Gloves

[shoemonster]

Any tips on teaching gloves? Just looking for something to start on, thats a bit of fun

I have Molly retrieving dumbell and thought I would start but just simply get her to fetch a single glove

Didnt work that way, seems the glove is something to throw up in the air, and spit out

Any tips, or do I just go with the fetch hold give same as dumbell? Its gets soggy so quickly

And are there any reasons I shouldnt start gloves so early on? (She's got her ccd, and is untrialled in novice)

Edited October 1, 2008 by shoemonster

[Ptolomy]

We teach gloves by using food bowls - so basically you are teaching the direction bit first and we work on holding the gloves as a separate issue. If you don't use food then sorry can't help - if you do - let me know and I can try and explain how its done.

This is Scoota doing gloves at the Adelaide Royal.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6jzkou5kBU

[ness]

And here is one of Ness doing it at a trial:

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=LK0K4LTSllQ

<Only posted as everybody here in Adelaide believes you can't get full marks for gloves - well ner ner ner I have video to prove it >

Actually she scored 19 at the Royal for gloves to.

Edited September 12, 2008 by ness

[squeak]

We teach gloves by using food bowls - so basically you are teaching the direction bit first and we work on holding the gloves as a separate issue. If you don't use food then sorry can't help - if you do - let me know and I can try and explain how its done.

This is Scoota doing gloves at the Adelaide Royal.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6jzkou5kBU

I'm very interested in hearing how you teach this using food bowls... even if Shoemonster isn't

[shoemonster]

Yeah would love to see how you do it, I'm a food user (my dogs are piggy pigs, who would sell me for the smallest treat!)

Great work on the 2 vids too

[ness]

Here is an explanation written by Gina O'Keefe and posted to the files section of the Ozobedience yahoogroup.

Get three small bowls.

Place one out in front of the dog and put some food in it (just a couple of

pieces)

Have the dog neatly sitting very straight beside you - as he should be if

you'd turned nicely.

With elbow tucked IN ! place your hand neatly next to dogs side of face.

Your hand, body, shoulder, feet, head should all be pointing towards the

bowl.

Without moving your hand, say GET IT!! and send the dog to the bowl. You can

click the go out and let the dog get the food. Once he had eaten the food,

call come and have the dog race back to you for a reward. You can also play

the two food game here.

Build distance. You can place the bowl randomly out on the park, with

trees, broad jumps etc behind it.

Get the dog marking the bowl and sending very straight. (remember your own

body language) If you use a clicker, click the marking and then send the

dog to the food.

Put two bowls out. Separate them by more than you would have in the ring.

Only walk out and put food in one of the bowls but pretend to it in the

other bowl. The order is to be done randomly.

Start close, go through the same procedure.

Change which bowl you put the food into but make sure you line up as

described consistently. Have someone look at you to make sure you aren't

leaning into the dog and pushing them away from you.

If you're worried about the dog going to the wrong bowl and then going off

to the other bowl - 1. this is telling you that the foundation work of

looking straight and running straight is still not strong enough, so go

back!! (do not collect $200.00)

You can also have a friend (who can also put the food out for you if you're

lucky) there to take the bowl away with the food in it, if the dog goes to

the wrong bowl. BUT STILL go back to one bowl and get the foundation

behaviour.

Separately to all this you should be practicing your turns so that the dog

turns in one smooth movement and sits very straight next to you. That means

the dog needs to know how to use his backend but that's another whole

lesson!! <g>

Once you are confident with two bowls you can start to put out the third

bowl. Set them slightly broader of the centre than trial standard but

always be in the centre (in front of No 2 glove position).

Go through the same procedure.

Once the dog is marking and running straight you have a good foundation.

I'm assuming you have a retrieve on anything.

You can now go through the same procedure with a glove.

Drop the glove anywhere and pivot and mark the glove and send with "fetch".

Sometimes you might have to do a bit of a "chuck" just to get the dog into

the game.

I've also used the dogs ball. Hold your dog (if their wait is dodgy) Roll

the ball so that the dog watches it. Have your dog in the "marking"

position and do YOUR bit. Once the dog is marking the ball send him.

Click the retrieve and reward heavily!

Mark heaps of single gloves and send. Use the two food game to get the dog

returning quickly.

Once the dog can do one glove, then you can start putting out two gloves.

Always be in front of glove 2 position and work left or right of that glove.

ONE PET HATE OF MINE!!! is when handlers over turn on the gloves so

that they are pointing very left of glove one and very right of glove

three!!. What is the dog supposed to do for glove 2 if he has to deviate

off line to get the other two gloves and then is YELLED at for deviating

when told to get glove 2 !!!!!

Don't EVER call a dog off that is running out to a glove ! He thinks he's

right.

Go back and help him get it right. Set him up for success.

[squeak]

Thanks for posting that ness. Any chance you could briefly explain the two food game (I cannot access yahoo groups on this PC).

[ness]

Ooops hmm yeah I could (I didn't even read over what was suggested ). Its a bit like the 2 toys game where you throw a toy in one direction and then as the dog comes racing back to you you throw a toy in the other direction. Instead of using toys you use food, preferably large chunks of easily visible stuff such as cheese if your training on grass and it helps if you find nicely manicured ovals to prevent the dog having to sniff out the food .

[Ptolomy]

Thanks Ness for posting the info on the food bowls.

The two food game is something we play often and we use it to increase speed and to also have he dog reliably coming back to us.

Last night I was training with my mate and her 2 year old toller - raced out to get his dumbbell, picked it up and was tottling back with it. We wanted to speed him up - so we sent him out for the dumbbell and the moment he picked it up and turned we threw the food behind us and told him to "get it". Well...did he race past us to get the food. We didn't mind him dropping the dumbbell either as the aim of the game was to increase his speed. We did this game 3 times and the next time he came roaring back with his dumbell. Problem solvered! :D

[Ptolomy]

And shoemonster - don't just stop at teaching gloves - you should be teaching scent, signals, dumbbell and box now too :D

Sexy Lexi, who is 2, is in the process of learning all the UD exercises now - she has one novice pass, but at the moment is back in the cupboard waiting for her to grow up a bit......

Edited September 13, 2008 by Ptolomy

[shoemonster]

Excellent thank you!

Yep have got the dumbell going, well on the flat anyway, box is started, drop on recall going well, and its not slowing down the recall (woohoo!), signals started, just got to learn how to teach scent!

There is a site that they talked about on a group I'm on that sells articles, I will have to get some, any advice on the wooden article for a dog thjat likes to mouth? She seems to especially like the feel of squishing wood between her teeth, hence why we have a nylong dumbell!

The texture of things seems to be the biggest problem, like with the gloves, it must feel like a dead teddy bear, and therefore something to throw around, not hold onto!

Edited September 13, 2008 by shoemonster

[Ptolomy]

Shoemonster - this is how I taught my kids scent discrimination - its brilliant

http://www.dogscouts1.com/Dog_Activ-_Scent_Discrim.html

As for chewing the articles - I had a minor mouthing issue with Scoota which I cured by using the clicker - handing him the article and immediately clicking. I would take it and treat. I would then hand him the article again - if he chomped it I would take it and not reward. He is smart and it didn't take him long at all to catch onto the game.

[shoemonster]

Ahhh good idea, I reckon she would figure that out well, she's pretty quick to learn

And thanks for that site, thats fantastic, makes heaps of sencs, I really didnt know where to start

[shoemonster]

Ok, have her holding the glove now, 2 out of 3 times she will hold it nicely, and she's cottoned onto the click for holding it

One more question, is there a particular way they have to hold it? Or it is just as long as a piece of it is in her mouth? she tends to hang it out by one finger alot of the time

[Lablover]

Ok, have her holding the glove now, 2 out of 3 times she will hold it nicely, and she's cottoned onto the click for holding it

One more question, is there a particular way they have to hold it? Or it is just as long as a piece of it is in her mouth? she tends to hang it out by one finger alot of the time

Just a thought as I read this thread, have you started on 2 gloves,3 gloves?

Remember to have large separation (even a fence or for that matter in the house using walls) and gloves easily seen, short send outs at first.

I also wonder about a poster not advising calling the dog back for poor choices..........I think it depends on the dog and us, as the trainer. I tend to call back immediately-but it does depend on the dogs attitude.

[shoemonster]

Still on one glove, just want to get her solid holding a glove before I start complicating things!

[shoemonster]

We have some success!

[Ptolomy]

OH WOW how cute is that!

[shoemonster]

hehe thanks! She is a bit cute, she looks like a little puppy but she is 3 years old now!

[ness]

Just one tip you might want to use more substantial gloves. Reason I found I got much better holds when I went to thicker ones - none the least you get better retrieves as the dogs can see and mark them better.

But very cute photo Shoey.

Edited September 18, 2008 by ness