Ceramic Clipper Blades ?

[Christina]

Has anyone tried these http://vetnpetdirect.com.au/product.php?pr...=341&page=1

I phoned to enquire about them & decided to stick with the Osters & they have sent me the wrong one. Feedback from any users appreciated, I may keep it.

They also have to be mailed to Sydney for sharpening so cost ? If anyone knows.

[Andisa]

Ah - ceramic blades...

I hate them..

They were great until they needed to be sharpened. I have taken them in to be done several times and they have never been any good since.

I go to the same bloke that has been doing them for ever. He tells me often how good they are, a friend who clips horses hates them too. My clipper bloke has offered to replace them with normal blades before, I have tried to give them a reasonable go, might swap them yet. I purchased a #7 to begin with, loved it - heaps. Bought #5, #4, and #10 after wards and now hate all of them. They just sit in the container, when I am getting low on sharp blades I will give them go now and them, makes no difference on the breed that I try them on, they are useless for me. They have been sharpened and I have wondered if they could be too sharp or just not done right. Don't know - just hate them.

My clippers are Wahl km2 so they should be fine with the blades.

It's up to you what you do, maybe someone will come in and rave about how good they are, hope someone does - it's been suggested that I am doing something wrong.

Apart from using as per instructions - don't know what I am not doing right...

Oh and the cost was the same but not many people who sharpen blades do them right or have the correct equipment. I know the bloke I go to is great so I am not blaming him at all - just the blades.

[jemappelle]

I don't like mine either. With the single speed clippers they are useless and with the double speed they do get through the coat but not as well as the "normal" blades.

[nicestman77]

Ah - ceramic blades...

I hate them..

They were great until they needed to be sharpened. I have taken them in to be done several times and they have never been any good since.

I go to the same bloke that has been doing them for ever. He tells me often how good they are, a friend who clips horses hates them too. My clipper bloke has offered to replace them with normal blades before, I have tried to give them a reasonable go, might swap them yet. I purchased a #7 to begin with, loved it - heaps. Bought #5, #4, and #10 after wards and now hate all of them. They just sit in the container, when I am getting low on sharp blades I will give them go now and them, makes no difference on the breed that I try them on, they are useless for me. They have been sharpened and I have wondered if they could be too sharp or just not done right. Don't know - just hate them.

My clippers are Wahl km2 so they should be fine with the blades.

It's up to you what you do, maybe someone will come in and rave about how good they are, hope someone does - it's been suggested that I am doing something wrong.

Apart from using as per instructions - don't know what I am not doing right...

Oh and the cost was the same but not many people who sharpen blades do them right or have the correct equipment. I know the bloke I go to is great so I am not blaming him at all - just the blades.

I couldn't help noticing that some are having trouble with sharpening of your ceramic blades.

It is better if you that have them, get them sharpened properly, and useing them as you get more for your dollar, to sharpen them properly, you do need a $4000 machine, most sharpeners that don't have the equipment try to get the ceramic top cutter off your blades so they don't have to deal with them anymore, they are ducking and diving, it is the cheats way out of the situation, go to the first link below, this is a top cutter being sharpened.

Ceramic blades new, are not sharpened properly, I can tell you that from experience, they do need to go to someone who has one of the special machines.

The ceramic blade you have just watched being sharpened is featured in this video below, and used on the rump of a small Cairne Terrier.

You are welcome to ask me any questions you like, I like to help.nicestman77.

[Dogsfevr]

Hate them even when sharpened properly .Never work & too much stuffing around to pursue them

[schnauzer]

I love my ceramic blades. They give a better finish and keep my blade cool for longer.

They are sharpened by Nicestman who owes me a coffee and a lamington.

[becks]

They used to be easily available over here, now I never see them on the display stands at the shows. I think that must say something about the popularity of these blades.

I've just bought some new blades, cryogen-X which claim to be the coolest blades ever. Mine don't get that hot to test that claim though!

[nicestman77]

Hate them even when sharpened properly .Never work & too much stuffing around to pursue them

Ok DOL members, lets do something good for charity, and or DOL and yourself.

I will sharpen FREE 1 ceramic clipper blade (test) for any person who has tried to use them, and has been disappointed, if you have 1 unsharpened sitting around do nothing in the draw/box.

All you have to do is join/ed DOL VIP discount card club http://www.dogzonline.com.au/vip/ where you will benefit, and so does this great forum (DOL), and get great discounts from other traders, or donate a can/packet of dog food to your local doggie charity or both. Your choice.

Then post 1 ceramic blade to me, and I will sharpen it for you free,(I leave myself open here ah!) if you would like to take up this offer, go to my profile for the address details.

Email me first I can tell you how to post the blade for a $1.10 stamp only, Ha! Lets do some good for once, and give it ago.

There are a couple of factors why any blade is getting hot, it is friction, where the tension is to tight or the need for oil, and the speed of the clipper, plus the ambient temp on the day.

Ceramic material is a finer material which if machined correctly has much less friction than carbon steel, but sharpening is paramount for ceramic blades, because they don't wear in like steel blades do, ceramic's are to hard to wear-in. Which is a good, and bad thing.

Ceramic blades will crush quarts/sand were as steel will dent, which makes ceramic a better options if you get them working, they last much longer.

There is a material that is being developed in Korea now that won't need sharpening, keep an eye out for this one.

So it is important to get ceramics sharp as finely as possible, with-out chips on the edges of the tynes(teeth)

Oiling is very important, the sprays cool your metal on the blades to quickly which turn the molecules in the metal sideways, and tend to make the tynes brittle, then once the blade gets thin from to much machining (old blade), the tynes tend to snap off very quickly if used on a clipper that revs high, it is called fatigue.

It is important if you use sprays to cool, oil after before proceeding to cut again, the sprays only cools, it doesn't lube as good as singer sewing machine oil does.

Try to find out why your blades are getting hot, blades should only get warm to touch after 5 minutes of running.

It is best to oil down inside where the lever goes, no one ever does it, but that it is the best place because the oil feeds in from the back of the tynes, if you put the oil on the front of the tynes the first bit of fur cut the oil is gone, so it pays to stop the clipper pull the blade down, and put a few drops inside like in the pix below, and don't forget oil tip of the the lever it causes friction as well.

=========================================================

HOW TO OIL & CARE YOUR CLIPPER BLADES!

Thank you for wanting to know how to look after your equipment & blades.

Below you will see a picture of a clipper blade, and the areas that is important to oil, where you see the YELLOW dots . only use a small drop of oil as it will end up in the next lot of fur it encounters, rememeber after you oil, let the clipper run for at least 5 seconds before you try to cut again, to let the oil to relocate all over the blade, and the blade to settle in, the main oiling has to oil from behind the tynes, not from the front of them.

Also it is important to put a drop of oil onto the tip of the lever that moves the top cutter.

If you oil correctly with Singer Sewing Machine Oil ONLY, it will soak into the pores of the metal, and when the blade gets warm/hot, the oil thins & seeps back into play , hence lubricating the moving parts.(keeping things cool) You can buy "Singer Sewing Machine Oil" at any Woolworths for $2.00 for 100 mls in the haberdashery section where the scissors are sold. DON'T BUY HANDY OIL!

TRY NOT TO USE THE OTHER COOLING AGENTS ON THE MARKET AS THE SINGER SEWING MACHINE OIL WILL DO THE SAME JOB FOR VERY LITTLE MONEY IF NOT BETTER.

If your blades goes FRIZZY in the coat after you get them back from the sharpener, it means that the tension is to tight(hot blades), or not tight enough (fur between the blades), if this is the case email me , and I will show you how to try to fix it yourself, the blade maybe sharp, but not set correctly, you yourself can do this with my FREE help.nicestman77.

[nicestman77]

I love my ceramic blades. They give a better finish and keep my blade cool for longer.

They are sharpened by Nicestman who owes me a coffee and a lamington.

Hi schnauzer, coffee and saltana cake is on, after the last listing I need a fix(coffee) I could have gone on & on. I dream of blades.

If ever you are down this way please do pop-in, and bring your kids(doggies)

Let me know will get the "minister for finance"(wife) to make some Lamingtons, she has a new recipe(lots of chocolate) with strawberry jam in them.nicestman77.

[nicestman77]

They used to be easily available over here, now I never see them on the display stands at the shows. I think that must say something about the popularity of these blades.

I've just bought some new blades, cryogen-X which claim to be the coolest blades ever. Mine don't get that hot to test that claim though!

Oster Cryogen-X blades are ordinary blade material, only they are cooled down to a very very low temp(freezing) when manufactured after forging, this makes the metal a high tensile material(harder) it is important that you use someone in the UK that sharpens properly, because a back yarder wouldn't sharpen them enough, not knowing how hard they are, Oster Cryogen-X blades takes longer on the machine than other blades, if not sharpened enough you don't get that crisp cut because they are still blunt, you are lucky you have a guy called peasridge.co.UK he seems to be knowledgeable, I hope this helps.nicestman77.