face" is proofing stays. You can't pick what dog you line up next to, so as much as you might like to put your dog next to a sensible older bitch with good manners, he may have to hold a stay near a young entire male Dobe projecting "I am GOD!" at him.

:) Dobes don't that! Nice gentle souls they are at all times ;) at least mine was with us, not so keen on other people and dogs.

Yes that can be one of the downfalls of trialling, badly thrown dumbells coming into your ring, followed by an enthusiastic dog right in your path when doing a heeling pattern.

I haven't worked with him in a multi dog environment though so I might have to take him along to the obedience club and see how he goes there.

I'm guessing you will probably see a huge difference in him. Going to an obedience club just to get him used to working around other dogs a few times is a good idea, as long as he doesn't have any bad experiences with other dogs, something you will have to watch out for without stressing about it.

cheers

M-J

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Yeah, I'll take him along to the trialing night and just sit with him at a distance to see how he responds. I know dogs won't be a distraction for his training but getting him used to being near other dogs might be a good idea. Even if I just take him every time I go and crate him for the two-three hours.

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take him every time I go and crate him for the two-three hours.

Crating is a good idea initially, I would still test him work wise after you have got him used to being around other dogs, if the dog hasn't experienced working in that type of environment it can be very distracting and in the trial ring the work standard generally diminishes compared to training. Having said this I have't seen him work so I could be wrong.

cheers

M-J

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