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Need Some Help With Healing


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I would really like to get back into trialing hopefully next year ( only need one more pass in novice ) but the one thing that has really held us back is the healing, Toby is really board and uninterested and quckily loses focus and starts lagging, I made the mistake by going to classes where they did the same old boreing thing. What I would really like is for Toby to be glued to my side and focusing on me and above else enjoying it.

How can I get this? Is it possiable or am I asking to much of him?

Edited by whitka
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There should be plenty of old threads on this subject, but this is my prefered way to teach it (This week, ...........anyway!) (always evolving lol)

Step 1) Don't practice block style heeling (heeling patterns)

2) Find what provides drive to your dog, and take time out to practice building it to a high level.

3) Make sure that step 2 has been achieved, if not...... start again.

4) Use that drive to build focus, and again.... don't move on till your dog can hold it for a long period statically at first. (at least a couple of minutes)

5) Begin to reteach correct heel postion using "find heel" games, using your new found motivation. When dog can find it regulary with vigour, start moving off very slowly, demanding your new found focus, and building on it.

Move only in either straight lines or large circles, with no additional commands like sit, drop etc.

When you have all of this up to this point, use normal and fast pace. Demand unbroken focus ALL OF THE TIME.

You can use the word "watch" to regain focus (mark regained focus and reward) and "heel" for a lapse of position (mark and reward regained position) If you are regulary losing position or focus........BUILD MORE DRIVE

6) Teach a "one way focus" (dog using full focus, while you look ahead) statically at first, then on the move. (use a spotter, or your peripheral vision). Demand full focus like before.

7) Start to teach your dog turns. (I teach right turn statically). I start by firstly using your one way focus to cue the dog by turning my head to the right, commanding heel, then pivoting 90 degrees to the right. (mark and reward/release).Your dog will soon work out the head turn is the cue, and will turn with you, holding position. Encourage this by marking as early as possible with his initial movement. Make a game of it, moving faster and faster.

Teach the left pivot the same way. This requires a substantial movement from the rear end of the dog, so be patient, and start off using a less obtuse angle for the pivot, and build it.

Test the cue by looking left, but dont move. If he starts to shuffle out of the way, he has it.

8) Practice right and left about turns off a few steps ,demanding focus and position all the time. Make sure the dog remains motivated throughout, particulary mid turn. Lure mid turn, reward/release directly after turn completion if position held. Keep it a fun game.

When you start to put it all together, you should have the feeling that the dog is almost backing into the left hand turns with his rear, and shoulder glued to you on the rights.

By looking towards the direction that you are turning, a split second before you do, will always let your dog know where he is heading.

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There are a number of ways to build drive.

Some of the things I use for promoting food drive

Fasting, and making your dog watch another eat while on a tie out, using a release to a food target, rather than rewarding from the hand aso adds an extra element of excitement, not using the food lure to reward with, using extra yummy food for reward, (or/and) using full meal broken into parts for release, rather than full meal sitting, using marker word or click, coupled with release word, feeding once a day for non puppies, talking it up (upon release), experiment for higher value foods, maintaining drive via feedback to the dog mid exercise,

keeping the training short and sharp, playing the two food game.

For prey drive building, K9force covers drive building in his thread, and also the Balabanov dvds cover it in detail. The Balabanov method which I use, involves a base game in which the dog only gets drive satisfaction if showing maximum effort to catch tuggie. The "out" is used in a motivational way to restart game, building an anticipation.

Initially, it helps greatly to promote chase games with them as puppies with toys or balls, and continue to build the interest using the drive methods. Not all dogs are successfully trained this way if they have no chase/catch inclination. I have one of each type of dog.

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What does your dog like Luke?

Sniffing the ground :p

He likes food (chicken breast and steak mostly).

I can also get him revved up with tug - but it takes about 30s of tugging to get him eager and excited.

He's more interested in the environment (mostly sniffing, other dogs, other people) than I'd like him to be. He's not one of those BCs that can stare at their owners for hours on end just hoping for a 2s tug or a chase of a ball!

BTW - he's only 7mo - I think he's going through a stage :coffee:

I must make time to watch the Balabanov DVDs.

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What does your dog like Luke?

Sniffing the ground :p

He likes food (chicken breast and steak mostly).

I can also get him revved up with tug - but it takes about 30s of tugging to get him eager and excited.

He's more interested in the environment (mostly sniffing, other dogs, other people) than I'd like him to be. He's not one of those BCs that can stare at their owners for hours on end just hoping for a 2s tug or a chase of a ball!

BTW - he's only 7mo - I think he's going through a stage :coffee:

I must make time to watch the Balabanov DVDs.

Have you ever thought of using the premark principle?! I think you said you read CU?!

How about playing a game of - guess what you tug with me and i'll release you to sniff.... over time the desire to sniff will diminish and the desire to be with you will increase (sorry, this is a terrible explanation, but what else can you do when your head is blocked!!! LOL!)

It's very hard with a gundog to try and over-ride their desire to sniff - that's instinct... so try to work with it and see :laugh:

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What does your dog like Luke?

Sniffing the ground :p

He likes food (chicken breast and steak mostly).

I can also get him revved up with tug - but it takes about 30s of tugging to get him eager and excited.

He's more interested in the environment (mostly sniffing, other dogs, other people) than I'd like him to be. He's not one of those BCs that can stare at their owners for hours on end just hoping for a 2s tug or a chase of a ball!

BTW - he's only 7mo - I think he's going through a stage :coffee:

I must make time to watch the Balabanov DVDs.

Have you ever thought of using the premark principle?! I think you said you read CU?!

How about playing a game of - guess what you tug with me and i'll release you to sniff.... over time the desire to sniff will diminish and the desire to be with you will increase (sorry, this is a terrible explanation, but what else can you do when your head is blocked!!! LOL!)

It's very hard with a gundog to try and over-ride their desire to sniff - that's instinct... so try to work with it and see :laugh:

I'm still reading CU - only up to night 2!

I've been trying a couple of things...

Transferring the value of chicken to tug...tug for a bit...then treat chicken.

Trying to build on his tug desire.

Building some chase (retreive) drive

I should work more on premack for sniffing. Problem is he gets to satisfy that all by his self whenever we go for a walk!

So much to learn and do, so little time.

I'm struggling to find the time and motivation at the moment..

On my list of DVDs to watch NOW...

Crate Games

Choose to Heel

Balabanov

plus to read:

Control Unleashed

Plus I've got Basic 1 tests at Croydon over the next 2 weeks so I'm practicing for those.

...being an inexperienced trainer and a perfectionist, I'm pretty sure my expectations are way out there but my dog is pretty good for his age and breed.

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Hey Luke are you going to Croydon dog club????

Me & Leopuppy go there too!

Yep!!

I've been going for 4 weeks. I'm in the last 2 of weeks of Basic 1 (I got thrown into week 7 of Basic 1after an asssessment).

I have an assessment over the next 2 weeks - hopefully I'll progress to Basic 2 (although I'm not too confident!).

Just keep an eye out for a blue roan cocker spaniel and a large guy with a green hat :laugh:

Edited by Luke W
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Thanks Dogdude, where can I find the Balabanov dvd?

I bought mine from

http://www.caninetrainingsystems.com/products.php

I couldnt find it on the website :laugh:

http://www.caninetrainingsystems.com/cgi-b...V-SCH-BAL-SET-1

I assume these are the DVDs referred to by DogDude:

Obedience without Conflict Video 1 and Video 2 Set

  • Obedience without Conflict Tape 1: Clear Communication
  • Obedience without Conflict Tape 2: The Game

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On my list of DVDs to watch NOW...

Crate Games

Choose to Heel

Balabanov

plus to read:

Control Unleashed

Plus I've got Basic 1 tests at Croydon over the next 2 weeks so I'm practicing for those.

...being an inexperienced trainer and a perfectionist, I'm pretty sure my expectations are way out there but my dog is pretty good for his age and breed.

Where do you get those dvd's from?

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