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Obedience Trial Ring Craft - Tips


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Relax and have fun - both you and your dog.

The biggest problem I see when I am stewarding is that handlers lose faith in their training and dog the moment they walk into the ring.

If you have done your practice and know you and your dog can do the exercises keep that faith when you go in the ring. :swear:

Practice whole heeling patterns without your dog. Even better if you can get someone to be the "judge" and talk you through different patterns.

If you make a mistake in the heel pattern (turn left instead of right etc) just keep going the Judge will fix it.

Remember that no matter what happens in the ring reward your dog when you finish.

Listen to what the Judge is saying and do exactly what they ask.

Don't decide you are bombing out and use your time in the ring as a training session. I've seen someone excused from the ring for doing this - the Judge was extremely pissed off.

Bear.

Edited by FaxonandBear
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......Use an appropriate lead -

I would like a $1 for everybody who walked into the CCD training ring holding a horse sized lead with a jack russell or poodle on the end of it. :swear:

Can I ask the "gurus" a question on leads, as this issomething that I've been pondering recently, and thinking that my "normal" lead is too long, since I normally work with part of it folded up. How do I choose a lead that is the right length & width?

I have a mutt, who is probably about labrador size and comes to just about my knee in height (I'm about 5'10"). My current lead is 5ft, but I've been thinking about changing to a 4ft lead, but the only ones I can find are narrower than what I'm using. My current lead is 19mm, and I like the feel of it in my hand. Switching to a shorter lead would probably mean going to a 15mm lead - which I don't like, but guess I would get used to.

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Not sure but I use a 120cm x 12 mm lead on my girls in the ring. Now my older one is in UD its only for the purpose of walking in to the ring. I probably won't bother with CCD with my younger one either. I found it an suitable length though and it wasn't too bulky. It was just one of those KraMar brand ones with a small clip. Don't like bulky clips even on a medium size dog.

Really the lead is only there because you have to so I would go with one that is small enough but not to light that it blows all over the place.

Even a puppy weight lead would be suitable.

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Thought of two more that I noticed a lot of people had trouble with at the last trial.

Don't remove your lead until the Judge tells you to.

Make sure you can get from exercise finished after stand for exam to the start of the recall exercise off lead in CCD.

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Good question Squeak :swear:

Things you need to consider when trying to find a suitable lead ......

Can you comfortably hold it - or do you have to scrunch it up (this indicates it is too long)

Is there a loop in the lead when heeling - if not then it indicates that it is too short (or the dog is not in heel position) :rofl:

Does it get in the dogs way when you are returning from the SFE - in which case it might be too wide.

Will it get blown around in the wind - in which case it might be too light.

Is the lead too heavy for the size of the dog - see previous post about horse lead..... :cool:

What do I use - given the choice, none - since 99% of training is done off lead but -

I match my collar, lead and dog colour ( :rofl: being anal here - looking good is part of the overall picture) :)

My dogs are labrador size (apart from Lexi) I prefer a shorter lead which I can hold in my left hand only leaving my right hand free to give down signals and my left hand can still give my stand signal because the lead is not scrunched up.

I also prefer a shorter lead because when you go to the end of your lead for the SFE you are at an advantage because you are closer to your dog than people with a longer lead. Is this cheating - NOPE its called ringcraft!

I also prefer a thinner lead which I find lighter and easier to maneuver over the dogs head when returning to them.

Off the top of my head - they would be about 90cm long and about 10mm wide - but I will check them when I get home.

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Make sure you can get from exercise finished after stand for exam to the start of the recall exercise off lead in CCD.

Isn't SFE on-lead in CCD? Or did you mean get from the start peg to the start of the recall off-lead?

The end of SFE, sometimes the judge will get you to remove your lead and walk towards the end of the ring to take up position for the recall.

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SMILE - it doesn't have to be a beauty pageant winnng one but a quiet smile will relax your neck and shoulders and convey positive body language to your dog.

No matter what happens, make sure that your dog's experiences in the ring (and afterwards) are positive ones. It's better to stop, reward your dog and blow the trial than spiral down into a situation where your dog is stressed and uncomfortable.

Oh and have three decent paces - with normal pace brisk and generally faster than you'd walk normally. A funerial 'normal' pace gives you nowhere to go with slow pace and makes your dog wonder what the hell is wrong with you.

Oh, and from a steward's pet hate perspective. The judge is there to judge you, not train you. Please don't give lengthy explanations as to what's going wrong or expect coaching in the ring. The judge has plenty of dogs to get through usually and people don't want to be there at midnight. If you want feedback, get someone to watch your or better still, videotape you. Leave the ring promptly on completion of your trial so that the next person can get going.

Edited by poodlefan
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Make sure you can get from exercise finished after stand for exam to the start of the recall exercise off lead in CCD.

Isn't SFE on-lead in CCD? Or did you mean get from the start peg to the start of the recall off-lead?

The end of SFE, sometimes the judge will get you to remove your lead and walk towards the end of the ring to take up position for the recall.

Thanks for that - it is not something that I have seen in the trials that I've been at, but definitely good to know :laugh:

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I know that this is slightly OT, but hope that people don't mind me asking here, since we seem to have a thread gathering many experienced triallers.

I do not teach my dog a stay command or signal - they are expected to maintain the position asked until their release word. Am I likely to get "pinged" for not using a stay command during the SFE or recall exercises?

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I know that this is slightly OT, but hope that people don't mind me asking here, since we seem to have a thread gathering many experienced triallers.

I do not teach my dog a stay command or signal - they are expected to maintain the position asked until their release word. Am I likely to get "pinged" for not using a stay command during the SFE or recall exercises?

Nope, but expect to get asked why you didn't use a stay command. :laugh:

Bear.

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Oh, and from a steward's pet hate perspective. The judge is there to judge you, not train you. Please don't give lengthy explanations as to what's going wrong or expect coaching in the ring. The judge has plenty of dogs to get through usually and people don't want to be there at midnight. If you want feedback, get someone to watch your or better still, videotape you. Leave the ring promptly on completion of your trial so that the next person can get going.

:laugh::rofl: :rofl:

As far as the lead goes read the rules and use the shortest you can.

Bear.

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I know that this is slightly OT, but hope that people don't mind me asking here, since we seem to have a thread gathering many experienced triallers.

I do not teach my dog a stay command or signal - they are expected to maintain the position asked until their release word. Am I likely to get "pinged" for not using a stay command during the SFE or recall exercises?

squeak - it's been some time since I've trialled but my 2 cents worth is that I teach the exercise the same as you, but why not add in an extra command as back up? I use stay or wait depending on whether the dog is required to sit/stand/drop rock solid or is to expect another command - it seems to give Zig an extra edge of confidence, particularly in the stay exercises.

Good question about the lead BTW - looks like I'm going shopping......again!!!! :laugh:

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I know that this is slightly OT, but hope that people don't mind me asking here, since we seem to have a thread gathering many experienced triallers.

I do not teach my dog a stay command or signal - they are expected to maintain the position asked until their release word. Am I likely to get "pinged" for not using a stay command during the SFE or recall exercises?

Nope, but expect to get asked why you didn't use a stay command. :laugh:

Bear.

By the judge or other triallers?

Edited by squeak
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I know that this is slightly OT, but hope that people don't mind me asking here, since we seem to have a thread gathering many experienced triallers.

I do not teach my dog a stay command or signal - they are expected to maintain the position asked until their release word. Am I likely to get "pinged" for not using a stay command during the SFE or recall exercises?

squeak - it's been some time since I've trialled but my 2 cents worth is that I teach the exercise the same as you, but why not add in an extra command as back up? I use stay or wait depending on whether the dog is required to sit/stand/drop rock solid or is to expect another command - it seems to give Zig an extra edge of confidence, particularly in the stay exercises.

Ummm... because I am stubborn???!!! :laugh: I have an informal wait command for when we are walking and get to roads and want them to wait for me to catch up (they are allowed to walk ahead of me). I am always worried about them trying to target my hand if I use a stay signal. I am also toying with the idea of using "stay" as my "leave it" command for food refusal, if we get that far in our trialling - still very undecided on that one, but guess I want to have the option.

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