Fence Pacing - Can This Behaviour Be Altered?

[Stitch]

A friend of mine has just got a dog from the pound. When he is not with the dog, like when he goes out or if he has to put it out into the back yard etc. it paces back and forth along the fence line, it just keeps going.

The dog was very skinny and he is trying to fatten it up but it never rests except when it is given one on one attention.

He hasn't had it very long, under a week - has anyone had the same problem and do you think it will settle down?

Is there anything he can do to help it?

Would obedience training help to create a bond or understanding that would help to calm it down?

[poodlefan]

A friend of mine has just got a dog from the pound. When he is not with the dog, like when he goes out or if he has to put it out into the back yard etc. it paces back and forth along the fence line, it just keeps going.

The dog was very skinny and he is trying to fatten it up but it never rests except when it is given one on one attention.

He hasn't had it very long, under a week - has anyone had the same problem and do you think it will settle down?

Is there anything he can do to help it?

Would obedience training help to create a bond or understanding that would help to calm it down?

I think he might be dealing with an obsessive behaviour. It may need professional help.

Is the dog allowed inside? Crate training might at least help to stop the dog accessing the fence.

[The Spotted Devil]

If the dog is exhibiting a true stereotypical behaviour (rather than a redirected behaviour which tends to be more short term although the distinction is blurry), it can be very difficult to treat. The physiology behind these sorts of behaviours is not well understood, but it appears to be a coping mechanism for stressful situations. I like PF's idea of putting the dog in an environment where he can't perform the behaviour.

I have been dealing with stereotypical washing in one of my cats that came from a breeder - Lilly was a breeding queen who was chronically stressed after having a caesarean, loosing kittens and subsequently being spayed. When she came to me she was as skinny as a rake, very shy and her stomach/abdomen and inside hind legs were completely licked raw :D My approach was to work on getting her to feel more comfortable and secure in her environment - got her eating well and really comfortable with us and my other cat (who is actually her daughter ). Although I couldn't supervise her all the time, I worked on finding things to distract her from her compulsive washing such as calling her when she was washing her tummy and praising her for stopping or distracting her with a toy or some petting. She has been with us for 2 years and has really come out of her shell - she eats with relish, washes Bronte within an inch of her life, plays when she isn't sleeping and gets up to LOTS of mischief....which I think is an excellent sign :rolleyes: What I can't believe is that she is STILL improving! Every now and again I think I know the "true Lilly" but she continues to surprise us - getting snugglier and more content than we ever thought possible. As for her tummy, she still washes it but not nearly as much as she used to and it has a fluffy, down-like covering now. So, the problem is that she is far from being stressed but the washing has become so ingrained in her behaviour it's very difficult to break.

Sorry for the long story, but my point is that there may not be a quick fix although persistence and patience will get your friend a long way

Edited May 20, 2008 by The Spotted Devil

[Stitch]

Thank you for your replies.

I told him it might just be that the dog is so stressed with its new environment and that with time it will settle down but in the meantime he should start teaching it things, go to obedience training which has always been really good for my dogs.

I think that it is just the non-stop nature of this dogs pacing that is getting to him and that he is worried that he won't be able to put condition on it.

He wants to do the right thing and not do anything to make it worse.

Another thing is that he just doesn't know what its background has been so it makes it twice as hard to deal with.

[sas]

Do you know how long the dog was kenneled for? Making a huge leap into the assumption area here but kennel madness for some reason jumped to the top of my thoughts for some reason.

Sounds like an unbalanced pooch to me that's not very happy right now. Can your friend afford a qualified Behaviourist to come out and assess the dog? Someone from here that lives in QLD would most likely be able to reccomend one.

Could it possibly be a form of seperation aniexty? Hopefully Erny or Steve will pop in to advise further?

Edited May 20, 2008 by sas

[The Spotted Devil]

The dog could be stressed in the new environment OR it could be a learned behaviour from his past.

As long as the dog can cope in a club environment, obedience training would be a good start. In your friend's situation, I would use lots of positive reinforcement and be sure I was very, very consistent so the dog knows exactly what behaviours will gain him a reward. Like any dog, what motivates the dog will be important - is it food? pats? good dog? tug game? fetch? Or all of them :rolleyes: However, don't make the mistake of feeling sorry for the dog because of his uncertain background - he needs structure and consistency in his life, not someone who will let him get away with inappropriate behaviour. If the dog can't cope with a club environment, definitely get in some professional help. Maybe do a search on "Satin Balls" etc for some ideas to put weight on.

Tell your friend to be patient and enjoy the journey rather than be in a rush to fix everything all at once :D

Edited May 20, 2008 by The Spotted Devil

[Erny]

It is too difficult to assess without seeing the dog. The stress levels I am imagining from what I read could be either under or over estimated.

Given the dog is in a new environment though, I would probably have organised to stay with the dog for the first week (easier said than done, I know), to give it time to have the freedom of exploring his new environment and knowing that I'm still there when he comes looking for me. Set up an exercise (mental & physical)/rest/eat/sleep pattern. In the meanwhile, the dog is familiarising itself with the home environment and getting used to trusting that it is not being abandoned when I leave or put it out for short whiles. Desensitising it to denied access (incrementally) and to being left alone would begin towards the end of the first week.

The amount of affectionate attention would be zero to minimal in the first few days, then minimal.

I am not keen on advising that the dog be crated or otherwise prevented from pacing in times when it is stressed. If stress is the cause, the dog's behaviour has become its coping mechanism. To stop the behaviour without providing it another alternative (and more appetitive) behaviour may only serve to increase its anxiety because the initial anxiety cannot be relieved. This can in turn lead the dog to physically harming itself in the process of trying to find a way to relieve the stress. I prefer distraction rather than prevention in these cases.

Lots of exercise - emphasis on 'mental' exercise would be recommended - not only particularly considering its weight issue, but also to 'balance' the dog's mind. This would include training.

Leadership is an absolute must for the dog.

I wouldn't be lavishing the dog with treats/rewards, not unless the dog 'worked' for them first. IE The "NILIF" program (Nothing In Life Is Free) - where the dog must DO something to receive something good.

I don't know what you can work in for this dog nor whether its behaviour is as excessive as what I am imagining. Perhaps, if it is not as bad as I am perceiving, it will begin to settle down once it becomes familiar and learns to trust and rely in your leadership and begin to understand your 'life patterns'. Regardless, a well planned (eg. morning and night, if not also in the middle of the day) training regime (drive training IMO would be excellent) can only help.

If it is particularly excessive, sometimes we need to consult with a physician for medical assistance to combine with behaviour modification exercises. A DAP collar might be of assistance, but IME is unlikely to work on its own to solve the problem - but it might help to take the 'edge' off. But perhaps this could be a first port of call prior to medication. The medication is only to help with the behaviour modification program and to try to lower the dog's stress levels for both its physical and mental welfare while the behaviour modification exercises have time to make a difference.

Don't know if any of this helps. It is hard when you can't see the dog to determine stress levels.

Edited May 20, 2008 by Erny

[Erny]

There is one thing you could also try - it might make a bit of a difference, at least to the 'momentum' of the pacing.

Attach some pieces of marine ply so that they stand out a good metre or two, at a 90 degree angle from the fence. This sometimes helps as the dog cannot track along the fence itself without having to negotiate the obstacles in its path.

But if anxiety remains a cause, the dog will probably find a new 'path' to track. But combined with behaviour modification program, it might help to weaken the 'learnt' aspect of the "fence pacing" behaviour.

Edited May 20, 2008 by Erny

[Stitch]

Thank you so much for all your responses.

I have printed them out and will pass them on today.

[leopuppy04]

If the dog is exhibiting a true stereotypical behaviour (rather than a redirected behaviour which tends to be more short term although the distinction is blurry), it can be very difficult to treat. The physiology behind these sorts of behaviours is not well understood, but it appears to be a coping mechanism for stressful situations. I like PF's idea of putting the dog in an environment where he can't perform the behaviour.

Sorry to pick on you TSD - but Gawd - this sounds like a certain lecturer from uni :)

[The Spotted Devil]

If the dog is exhibiting a true stereotypical behaviour (rather than a redirected behaviour which tends to be more short term although the distinction is blurry), it can be very difficult to treat. The physiology behind these sorts of behaviours is not well understood, but it appears to be a coping mechanism for stressful situations. I like PF's idea of putting the dog in an environment where he can't perform the behaviour.

Sorry to pick on you TSD - but Gawd - this sounds like a certain lecturer from uni :D :D :p

;)

[4 Paws]

i've just purchased a flower remedy formula from here http://www.floweressences.com.au/dog.htm for my girl who gets stressed around other dogs

May be worth looking at as well as the other suggetions

Edited May 21, 2008 by 4 Paws