Suggestions On Distance Work

[TerraNik]

I've been having a bit of trouble with Jedi's "Bow" trick. He is fine if I am right up close, but I just can't seem to get him to do it away from me. I'll do the hand signal and he'll run up to me and then bow!!!!

This was him a few weeks ago -

Any suggestions???

[helen]

I would try tying him up and increase the distance very gradually

[prodigybxr]

You could use a target stick in your distance work, initially.

BTW-I would be rewarding in the 'bow' position- otherwise you are essentially rewarding him standing.

[prodigybxr]

I love all his little tricks, too- great job :rolleyes:

[TerraNik]

You could use a target stick in your distance work, initially.

BTW-I would be rewarding in the 'bow' position- otherwise you are essentially rewarding him standing.

I usually use the clicker with him but I didn't for the video, hence the bad timing with the treat! But you make a very good point!!! I'll remember that for next time we train without the clicker.

How would I integrate a target stick into it? (I haven't used one before)

[Leema]

You need to fade your hand lure. :rolleyes: Have you down any shaping/capturing with a clicker with Jedi?

[TerraNik]

You need to fade your hand lure. :rolleyes: Have you down any shaping/capturing with a clicker with Jedi?

Yeah I think that's the biggest issue. I haven't done any shaping for bow, as I was hoping I would be able to fade my hand signal out. He bows every morning when stretching, so there are opportunities. Do you think that would be worth a shot?

I tried just using the voice command too, but he's more of a visual dog.

Edited August 3, 2008 by TerraNik

[Leema]

Yes, I trained my dog Mac to bow by capturing his stretching... It was long winded but was the only way I could do it as he does not like to follow lures. Jedi should pick it up sooner if he already knows the behaviour.

With Clover, I taught her with a hand lure. I used a very different hand signal to do this (gun like shape while I use open hands and fists otherwise). I think by having such a different hand signal she was able to pick this up sooner - that is, it became a hand signal instead of a lure. :rolleyes:

[Kavik]

I also taught this by luring (was hard, Zoe kept trying to drop! I had to have my foot under her tummy so she didn't drop). I faded the lure and could do it on voice only before I did any distance. I think your hand signal/lure is the problem, that is where Jedi thinks he will be rewarded, so he is going there.

[whatevah]

Reward down near the ground as he does the bow, also maybe put a couple of pieces there, then he is less likely to look up at you. I also add another signal at the same time, being a curtsy, then that can be your signal instead of the hand. It is looking very good though, at least he is not dropping.

Also check out this thread.

http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=11768

Also try slowly moving away from the dog, and throwing the treat to him onces he recognises the new curtsy signal.

Edited August 6, 2008 by whatevah

[Clicking Mad]

Have you done any "go to a target" training at all? Have you got any command at a distance, like a sit or down?

Think there is a thread on it here somewhere on target training - here it is - paw target. The idea is to get your dog to go to a target - I used an ice-cream container lid initially. Once you have that down pat, you can ask for something while they are at the target, like a sit, or another well established behaviour.

I had some difficulty getting Texas to do his "bow" not directly infront and at me - I was also trying to get it so we were both bowing in the same direction, him by my side.

The go to a target is an excellent distance training resource for tricks, but at the same time - like a separate trick - if you can ask for a "wait" or "stay" while in position, or slowly slowly hold out on the click for a few mili-seconds (up to seconds) longer to draw out the length of time in the "bow" then you will be able to take a step back, click and reward - with this you are establishing the distance without your dog having to stay before the bow but rather while he/she is in the bow. I did this with Texas while I gradually moved around next to him ... I was eventually able to ask for the bow while he was in the heel position next to me ... mistakenly, I initially taught Texas the bow with a huge physical cue (ie. a belly rub) and it took a while to remove that.

just some ideas

[TerraNik]

Have you done any "go to a target" training at all? Have you got any command at a distance, like a sit or down?

Think there is a thread on it here somewhere on target training - here it is - paw target. The idea is to get your dog to go to a target - I used an ice-cream container lid initially. Once you have that down pat, you can ask for something while they are at the target, like a sit, or another well established behaviour.

I had some difficulty getting Texas to do his "bow" not directly infront and at me - I was also trying to get it so we were both bowing in the same direction, him by my side.

The go to a target is an excellent distance training resource for tricks, but at the same time - like a separate trick - if you can ask for a "wait" or "stay" while in position, or slowly slowly hold out on the click for a few mili-seconds (up to seconds) longer to draw out the length of time in the "bow" then you will be able to take a step back, click and reward - with this you are establishing the distance without your dog having to stay before the bow but rather while he/she is in the bow. I did this with Texas while I gradually moved around next to him ... I was eventually able to ask for the bow while he was in the heel position next to me ... mistakenly, I initially taught Texas the bow with a huge physical cue (ie. a belly rub) and it took a while to remove that.

just some ideas

Thanks for the ideas! Jedi has done target training and is able to do multiple commands at a distance (sit, down, stand, stay, dance, wave, shy, roll over... the list goes on) but it's just this one trick!!!!! I will try and incorporate his target training into it and see if that does it. I like the idea of getting him in a bow and then gradually moving myself backwards... We'll see if that helps.

I haven't actually tried to work on this since I posted as I have been focusing on some of his obedience work but I think I'll start working on this again this week. Fingers crossed!!

[Clicking Mad]

Oops sorry ... wasn't sure where you were up to training wise ...

I reckon a break is a good idea occassionally - especially when you've hit a brick wall.

but beware

I've been on an extended break from this kind of training ... I seem to have no time ... most of my tips are from long ago now ... keep meaning to get started again, improve on what we've got and increase the variety of tricks, but it never gets past the "that's a good idea" stage or sometimes as far as actually writing up a plan and one session, then I lose it

Anyway, good luck! I'm sure you're nothing like me

note to self: must keep up to date must keep up to date must keep up to date must keep up to date must keep up to date