Treats & Queries

[inbox]

Hi everyone

I just wanted some suggestions on what treats I should feed my japanese spitz puppy for rewards. I've mainly been giving him liver treats and some other random ones like from All natural brand and kibble. I was wandering if there were other alternatives that are more healthy for my pup, low in fat and good for him.

I'm also unsure of what treats i should stay away from as I'm worried some ingredients will affect the coat of my pup and turn it yellow? I heard some pedigree products has something in it that makes the coat go unnatural.

Also when it comes to toilet training, what I've tried to do is lead him in an area in the backyard and close it off and let him out until he has done the deed. But the main problem is making him learn to go there by himself as I have to use treats to lure him or toys etc. Is this a good idea to enclose him off until he has done his deed? or should i let him do it wherever in the backyard?

With regards to collar training, at what age should I be trying to get him use to it? I've found that whenever i put him on a leash, he would go crazy and keep trying to bite it. I tried a bite-off product that is really bitter but it doesn't seem to work for the leash, I'm looking for a way for him to get use it and letting him drag it around himself before steering him myself. Any suggestions on stopping him from biting it and going crazy? Well generally any tips with collar training would be great.

[LoremIpsum]

First, my standard disclaimer. This site is full of experienced, erudite dog-handlers. I am not one of them. However, I have a puppy, and I can tell you what I am doing with her.

I just wanted some suggestions on what treats I should feed my japanese spitz puppy for rewards. I've mainly been giving him liver treats and some other random ones like from All natural brand and kibble. I was wandering if there were other alternatives that are more healthy for my pup, low in fat and good for him.

Are you asking because your pup (what's his name, by the way?) is picky? If you dog's enjoying the treats, I would stick with them. You can also try cut-up vegies (experiment to find out which ones he likes), small bits of cheese, bits of leftover cooked meat. People tell me small pieces of sausage and small pieces of roast chicken are both great high end rewards.

I googled "dog treat recipes" and found lots of hits. Here's one, for example. But I note a lot have wheat in them. I wouldn't feed too much wheat to my dog.

Make sure you count treats as part of her food. I put a fifth of Martha's daily ration into a bag and carry it with me all day. (Haven't worn my pocketless clothes for quite some time!) I'm treating her constantly for good behaviour. Extra good behaviour gets a liver treat, which means that only the liver treats are the real extras.

I'm also unsure of what treats i should stay away from as I'm worried some ingredients will affect the coat of my pup and turn it yellow? I heard some pedigree products has something in it that makes the coat go unnatural.

I've got no idea what this is but suspect it might be the corn in pedigree products? Anyone?

With regards to collar training, at what age should I be trying to get him use to it? I've found that whenever i put him on a leash, he would go crazy and keep trying to bite it. I tried a bite-off product that is really bitter but it doesn't seem to work for the leash, I'm looking for a way for him to get use it and letting him drag it around himself before steering him myself. Any suggestions on stopping him from biting it and going crazy? Well generally any tips with collar training would be great.

I'm in the middle of leash training right now so I can tell you how I'm doing it.

Firstly, I think leash training and collar training are different things. He should be used to the collar before you get to the leash.

I placed the collar on and off Martha a couple of times over a couple of days. Then it just went on and hasn't come off since. It took her about a week to get used to it and I felt guilty every time she scratched her neck, but she's happy with it now.

Once she got used to the collar I introduced the leash. Have you taught your JP to sit and stay? This was an integral part of leash training for me. She wants to play with it, and I don't exactly stop her, I just distract her with treats and keep her focussed on the task at hand. She will initially pull against the leash, so just follow her and let her take you wherever. She'll soon get the idea that leash means go forward.

I use a clicker, so while there are several ways of going about it I am using this way. We literally take it a couple of steps at a time.

Leash training doesn't happen overnight, so don't panic. Find a step by step way of teaching her that's going to work for you, and work at it patiently.

I left the toilet training stuff for others who'll know.

Good luck and let us know and show us a picture!

[Rascal]

We cut up a big vip puppy roll into small cubes and put them in the dehydrator. That way we know exactly what is in them and the lip smacking says they like them.. all their friends at the dogpark like them also! Nice and cost effective.

[TeamSnag]

As for treats my dogs go crazy over Dryed Lamb Lungs

[poochmad]

We put the collar on Henschke when we picked him up from the breeder. It went on when he was on my lap in the car and has not come off. He didn't seem to mind.

Regarding the lead, another way to do it is to attach the lead to the collar and just let your pup drag the lead around behind them. Most will either chew or run with it. Henschke did both of these. Once he was used to it, I then picked it up and then took a couple of steps calling me. He followed quite happily. Whenever he stopped more calling and now he's happy to trot alongside.

When he's sitting if he tries to chew he gets an UH-UH and I turn the lead so he can't chew it. I make sure the lead is taut (but not choking him) so he quickly stops chewing on it as it's boring.

Naturally we have only tried walking him around the backyard as he's not fully vaccinated. When the time comes for him to explore the world, the first couple of walks will be to allow him to get used to walking on the lead outside of the house and then I will start training him not to pull by stopping every time he lunges forward and only rewarding him (by walking) when he is either sitting or not pulling. The idea is that the pup will quickly learn that pulling means stopping and that trotting alongside (getting ready for the heel) means walking.

Edited August 8, 2008 by poochmad

[shoemonster]

We cut up a big vip puppy roll into small cubes and put them in the dehydrator. That way we know exactly what is in them and the lip smacking says they like them.. all their friends at the dogpark like them also! Nice and cost effective.

Ooh I'm in experiment mode with my dehydrator, I might have to try that one

Does it dry right through? I tried hotdogs and they dried kind of wierd, still abit moist, but maybe I just didnt persist for long enough (it was about 24 hours I think)

Sorry its a little OT

Edited August 8, 2008 by shoemonster

[Kavik]

I use cheese and cabanossi/cocktail frankfurts

[Rascal]

We cut up a big vip puppy roll into small cubes and put them in the dehydrator. That way we know exactly what is in them and the lip smacking says they like them.. all their friends at the dogpark like them also! Nice and cost effective.

Ooh I'm in experiment mode with my dehydrator, I might have to try that one

Does it dry right through? I tried hotdogs and they dried kind of wierd, still abit moist, but maybe I just didnt persist for long enough (it was about 24 hours I think)

Sorry its a little OT

They become dry and brittle, takes about a day and a half. with hotdogs, you are better off boiling them, slicing them and then dehydrating. Our little ones love dried apricots and plums also nice and chewy. Put one of those little oxygen absorbers from a pair of shoes in the bag, helps to contol mildew if not dry enough. Have tried frying sliced hotdogs before drying also - seems to work. Also sorry it's OT. will start a new thread.

Edited August 8, 2008 by Rascal

[inbox]

Hey everyone again

Thanks for all the input so far.

Anther question about the fetch command and drop command. The main problem is he doesn't behave when he sees theres no treat in my hand.

Whenever my pup comes back with the ball in his mouth and i ask to drop it, and if i dont have a treat in my hand, my pup would hang onto it, growl and a tug of war begins where sometimes he completely refuses to let go. Also sometimes he pretends to come close and looks to pretend to give it back then runs off again. And these usually happens when i dont have treats, how can I make him drop the ball on command without depending so much on treats? Cause i feel ive been depending too much on treats now.

Usually when im angry, I'd say growl no then take all the toys away and walk away and come back few minutes later. But this problem still happens.

Should i try cutting his garden space? So he can't run around away so much when he has a toy?

Also in regards to bones for dogs, my vet told me to stop feeding chicken necks because it can damage/choke his throat and told me to go onto using marrow bones from the butcher.

Although i'm worried he will be lacking calcium, any suggestions?

Lastly, the vet said I can start feeding him 2 times per day instead of 3, what time is recommended to do so? Right now its 10am, 2pm, 7pm, should it just be 10am and 7pm?

Thanks again

Edited August 11, 2008 by inbox

[Rascal]

Lastly, the vet said I can start feeding him 2 times per day instead of 3, what time is recommended to do so? Right now its 10am, 2pm, 7pm, should it just be 10am and 7pm?

Thanks again

Hi Inbox,

Might have missed it but how old is your Japanese Spitz? What are you feeding the little one for its main meals?

[inbox]

He is 12 weeks old now. Breakfast is Kibble, Lunch n Dinner is Kibble mixed with wet food and before chicken necks until the just recently stopping with the necks and having more kibble. I feed him with the advance/optimum

[Rascal]

At 12 weeks old he needs the calories from 3 feeds a day to fuel himself and assist with his bone developement. With my pugs, I step down from three feeds to 2 at six months then stay on two forever. If you take away one feed now you run the risk of him developing bone/joint/arthritis later in life as he will not be getting all he needs. If the timing is an issue, we feed at 6am, 3pm and 8pm - with plenty of running around inbetween. If you feel you need to give him extra meat try some human grade regular mince from your butcher with his afternoon feed (the one with the fat for energy). This will help his muscle developement and keep his iron levels up. For marrow bones try the "big bertha's" cut lengthways so he can get to the marrow. Our butcher cuts them for us.

Sorry for the length in this, but I hope it helps :rolleyes: